University of North Carolina at Asheville
D. H. Ramsey Library
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The Land of the Sky and Beyond
(1895 ?)


The Land of the Sky and Beyond [Cover]
D. H. Ramsey Library, Special Collections, UNC at Asheville 28804
Title The Land of the Sky and Beyond (1895 ?)
Identifier http://toto.lib.unca.edu/findingaids/books/booklets/land_of_sky_and_Beyond.htm
Creator Frank Spencer Presbrey
Subject Keyword Asheville, NC ;"Land of the Sky and Beyond" ; Battery Park Hotel ; Holman T. Waldron ; hotels ; travel and tourism ; Asheville, NC ;  Asheville, NC ; Saluda Gateway ; Blue Ridge Mountains ; Hickory Nut Gap ; Round Knob ; Swannanoa River ; French Broad River ; Hot Springs ; Linville Gorge; Mount Mitchell Clingman's Dome ; Whiteside Mountain ; Nantahala River; Catawba Falls ; Tuckaseegee Falls ; Spring Creek Falls ; Stroup's Trestle ; Alley's ; Chimney Rock ; Mitchell's Pool ; Lover's Leap ; Painted Rock ; Royal Gorge ; Albemarle Park ; The Manor ; Biltmore House ; Battery Park Hotel ; Kenilworth Inn ;  Patton Avenue  ; Mountain Park Hotel (Hot Springs); Waynesville ; laurel ; rhododendron ;
Subject LCSH Presbrey, Frank, 1855-1936
Photography (Asheville, N.C.)
Battery Park Hotel (Asheville, N.C.)
Asheville (N.C.) -- History -- Pictorial works
Asheville (N.C.) -- Architecture
North Carolina -- Social life and customs -- Pictorial works
Asheville (N.C.) -- Description and travel
Asheville (N.C. -- Travel and tourism
Date 2008-02-25
Publisher

Peerless Service, Washington, DC ; [Washington, D.C.?] : Southern Railway Co., [1895?]

Contributor

Southern Railway Department

Type Booklet: illustration, photographs, text
Format [digital] image/jpeg/text ;  [36] p. : ill. ; 24 cm
Source Special Collections
Language English
Relation Frank Presbrey, The Southland: An Exposition Of The Present Resources And Development Of The South, Washington, D. C. Southern Railway Co., 1898, UNCA Special Collections, HC107.A13 P74 1898  ; E.M. Ball Photographic Collection, UNCA ; Documenting the American South, Chapel Hill: Asheville -- the Ideal Autumn and Winter Resort City: Electronic Edition. Washington: Southern Railway (U.S.) Passenger Traffic Dept., 1900?. Documenting the American South, UNC Chapel Hill: Autumn and Winter in the Land of the Sky: Electronic Edition. Washington: Southern Railway (U.S.) Passenger Traffic Dept., 1915? ; Western North Carolina Railroad Scenery "Land of the Sky" (1880's), UNCA Special Collections ; The Sunny South: drawings by E.H. Suydam (1924) ; Southern Summer Resorts and Camps in the Mountains - Southern Railway System (1922) New York: Rand McNally & Co. Special Collections F262.A16 S68 1922 A Motor Trip Veritably to Nature's Heart in "The Land of the Sky" (1920's?)  A Motor Trip Veritably to Nature's Heart in "The Land of the Sky" UNCA Special Collections  ; Land of the Sky (1913) : Southern Railway, Premier Carrier of the South  (1913?), UNCA Special Collections ;  The Land of the Sky (1920's) ;  Special Collections F261 .G7x  ;   Community Life in Western North Carolina (early 1900's) Special Collections  F264.A8 P92 1895.
Coverage 1895 [?]
Rights Any display, publication or public use must credit D. H. Ramsey Library, Special Collections, University of North Carolina at Asheville.
Copyright retained by the authors of certain items in the collection, or their descendants, as stipulated by United States copyright law.
Donor n/a
Description A booklet produced by the Passenger Department of Southern Railway as tourism promotional material.
Acquisition Purchase,  2008
Citation  The Land of the Sky and BeyondD. H. Ramsey Library, Special Collections, University of North Carolina at Asheville 28804
Processed by Special Collections staff,  2008
Last update 2008-03

        FULL TEXT

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Front and Inside Front Cover  

The Land of the Sky and Beyond

By Frank Presbrey

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1   Space there is for all to travel, therefore is the world so wide." The man or woman who loves Nature for Nature's sake, loves the mountains best. It is their rugged crests which show forth the temper of the day. They smile in sunshine and frown in storm, and in the great creases of their rugged faces lie the deep shadows of the night while yet the noonday sun is high. There is nothing else in Nature which so inspires one to purer thoughts or so truly marks the insignificance of man, as the mountains. The baubles and necessities of life men may buy with money. To the rich may be given the power to surround themselves with luxuries- the handiwork of man -- and art, the product of painters' skill; but Nature has spread her canvas with a gorgeous scheme of coloring, with a depth and grandeur of background of which the finest paintings ever produced are but the feeblest imitations, the veriest mockeries. The handiwork of man may be shut within walls and viewed by but the favored few, but Nature's beauties are unveiled to all, the rich and the poor alike, and it is not the touch of gold, but the responsiveness of an artistic soul, which is the open sesame to their enjoyment. Yet Nature, prodigal though she may be, has bestowed her brightest jewels with far from lavish hands. It is but here and there that she has moulded her choicest gems and left them unveiled for man's enjoyment. But in no part of the world has she brought into happier combination a greater variety of lovely scenery than in that portion of Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee where the Blue Ridge Mountains have been, by perhaps some mighty subterranean upheaval, shattered into a half-score of lateral and cross ranges. To be sure the White Mountains have their Washington, the Adirondacks their Marcy, but one may stand in Asheville and on any fair day count more than a score of mountain peaks higher than these. los_001_mod.jpg (623458 bytes)
2   Prof. J.A. Holmes, the eminent geologist, is authority for the statement that there are in Western North Carolina forty-three distinct mountains, 6,000 feet and upward in altitude, or higher than Mount Washington; and over eighty which exceed 5,000 and nearly approximate 6,000, while the peaks exceeding 4,000 feet are innumerable. They are beautiful mountains, too; shapely, and with lines as graceful as those of a model, they raise their proud heads far above the fertile valleys which lie at their feet. Clothed to their very summits with a most magnificent deciduous forest which Professor Fernow declares the finest on the continent, they form a picture of natural beauty and grandeur, the equal of which would be difficult to find in any land. There are here and there, however, stupendous precipices, as for instance on old Whiteside and Caesar's Head, the former presenting a solid, almost perpendicular wall of rock 1,800 in height. But these instances are rare, the general contour being one of grace and beauty. The noble chain, which, taking its beginning in the Highlands of Canada, traces its rugged course down across New Hampshire and Vermont, Eastern New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia, is known according to the locality as the Green, White, Adirondack, Alleghany or Blue Ridge Mountains; but it grows in majesty as it stretches southward, attaining in Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee by far its greatest altitude and massiveness. Here, too, it has spread into a myriad of lateral ranges like the bursting of a rocket, sending its offshoots into South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, where they merge into the lowlands are are lost to view.
     It is in the very heart of these mountainous regions, at an average altitude of nearly twenty-five hundred feet above the sea, that Nature has reserved her most  harming sanatorium, her "Garden of the Gods," the Asheville plateau. This is "The Land of the Sky," the spot where human health and human happiness are in sweet accord, where the blue azure touches lightly the towering summits of lofty mountains, where the purest of crystal water gushes forth from the hidden springs of an untainted soil, where malaria is unknown and contagion unfeared. Here, too, Nature has arrayed herself in her choicest and most beautiful vestments, and by her smiles and softest touches inspires hope in the invalid and ambition in the strong. Here, as nowhere else, are to be found in greatest perfection, ideal climatic conditions, for neither in summer nor winter are there extremes in temperature, the seasons being marked by the calendar rather than by the weather. The temperature maps prepared by the National Government show that there is formed by the peculiar topographical conditions existing on the Asheville plateau, the ideal thermal belt of America.
     In the "Good old days" of our forefathers the trip to the Asheville plateau was made after the fashion of the time in lumbering old state coaches- a wearisome trip which only the hardy could undertake. Now, whether from North, West, or South, the approach is one not only of convenience but of positive luxury.
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3   The Southern Railway, that superb and colossal corporation whose tracks grid-iron the region south of Washington, has brought Asheville and its contiguous region to within a short distance of New York, for indeed the traveler may leave the metropolis after the day is nearly done and be transported by their magnificent "Southwest Limited" to Asheville about noon the next day.
And what a ride!--down past the Nation's capital, across the Old Dominion, Virginia, whose almost every inch has been consecrated to history by the blood of contending armies, and entering North Carolina "where armies ' ceaseless tread" wore broad paths in the fertile soil a generation ago. At Salisbury the Asheville train leaves the main stem, which continues on to Atlanta, and, like the "Course of Empire," wends its way to the westward. At Old fort a brief stop is made to attach the second or pilot engine, before giving battle to the giant mountains which, stretching directly across the path, challenge the mighty power of steam. It is a battle royal when the ponderous locomotives begin the ascent, the second in point of grade in all America, a struggle in which the strength of Nature is pitted against the inventions of man. With throttles wide open and the steam-gauges showing their maximum the ascent begins. Up and up creeps the train, slowly and surely
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4   -winding in and out, like the tracings of a huge serpent, passing the colossal piles of granite between which the sparkling Catawba River dashes merrily on its race from mountain to sea, then around the face of a gigantic wall of rock, over chasms so deep as to make one dizzy, and again clinging to the very edge of the mountain-side. Below one-far below--is the peaceful valley, walled in on the opposite side by the mountains, whose slopes are clothed to the very dome with balsams and giant pines, interspersed with huge masses of rhododendron and azaleas near the valley's line. Beyond Round Knob, where a brief stop is made, the ascent becomes bolder and more tortuous. Around and around the great train creeps, doubting on itself several times, as if looking for some crevice through which it might dodge and evade the summit. So tortuous has been its movements that from one point the track below over which the train has come may be seen on fourteen different grades. The sun beams into the windows on one side of the car, and almost before the train has measured its length, it is shining in those opposite, and if Brother Jasper should make the trip he would ever after maintain that "De sun do move, suh."
"I have traveled two continents," said a companion of the writer on his recent trip, "and have never seen from car window a more magnificent spectacle." As the summit is reached, the eye takes in range after range of mountains, following one after the other like the giant waves of old ocean racing for the beach. Silvery waterfalls come tumbling down the mountain-sides so close as to almost dampen the train with their spray, and whichever way the eye may turn a new and entrancing scene of mingled grandeur and loveliness greets it.
At last the great tunnel which pierces the summit is reached, and the descent begins. The watershed of the Atlantic is left and that of the Gulf of Mexico entered. The panorama has been shifted. The ruggedness fades and yields its sway to the pastoral, where one hears the
"Humming of bees in
the heather bells
And bleatings in the
distant dells."
Just where the beautiful Swannanoa, "Nymph of Beauty," one of the loveliest of mountain streams, whose course the train follows, merges into the picturesque and historic French Broad, is Asheville. There is but one railway reaching Asheville, whether one comes from the West via Knoxville, the North via  Washington, the Southwest via Atlanta, or Florida and the Southwest via Columbia, and that is by the Southern Railway.
In the recognition of the old Richmond Terminal system of railroad lines into the new Southern Railway Company, a difficult
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5   and important task was accomplished with remarkable celerity and efficiency. The steady development of this extensive and complicated scheme proceeded almost unchecked through the entire period of financial depression, and to-day the South possesses a great railway system of 4,791 miles of lines, nearly all of which is absolutely owned by one corporation, of which Mr. Samuel Spencer is president . No other railroad in the country, operated under a single charter, has so great a mileage.
About thirty different roads have been merged into the Southern Railway Company, the principal ones being the Richmond and Danville and the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia systems. As a map will show, the lines of this great system extend from Washington, through Danville, Charlotte, Atlanta, and Birmingham, to Greenville, on the Mississippi River, with converging lines from Richmond to Danville; from Goldsboro, through Raleigh to Greensboro; and diverging from Salisbury through Asheville, Hot Springs, and Knoxville to Chattanooga: also from Charlotte to Columbia, Augusta and Aiken, uniting at Columbia with the Florida Central and Peninsular Railroad, forming a through line to Savannah, Jacksonville and all Florida, with a transverse line starting at Bristol, Tenn.; and extending through Knoxville, Chattanooga, Atlanta and Macon, Ga. to Brunswick, Ga., uniting again at Everett, Ga., with the Florida Central and Peninsular Railroad. There is also a diverging line from Rome, Ga., through Anniston, Ala., and Selma to Meridian, Miss., and with various to her lateral lines. The "Washington and Southwestern Vestibuled Limited," a superb train of Pullman drawing-room sleeping and dining cars, runs daily between New York and New Orleans via the Southern Railway (Piedmont Air Line) in conjunction with the Pennsylvania Railroad on the North, and the "L & N" on the South. It also carries through Pullmans between New York, Asheville and Hot Springs, The "Cincinnati and Florida Vestibule Limited," a beautiful train, runs daily between Cincinnati and Jacksonville, in conjunction with the "Q & C" route and Florida Central and Peninsular RR. Through car service is also maintained between Jacksonville, Fla., and Kansas City,
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6   Mo., via  Atlanta and Birmingham; also between Jacksonville and St. Louis, via same route. There is a perfectly appointed through car service between New York, Asheville and Hot Springs, and between Louisville, Cincinnati and Asheville, and between Asheville, Savannah and Jacksonville.
It is by this line that the "new York and Florida Short Line Limited," a veritable clubhouse on wheels, runs daily, leaving New York at 3:20 P.M., and reaching Jacksonville and St. Augustine early the following evening.
In laying out the Southern Railway system the aim has been to cover as much of the South, east of the Mississippi River, as possible. The lines penetrate into the richest mineral regions, agricultural regions, and timber territory. The Kentucky and Tennessee coal-fields and the Alabama coal-fields are reached by numerous branch lines. All of the great iron-mining and manufacturing localities are embraced in the Southern's railway lines. There is scarcely a prominent cotton-growing locality of importance that is not reached, and cotton mills are thickly sprinkled along all the principal arms of the system. The best portions of the tobacco-growing and the timber regions are tapped by these lines, and the branches of road which traverse the Southeastern States command a large share of fruit and garden truck business.
The isothermal line which passes through Asheville, the commercial and tourist center of the "Land of the Sky," as continued is drawn just south of San Francisco, California, north of Salt Lake City, Utah, south of St. Louis, through Lisbon and Madrid, Marsilles, Rome, Naples, and south of Constantinople. It should not be inferred that there are no variations in climate on the Asheville plateau, for indeed there are, and the best of hygienic results are attained in a country where there are changes, if, like those here, they are free from the health-destroying extremes of both North and South. But the climate of  Asheville, measured by the year rather than the day, isc harming. The mean temperature for a period covering a score of years has been 59 degrees, just one-half degree from that of the entire Western hemisphere. The air, however, is dry, and even on the coldest days there is an entire absence of that quality which in the North is called "piercing," and which penetrates to the very bone marrow. Snow, while not an unknown feature of Asheville winter life, falls only occasionally and lasts but a few days at longest. The brightest of sunshine predominates all through the winter, making out-door exercise, riding or driving and tennis or golf playing a pleasure. The diurnal ranges of the thermometer are also far less than at many of the famed health-resorts. The average winter temperature of Asheville is several degrees higher than that of Geneva, Switzerland, and Turin, Italy, and fourteen degrees warmer than Davos in the Swiss  Alps, where thousands of patients are sent each year for pulmonary troubles by the Continental physicians. The oldest medical practitioner in Western North  Carolina told the writer recently that during an extensive practice in this country, covering nearly forty years, he had never found
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7   a single case of local pulmonary consumption. He also called attention to the figures published in the disease charts of the United States Census, which showed that while deaths from pulmonary troubles in northern New England averaged two hundred and fifty out of every thousand, in Minnesota and California one hundred and fifty, in Kentucky and Western Tennessee over one hundred, the average number in Western North Carolina was but thirty. This percentage, too, was largely made up from the deaths among those who had come there with well-developed cases of consumption--too late to be benefited by the climatic cure, which would surely have saved them had they com eat the time the initial signs of the disease showed themselves.
The visitor to this region notices at once the electrical bracing air. "Why, I feel as if I was breathing champagne," exclaimed a prominent statesman to the writer during a recent visit. "And does it never rain here?" he asked. "Oh, yes," was the reply, volunteered by a third member of the group; "but our well-kept statistics show that we have an
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8   average of nearly three hundred days a year when the sun shines all day, and there were only eleven last year without any sunshine. There is, too, so little humidity even in the winter months, that it is no unusual thing for ladies to ramble through the woods with little risk to health as they would have in June. Another fact," Our mentor continued, "which makes every one 'brace up' the moment they get to Asheville is not generally understood. It is the influence of altitude on vitality. Now physiologists tell us that the heart pressure form within is twelve and a half pounds to the square inch at any altitude is increased. This is what produces 'that tired feeling' in lower altitudes, a thing unknown on the Asheville plateau, which, with its altitude of twenty-three hundred feet, has an atmospheric pressure of just twelve and three-quarter pounds, thus allowing the heart and lungs to perform their functions with the least expense of force and vitality, and under conditions which are absolutely normal."
Asheville is a charming little city nestling in the very bosom of the everlasting hills. It has an active, prosperous population of about twelve thousand, handsome hotels, substantial banks, business blocks and churches, and many beautiful and modern private residences, in which will be found all the cultured refinement of the greater social centres. It has a most progressive daily, The Citizen, which, under the editorship of Mr. Frank Robinson, is ever alive to Asheville's interests. Its school system ranks among the first in the South, and the school buildings are modern structure of brick, with all educational conveniences and improved sanitary appliances. Its streets are well paved- largely in asphalt- lighted with electricity, and it has an excellent system of electric street-railroads. Altogether it is a modern, bustling, young city, in which the material and social conditions are far in advance of the average city of its size, whether North or South.
Asheville has been termed the Saratoga of the South, but this is hardly just, for there is not a single point in which comparison of natural advantages can be made which would not be in Asheville's favor. Climate, scenery, health, and atmospheric conditions are incomparably better at Asheville. It is true that in certain respects there is a similarity, for during the summer months the great hospitable hotels of Asheville and its numerous boarding-houses are filled to overflowing with guests from all over the Union, who find the climate delightful, the social activities on a par with the best summer resorts in the country, and opportunities for riding or driving miles over perfect mountain roads and among scenes of magnificence and grandeur. No sooner have the summer visitors departed, than the advance guard of guests from the North puts in its appearance- a forerunner of the thousands who for pleasure, or health, or both, make their home in Asheville for a greater or shorter period
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9   during the winter months. The varied attractions of Asheville and the beautiful plateau which bears its name have brought to it as residents many men of wealth and culture, who have erected beautiful homes and are living delightfully surrounded by many of the customs and pleasures of the old English manor houses. In no section of America is there today such superb opportunities for sport as may be had in Western North Carolina. It is the great centre for quail shooting, and each year the Field Trials of the Eastern Association are held here. A bag of one hundred quail is a fair average for a day's sport for two gentlemen. So famous has this region become among sportsmen that the Southern Railway has inaugurated a special service of hunting cars which may be chartered by private parties by the day or week. The streams, especially on the Murphy and Spartanburg branches, are full of trout, and in the forests the deer, wild turkey and bear hunting so far eclipses anything east of the Rockies that a comparison would be absurd. It is a paradise where sportsmen may spend a day, a month, or a season, and be certain of the best of sport among most delightful scenes and in a region where every breath is one of health and joy. Among those gentlemen who have already erected or are now erecting homes for themselves near Asheville is Mr. George W. Vanderbilt, who, after having travelled the world over, decided upon this region as being the most beautiful of all he had ever seen. Here he began, several years ago, the purchasing of an estate and the erection of a noble mansion which when completed will far eclipse in point of expense, size, and elegance any private establishment in America. It stands on a noble eminence overlooking the picturesque and lovely valley of the French Broad, whose tortuous course may be followed for miles by its silvery tracings between the emerald of its banks. On ever side rise hill upon hill and mountain upon mountain, with many a Heaven-aspiring peak, chief among them being Pisgah, with its sharp, symmetrical cone; and beyond, in long extended vistas, the lofty summits of the Balsam Mountains, more than six thousand feet in height. Down to the right, toward the north, the eye follows the valley, backed by its never absent mountains, until far away they blend in misty distance with the Great Smokies. Then sweeping to the northeast, the valley of the Swannanoa spreads itself in all its placid beauty at the foot of its ever present guardian mountains, which recede in lofty majesty until they erect themselves in all the grandeur of the unrivalled Black Mountain chain. To the los_009_mod.jpg (621029 bytes)
10   right the valley is flanked with the high and graceful Swannanoa Mountain, and in the far distance the Swannanoa Gap, through which the railroad has invaded Western North Carolina. Toward the south, where all is gentle, peaceful, and in charming color, the mountains withdraw to a distance leaving an open country dotted with farms, until far away the hazy curtain made by the indistinct forms of the Blue Ridge along the South Carolina border is drawn upon the scene.
It is given to but few men to have unbounded wealth, but it is not strange that Mr. Vanderbilt, with his opportunities, when he gazed upon this scene of transcendent loveliness, should have said: "Here will I erect a mansion which shall emphasize the work of man as this spot has the work of God." To describe what Mr. Vanderbilt has done toward accomplishing that end would take many page. The figures would dazzle the reader and the veracity of the writer would be challenged. But a few of the most salient facts are interesting. Mr. Vanderbilt has in his private park somewhat over 180 square miles. He may ride thirty-five miles in a straight line from his chateau without reaching the boundary of his possessions. He may drive as many mils over roads as scientifically made and as smooth as the boulevards of Central Park. He may hunt in his game preserve of twenty thousand acres, through which hundreds of deer will roam, or may fish in well-stocked streams which are his from the tiny spring on the mountain-top until they merge into the French Broad. His private nurseries, from which several million choice trees, plants, and shrubs are transplanted each year, are the largest in the world, and a railroad has been built from Asheville to his chateau (three miles) to transport the hundreds of workmen employed and the material used. He has already expended something like $4,000,000 on the castle and the surrounding grounds, and it is estimated that it will cost about $6,000,000 to develop fully his plans. Twelve thousand dollars are distrusted by him among the citizens of Asheville every week in the way of salaries and other expenses in connection with his establishment.
The residence is 300 feet by 192, with long walled courts and stables in addition, yet a part of the general structure. A detailed account of it would tax the descriptive powers of an architect. It is built of stone, and three hundred stone-cutters and masons have been steadily at work for over three years, and completion is yet a year away. Mr. Frederick Law Olmstead, who laid out Central Park and more lately the World's Fair grounds at Chicago, has been in charge of the landscape gardening, which embraces the entire estate. Sunken gardens and greenhouses on which fortunes have been spent, a tennis court whose huge retaining wall, 16 feet thick and 40 feet high, is one of the finest pieces of masonry in this country, a bowling green 200 feet wide and 700 long, entirely surrounded by a hand-carve granite balustrade, and innumerable other features form a tout ensemble which surpasses anything ever dreamed of heretofore in America. Visitors to Asheville ask to have the Vanderbilt estate pointed out to them almost before they leave the train at the station. The young millionaire is not at all exclusive or selfish with his belongings, but permits visitors to drive through his grounds and inspect his residence under reasonable conditions.
 
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11   Few people realize that North Carolina is more than 500 miles in length, of that if New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Delaware, and Jew Jersey were made into one State, it would still lack over 5,000 square miles of being as large as North Carolina. Fifty-nine percent of its surface is forest, and it combines within its limits a greater variety of climate than any State in the Union except California, being semi-tropical along the sea and high and mountainous in the Western portion. It is rich in minerals as well as timber, and has not only a competent State Board of Agriculture but a Geographical Survey of National fame which has, through its able reports on the resources of North Carolina, brought several million dollars into the State for investment, and has saved the citizens of the State many times what it has cost for its support, by preventing through its reports many useless investments. North Carolina is also rich in agricultural resources, and some of the finest plantations in the South are in this noble commonwealth. It is doubtful if anywhere a more perfect example of the modern farm could be found than that of Col. Frank Coxe. It is situated in Polk County, lies along the famous Green River, and is a part of that celebrated bottom land known all over North and South Carolina as "Egypt." Colonel Foxe has improved it year after year until it has now reached the highest stage of perfection. The residence is of the pure colonial type, and upward of a hundred years old, and about it are the thousands of broad acres under scientific and intelligent cultivation.
Living back in the utter most fastnesses of the mountains, remote from all except those of their own kind, there still dwell many "Moonshiners"--a characteristic class of people-unlike any other humans except themselves. The moonshiner naturally feels that he has as much right to boil his fruit or grain into spirits as the farmer has to cook hominy in his own kettles, but the law places a negative upon his claim. So the mountain chemist is given to hiding, and, at times, when hunted too persistently, to shooting his pursuers. This is all wrong, because unlawful, but is hard to instruct the gray matter of his brain on such subjects. It is grewsome to see these lank, leathery, unkempt, semi-barbarous brethren brought into court, with manacles on their limbs, and summarily consigned to doleful exile in distant dungeons. You will, when you see them and their wives and their progeny, wonder how such a country can produce such specimens of humanity, but it is easily understood when explanation is at hand. In that region are reared the best of cattle, sheep, poultry, and fruits, but the moonshiner disdains them. He prefers, or habit and poverty compel him  to prefer, soggy hot biscuit, vile coffee, cadaverous, greasy bacon, assassinated in a frying pan. He drinks too much of his own fiery decoction and too little of the salubrious water that leaps,  gushes and sparkles on every hand. If one could capture young moonshiner girls and boys, feed them on civilized diet, girdle them with proper comfort, garment them decently, treat them amiably and educate them wholesomely, the transformation would be thorough, startling, and supreme. It would be an object-lesson conveying its own moral, and this would be the evolution of many Esmeraldas off the mimic stage, and many a study, comely, valiant, intellectual man. 
The spur of the Southern Railway running southwest from Asheville to Murphy, a distance of 120 miles, is famous as one of the most daring pieces of railroad engineering in  this country. During almost the entire length of the road the scenery is romantically wild, and presents not only very many charming views, but offers to the sportsman a prefect paradise. The streams are full of trout, and through the vast forests roam deer, bear, and wild turkeys. The country penetrated by this line is rich in talc, mineral paint, marble, kaolin, and considerable gold has been washed out. The road creeps around the wild gorge of the Natahala River, so deep that the rays of the sun only shine upon the surface of the river for an
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12   hour a day. Here is a waterfall which makes a clear plunge of nearly 200 feet; there, a sublime vista where the Little Tennessee has cut its way through the rocky barriers which stemmed its course; everywhere, views which are entrancing and sublime. It is a noble region in which Nature has uplifted her mighty monuments, and with a setting of rare loveliness. Waynesville, named in honor of "Mad Anthony" Wayne, is 30 miles from Asheville, and is the highest railroad town east of Colorado .It is the commercial centre of the far-famed Richland Valley, and is located at the foot of the Balsam Mountains. It has a superb water-power, and is a progressive, prosperous young city with many advantages. It has fine schools and churches, and there is not a bar-room within its limits. The region about Waynesville is one of the great fertility, and is noted for the superior quality of the tobacco raised. It is also a great grain and vegetable region, and its apples are not surpassed anywhere for flavor. It has an excellent hotel, and offers many inducements to either the casual visitor or home-seeker. At Andrews City, near Murphy, the sportsman will find most comfortable accommodations at the hospitable hotel of Mr. S. E. Bryson, who is a walking encyclopedia on that whole region, and on e of the most genial hosts as well.
Between Asheville and Spartanburg there is much notable scenery, especially at Tryon and in the country immediately adjacent. Tryon is 40 miles south of Asheville. It is a beautiful little village, with Alps-like surroundings. Its population is largely made up of health-seekers from every part of the country. The almost perpendicular wall of mountains, 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, curved like a horseshoe to the north and west of the village, effectively shuts out all the colder winds, while the open  country to the south gives the sun a full opportunity to not only temper the air by direct rays, but by radiation from the mountain sides. The thermometer at Tryon seldom goes much below the freezing point, and snow is a rarity-- and this at an altitude of over 1,500 feet. About Tryon are beautiful roads, and the mountains in the neighborhood offer excellent opportunities for tramping. There is also an excellent hotel at Tryon. Visitors at Asheville can make excursions to  Tryon comfortably, leaving Asheville in the morning and return in the evening.
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13   The Battery Park Hotel is so closely associated with Asheville that the names are almost synonymous. It derives its name from its being located on a spot of historical interest, for it was at the very point where the hotel now stands that the Confederates planted a battery of artillery for the defense of the town. The old breastworks still remain, but the grim messengers of death have given place to flowers, and the happy voices of children are heard from the old ramparts instead of the roar of artillery. Crowning as it does the summit of a noble eminence in the centre of a lovely private park of twenty-five acres, and surrounded by a grove of ancient oaks, it presents a most inviting and picturesque appearance, and stands boldly in view for miles in almost any direction. It is scarcely a stone's throw from the public square of Asheville, yet is 125 feet above it and so secluded in its own environments that the sojourner within its hospitable walls may find, if he desires it, perfect restfulness and repose. The structure is modern, architecturally beautiful, and singularly free form the stilted conventionalities of the usual hotel. The frontage measures 475 feet, yet it is so broken with broad porches, gables, oriel and bow windows that the dimensions deceive the eye. The porches, which are a great feature because out-of-door life is so attractive in Asheville, are broad and almost never-ending. During the warmer seasons they are fringed with hanging and stationary boxes of flowers, and in the winter enclosed in glass, thus affording invalids opportunities for sun-baths and long walks without leaving the house. From these extensive verandas the most magnificent panorama of mountain views is spread before the vision. The scenes change with the hours, for the rosy lights of morning, the glare of noonday, and the deepening shadows of the evening give each in their turn a new and varied charm to the view. To the left may be seen in full view the noble chateau being erected by Mr. Vanderbilt, and directly in front as a grand, centre-piece of the scene stands old Pisgah, with its sentinels on either side, while down below in the near foreground are the pretty sheets and homes of Asheville. Within the Battery Park all is comfort and elegance. The spacious entrance hall, in which the office occupies a corner, is a picture of attractiveness with its massive fireplace, broad and graceful stairway, and easy chairs. Here every evening is a brilliant gathering of guests, who in little groups-the ladies with their fancy work and gentlemen with their cigars- pass the hours in informal sociability, lending a pleasuring and congenial atmosphere, an unknown feature in many of the great hostelries. On many evenings there are special entertainments in the great ball-room-- the handsomest of any resort in the country--for it is fully equipped with a stage and all the furnishings. No detail los_013_mod.jpg (595805 bytes)
14    has been omitted to make the Battery Park a home in every sense of that much-abused world. The rooms are all large, light, and cheerful, handsomely furnished, steam-heated, many having open fireplaces, and one private porcelain baths. There are also bowling-alleys, billiard-rooms for both ladies and gentlemen, a shooting-gallery, and all the accessories for popular amusement for old and young. Mr. E.P. McKissick, the manager of the Battery Park, is a gentleman whose genial personality and all-round good fellowship has given him a reputation as an idea host which has reached far beyond the limits of North Carolina. He has the rare faculty, to a wonderful degree, of not only managing the practical part of the business with consummate skill, but of making visitors feel from the moment they enter the house that they are his personal guests. He has surrounded himself with most competent assistants, and the chef in charge of the cuisine this season has been at the Alcazar at St. Augustine and Hotel Champlain for several years. It is needless to add that the table and service are up to the highest standard in every particular.
One of the enjoyable and popular features of the Battery Park is the Swannanoa Hunt Club, which affords an added pleasure to those who enjoy out-door sport. The charming little clubhouse occupies a prominent place on the lawn of the hotel adjoining the conservatories. The Hunt Club, of which Dr. S.W. Battle, of Asheville, is president, and Mr. Henry M. Steele, of Baltimore, is secretary, is the "swell" feature socially of the city, the leading people being members, and its balls, which are held at the Battery Park, are brilliant affairs, many guests coming from New York and other Northern cities to attend them. The club has two houses, the one appearing in the illustration and one near the Sulphur Springs, about four miles from the city; so situated as to allow from its verandas a following view of the hunt for many miles. At the home club the cuisine will be under the charge of the chef of the hotel, but  Manager McKissick, who is himself an artist with the chafing dish, presides at many of the informal feasts, which are memorable occasions to all who attend them. The club-houses are artistically and appropriately furnished, the walls being adorned with mementos of the chase and trappings and pictures of the hunt, special rooms being fitted up for ladies who ride in or enjoy the chase. Guests of the Battery Park are made welcome at the club as visiting members, with corresponding privileges. For those who do not care for fox-hunting, the stables of the hotel provide an ample supply of either saddle or driving horses, and as out-of-door exercise is exceedingly popular and practical at Asheville, and the roads for miles about are so beautiful, there is every opportunity for pleasure in this line.
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15   A few years ago a party of Northern capitalists, attracted by the beauties of Asheville, purchased a  tract of over 160 acres upon the sunny southern slope of Beaumont Mountain, within the limits of Asheville, and erected upon it the beautiful Kenilworth Inn, a massive structure, which from any point of view is picturesque from without and inviting and home-like from within. Its graceful towers, castellated porte-cochere and many gables give it a romantic appearance which is not dispelled by the surroundings. The park of which it is a fitting centre is heavily wooded with a forest of oak and odorous pines, with the exception of that portion in front of the house, which is an unbroken lawn of twenty acres. As the train from the North approaches Baltimore, the Kenilworth literally "bursts upon view" in all the magnificence of its attractive architecture and location. The train stops at Biltmore, which adjoins on one side the Kenilworth Park and on the other Mr. George Vanderbilt's possessions. Here the passengers leave the train and after a short ride in the hotel's easy conveyances over the well-made road which zigzags up the mountain-side the alight at the handsome entrance, within which all is life, brilliancy. and gayety. The interior appointments of the Kenilworth are not only exceedingly comfortable but elegant. The broad oak staircase, with its massive hand-carved newel posts, the heavily raftered ceilings in the same wood, and the large fireplace are attractive features of the entrance hall. Broad halls extend from either side, into which open the large, exquisitely furnished parlors, the beautiful music room, and ladies' writing and billiard rooms. All the rooms of the entire lower floor open into each other in such a way as to give a light, cheerful, and home-like atmosphere. The dining-room, which is unusually comfortable and luxurious in its furnishings, is lighted by large windows on two sides, and instead of being one large room is a series of smaller ones, connecting in such a way as to permit of its being made larger or smaller as the exigencies require. The sleeping rooms of the Kenilworth are models of comfort. Every room has a large closet, and many of them baths. The entire house is steam-heated and electric-lighted. From all  of the rooms may be had most magnificent views, but those from the sun parlors which are in the large tower are simply beyond description. In one of these Miss a Becket has established her studio, because, as this charming and famous artist says, it is the most beautiful spot she knows of. The social life at the Kenilworth is as fascinating as its surroundings. One of the finest of orchestras gives morning and afternoon concerts, and plays each evening for dancing. The stables are full of the best of horses, and riding and driving over the beautiful mountain roads afford unlimited pleasure and entertainment. In Mr. Lyman Rhoades, the proprietor, is emphasized the expression that a good hotel man, like the poet, is born not made. He has had long years of experience, and under his management the Kenilworth is admirably conducted, the cuisine kept at a high degree of excellence, and the guests made to feel that nothing is being or will be omitted which may add  to their comfort or enjoyment. los_015_mod.jpg (611490 bytes)
16   The journey down the valley of the French Broad from Asheville to Hot Springs is one which ever remains in the memory of him who takes it. The distance is short, scarcely forty miles, but there is not the smallest portion of it devoid of picturesque interest. It is, in fact, generally conceded by all extensive travelers that it is one of the loveliest trips in America, and no visitor to Western North Carolina should miss taking it. For the entire distance the Southern Railroad hugs close to the river, which dashes merrily over boulders as it cuts its way through the wild gorges of the mountains. here and there are long stretches of placid water, as if the river, tired by its battling, was resting before making another mad rush down its tortuous race to the sea. As it nears Hot Springs the mountains become bolder and hem it in closer and closer, as if by common resolve to block its way, but with one mighty curve it leaps into the lovely Hot Springs Valley, and merrily, as if rejoicing in having outwitted the mighty barriers, winds its way along fertile fields, almost encircling the beautiful Mountain Park Hotel, and then crosses the Tennessee line six miles beyond, at Paint Rock, which in itself is one of the most massive natural monuments on the globe. This rock rises precipitately from the river level several hundred feet, and its rough and weather beaten face is covered with Indian hieroglyphics- said to be the vestiges of an inedible paint with which the surface of the rock was coated by the aborigines at some indefinite period between the creation and the Civil War.
At Hot Springs the visitor will find the Mountain Park Hotel an ideal place for rest or recuperation. The Springs are famous and their efficacy especially in cases of stubborn rheumatism or gout is wonderful. The bathing facilities are unexcelled. There are sixteen separate pools, 9X16, lined and floored, with polished marble. The waters possess the same qualities as the baths at  Ems and Wiesbaden, Germany, and the Hot Springs of Arkansas, while their accessibility and elegance, together with the skill with which they are administered by the attendant physicians, makes them far more desirable. The hotel accommodates five hundred guests and is under the able management of Messrs. Doolittle and Bowden, formerly of Richfield Springs. There is a daily Pullman service without charge between New York and Hot Springs via the Pennsylvania and Southern Railway, and also between Cincinnati and the Hot Springs.
Passengers leaving New York at 4:30 in the afternoon reach the Springs before dark the next day.
Knoxville is situated nearly in the centre of the East Tennessee Valley- a valley larger in area than the state of Massachusetts, upon gently-sloping hills on the banks of the Tennessee River, in full view of the highest peaks of the Appalachian Mountains, forty miles southward, and within thirty miles of 51,000 square miles of coal formations- the bituminous coal fields of Tennessee. Immediately around the city is one vast storehouses of hard-wood timbers, valuable minerals, and the most beautiful and durable marbles and building stones in the South. The City was founded in 1792, and named in honor of General Knox, first Secretary of War of the United States. The population is about 45,000, and the city trade, wholesale, retail, and manufacturing, amounts to $50,000,000 annually, there being 200 manufacturers. The offices and shops of the Southern Railway, Western system, are in Knoxville, which is also a terminal point of several short roads.
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17   The visitor finds here all the advantages and improvements of a modern city- well-paved streets, electric cars, extensive sewer system. It is a city of schools and churches, and the University of Tennessee, the Tennessee School for the Deaf and Dumb, and the asylum for the insane, are located here.
The Imperial Hotel, to which all visitors to Knoxville who enjoy the comforts of life will stop, is a delightful house, beautifully furnished and admirably managed by Mr. R.W. Farr, who is a Philadelphian with long experience in the hotel business. It is thoroughly modern, and from its beautiful dining-room on the top floor a broad bird's eye view of Knoxville and the fertile Tennessee Valley may be enjoyed. the cuisine is above criticism, and as the markets of Knoxville are proverbially good, the tables of the Imperial are abundantly supplied with an unusually varied assortment of fruits, vegetables and meats. The furnishings of the house are new and the appointments equal to those in best of the metropolitan hostelries. The Imperial can be unreservedly recommended.
Tate Springs, which may be easily reached from Knoxville, is in the centre of a glorious country, where "health and happiness go hand in hand." It has been said of this spring: "While it does not claim to be a consecrated spring, imparting to those who drink of its waters the vigor and bloom of perpetual youth, it is asserted that it has no superior. Whether there is another like it, or equal to it, are questions upon which it would be invidious to express an opinion; but they are questions which have been negatively answered by hundreds of relieved and recuperated invalids in every part of the land." But since this was said, a wider experience and a more thorough test have removed all room of doubt, and this is not conceded to be the best medical water in America. The salutary effects which its use superinduces on the animal economy are truly wonderful. Nature's own remedy-compound and laborated we know not how- its healing qualities are such that no art can equal them; and if nature herself has anywhere made such another provision for the relief of morbid, physical, and mental action, it has not yet been discovered. Such is the onion of medical men of highest culture and most extensive practical observation; and, what is of more value, of thousands who have given it the test of personal experience, and thereby obtained relief from their afflictions- relief that they had heretofore sought in vain. There are  two fine hotels and twenty four cottages at Tate Springs. Mr. Thomas Tomlinson is owner and proprietor. the large hotel remains open all the year around. One of the handsomest private cottages is owned and occupied each season by Major C. H. Hudson, General Manager of the Western System of the Southern Railway. Many of the best-known people in the country are to be found at this beautiful and healthful resort, and those who cannot personally visit the springs may procure the water, as it is being shipped daily in great quantities; a letter addressed to Mr. Tomlinson at Tate Springs, Tenn., who will bring all the information as to the analysis of the water and its curative properties.
The tourist in this region, even if he has but a day at his disposal, should under no circumstances fail to visit Roan Mountain. Unique in position, as "the highest human habitation East of the Rocky Mountains," Cloudland on the summit of Roan Mountain presents to the eye a marvelous panorama of field and forest, mountain and valley, almost overwhelming at first sight from its vastness, but growing in beauty and attractiveness every day, as one becomes more familiar with it. Its horizon extends over 150 miles in every direction, commanding a view of seven different States. The are included in this wonderful vision is estimated to be fully 50,000 square miles of varied and sublime scenery, a very wilderness of mountains.
To reach this picturesque Cloudland, the traveler takes the Southern Railway from Knoxville or Bristol to Johnson City, and then transfers to the Cranberry (Stem-Winder) Narrow-Gauge Railroad, for a ride of 26 miles to Roan Mountain Station, passing through the wild and romantic Doe River Caņon four miles long, and 1,500 feet deep. From the station a bracing ride of twelve miles over a beautiful and romantic mountain road which zigzags up the steep inclines, brings the traveler to the Cloudland Hotel on the very summit. This house is famous as one of the best mountain hostelries
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18   of the world. It is new, large, well built, and accommodates five hundred guests. All the rooms have outside exposures, and the State line between North Carolina and Tennessee runs through the office.
The temperature is wonderfully even and deliciously cool. Once only during nine weeks in last June, July and August, did the mercury reach 75 degrees. The barometer averaging 24 inches, instead of 30 as at sea-level, shows that one-fifth of the atmospheric pressure is removed. Even hay fever disappears absolutely, not a case having been known there.
Prof. J. W. Chickering, of Washington, an enthusiastic mountain-climber and botanist, says: "The beauty of the Roan Mountain scenery, words would fail to describe. Standing more than a mile above sea-level, with mountains on every side, we look out upon such a wealth of creative magnificence, both in vastness of extent and minuteness of detail, as it would be hard to equal anywhere on the globe. The cloud views from the summit of Roan Mountain are magnificent, and never twice alike. Often in the early morning, the whole horizon will be one mass of pure white vapor, like the waters of a shoreless sea, with only here and there at a mountain top, like an island, emerging above the ghostly billows.
"At the very summit, where in the Northern Appalachians or the Rockies would be a mass of rock, bare and barren, or a crown of huge boulders, is a grassy slope of more than 1,000 acres, the soil black and fertile, and the grass of a wonderfully vivid green. This great meadow is dotted here and there with clumps of alder, and the mountain rhododendron, forming symmetrical domes of dark pink, from six to eight feet in height, while here and there are great masses of the flame-colored azalea, varying from green-yellow to crimson, looking in the setting sun like great waves of fire sweeping over prairies.
"On two sides of the mountain, deep gorges, or ravines, come almost to the mountain top, so that one may stand on the brink of an almost perpendicular precipice and look down into a gulf 2,000 feet deep at his very feet, and see the clouds in process of creation, as the warm and moist air rising from the valley sweeps up the gorge, and meets the cooler temperature of the upper heights, the ascending current being sometimes so strong that a newspaper or straw hat, thrown down into the abyss, is brought back again to the thrower, literally upon the wings of the winds."
Roan Mountain will always be a popular resort.
The city of Chattanooga [which, according to D. G. Charles, C.E., means "the place where they pulled the Choctaw out of the water," and which was originally written "Choc-taw-nu-ga"] is admirably located, both from a commercial and picturesque point of view. The noble Tennessee River, which few people realize is, with its tributaries, 2,500 miles long, winds its way around the north and west sides of the city, and is navigable for ordinary boats many miles in either direction. To the tourist, Chattanooga and its historic environs presents many attractions. It has a population of 50,000 or more, and is one of the most prosperous, thriving, and busy cities of the New South. Handsome business blocks and beautiful residencies and streets give it a substantial, prosperous appearance. From the standpoint of present interest, Chattanooga's history dates from that memorable day in November, 1863, when Sherman's advance had reached a point opposite the town and General Bragg sent that ominous message to General Grant:
"As there may still be some non-combatants in Chattanooga, I deem to proper to notify you that prudence would dictate their early withdrawal."
The story of the siege of Chattanooga, of the battle above the clouds, of the bloody field of Chickamauga, meaning in the Indian tongue "the river of death," or the desperate and terrific struggle on Missionary Ridge, need not  be recounted here; they are recorded by the chisel of History on the granite pages of Time, and will endure until the end.
There are many famous spots, both in this country and in foreign climes, where Nature has spread a panorama at the foot of some noble mountain, that men may gaze upon and be enraptured. It has been the fortune of the writer to view many of these, but for breadth of vision, historic interest, and picturesque loveliness, the outlook from the point of Lookout Mountain, which rises almost above the city, stands without an equal, prominent land-
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19   marks in seven different States being within the range of vision on a clear day.
The city of Chattanooga lies almost at your feet, yet 1,700 feet below you, the noise and din of its commerce lost to the ear; and the noble Tennessee, tracing its silvery and sinuous course through its fertile valley, is visible for many miles before it fades from view among distant mountains. Turn which way you may, there is spread before the vision a mingling of the wild and picturesque, the romantic and inspiring, in startling and fascinating combinations. No matter at what season or how often one beholds these scenes, they are always entrancing, whether in the clear bright greens and browns of spring; the dazzling gold and rich crimson of autumn, or the silver and somber shades of winter.
Down the valley, where the "din of Chickamauga awoke the Nation," the Government has established a National Park, embracing in its ten square miles all the battlefield. Liberal appropriations have been made by Congress to carry on the work, which has included not only the construction of a superb boulevard from the city along t he crest of Missionary Ridge, a distance of thirteen miles, but the restoration of the great battlefield, in such a way as to illustrate the actual movements of the two armies.
Congress has already appropriated a half-million dollars. Twenty-three State Commissions are now co-operating with the National Commission, of which Gen. H. V. Boynton is the able secretary, in locating battle lines and erecting monuments. The veterans and the great army societies on both sides are taking active interest in the project. Ohio has appropriated $95,000 for her fifty-five monuments, New York is expending $81,000, and other States proportionate amounts. There are already over forty miles
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20   of finished roads of first-class construction in and about the park. Historical tablets, each with comprehensive text cast in the metal plates for army headquarters corps and divisions for both sides and for both days' battle, are already in place at Chickamauga and are ready for Chattanooga. Five steel and iron observation towers, seventy feet high, at prominent points on each field, afford a wide range of vision>
The grounds are a Park only in the sense of being restored to their condition at the time of the battle. No work has been done for purely decorative purposes. The old lines of works, and old houses and stone walls which were landmarks in the battles and which were destroyed, have been simply restored.
Chattanooga will of necessity remain the headquarters for the tide of visitors which from this time forward must be a continuing and increasing current.
On the noble plateau which crowns the summit of Lookout Mountain, and facing the east, stands the beautiful Inn. Architecturally a gem, whose graceful lines and attractive facade mark it as a masterpiece of its designer, the Inn possesses within its walls all the elegancies and comforts of the finest hotels in America. It has a frontage of three hundred and sixty-five feet, and along the entire length run wide and comfortable verandas, upon which one may spend hours or days in languid pleasure, with the world at your feet, and breathe an atmosphere so clear and bracing that it becomes a veritable elixir of health and strength. The great entrance hall, with its artistic oak ceiling, beautiful quartered oak staircase, and broad and inviting fireplaces lends in its entirety the effect of the luxurious interior of a modern nineteenth-century mansion of the rich. Into this beautiful hall opening the parlors, reception and waiting rooms, all tastefully finished and decorated in quiet but exquisite taste. From the broad windows opening to the floor in all these rooms, as in fact from all the rooms in the house, may be had views which cannot be surpassed anywhere on the continent. The Inn is owned by a company of wealthy Northern gentlemen, of which Mr. John P. Sanborn, of Newport, is the President, and is presided over by Mr. M. S. Gibson, of the famous Ottaway House on Cushing's Island, Casco Bay, Maine - an ideal host, a sumptuous provider, and a man whose reputation is so wide that not to know him is to argue one's self unknown.
The dining hall, which is finished in quartered oak and artistically decorated, will accommodate six hundred persons, and so great is the popularity of that Inn that it is often taxed to its utmost capacity. There are billiard, reading, and smoking-rooms, and all the appointments of the Inn surpass those found in most of the better class of city hotels. It is lighted by electricity, heated by steam, and also has open fireplaces in both public and private rooms. Wide verandas surround three sides of the house, and a high tower, affording an unrivalled view, crowns
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21   the whole. In the construction, fitting and equipment of the Inn, the comfort of the guests has been primarily considered, and special attention has been given to the sanitary arrangements, which are as perfect as modern science can make them- over $20,000 having been expended on them alone. A water-supply of great purity is abundant, and it is needless to add that its high location makes the drainage perfect.
As a health resort Lookout Mountain has no superior. The air is balmy and exhilarating, the pine forest covering its surface furnishes that restorative element peculiar to the pine trees. The absorbent quality of the light and sandy soil prevents dampness, malaria and rheumatism being unknown. The elevation guarantees purity of atmosphere, most potent in its influences upon sufferers from lung, throat and nervous diseases. Winter or summer it is a paradise. Those who come to it will be disposed to single it out for a second visit; and the fact that one of the best hotels in the country is here will complete the allurements to visitors escaping from the North and West to the pleasures of a warmer climate in the winter season.
Atlanta, whose name has been so indelibly written on the historical and commercial pages of the life of this nation, needs no extended introduction to the reader. It stands today in the majesty of its strength, a typical American city, full of energy, enterprise, and patriotism. Certainly no city in the South and few in the entire country have as carried manufacturing interests or sounder financial institutions. It is the commercial and geographical metropolis of a vast region, and to it, so far as the South is concerned, as to ancient Rome, all roads lead. it is not within the intent of this article to tell in detail of Atlanta's great industrial interests, of the man millions of dollars invested in her manufacturing and business enterprises, of her superb public buildings and commercial blocks, her miles of well-paved streets and handsome residences, her fifty miles of modern sewerage, her perfect school system and modern educational and religious edifices, and her magnificent and costly opera house, the second largest in the United States. To tell it all would fill a volume, so let us turn rather to her perhaps less important but also less prosaic features, and tell of her beautiful well-kept parks, including the McPherson military reservation, the finest in all America, on which the Government has spent or will spend three millions. Let us tell of her charming climate, which converts the severe winter of the North into Indian summer, and banishes utterly all bronchial and asthmatic troubles, which tempers too the heat of the summer, and gives those who live within her gates the opportunity to tell with truth that they need a blanket over them every July or August night, for Atlanta is far enough from the sea- and how history has associated those two names! - and high enough on the mountainous plateau to give her an altitude of 1,200 feet. She has a social life which is charming, her clubs rank with the best, and summer or winter the strangers will find not only a cordial and hospitable welcome, but an endless number of opportunities for pleasure. No city enjoys a more equable winter climate, and any one going South for the season will not go amiss if it is made a part of their plan to spend a portion of the time, at least, in the "Gate City,"
Atlanta is now preparing to open in the fall of '95 a stupendous Exposition, to which all the world will be invited. So much has been written about he enterprise that every one is more or less informed concerning it. Any one familiar with Atlanta's citizens and their indomitable push and energy knows that it will be a success second only in point of magnitude to the World's Fair.
As the South is proud of Atlanta, so is Atlanta proud of the Aragon Hotel- a noble structure, in every way typical of all that is advanced in American architecture, good taste and refined elegance. It stands on the highest point in the city, just where the commercial centre ends and the residential portion begins. Peachtree Street, known everywhere among the traveled as one of the most beautiful residence avenues in this country, has its beginning at almost the very doors of the Aragon, and across from it are the fashionable Capital Club and the Governor's
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22   mansion, while just below is the Grand Opera House, and three squares beyond that the Union depot. The Aragon is not only acknowledged to be the finest all-the-year hotel in the South, but would, if located in New York among the majestic and gorgeous hotel-palaces of the metropolis, attract attention. Madame Patti-Nicolini, after having spent several days there last winter, wrote an autograph letter to Mr. Frank Bell, the President of the Aragon Company, in which she said that her apartments at the Aragon were the finest and most luxurious of any she had ever occupied in America, and that everything else was in keeping. "This," said she, "is a little burst of enthusiasm, every word of which is meant." The exterior of the Aragon is of the Spanish Romanesque type, the first story being of handsome Georgia marble, and the remaining five of brick with marble trimmings. The main entrance is under a massive arch of graceful lines, and opens into the office, a spacious room, wainscoted in cabinet oak nine feet from the marble floor. The ceiling is raftered in the same beautiful wood, which adds to the harmonious effect. To the left of the main entrance is the ladies' entrance and reception room. in charge of a servant in livery, who receives the cards of visitors and escorts them to the luxurious and superbly furnished and reception rooms and parlors. The Aragon is conducted on both the American and European plans, and a large portion of the ground floor is taken up with teh cafe, which is charmingly and richly furnished. Hundreds of wide-spreading palms give it a semi-tropical appearance. It is modeled after that in the Holland House, New York, and is no way its inferior.
The main dining room is spacious, and richly furnished. It is finished in oak with large buffets and fireplaces. At one end are two large elliptical windows, 30 feet each, making the end entire glass. The ceiling is paneled with heavy oak beams, and decorated in sixteenth-century style. The electric features of this room are especially attractive, the centre pillars being entwined with a vine effect in electric light.
The breakfast-room is appointed in pure Castilian style, and on the walls are hung beautiful paintings in oil on tapestry. The entire table service is of the finest Haviland china and Gorham silverware, each piece bearing the crest of the royal house of Aragon, while the cuisine is above criticism. Every day the best markets in New York contribute their quota, to which are added the delicacies and specialties of the South. An orchestra of fine musicians adds to the enjoyment of the dinner. The furnishings of the Aragon are throughout of the finest and most
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23   attractive patterns, the tapestries and carpets luxurious. The house is new and nothing but the most modern in furniture of fittings has been place in it.
Upon the roof a charming roof-garden attracts each evening, during the summer months, many of Atlanta's best social circles. It is a bit of fragrant fairyland, with palms, blooming flowers and tinkling fountains, where nightly one of the finest orchestras in the city regales with restful melodies the chosen few who have access to its beauties.
The management of the Aragon is what might be expected in such a perfectly appointed house. In fact, even the traveler who tarries but for a day is impressed with the perfect system and complete supervision which pertains to every department. At no hotel, whether North, South, East or West, will the visitor be made to feel more completely at home, or will he be better cared for while a guest. During his many visits to Atlanta, the writer has never seen a day, winter, or summer, which was not climatically ideal, the average winter day being like those of Indian summer in New York and New England.
The opening of the famous Kimball House at Atlanta several years ago was chronicled far and wide, not as an item of local interest alone, but as of importance to the entire South. It was a matter of general public congratulation, and it is no exaggeration to say that it was the keynote of the new era commercially in Atlanta and the Southern Atlanta Coast States. The Kimball is a magnificent structure, architecturally beautiful and located in the very heart of the city, surrounded by the business marts of trade and in close proximity to the Union depot, where all the great lines of railroad centre, and from which electric street car lines run to every portion of the city and out to the delightful suburbs and parks. This great hotel can readily accommodate a thousand guests, and its light and airy corridors and spacious arcades on every floor not only relive any impression of crowding but afford the guests delightful promenades from which they may look down upon the office lobby, which, especially at evening, when brilliantly illuminated, with its hundreds of electric lights, presents an animated scene of ever-changing interest. This lobby is famous in the political annals of Georgia, for in it, especially during the sessions of the State Legislature, more political schemes are made and unmade than in any other room in the South. On the ground floor, which has entrances on three principal streets, and connected with the office, are the general ticket offices of the principal railroads, telegraph offices open all night, large billiard rooms, and every convenience for the traveling public. The Kimball is perfect in all of its appointments, its cuisine excellent, and its table abundantly supplied with the best the markets afford. It is run only on the American plan, and Charles Beermann & Co., the proprietors, are well known to the traveling public as thorough, genial, and popular hosts. They are also proprietors of the Markham Hotel, which is, like the Kimball, in close proximity to the Union depot, and is a thoroughly comfortable hotel.
Tourists visiting the South will find the route from New York to Jacksonville, via Atlanta, a very desirable one, especially if it includes a sojourn in the "Gate City."
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24   The city of Charlotte, N.C., is historically interesting from the fact that it was here that the "Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence" was adopted. It is also the centre of the North Carolina gold-fields, and a mint was formerly established here, at which over $5,000,000 in gold was deposited up to the breaking out of the war, when the mint was abandoned. At Charlotte, the Southern Railway forks, the eastern stem running south, connecting at Columbia, S.C., with F.C. & P. for Florida points, while the western continues to Atlanta. It is a thriving manufacturing town of 15,500, with all the energy, push, and enterprise of a metropolis. It has a score of extensive factories, and seven cotton mills, splendidly paved streets, and handsome business blocks and residences. It is perhaps as typical a city of the "new South" as could be named. It supports two prosperous daily papers, 37 churches, a university and excellent schools, and is destined to be within a few years of commercial and manufacturing center of recognized natural importance. Everywhere there are the evidences of wealth, thrift, progress, and improvement. Broad, well-paved streets, well-built, prosperous-looking storehouses, magnificent residences, with their grand old trees and well-kept lawns, a $100,000 Government building, and busy, bustling, and extensive factories attract the eye of the stranger and impress him with the fact that Charlotte is only rightly named when her people call her the "Queen City of the Old North State."
 Tourists en route to or from Florida will find Charlotte an excellent place to break the journey and will be amply repaid for the time spent here. They will find a most satisfactory hotel there in the Buford, which is a thoroughly modern building, and has lately been completely refitted and refurnished at great expense and with excellent taste. It is one of the handsomest and best-managed hotels in the South, and its present proprietors, Messrs. Faritosh and Amer, have each had a long and successful experience in hotel management in the North. They exercise a personal supervision over all portions of the house. The Buford is a substantial structure of brick, has about 100 rooms, and in it are all the modernisms of the best hotels, including electric lights, rapid elevator, return call bells, team heat and open fireplaces. Charlotte is becoming more and more popular as a place for Northern people to spend the winter and the Buford offers a comfortable home to all such as may wish to remain for an extended period.
As the dining-room and kitchen are located on the top floor, all unpleasant odors are avoided, and in addition the guests have a delightful outlook. Altogether the Buford Hotel is as near perfect as good management and comfortable surroundings can make it.
Brunswick, Ga., presents one of the most remarkable records of development of any city in the South. Ten years ago it was a struggling village dependent upon shoal-draught vessels for its commerce of lumber and naval stores. Today it is a thrifty city of 10,000 population, with a shipping business of $14,000,000 annually, and giving cargoes to the deepest draught vessels. There is also a regular line of steamships sailing fortnightly from Brunswick to Liverpool. This is largely due to its importance as the South Atlantic terminus of the Southern Railway, and to the remarkable success of Col. C. P. Goodyear in deepening its ocean bar by the explosion of dynamite, thus in two years changing the depth from 17 feet at mean high tide to 23.9. The peninsula on which Brunswick is situated is entirely surrounded by salt water, and furnishes 35 miles of deep-draught wharfage. The town is pre-eminently healthful, and with its new system of sewerage and drainage, costing $170,000, will be freed from even the casual effects of autumn malarias. The city and county have a splendid system of graded public schools, modern in equipment and curriculum. One of the most pleasant features of Brunswick is its chain of a dozen sea-girted islands, with long stretches of magnificent beach, and rapidly coming into prominence as ideal winter resorts. There is Jekyl Island, famous the world over as the beautiful winter home of multi-millionaires, and its splendid hunting grounds, with wild boar, deer, quail and other winged game; Cumberland, with its magnificent hotels; St. Simon the isle of traditions, and villages of summer resort; on all sides the rarest of fishing-grounds. These islands are charming both in winter and summer. Brunswick is equally enticing in its delights of summer breeze and winter free-
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25   dom from cold. As a country of fruits and vegetables the section adjacent to Brunswick is much the same as Florida, and oranges, lemons, olives, bananas, pecans, and other semi-tropical fruits are grown by home gardeners to remarkable perfection. On the reclaimed marsh and swamp lands celery is grown to perfection. There is much to attract the seeker after ante-bellum lore in this section, and everywhere traces of the life that has been so fascinating to writers of modern fiction. From the standpoint of either business or pleasure Brunswick should not be overlooked by the Southern tourist ore the home seeker. It is surely destined to achieve great future commercial importance. That portion of the Southern Railway which runs between Atlanta and Brunswick connects at Everett with Florida Central & Peninsula Ry.
Savannah, which has a population of 65,000, is distinctly Southern in its appearance, and the plan of the city designed by Oglethorpe, its founder, has been adhered to. No other American city has a greater wealth of foliage, or such charming seclusion and such sylvan perfection, so united with all the convenience and compactness of a great commercial city. Its public squares are adorned with statues and fountains, and are filled with gigantic live-oaks, bedecked with the graceful hanging moss of the tropics, with here and there beautiful magnolias, catalpas, and banana trees. Among the flowers the most beautiful are the rose and the camellia-japonica, which bloom luxuriantly in mid-winter in the open air.
But its natural beauty is not all that Savannah boasts. Its architecture is varied and striking, much of it in the quaint fashion of bygone days, but with those characteristics that the art of the present day is eager to counterfeit. It is rich in historic memories; and having passed through four wars, it is necessarily a city of much historic interest. Today Savannah is representative both of the old and the new South. It possesses many of the characteristics of the ante-bellum period, with the thrift, enterprise, business activity, and the wealth that have made it a great commercial city. Among its historically interesting public buildings is the old theater built in the early part of the century and now the oldest playhouse in America. The Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences, the art gallery of the South, occupying the home of one of the early governors of the colony, has become famous within the last few years. A writer in the Magazine of Art says of it that it is like nothing so much as a bit of Munich strayed from the banks of Iser to the New World.
Christ Church, the oldest church in the city, dates from the founding of the colony, John Wesley, having been its rector, long before he espoused the doctrine of Methodism. It was in Christ Church that the first Sunday School was established by Wesley half a century before Robert Raikes, who is honored as the founder of Sunday Schools, originated the scheme of Sunday instruction in England. The Independent Presbyterian Church dates back to 1755, and in its dedication, President James Monroe assisted. The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, the domus of the Roman Catholic see of Savannah, is one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in the South. The architecture is French Gothic, in the style of the Notre Dame cathedral in Paris. Wesley Monumental Church, although of modern architecture, is, strange as it may seem, the only known monument to the founder of Methodism, and stands within a short distance of the great preacher's first pulpit in America. One of the most famous and beautiful cemeteries in all America is "Bona-venture," at Savannah, and within its sacred confines have been buried many of the most distinguished Southerners. 
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26   Fernandina is located in a sheltered situation on the west side of Amelia Island, the northern extremity of which guards the entrance to Cumberland Sound and the extensive land-locked harbor, into which open the St. Mary's and Amelia Rivers from the Nassau Inlet, the former from the west, and the latter from the southeast.
The harbor of Fernandina is one of the finest and most commodious on the Atlantic Coast. It is similar to Charleston and Savannah in having a bar at its entrance, and in respect to the draught which can be carried to its wharves the three cities are about of a par. But Fernandina excels the others in that the wharfing shore is only about three miles from the sea-buoy or open ocean.
Throughout the portion of Fernandina devoted to private residences are found some of the handsomest and cosiest homes in all Florida. The gently sloping eminence upon which this portion of the city is built affords facilities for ample drainage, which has been thoroughly effected by a perfect and modern system of sewerage. The atmosphere, laden with the perfume of the sea and exhalations from the vast pine forests near at hand, is pure and healthful; and the ocean tides, sweeping over the salt marshes, leave no malaria-breeding stagnant pools. In the light sandy soil, mixed with comminuted shell, is found a source of productiveness attested by the luxuriant growth of the orange trees and shade trees of all kinds, including the stately palm, and of the numerous vegetable-gardens and flower-yards abounding in and about the city.
But the beach of Amelia Island, only two miles from Fernandina proper, demands more than passing attention. It is about twenty-two miles long, and has an average width of two miles. The driveway to the Beach from the sown is a compact shell road.
Among the interesting antiquarian object at Fernandina are the site of the old fort and the "Old Town" of Fernandina, relics of the old Spanish times. Some two or three miles from the town stands old Fort Clinch. Excursions by steamer through Cumberland Sound bring the tourist to some delightful places on the surrounding islands. On Cumberland Island is the historic estate of Dungeness (now the property of Mr. Carnegie) donated to General Nathaniel Greene by the State. Broad avenues, bounded by plantations of ancient orange and olive-trees and bordered by giant oaks, penetrate the Island, on which rest the ashes of "Light Horse Harry" Lee of Revolutionary fame.
Jekyl Island is also in the vicinity, and is the property of the Jekyl Island Club.
A number of persons doing business in Jacksonville are residents of Fernandina, going to and fro over the Florida Central and Peninsular Railroad.
Jacksonville, a city of nearly thirty thousand people, stretches back from and beside the banks of the noble St. John's River. It is cosmopolitan, as such a place must be that is the gateway by which the throngs that visit Florida every winter enter the State. Constantly improving railroad facilities have brought it into close contact with the cities of the North and West, and a new union depot is in course of erection for the accommodation of the traveling public. At this point in the heart of the city, the Florida Central and Peninsular Railroad has its terminal, with large yard facilities and wharves at which the New York steams of the "Clyde" line land and embark their passengers and freight, and from Jacksonville the Florida Central and Peninsular sends out branches in all directions- north, through Savannah and Columbia, to the highlands of South Carolina,
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27   the magnificent, towering mountain peaks of North Carolina and Tennessee, and over the hills of Old Virginia to the cities of the North, by the Southern Railway system; north-west via Everett, by vestibuled trains to Cincinnati, passing through Macon, Atlanta, and Chattanooga, over the hills of Georgia and the picturesque scenery of Tennessee, and luxuriant Kentucky; again through Everett, by a through-car line, by Macon, Atlanta, Birmingham, Memphis, on the bluffs of Mississippi, into the heart of Missouri and out to the plains of Kansas; and still again by another line to St. Louis, by Holly Springs, to Chicago by the Illinois Central, and as far as Sioux City, with but one change of cars.
To the west it stretches an arm through the beautiful Hill Country of Middle Florida, on its own line as far as the Chattahoochee River, where, forming a connection with the Louisville and Nashville, it takes the traveler through Pensacola, Mobile, and straight to New Orleans, without change of cars, whence he can travel directly to Texas, Mexico, California, and the Pacific Coast.
Southward it bends its course like the fingers of a hand, covering the most important portions of Florida to the very edge of the Gulf of Mexico at Cedar Key and Tampa, and almost to the Atlantic Ocean on the east at Orlando and Winter Park. More of Florida can be seen on its line than on any other in the State. Some detail may be desirable. Reverting to its western arm after leaving Jacksonville, and passing westward through some miles of odorous and healthful pine, we come to the older settled regions, formerly the estates of elegant mansions, large plantations, and still of substantial comfort, and waiting to give content to numerous families who shall hereafter appreciate the rather slighted at present, bounties of this portion of Florida.
Lake City- the seat of the Agricultural College of Florida- Madison, and Greenville, Monticello, Tallahassee, and Quincy are all in this beautiful country of hill and dale, and as in general characteristics they are similar, a description of Tallahassee, the capital, will give a fair idea of all. It is not an orange-producing section, though many orange-trees are grown in sheltered localities and near the dwellings; but around the ample residences there is an air of plenty, and under the great oaks of the town avenues there is a picturesque beauty. The glossy leaves of the magnolia trees and the luxuriance of the gardens attest a teeming soil and a beneficent climate, and the peasantry of the country, the fat, healthy, and laughter-loving dark-hued tillers of the soil, traveling along the roads with their many-shaped vehicles and teams of oxen, miles, or horses, or an assortment of all, show that nature generously gives them plenty to eat, and abundance of time for frolic. Tallahassee, the county-seat of Leon and the capital of Florida is 165 miles wets of Jacksonville, and stands upon the summit of a hill 250 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico, from which, only 25 miles distant, it receives exhilarating breezes laden with the odors of the unbroken pine-forests between.
To the north and east and west are other hills, among which lie placid, clear lakes, with banks of varying scenery and rich growths of woodland: Lake Lafayette, on the former estate of Marquis de la Fayette, granted him by the grateful country to
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28   whose service he lent his energies, Lakes Jackson, Hall, and lamonia.
The town itself presents very pleasing features, embowered as it is in a profusion of flowers, and in it and the surrounding country one might be indefinitely detained with agreeable society; by the romantic drives in all directions; by shooting water fowl or fishing and boating on the lakes; visiting the vineyards, for here the grape industry has reached a most successful issue; or the stock-farms, where intelligent care has removed the reproach that fine Jerseys cannot be reared in Florida; or the Murat Place, where for the moment the memory of its former owner, Prince Murat, son of the great Marshal, takes us back to Napoleon's time- and so on. One may also visit Wakulla Springs, about 18 miles distant, where the spring issues forth a calm, broad sheet, walled in on each side by dense, dark, lonesome cypress forests that echo to the cry of wild birds. Down in the depths of its transparent, crystal waters, it is possible to follow with the eye revolving bits of tin, until they are seen resting on the bottom, 180 feet below. In this romantic vicinity is the invisible volcano, where a stream of smoke arises. For all one knows, it may guard the traditional "Fountain of Youth," but whatever mystery it hides, it has guarded its secret well, for none have penetrated it. St. Marks, near the Gulf Coast, is the terminus of a branch of the road from Tallahassee, and is the summer resort of Tallahasseers who go there, and to the near St. Theresa Island, to fish and hunt.
This hill country of middle Florida yields cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, corn, oats, rye, Japanese plums, Japanese persimmons, pears, peaches, grapes, figs, strawberries, melons, sweet potatoes, and all vegetable. It has fish and game in abundance.
Again in Jacksonville, with our faces turned southward, will over the Florida Central and Peninsular, we pass through Lawtey, settled by Northern people, the chief industry being beside orange culture, vegetable and strawberry farming, to the success of which their neat, and often elegant, residences attest. Starke is surrounded by orange groves, peach and pear orchards, vineyards, and strawberry farms. At Waldo, the junction of the Cedar Key division, are many points of attraction for the tourist and prospector. The Old Fort Harlee orange-tree, long known as the largest in the State, stood in this neighborhood. The Kennard grove, peach and fruit orchard, famous the world over, is here, as well as the extensive Keystone fruit farm, and Col. Livingston's beautiful grove. Melrose, distant eleven miles, is reached by a trip through the canals and the beautiful Alto and Santa Fe lakes.
But we will, at this point, diverge to the Cedar Key division, which starts at Waldo and first reaches Fairbanks, one of the healthiest spots in Florida, with some excellent cheap land, awaiting settlers. Several large, compact bodies of virgin pine timber close to transportation await the sawmill.
Gainesville is a gas-lighted city, with a street-railway system and two banks. It is a commercial centre, the location of the United States Land Office for Florida. It has the finest road in the State, consisting of seven miles of continuous rock roads through the surrounding vegetable farms, which are not surpassed for fertility anywhere in the State.
Across Lake Newman is Windsor, considered by many the handsomest town in Florida. IT has the only tub, bucket, and pail factory in the State, and offers extraordinary inducements to newcomers. From here we reach Micanopy, Rochelle, Arredondo, long famous for their rich lands and wealthy truck farmers. A settlement of Friends, or Quakers, with a handsome meeting-house is located at Archer, and near by are the famous Shell Pond nurseries. From Archer runs the "Mineral Branch," which gives access to the phosphate mines- the new
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29   Portland, Standard, Seminole, Baltimore Company's, the Boulder, Early Bird, the New York Company's nearly all of which are shipping, their product being of high grade; and the stations of Williston, Montbrook, Salvator, Standard Junction, Early Bird, and Eagle Mine.
Kanapaha, equi-distant from Archer and Gainesville seven miles, is surrounded b high rolling pine lands, conducive to health. Here can be seen several hundred acres of fine, young orange groves, just coming into beating. The hunting is fine. Bronson, the county seat of Levy country, has some extensive commercial interests.
The "Gulf Hammock" can be reached form here, or more easily from the Otter Creek, where a few miles distant is the Gulf Hammock House of Captain Wingate, where sportsmen from all parts of the world gather each year. Game of all kinds abounds in this whole region. Cedar Key is on an island in the Gulf of Mexico, surrounded by numerous other "keys," or islands of great beauty of location. The climate of this place is most equable and temperate and well repays a visit of some duration. The American, the Faber and the Eagle pencil mills are located here. Fish, oysters, and lumber are the principal articles of export.
The central lake region, nearly 200 feet above the sea level, contains the most famous and fertile lands, perhaps, in the State, Lakes Santa Fe, Geneva, Alto, Newman, Navarre, Levy, Lochloosa, and Orange are all fine bodies of water, and afford remarkable protection from the frost.
Here we have fully entered upon the "Orange Belt." Occasionally we shall see in the midst of the luxuriant vegetation of the hammocks along the road bright clusters of wild oranges. These were formerly utilized in the shape of juice and sent to the manufacturers to be converted into citric acid, but later on, these native trees were grafted to sweet kinds, and became the foundation of the most magnificent groves in the country. Such a one we see after passing Orange Heights and Campville- a center of activity in the manufacture of bricks, tile, pottery, and orange and fruit crates made from native wood; Hawthorne, prolific in the fruits- peach and orange- of a soil rich with shell and marl on a clay basis; along the palmetto lined shore of Lochloosa, crossing an arm of Orange Lake, whose waters are concealed far out by a mantle of reeds and lily pads; and our delighted course is for nearly a mile among 70,000 full-bearing trees. Twelve hundred fine trees had to be removed to make room for the construction of the track. So on through Citra, embowered among live oaks and magnolias, Anthony, in the high, healthy pine land, with its numerous phosphate plants mills, and stores, schools and beautiful churches, and Spring Park, bright with its attractive winter homes, inhabited by New England and Middle States people, with fine young groves growing up around them. Two miles down, on a branch of the road, is the tourist's objective point, the Silver Springs. Into a vast basin 600 feet in diameter and 60 feet deep, the spring issues in one body of clear, pure water that flows away continuously for eight miles in the Silver Spring Run into the romantic Ocklawaha. Daily trips on this are made by the launch Elizabeth, Capt. James Coons.
Ocala and the Semi-Tropical Exposition next demand our attention. Ocala has many elements of solid prosperity. Immense bearing orange groves, wide-spread truck farms, cotton plantations, corn fields and other agricultural industries, make it an important commercial centre. To these have been added large manufacturing interests. It is now also
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30   the centre of great phosphate interests. The city is lighted by electricity, has  street railway system, first-class water works, fire protection and paved streets. The handsomest exhibit of Florida products ever made was at the Semi-Tropical at Ocala in 1888.
From Ocala to Wildwood, and thence on the easterly branch of the road to Orlando, is a succession of villages and towns, from which the traveler has only to stray a little distance to find himself by some beautiful clear water lake, or in the midst of groves and dwellings often tasteful and elegant.
Leesburg and Tavares are among the principal towns. Orlando shares with Ocala, Gainesville, Tallahassee, and Tampa the prominence of being one of the most important and enterprising towns in this section of country. It is one of those remarkable places that many Western towns have grown up almost in a night, as it were, contrary to all expectations.
Beautiful lakes diversify the country in its vicinity, and thrifty orange groves abound. Villas and cottages form cosy winter homes.
The terminus of the Florida Central and Peninsular's southern division is Tampa, famous for its beautiful groves and tropical shade trees. Tampa Bay and harbor are renowned for their fish as for the pleasure sailing and rowing they afford. Tampa appears destined to great commercial importance in the near future; and is just now much talked of as the uniting point of the transcontinental trade with South America.
The mammoth Tampa Hotel, which is under the superb management of Mr. J. H. King, is, of course, the most attractive feature of the place, and is without question the most magnificent and costly tourist hotel in the world. Nine miles from Tampa is the Inn, far out in the bay and built over the water on piling. From this point the line of steamers sail regularly to and from Havana, Cuba (toughing en route each way at Key West). Visitors to that interesting and tropical island will find the Tampa route the most desirable and enjoyable one. Tampa is easily reached from all Northern, Eastern, or Western points by the Southern Ry. in conjunction with the "F C & P."
At Lacochee the Florida Central and Peninsular connects with the Sanford and St. Petersburg Railroad, which runs over one of the most beautiful portions of Florida, along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, Tarpon Springs, Dunedin, Sutherland, Clear Water Harbor, St. Petersburg are all points of resort. This is the region where the "Silver King" of fish, the gamey tarpon, has its haunts and where he may be taken if one has the requisite skill and necessary tackle. After one of thsee magnificent specimens of the finny tribes has been killed, every other kind of fishing loses much of its charm, for it is without question the most exciting experience which ever comes to a man with rod and reel. There are many resorts on Tampa Bay easily accessible by daily steamers from Port Tampa, where the best of fishing may be had. Wild fowl are also very plenty in the numerous inlets.
Florida is in these days easily accessible from all points North, East, South and West via the Southern Ry. and the "F C & P," and tourists will find the accommodations and train service on these lines equal to any in America.
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31   Jacksonville has been called the gateway of Florida, and so it is commercially and geographically, as here all the great railway and steamships lines centre, and from here as a point of radiation all Florida tourist travel begi