|
Page |
Item
I.D. |
Description |
Thumbnail |
| Front and Inside Front Cover |
|
The Land of the Sky and Beyond By Frank Presbrey |

 |
| 1 |
|
Space there is for all to travel, therefore is the world so
wide." The man or woman who loves Nature for Nature's sake, loves
the mountains best. It is their rugged crests which show forth the
temper of the day. They smile in sunshine and frown in storm, and in
the great creases of their rugged faces lie the deep shadows of the
night while yet the noonday sun is high. There is nothing else in
Nature which so inspires one to purer thoughts or so truly marks the
insignificance of man, as the mountains. The baubles and necessities
of life men may buy with money. To the rich may be given the power
to surround themselves with luxuries- the handiwork of man -- and
art, the product of painters' skill; but Nature has spread her
canvas with a gorgeous scheme of coloring, with a depth and grandeur
of background of which the finest paintings ever produced are but
the feeblest imitations, the veriest mockeries. The handiwork of man
may be shut within walls and viewed by but the favored few, but
Nature's beauties are unveiled to all, the rich and the poor alike,
and it is not the touch of gold, but the responsiveness of an
artistic soul, which is the open sesame to their enjoyment. Yet
Nature, prodigal though she may be, has bestowed her brightest
jewels with far from lavish hands. It is but here and there that she
has moulded her choicest gems and left them unveiled for man's
enjoyment. But in no part of the world has she brought into happier
combination a greater variety of lovely scenery than in that portion
of Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee where the Blue Ridge
Mountains have been, by perhaps some mighty subterranean upheaval,
shattered into a half-score of lateral and cross ranges. To be sure
the White Mountains have their Washington, the Adirondacks their
Marcy, but one may stand in Asheville and on any fair day count more
than a score of mountain peaks higher than these. |
 |
| 2 |
|
Prof. J.A. Holmes, the eminent geologist, is authority for the
statement that there are in Western North Carolina forty-three
distinct mountains, 6,000 feet and upward in altitude, or higher
than Mount Washington; and over eighty which exceed 5,000 and nearly
approximate 6,000, while the peaks exceeding 4,000 feet are
innumerable. They are beautiful mountains, too; shapely, and with
lines as graceful as those of a model, they raise their proud heads
far above the fertile valleys which lie at their feet. Clothed to
their very summits with a most magnificent deciduous forest which
Professor Fernow declares the finest on the continent, they form a
picture of natural beauty and grandeur, the equal of which would be
difficult to find in any land. There are here and there, however,
stupendous precipices, as for instance on old Whiteside and Caesar's
Head, the former presenting a solid, almost perpendicular wall of
rock 1,800 in height. But these instances are rare, the general
contour being one of grace and beauty. The noble chain, which,
taking its beginning in the Highlands of Canada, traces its rugged
course down across New Hampshire and Vermont, Eastern New York,
Pennsylvania and Virginia, is known according to the locality as the
Green, White, Adirondack, Alleghany or Blue Ridge Mountains; but it
grows in majesty as it stretches southward, attaining in Western
North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee by far its greatest altitude
and massiveness. Here, too, it has spread into a myriad of lateral
ranges like the bursting of a rocket, sending its offshoots into
South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, where they merge into the
lowlands are are lost to view.
It is in the very heart of these mountainous regions, at an average
altitude of nearly twenty-five hundred feet above the sea, that
Nature has reserved her most harming sanatorium, her "Garden
of the Gods," the Asheville plateau. This is "The Land of the Sky,"
the spot where human health and human happiness are in sweet accord,
where the blue azure touches lightly the towering summits of lofty
mountains, where the purest of crystal water gushes forth from the
hidden springs of an untainted soil, where malaria is unknown and
contagion unfeared. Here, too, Nature has arrayed herself in her
choicest and most beautiful vestments, and by her smiles and softest
touches inspires hope in the invalid and ambition in the strong.
Here, as nowhere else, are to be found in greatest perfection, ideal
climatic conditions, for neither in summer nor winter are there
extremes in temperature, the seasons being marked by the calendar
rather than by the weather. The temperature maps prepared by the
National Government show that there is formed by the peculiar
topographical conditions existing on the Asheville plateau, the
ideal thermal belt of America.
In the "Good old days" of our forefathers the trip to the Asheville
plateau was made after the fashion of the time in lumbering old
state coaches- a wearisome trip which only the hardy could
undertake. Now, whether from North, West, or South, the approach is
one not only of convenience but of positive luxury. |
 |
| 3 |
|
The Southern Railway, that superb and colossal corporation whose
tracks grid-iron the region south of Washington, has brought
Asheville and its contiguous region to within a short distance of
New York, for indeed the traveler may leave the metropolis after the
day is nearly done and be transported by their magnificent
"Southwest Limited" to Asheville about noon the next day.
And what a ride!--down past the Nation's capital, across the Old
Dominion, Virginia, whose almost every inch has been consecrated to
history by the blood of contending armies, and entering North
Carolina "where armies ' ceaseless tread" wore broad paths in the
fertile soil a generation ago. At Salisbury the Asheville train
leaves the main stem, which continues on to Atlanta, and, like the
"Course of Empire," wends its way to the westward. At Old fort a
brief stop is made to attach the second or pilot engine, before
giving battle to the giant mountains which, stretching directly
across the path, challenge the mighty power of steam. It is a battle
royal when the ponderous locomotives begin the ascent, the second in
point of grade in all America, a struggle in which the strength of
Nature is pitted against the inventions of man. With throttles wide
open and the steam-gauges showing their maximum the ascent begins.
Up and up creeps the train, slowly and surely |
 |
| 4 |
|
-winding in and out, like the tracings of a huge serpent,
passing the colossal piles of granite between which the sparkling
Catawba River dashes merrily on its race from mountain to sea, then
around the face of a gigantic wall of rock, over chasms so deep as
to make one dizzy, and again clinging to the very edge of the
mountain-side. Below one-far below--is the peaceful valley, walled
in on the opposite side by the mountains, whose slopes are clothed
to the very dome with balsams and giant pines, interspersed with
huge masses of rhododendron and azaleas near the valley's line.
Beyond Round Knob, where a brief stop is made, the ascent becomes
bolder and more tortuous. Around and around the great train creeps,
doubting on itself several times, as if looking for some crevice
through which it might dodge and evade the summit. So tortuous has
been its movements that from one point the track below over which
the train has come may be seen on fourteen different grades. The sun
beams into the windows on one side of the car, and almost before the
train has measured its length, it is shining in those opposite, and
if Brother Jasper should make the trip he would ever after maintain
that "De sun do move, suh."
"I have traveled two continents," said a companion of the writer on
his recent trip, "and have never seen from car window a more
magnificent spectacle." As the summit is reached, the eye takes in
range after range of mountains, following one after the other like
the giant waves of old ocean racing for the beach. Silvery
waterfalls come tumbling down the mountain-sides so close as to
almost dampen the train with their spray, and whichever way the eye
may turn a new and entrancing scene of mingled grandeur and
loveliness greets it.
At last the great tunnel which pierces the summit is reached, and
the descent begins. The watershed of the Atlantic is left and that
of the Gulf of Mexico entered. The panorama has been shifted. The
ruggedness fades and yields its sway to the pastoral, where one
hears the
"Humming of bees in
the heather bells
And bleatings in the
distant dells."
Just where the beautiful Swannanoa, "Nymph of Beauty," one of the
loveliest of mountain streams, whose course the train follows,
merges into the picturesque and historic French Broad, is Asheville.
There is but one railway reaching Asheville, whether one comes from
the West via Knoxville, the North via Washington, the
Southwest via Atlanta, or Florida and the Southwest via Columbia,
and that is by the Southern Railway.
In the recognition of the old Richmond Terminal system of railroad
lines into the new Southern Railway Company, a difficult |
 |
| 5 |
|
and important task was accomplished with remarkable celerity and
efficiency. The steady development of this extensive and complicated
scheme proceeded almost unchecked through the entire period of
financial depression, and to-day the South possesses a great railway
system of 4,791 miles of lines, nearly all of which is absolutely
owned by one corporation, of which Mr. Samuel Spencer is president .
No other railroad in the country, operated under a single charter,
has so great a mileage.
About thirty different roads have been merged into the Southern
Railway Company, the principal ones being the Richmond and Danville
and the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia systems. As a map will
show, the lines of this great system extend from Washington, through
Danville, Charlotte, Atlanta, and Birmingham, to Greenville, on the
Mississippi River, with converging lines from Richmond to Danville;
from Goldsboro, through Raleigh to Greensboro; and diverging from
Salisbury through Asheville, Hot Springs, and Knoxville to
Chattanooga: also from Charlotte to Columbia, Augusta and Aiken,
uniting at Columbia with the Florida Central and Peninsular
Railroad, forming a through line to Savannah, Jacksonville and all
Florida, with a transverse line starting at Bristol, Tenn.; and
extending through Knoxville, Chattanooga, Atlanta and Macon, Ga. to
Brunswick, Ga., uniting again at Everett, Ga., with the Florida
Central and Peninsular Railroad. There is also a diverging line from
Rome, Ga., through Anniston, Ala., and Selma to Meridian, Miss., and
with various to her lateral lines. The "Washington and Southwestern
Vestibuled Limited," a superb train of Pullman drawing-room sleeping
and dining cars, runs daily between New York and New Orleans via the
Southern Railway (Piedmont Air Line) in conjunction with the
Pennsylvania Railroad on the North, and the "L & N" on the South. It
also carries through Pullmans between New York, Asheville and Hot
Springs, The "Cincinnati and Florida Vestibule Limited," a beautiful
train, runs daily between Cincinnati and Jacksonville, in
conjunction with the "Q & C" route and Florida Central and
Peninsular RR. Through car service is also maintained between
Jacksonville, Fla., and Kansas City, |
 |
| 6 |
|
Mo., via Atlanta and Birmingham; also between Jacksonville
and St. Louis, via same route. There is a perfectly appointed
through car service between New York, Asheville and Hot Springs, and
between Louisville, Cincinnati and Asheville, and between Asheville,
Savannah and Jacksonville.
It is by this line that the "new York and Florida Short Line
Limited," a veritable clubhouse on wheels, runs daily, leaving New
York at 3:20 P.M., and reaching Jacksonville and St. Augustine early
the following evening.
In laying out the Southern Railway system the aim has been to cover
as much of the South, east of the Mississippi River, as possible.
The lines penetrate into the richest mineral regions, agricultural
regions, and timber territory. The Kentucky and Tennessee
coal-fields and the Alabama coal-fields are reached by numerous
branch lines. All of the great iron-mining and manufacturing
localities are embraced in the Southern's railway lines. There is
scarcely a prominent cotton-growing locality of importance that is
not reached, and cotton mills are thickly sprinkled along all the
principal arms of the system. The best portions of the
tobacco-growing and the timber regions are tapped by these lines,
and the branches of road which traverse the Southeastern States
command a large share of fruit and garden truck business.
The isothermal line which passes through Asheville, the commercial
and tourist center of the "Land of the Sky," as continued is drawn
just south of San Francisco, California, north of Salt Lake City,
Utah, south of St. Louis, through Lisbon and Madrid, Marsilles,
Rome, Naples, and south of Constantinople. It should not be inferred
that there are no variations in climate on the Asheville plateau,
for indeed there are, and the best of hygienic results are attained
in a country where there are changes, if, like those here, they are
free from the health-destroying extremes of both North and South.
But the climate of Asheville, measured by the year rather than
the day, isc harming. The mean temperature for a period covering a
score of years has been 59 degrees, just one-half degree from that
of the entire Western hemisphere. The air, however, is dry, and even
on the coldest days there is an entire absence of that quality which
in the North is called "piercing," and which penetrates to the very
bone marrow. Snow, while not an unknown feature of Asheville winter
life, falls only occasionally and lasts but a few days at longest.
The brightest of sunshine predominates all through the winter,
making out-door exercise, riding or driving and tennis or golf
playing a pleasure. The diurnal ranges of the thermometer are also
far less than at many of the famed health-resorts. The average
winter temperature of Asheville is several degrees higher than that
of Geneva, Switzerland, and Turin, Italy, and fourteen degrees
warmer than Davos in the Swiss Alps, where thousands of
patients are sent each year for pulmonary troubles by the
Continental physicians. The oldest medical practitioner in Western
North Carolina told the writer recently that during an
extensive practice in this country, covering nearly forty years, he
had never found |
 |
| 7 |
|
a single case of local pulmonary consumption. He also called
attention to the figures published in the disease charts of the
United States Census, which showed that while deaths from pulmonary
troubles in northern New England averaged two hundred and fifty out
of every thousand, in Minnesota and California one hundred and
fifty, in Kentucky and Western Tennessee over one hundred, the
average number in Western North Carolina was but thirty. This
percentage, too, was largely made up from the deaths among those who
had come there with well-developed cases of consumption--too late to
be benefited by the climatic cure, which would surely have saved
them had they com eat the time the initial signs of the disease
showed themselves.
The visitor to this region notices at once the electrical bracing
air. "Why, I feel as if I was breathing champagne," exclaimed a
prominent statesman to the writer during a recent visit. "And does
it never rain here?" he asked. "Oh, yes," was the reply, volunteered
by a third member of the group; "but our well-kept statistics show
that we have an |
 |
| 8 |
|
average of nearly three hundred days a year when the sun shines
all day, and there were only eleven last year without any sunshine.
There is, too, so little humidity even in the winter months, that it
is no unusual thing for ladies to ramble through the woods with
little risk to health as they would have in June. Another fact," Our
mentor continued, "which makes every one 'brace up' the moment they
get to Asheville is not generally understood. It is the influence of
altitude on vitality. Now physiologists tell us that the heart
pressure form within is twelve and a half pounds to the square inch
at any altitude is increased. This is what produces 'that tired
feeling' in lower altitudes, a thing unknown on the Asheville
plateau, which, with its altitude of twenty-three hundred feet, has
an atmospheric pressure of just twelve and three-quarter pounds,
thus allowing the heart and lungs to perform their functions with
the least expense of force and vitality, and under conditions which
are absolutely normal."
Asheville is a charming little city nestling in the very bosom of
the everlasting hills. It has an active, prosperous population of
about twelve thousand, handsome hotels, substantial banks, business
blocks and churches, and many beautiful and modern private
residences, in which will be found all the cultured refinement of
the greater social centres. It has a most progressive daily, The
Citizen, which, under the editorship of Mr. Frank Robinson, is
ever alive to Asheville's interests. Its school system ranks among
the first in the South, and the school buildings are modern
structure of brick, with all educational conveniences and improved
sanitary appliances. Its streets are well paved- largely in asphalt-
lighted with electricity, and it has an excellent system of electric
street-railroads. Altogether it is a modern, bustling, young city,
in which the material and social conditions are far in advance of
the average city of its size, whether North or South.
Asheville has been termed the Saratoga of the South, but this is
hardly just, for there is not a single point in which comparison of
natural advantages can be made which would not be in Asheville's
favor. Climate, scenery, health, and atmospheric conditions are
incomparably better at Asheville. It is true that in certain
respects there is a similarity, for during the summer months the
great hospitable hotels of Asheville and its numerous
boarding-houses are filled to overflowing with guests from all over
the Union, who find the climate delightful, the social activities on
a par with the best summer resorts in the country, and opportunities
for riding or driving miles over perfect mountain roads and among
scenes of magnificence and grandeur. No sooner have the summer
visitors departed, than the advance guard of guests from the North
puts in its appearance- a forerunner of the thousands who for
pleasure, or health, or both, make their home in Asheville for a
greater or shorter period |
 |
| 9 |
|
during the winter months. The varied attractions of Asheville
and the beautiful plateau which bears its name have brought to it as
residents many men of wealth and culture, who have erected beautiful
homes and are living delightfully surrounded by many of the customs
and pleasures of the old English manor houses. In no section of
America is there today such superb opportunities for sport as may be
had in Western North Carolina. It is the great centre for quail
shooting, and each year the Field Trials of the Eastern Association
are held here. A bag of one hundred quail is a fair average for a
day's sport for two gentlemen. So famous has this region become
among sportsmen that the Southern Railway has inaugurated a special
service of hunting cars which may be chartered by private parties by
the day or week. The streams, especially on the Murphy and
Spartanburg branches, are full of trout, and in the forests the
deer, wild turkey and bear hunting so far eclipses anything east of
the Rockies that a comparison would be absurd. It is a paradise
where sportsmen may spend a day, a month, or a season, and be
certain of the best of sport among most delightful scenes and in a
region where every breath is one of health and joy. Among those
gentlemen who have already erected or are now erecting homes for
themselves near Asheville is Mr. George W. Vanderbilt, who, after
having travelled the world over, decided upon this region as being
the most beautiful of all he had ever seen. Here he began, several
years ago, the purchasing of an estate and the erection of a noble
mansion which when completed will far eclipse in point of expense,
size, and elegance any private establishment in America. It stands
on a noble eminence overlooking the picturesque and lovely valley of
the French Broad, whose tortuous course may be followed for miles by
its silvery tracings between the emerald of its banks. On ever side
rise hill upon hill and mountain upon mountain, with many a
Heaven-aspiring peak, chief among them being Pisgah, with its sharp,
symmetrical cone; and beyond, in long extended vistas, the lofty
summits of the Balsam Mountains, more than six thousand feet in
height. Down to the right, toward the north, the eye follows the
valley, backed by its never absent mountains, until far away they
blend in misty distance with the Great Smokies. Then sweeping to the
northeast, the valley of the Swannanoa spreads itself in all its
placid beauty at the foot of its ever present guardian mountains,
which recede in lofty majesty until they erect themselves in all the
grandeur of the unrivalled Black Mountain chain. To the |
 |
| 10 |
|
right the valley is flanked with the high and graceful Swannanoa
Mountain, and in the far distance the Swannanoa Gap, through which
the railroad has invaded Western North Carolina. Toward the south,
where all is gentle, peaceful, and in charming color, the mountains
withdraw to a distance leaving an open country dotted with farms,
until far away the hazy curtain made by the indistinct forms of the
Blue Ridge along the South Carolina border is drawn upon the scene.
It is given to but few men to have unbounded wealth, but it is not
strange that Mr. Vanderbilt, with his opportunities, when he gazed
upon this scene of transcendent loveliness, should have said: "Here
will I erect a mansion which shall emphasize the work of man as this
spot has the work of God." To describe what Mr. Vanderbilt has done
toward accomplishing that end would take many page. The figures
would dazzle the reader and the veracity of the writer would be
challenged. But a few of the most salient facts are interesting. Mr.
Vanderbilt has in his private park somewhat over 180 square miles.
He may ride thirty-five miles in a straight line from his chateau
without reaching the boundary of his possessions. He may drive as
many mils over roads as scientifically made and as smooth as the
boulevards of Central Park. He may hunt in his game preserve of
twenty thousand acres, through which hundreds of deer will roam, or
may fish in well-stocked streams which are his from the tiny spring
on the mountain-top until they merge into the French Broad. His
private nurseries, from which several million choice trees, plants,
and shrubs are transplanted each year, are the largest in the world,
and a railroad has been built from Asheville to his chateau (three
miles) to transport the hundreds of workmen employed and the
material used. He has already expended something like $4,000,000 on
the castle and the surrounding grounds, and it is estimated that it
will cost about $6,000,000 to develop fully his plans. Twelve
thousand dollars are distrusted by him among the citizens of
Asheville every week in the way of salaries and other expenses in
connection with his establishment.
The residence is 300 feet by 192, with long walled courts and
stables in addition, yet a part of the general structure. A detailed
account of it would tax the descriptive powers of an architect. It
is built of stone, and three hundred stone-cutters and masons have
been steadily at work for over three years, and completion is yet a
year away. Mr. Frederick Law Olmstead, who laid out Central Park and
more lately the World's Fair grounds at Chicago, has been in charge
of the landscape gardening, which embraces the entire estate. Sunken
gardens and greenhouses on which fortunes have been spent, a tennis
court whose huge retaining wall, 16 feet thick and 40 feet high, is
one of the finest pieces of masonry in this country, a bowling green
200 feet wide and 700 long, entirely surrounded by a hand-carve
granite balustrade, and innumerable other features form a tout
ensemble which surpasses anything ever dreamed of heretofore in
America. Visitors to Asheville ask to have the Vanderbilt estate
pointed out to them almost before they leave the train at the
station. The young millionaire is not at all exclusive or selfish
with his belongings, but permits visitors to drive through his
grounds and inspect his residence under reasonable conditions.
|
 |
| 11 |
|
Few people realize that North Carolina is more than 500 miles in
length, of that if New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts,
Connecticut, Rhode Island, Delaware, and Jew Jersey were made into
one State, it would still lack over 5,000 square miles of being as
large as North Carolina. Fifty-nine percent of its surface is
forest, and it combines within its limits a greater variety of
climate than any State in the Union except California, being
semi-tropical along the sea and high and mountainous in the Western
portion. It is rich in minerals as well as timber, and has not only
a competent State Board of Agriculture but a Geographical Survey of
National fame which has, through its able reports on the resources
of North Carolina, brought several million dollars into the State
for investment, and has saved the citizens of the State many times
what it has cost for its support, by preventing through its reports
many useless investments. North Carolina is also rich in
agricultural resources, and some of the finest plantations in the
South are in this noble commonwealth. It is doubtful if anywhere a
more perfect example of the modern farm could be found than that of
Col. Frank Coxe. It is situated in Polk County, lies along the
famous Green River, and is a part of that celebrated bottom land
known all over North and South Carolina as "Egypt." Colonel Foxe has
improved it year after year until it has now reached the highest
stage of perfection. The residence is of the pure colonial type, and
upward of a hundred years old, and about it are the thousands of
broad acres under scientific and intelligent cultivation.
Living back in the utter most fastnesses of the mountains, remote
from all except those of their own kind, there still dwell many "Moonshiners"--a
characteristic class of people-unlike any other humans except
themselves. The moonshiner naturally feels that he has as much right
to boil his fruit or grain into spirits as the farmer has to cook
hominy in his own kettles, but the law places a negative upon his
claim. So the mountain chemist is given to hiding, and, at times,
when hunted too persistently, to shooting his pursuers. This is all
wrong, because unlawful, but is hard to instruct the gray matter of
his brain on such subjects. It is grewsome to see these lank,
leathery, unkempt, semi-barbarous brethren brought into court, with
manacles on their limbs, and summarily consigned to doleful exile in
distant dungeons. You will, when you see them and their wives and
their progeny, wonder how such a country can produce such specimens
of humanity, but it is easily understood when explanation is at
hand. In that region are reared the best of cattle, sheep, poultry,
and fruits, but the moonshiner disdains them. He prefers, or habit
and poverty compel him to prefer, soggy hot biscuit, vile
coffee, cadaverous, greasy bacon, assassinated in a frying pan. He
drinks too much of his own fiery decoction and too little of the
salubrious water that leaps, gushes and sparkles on every
hand. If one could capture young moonshiner girls and boys, feed
them on civilized diet, girdle them with proper comfort, garment
them decently, treat them amiably and educate them wholesomely, the
transformation would be thorough, startling, and supreme. It would
be an object-lesson conveying its own moral, and this would be the
evolution of many Esmeraldas off the mimic stage, and many a study,
comely, valiant, intellectual man.
The spur of the Southern Railway running southwest from Asheville to
Murphy, a distance of 120 miles, is famous as one of the most daring
pieces of railroad engineering in this country. During almost
the entire length of the road the scenery is romantically wild, and
presents not only very many charming views, but offers to the
sportsman a prefect paradise. The streams are full of trout, and
through the vast forests roam deer, bear, and wild turkeys. The
country penetrated by this line is rich in talc, mineral paint,
marble, kaolin, and considerable gold has been washed out. The road
creeps around the wild gorge of the Natahala River, so deep that the
rays of the sun only shine upon the surface of the river for an |
 |
| 12 |
|
hour a day. Here is a waterfall which makes a clear plunge of
nearly 200 feet; there, a sublime vista where the Little Tennessee
has cut its way through the rocky barriers which stemmed its course;
everywhere, views which are entrancing and sublime. It is a noble
region in which Nature has uplifted her mighty monuments, and with a
setting of rare loveliness. Waynesville, named in honor of "Mad
Anthony" Wayne, is 30 miles from Asheville, and is the highest
railroad town east of Colorado .It is the commercial centre of the
far-famed Richland Valley, and is located at the foot of the Balsam
Mountains. It has a superb water-power, and is a progressive,
prosperous young city with many advantages. It has fine schools and
churches, and there is not a bar-room within its limits. The region
about Waynesville is one of the great fertility, and is noted for
the superior quality of the tobacco raised. It is also a great grain
and vegetable region, and its apples are not surpassed anywhere for
flavor. It has an excellent hotel, and offers many inducements to
either the casual visitor or home-seeker. At Andrews City, near
Murphy, the sportsman will find most comfortable accommodations at
the hospitable hotel of Mr. S. E. Bryson, who is a walking
encyclopedia on that whole region, and on e of the most genial hosts
as well.
Between Asheville and Spartanburg there is much notable scenery,
especially at Tryon and in the country immediately adjacent. Tryon
is 40 miles south of Asheville. It is a beautiful little village,
with Alps-like surroundings. Its population is largely made up of
health-seekers from every part of the country. The almost
perpendicular wall of mountains, 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, curved
like a horseshoe to the north and west of the village, effectively
shuts out all the colder winds, while the open country to the
south gives the sun a full opportunity to not only temper the air by
direct rays, but by radiation from the mountain sides. The
thermometer at Tryon seldom goes much below the freezing point, and
snow is a rarity-- and this at an altitude of over 1,500 feet. About
Tryon are beautiful roads, and the mountains in the neighborhood
offer excellent opportunities for tramping. There is also an
excellent hotel at Tryon. Visitors at Asheville can make excursions
to Tryon comfortably, leaving Asheville in the morning and
return in the evening. |
 |
| 13 |
|
The Battery Park Hotel is so closely associated with Asheville
that the names are almost synonymous. It derives its name from its
being located on a spot of historical interest, for it was at the
very point where the hotel now stands that the Confederates planted
a battery of artillery for the defense of the town. The old
breastworks still remain, but the grim messengers of death have
given place to flowers, and the happy voices of children are heard
from the old ramparts instead of the roar of artillery. Crowning as
it does the summit of a noble eminence in the centre of a lovely
private park of twenty-five acres, and surrounded by a grove of
ancient oaks, it presents a most inviting and picturesque
appearance, and stands boldly in view for miles in almost any
direction. It is scarcely a stone's throw from the public square of
Asheville, yet is 125 feet above it and so secluded in its own
environments that the sojourner within its hospitable walls may
find, if he desires it, perfect restfulness and repose. The
structure is modern, architecturally beautiful, and singularly free
form the stilted conventionalities of the usual hotel. The frontage
measures 475 feet, yet it is so broken with broad porches, gables,
oriel and bow windows that the dimensions deceive the eye. The
porches, which are a great feature because out-of-door life is so
attractive in Asheville, are broad and almost never-ending. During
the warmer seasons they are fringed with hanging and stationary
boxes of flowers, and in the winter enclosed in glass, thus
affording invalids opportunities for sun-baths and long walks
without leaving the house. From these extensive verandas the most
magnificent panorama of mountain views is spread before the vision.
The scenes change with the hours, for the rosy lights of morning,
the glare of noonday, and the deepening shadows of the evening give
each in their turn a new and varied charm to the view. To the left
may be seen in full view the noble chateau being erected by Mr.
Vanderbilt, and directly in front as a grand, centre-piece of the
scene stands old Pisgah, with its sentinels on either side, while
down below in the near foreground are the pretty sheets and homes of
Asheville. Within the Battery Park all is comfort and elegance. The
spacious entrance hall, in which the office occupies a corner, is a
picture of attractiveness with its massive fireplace, broad and
graceful stairway, and easy chairs. Here every evening is a
brilliant gathering of guests, who in little groups-the ladies with
their fancy work and gentlemen with their cigars- pass the hours in
informal sociability, lending a pleasuring and congenial atmosphere,
an unknown feature in many of the great hostelries. On many evenings
there are special entertainments in the great ball-room-- the
handsomest of any resort in the country--for it is fully equipped
with a stage and all the furnishings. No detail |
 |
| 14 |
|
has been omitted to make the Battery Park a home in every
sense of that much-abused world. The rooms are all large, light, and
cheerful, handsomely furnished, steam-heated, many having open
fireplaces, and one private porcelain baths. There are also
bowling-alleys, billiard-rooms for both ladies and gentlemen, a
shooting-gallery, and all the accessories for popular amusement for
old and young. Mr. E.P. McKissick, the manager of the Battery Park,
is a gentleman whose genial personality and all-round good
fellowship has given him a reputation as an idea host which has
reached far beyond the limits of North Carolina. He has the rare
faculty, to a wonderful degree, of not only managing the practical
part of the business with consummate skill, but of making visitors
feel from the moment they enter the house that they are his personal
guests. He has surrounded himself with most competent assistants,
and the chef in charge of the cuisine this season has been at the
Alcazar at St. Augustine and Hotel Champlain for several years. It
is needless to add that the table and service are up to the highest
standard in every particular.
One of the enjoyable and popular features of the Battery Park is the
Swannanoa Hunt Club, which affords an added pleasure to those who
enjoy out-door sport. The charming little clubhouse occupies a
prominent place on the lawn of the hotel adjoining the
conservatories. The Hunt Club, of which Dr. S.W. Battle, of
Asheville, is president, and Mr. Henry M. Steele, of Baltimore, is
secretary, is the "swell" feature socially of the city, the leading
people being members, and its balls, which are held at the Battery
Park, are brilliant affairs, many guests coming from New York and
other Northern cities to attend them. The club has two houses, the
one appearing in the illustration and one near the Sulphur Springs,
about four miles from the city; so situated as to allow from its
verandas a following view of the hunt for many miles. At the home
club the cuisine will be under the charge of the chef of the hotel,
but Manager McKissick, who is himself an artist with the
chafing dish, presides at many of the informal feasts, which are
memorable occasions to all who attend them. The club-houses are
artistically and appropriately furnished, the walls being adorned
with mementos of the chase and trappings and pictures of the hunt,
special rooms being fitted up for ladies who ride in or enjoy the
chase. Guests of the Battery Park are made welcome at the club as
visiting members, with corresponding privileges. For those who do
not care for fox-hunting, the stables of the hotel provide an ample
supply of either saddle or driving horses, and as out-of-door
exercise is exceedingly popular and practical at Asheville, and the
roads for miles about are so beautiful, there is every opportunity
for pleasure in this line. |
 |
| 15 |
|
A few years ago a party of Northern capitalists, attracted by
the beauties of Asheville, purchased a tract of over 160 acres
upon the sunny southern slope of Beaumont Mountain, within the
limits of Asheville, and erected upon it the beautiful Kenilworth
Inn, a massive structure, which from any point of view is
picturesque from without and inviting and home-like from within. Its
graceful towers, castellated porte-cochere and many gables give it a
romantic appearance which is not dispelled by the surroundings. The
park of which it is a fitting centre is heavily wooded with a forest
of oak and odorous pines, with the exception of that portion in
front of the house, which is an unbroken lawn of twenty acres. As
the train from the North approaches Baltimore, the Kenilworth
literally "bursts upon view" in all the magnificence of its
attractive architecture and location. The train stops at Biltmore,
which adjoins on one side the Kenilworth Park and on the other Mr.
George Vanderbilt's possessions. Here the passengers leave the train
and after a short ride in the hotel's easy conveyances over the
well-made road which zigzags up the mountain-side the alight at the
handsome entrance, within which all is life, brilliancy. and gayety.
The interior appointments of the Kenilworth are not only exceedingly
comfortable but elegant. The broad oak staircase, with its massive
hand-carved newel posts, the heavily raftered ceilings in the same
wood, and the large fireplace are attractive features of the
entrance hall. Broad halls extend from either side, into which open
the large, exquisitely furnished parlors, the beautiful music room,
and ladies' writing and billiard rooms. All the rooms of the entire
lower floor open into each other in such a way as to give a light,
cheerful, and home-like atmosphere. The dining-room, which is
unusually comfortable and luxurious in its furnishings, is lighted
by large windows on two sides, and instead of being one large room
is a series of smaller ones, connecting in such a way as to permit
of its being made larger or smaller as the exigencies require. The
sleeping rooms of the Kenilworth are models of comfort. Every room
has a large closet, and many of them baths. The entire house is
steam-heated and electric-lighted. From all of the rooms may
be had most magnificent views, but those from the sun parlors which
are in the large tower are simply beyond description. In one of
these Miss a Becket has established her studio, because, as this
charming and famous artist says, it is the most beautiful spot she
knows of. The social life at the Kenilworth is as fascinating as its
surroundings. One of the finest of orchestras gives morning and
afternoon concerts, and plays each evening for dancing. The stables
are full of the best of horses, and riding and driving over the
beautiful mountain roads afford unlimited pleasure and
entertainment. In Mr. Lyman Rhoades, the proprietor, is emphasized
the expression that a good hotel man, like the poet, is born not
made. He has had long years of experience, and under his management
the Kenilworth is admirably conducted, the cuisine kept at a high
degree of excellence, and the guests made to feel that nothing is
being or will be omitted which may add to their comfort or
enjoyment. |
 |
| 16 |
|
The journey down the valley of the French Broad from Asheville
to Hot Springs is one which ever remains in the memory of him who
takes it. The distance is short, scarcely forty miles, but there is
not the smallest portion of it devoid of picturesque interest. It
is, in fact, generally conceded by all extensive travelers that it
is one of the loveliest trips in America, and no visitor to Western
North Carolina should miss taking it. For the entire distance the
Southern Railroad hugs close to the river, which dashes merrily over
boulders as it cuts its way through the wild gorges of the
mountains. here and there are long stretches of placid water, as if
the river, tired by its battling, was resting before making another
mad rush down its tortuous race to the sea. As it nears Hot Springs
the mountains become bolder and hem it in closer and closer, as if
by common resolve to block its way, but with one mighty curve it
leaps into the lovely Hot Springs Valley, and merrily, as if
rejoicing in having outwitted the mighty barriers, winds its way
along fertile fields, almost encircling the beautiful Mountain Park
Hotel, and then crosses the Tennessee line six miles beyond, at
Paint Rock, which in itself is one of the most massive natural
monuments on the globe. This rock rises precipitately from the river
level several hundred feet, and its rough and weather beaten face is
covered with Indian hieroglyphics- said to be the vestiges of an
inedible paint with which the surface of the rock was coated by the
aborigines at some indefinite period between the creation and the
Civil War.
At Hot Springs the visitor will find the Mountain Park Hotel an
ideal place for rest or recuperation. The Springs are famous and
their efficacy especially in cases of stubborn rheumatism or gout is
wonderful. The bathing facilities are unexcelled. There are sixteen
separate pools, 9X16, lined and floored, with polished marble. The
waters possess the same qualities as the baths at Ems and
Wiesbaden, Germany, and the Hot Springs of Arkansas, while their
accessibility and elegance, together with the skill with which they
are administered by the attendant physicians, makes them far more
desirable. The hotel accommodates five hundred guests and is under
the able management of Messrs. Doolittle and Bowden, formerly of
Richfield Springs. There is a daily Pullman service without charge
between New York and Hot Springs via the Pennsylvania and Southern
Railway, and also between Cincinnati and the Hot Springs.
Passengers leaving New York at 4:30 in the afternoon reach the
Springs before dark the next day.
Knoxville is situated nearly in the centre of the East Tennessee
Valley- a valley larger in area than the state of Massachusetts,
upon gently-sloping hills on the banks of the Tennessee River, in
full view of the highest peaks of the Appalachian Mountains, forty
miles southward, and within thirty miles of 51,000 square miles of
coal formations- the bituminous coal fields of Tennessee.
Immediately around the city is one vast storehouses of hard-wood
timbers, valuable minerals, and the most beautiful and durable
marbles and building stones in the South. The City was founded in
1792, and named in honor of General Knox, first Secretary of War of
the United States. The population is about 45,000, and the city
trade, wholesale, retail, and manufacturing, amounts to $50,000,000
annually, there being 200 manufacturers. The offices and shops of
the Southern Railway, Western system, are in Knoxville, which is
also a terminal point of several short roads. |
 |
| 17 |
|
The visitor finds here all the advantages and improvements of a
modern city- well-paved streets, electric cars, extensive sewer
system. It is a city of schools and churches, and the University of
Tennessee, the Tennessee School for the Deaf and Dumb, and the
asylum for the insane, are located here.
The Imperial Hotel, to which all visitors to Knoxville who enjoy the
comforts of life will stop, is a delightful house, beautifully
furnished and admirably managed by Mr. R.W. Farr, who is a
Philadelphian with long experience in the hotel business. It is
thoroughly modern, and from its beautiful dining-room on the top
floor a broad bird's eye view of Knoxville and the fertile Tennessee
Valley may be enjoyed. the cuisine is above criticism, and as the
markets of Knoxville are proverbially good, the tables of the
Imperial are abundantly supplied with an unusually varied assortment
of fruits, vegetables and meats. The furnishings of the house are
new and the appointments equal to those in best of the metropolitan
hostelries. The Imperial can be unreservedly recommended.
Tate Springs, which may be easily reached from Knoxville, is in the
centre of a glorious country, where "health and happiness go hand in
hand." It has been said of this spring: "While it does not claim to
be a consecrated spring, imparting to those who drink of its waters
the vigor and bloom of perpetual youth, it is asserted that it has
no superior. Whether there is another like it, or equal to it, are
questions upon which it would be invidious to express an opinion;
but they are questions which have been negatively answered by
hundreds of relieved and recuperated invalids in every part of the
land." But since this was said, a wider experience and a more
thorough test have removed all room of doubt, and this is not
conceded to be the best medical water in America. The salutary
effects which its use superinduces on the animal economy are truly
wonderful. Nature's own remedy-compound and laborated we know not
how- its healing qualities are such that no art can equal them; and
if nature herself has anywhere made such another provision for the
relief of morbid, physical, and mental action, it has not yet been
discovered. Such is the onion of medical men of highest culture and
most extensive practical observation; and, what is of more value, of
thousands who have given it the test of personal experience, and
thereby obtained relief from their afflictions- relief that they had
heretofore sought in vain. There are two fine hotels and
twenty four cottages at Tate Springs. Mr. Thomas Tomlinson is owner
and proprietor. the large hotel remains open all the year around.
One of the handsomest private cottages is owned and occupied each
season by Major C. H. Hudson, General Manager of the Western System
of the Southern Railway. Many of the best-known people in the
country are to be found at this beautiful and healthful resort, and
those who cannot personally visit the springs may procure the water,
as it is being shipped daily in great quantities; a letter addressed
to Mr. Tomlinson at Tate Springs, Tenn., who will bring all the
information as to the analysis of the water and its curative
properties.
The tourist in this region, even if he has but a day at his
disposal, should under no circumstances fail to visit Roan Mountain.
Unique in position, as "the highest human habitation East of the
Rocky Mountains," Cloudland on the summit of Roan Mountain presents
to the eye a marvelous panorama of field and forest, mountain and
valley, almost overwhelming at first sight from its vastness, but
growing in beauty and attractiveness every day, as one becomes more
familiar with it. Its horizon extends over 150 miles in every
direction, commanding a view of seven different States. The are
included in this wonderful vision is estimated to be fully 50,000
square miles of varied and sublime scenery, a very wilderness of
mountains.
To reach this picturesque Cloudland, the traveler takes the Southern
Railway from Knoxville or Bristol to Johnson City, and then
transfers to the Cranberry (Stem-Winder) Narrow-Gauge Railroad, for
a ride of 26 miles to Roan Mountain Station, passing through the
wild and romantic Doe River Caņon four miles long, and 1,500 feet
deep. From the station a bracing ride of twelve miles over a
beautiful and romantic mountain road which zigzags up the steep
inclines, brings the traveler to the Cloudland Hotel on the very
summit. This house is famous as one of the best mountain hostelries |
 |
| 18 |
|
of the world. It is new, large, well built, and accommodates
five hundred guests. All the rooms have outside exposures, and the
State line between North Carolina and Tennessee runs through the
office.
The temperature is wonderfully even and deliciously cool. Once only
during nine weeks in last June, July and August, did the mercury
reach 75 degrees. The barometer averaging 24 inches, instead of 30
as at sea-level, shows that one-fifth of the atmospheric pressure is
removed. Even hay fever disappears absolutely, not a case having
been known there.
Prof. J. W. Chickering, of Washington, an enthusiastic
mountain-climber and botanist, says: "The beauty of the Roan
Mountain scenery, words would fail to describe. Standing more than a
mile above sea-level, with mountains on every side, we look out upon
such a wealth of creative magnificence, both in vastness of extent
and minuteness of detail, as it would be hard to equal anywhere on
the globe. The cloud views from the summit of Roan Mountain are
magnificent, and never twice alike. Often in the early morning, the
whole horizon will be one mass of pure white vapor, like the waters
of a shoreless sea, with only here and there at a mountain top, like
an island, emerging above the ghostly billows.
"At the very summit, where in the Northern Appalachians or the
Rockies would be a mass of rock, bare and barren, or a crown of huge
boulders, is a grassy slope of more than 1,000 acres, the soil black
and fertile, and the grass of a wonderfully vivid green. This great
meadow is dotted here and there with clumps of alder, and the
mountain rhododendron, forming symmetrical domes of dark pink, from
six to eight feet in height, while here and there are great masses
of the flame-colored azalea, varying from green-yellow to crimson,
looking in the setting sun like great waves of fire sweeping over
prairies.
"On two sides of the mountain, deep gorges, or ravines, come almost
to the mountain top, so that one may stand on the brink of an almost
perpendicular precipice and look down into a gulf 2,000 feet deep at
his very feet, and see the clouds in process of creation, as the
warm and moist air rising from the valley sweeps up the gorge, and
meets the cooler temperature of the upper heights, the ascending
current being sometimes so strong that a newspaper or straw hat,
thrown down into the abyss, is brought back again to the thrower,
literally upon the wings of the winds."
Roan Mountain will always be a popular resort.
The city of Chattanooga [which, according to D. G. Charles, C.E.,
means "the place where they pulled the Choctaw out of the water,"
and which was originally written "Choc-taw-nu-ga"] is admirably
located, both from a commercial and picturesque point of view. The
noble Tennessee River, which few people realize is, with its
tributaries, 2,500 miles long, winds its way around the north and
west sides of the city, and is navigable for ordinary boats many
miles in either direction. To the tourist, Chattanooga and its
historic environs presents many attractions. It has a population of
50,000 or more, and is one of the most prosperous, thriving, and
busy cities of the New South. Handsome business blocks and beautiful
residencies and streets give it a substantial, prosperous
appearance. From the standpoint of present interest, Chattanooga's
history dates from that memorable day in November, 1863, when
Sherman's advance had reached a point opposite the town and General
Bragg sent that ominous message to General Grant:
"As there may still be some non-combatants in Chattanooga, I deem to
proper to notify you that prudence would dictate their early
withdrawal."
The story of the siege of Chattanooga, of the battle above the
clouds, of the bloody field of Chickamauga, meaning in the Indian
tongue "the river of death," or the desperate and terrific struggle
on Missionary Ridge, need not be recounted here; they are
recorded by the chisel of History on the granite pages of Time, and
will endure until the end.
There are many famous spots, both in this country and in foreign
climes, where Nature has spread a panorama at the foot of some noble
mountain, that men may gaze upon and be enraptured. It has been the
fortune of the writer to view many of these, but for breadth of
vision, historic interest, and picturesque loveliness, the outlook
from the point of Lookout Mountain, which rises almost above the
city, stands without an equal, prominent land- |
 |
| 19 |
|
marks in seven different States being within the range of vision
on a clear day.
The city of Chattanooga lies almost at your feet, yet 1,700 feet
below you, the noise and din of its commerce lost to the ear; and
the noble Tennessee, tracing its silvery and sinuous course through
its fertile valley, is visible for many miles before it fades from
view among distant mountains. Turn which way you may, there is
spread before the vision a mingling of the wild and picturesque, the
romantic and inspiring, in startling and fascinating combinations.
No matter at what season or how often one beholds these scenes, they
are always entrancing, whether in the clear bright greens and browns
of spring; the dazzling gold and rich crimson of autumn, or the
silver and somber shades of winter.
Down the valley, where the "din of Chickamauga awoke the Nation,"
the Government has established a National Park, embracing in its ten
square miles all the battlefield. Liberal appropriations have been
made by Congress to carry on the work, which has included not only
the construction of a superb boulevard from the city along t he
crest of Missionary Ridge, a distance of thirteen miles, but the
restoration of the great battlefield, in such a way as to illustrate
the actual movements of the two armies.
Congress has already appropriated a half-million dollars.
Twenty-three State Commissions are now co-operating with the
National Commission, of which Gen. H. V. Boynton is the able
secretary, in locating battle lines and erecting monuments. The
veterans and the great army societies on both sides are taking
active interest in the project. Ohio has appropriated $95,000 for
her fifty-five monuments, New York is expending $81,000, and other
States proportionate amounts. There are already over forty miles |
 |
| 20 |
|
of finished roads of first-class construction in and about the
park. Historical tablets, each with comprehensive text cast in the
metal plates for army headquarters corps and divisions for both
sides and for both days' battle, are already in place at Chickamauga
and are ready for Chattanooga. Five steel and iron observation
towers, seventy feet high, at prominent points on each field, afford
a wide range of vision>
The grounds are a Park only in the sense of being restored to their
condition at the time of the battle. No work has been done for
purely decorative purposes. The old lines of works, and old houses
and stone walls which were landmarks in the battles and which were
destroyed, have been simply restored.
Chattanooga will of necessity remain the headquarters for the tide
of visitors which from this time forward must be a continuing and
increasing current.
On the noble plateau which crowns the summit of Lookout Mountain,
and facing the east, stands the beautiful Inn. Architecturally a
gem, whose graceful lines and attractive facade mark it as a
masterpiece of its designer, the Inn possesses within its walls all
the elegancies and comforts of the finest hotels in America. It has
a frontage of three hundred and sixty-five feet, and along the
entire length run wide and comfortable verandas, upon which one may
spend hours or days in languid pleasure, with the world at your
feet, and breathe an atmosphere so clear and bracing that it becomes
a veritable elixir of health and strength. The great entrance hall,
with its artistic oak ceiling, beautiful quartered oak staircase,
and broad and inviting fireplaces lends in its entirety the effect
of the luxurious interior of a modern nineteenth-century mansion of
the rich. Into this beautiful hall opening the parlors, reception
and waiting rooms, all tastefully finished and decorated in quiet
but exquisite taste. From the broad windows opening to the floor in
all these rooms, as in fact from all the rooms in the house, may be
had views which cannot be surpassed anywhere on the continent. The
Inn is owned by a company of wealthy Northern gentlemen, of which
Mr. John P. Sanborn, of Newport, is the President, and is presided
over by Mr. M. S. Gibson, of the famous Ottaway House on Cushing's
Island, Casco Bay, Maine - an ideal host, a sumptuous provider, and
a man whose reputation is so wide that not to know him is to argue
one's self unknown.
The dining hall, which is finished in quartered oak and artistically
decorated, will accommodate six hundred persons, and so great is the
popularity of that Inn that it is often taxed to its utmost
capacity. There are billiard, reading, and smoking-rooms, and all
the appointments of the Inn surpass those found in most of the
better class of city hotels. It is lighted by electricity, heated by
steam, and also has open fireplaces in both public and private
rooms. Wide verandas surround three sides of the house, and a high
tower, affording an unrivalled view, crowns |
 |
| 21 |
|
the whole. In the construction, fitting and equipment of the
Inn, the comfort of the guests has been primarily considered, and
special attention has been given to the sanitary arrangements, which
are as perfect as modern science can make them- over $20,000 having
been expended on them alone. A water-supply of great purity is
abundant, and it is needless to add that its high location makes the
drainage perfect.
As a health resort Lookout Mountain has no superior. The air is
balmy and exhilarating, the pine forest covering its surface
furnishes that restorative element peculiar to the pine trees. The
absorbent quality of the light and sandy soil prevents dampness,
malaria and rheumatism being unknown. The elevation guarantees
purity of atmosphere, most potent in its influences upon sufferers
from lung, throat and nervous diseases. Winter or summer it is a
paradise. Those who come to it will be disposed to single it out for
a second visit; and the fact that one of the best hotels in the
country is here will complete the allurements to visitors escaping
from the North and West to the pleasures of a warmer climate in the
winter season.
Atlanta, whose name has been so indelibly written on the historical
and commercial pages of the life of this nation, needs no extended
introduction to the reader. It stands today in the majesty of its
strength, a typical American city, full of energy, enterprise, and
patriotism. Certainly no city in the South and few in the entire
country have as carried manufacturing interests or sounder financial
institutions. It is the commercial and geographical metropolis of a
vast region, and to it, so far as the South is concerned, as to
ancient Rome, all roads lead. it is not within the intent of this
article to tell in detail of Atlanta's great industrial interests,
of the man millions of dollars invested in her manufacturing and
business enterprises, of her superb public buildings and commercial
blocks, her miles of well-paved streets and handsome residences, her
fifty miles of modern sewerage, her perfect school system and modern
educational and religious edifices, and her magnificent and costly
opera house, the second largest in the United States. To tell it all
would fill a volume, so let us turn rather to her perhaps less
important but also less prosaic features, and tell of her beautiful
well-kept parks, including the McPherson military reservation, the
finest in all America, on which the Government has spent or will
spend three millions. Let us tell of her charming climate, which
converts the severe winter of the North into Indian summer, and
banishes utterly all bronchial and asthmatic troubles, which tempers
too the heat of the summer, and gives those who live within her
gates the opportunity to tell with truth that they need a blanket
over them every July or August night, for Atlanta is far enough from
the sea- and how history has associated those two names! - and high
enough on the mountainous plateau to give her an altitude of 1,200
feet. She has a social life which is charming, her clubs rank with
the best, and summer or winter the strangers will find not only a
cordial and hospitable welcome, but an endless number of
opportunities for pleasure. No city enjoys a more equable winter
climate, and any one going South for the season will not go amiss if
it is made a part of their plan to spend a portion of the time, at
least, in the "Gate City,"
Atlanta is now preparing to open in the fall of '95 a stupendous
Exposition, to which all the world will be invited. So much has been
written about he enterprise that every one is more or less informed
concerning it. Any one familiar with Atlanta's citizens and their
indomitable push and energy knows that it will be a success second
only in point of magnitude to the World's Fair.
As the South is proud of Atlanta, so is Atlanta proud of the Aragon
Hotel- a noble structure, in every way typical of all that is
advanced in American architecture, good taste and refined elegance.
It stands on the highest point in the city, just where the
commercial centre ends and the residential portion begins. Peachtree
Street, known everywhere among the traveled as one of the most
beautiful residence avenues in this country, has its beginning at
almost the very doors of the Aragon, and across from it are the
fashionable Capital Club and the Governor's |
 |
| 22 |
|
mansion, while just below is the Grand Opera House, and three
squares beyond that the Union depot. The Aragon is not only
acknowledged to be the finest all-the-year hotel in the South, but
would, if located in New York among the majestic and gorgeous
hotel-palaces of the metropolis, attract attention. Madame Patti-Nicolini,
after having spent several days there last winter, wrote an
autograph letter to Mr. Frank Bell, the President of the Aragon
Company, in which she said that her apartments at the Aragon were
the finest and most luxurious of any she had ever occupied in
America, and that everything else was in keeping. "This," said she,
"is a little burst of enthusiasm, every word of which is meant." The
exterior of the Aragon is of the Spanish Romanesque type, the first
story being of handsome Georgia marble, and the remaining five of
brick with marble trimmings. The main entrance is under a massive
arch of graceful lines, and opens into the office, a spacious room,
wainscoted in cabinet oak nine feet from the marble floor. The
ceiling is raftered in the same beautiful wood, which adds to the
harmonious effect. To the left of the main entrance is the ladies'
entrance and reception room. in charge of a servant in livery, who
receives the cards of visitors and escorts them to the luxurious and
superbly furnished and reception rooms and parlors. The Aragon is
conducted on both the American and European plans, and a large
portion of the ground floor is taken up with teh cafe, which is
charmingly and richly furnished. Hundreds of wide-spreading palms
give it a semi-tropical appearance. It is modeled after that in the
Holland House, New York, and is no way its inferior.
The main dining room is spacious, and richly furnished. It is
finished in oak with large buffets and fireplaces. At one end are
two large elliptical windows, 30 feet each, making the end entire
glass. The ceiling is paneled with heavy oak beams, and decorated in
sixteenth-century style. The electric features of this room are
especially attractive, the centre pillars being entwined with a vine
effect in electric light.
The breakfast-room is appointed in pure Castilian style, and on the
walls are hung beautiful paintings in oil on tapestry. The entire
table service is of the finest Haviland china and Gorham silverware,
each piece bearing the crest of the royal house of Aragon, while the
cuisine is above criticism. Every day the best markets in New York
contribute their quota, to which are added the delicacies and
specialties of the South. An orchestra of fine musicians adds to the
enjoyment of the dinner. The furnishings of the Aragon are
throughout of the finest and most |
 |
| 23 |
|
attractive patterns, the tapestries and carpets luxurious. The
house is new and nothing but the most modern in furniture of
fittings has been place in it.
Upon the roof a charming roof-garden attracts each evening, during
the summer months, many of Atlanta's best social circles. It is a
bit of fragrant fairyland, with palms, blooming flowers and tinkling
fountains, where nightly one of the finest orchestras in the city
regales with restful melodies the chosen few who have access to its
beauties.
The management of the Aragon is what might be expected in such a
perfectly appointed house. In fact, even the traveler who tarries
but for a day is impressed with the perfect system and complete
supervision which pertains to every department. At no hotel, whether
North, South, East or West, will the visitor be made to feel more
completely at home, or will he be better cared for while a guest.
During his many visits to Atlanta, the writer has never seen a day,
winter, or summer, which was not climatically ideal, the average
winter day being like those of Indian summer in New York and New
England.
The opening of the famous Kimball House at Atlanta several years ago
was chronicled far and wide, not as an item of local interest alone,
but as of importance to the entire South. It was a matter of general
public congratulation, and it is no exaggeration to say that it was
the keynote of the new era commercially in Atlanta and the Southern
Atlanta Coast States. The Kimball is a magnificent structure,
architecturally beautiful and located in the very heart of the city,
surrounded by the business marts of trade and in close proximity to
the Union depot, where all the great lines of railroad centre, and
from which electric street car lines run to every portion of the
city and out to the delightful suburbs and parks. This great hotel
can readily accommodate a thousand guests, and its light and airy
corridors and spacious arcades on every floor not only relive any
impression of crowding but afford the guests delightful promenades
from which they may look down upon the office lobby, which,
especially at evening, when brilliantly illuminated, with its
hundreds of electric lights, presents an animated scene of
ever-changing interest. This lobby is famous in the political annals
of Georgia, for in it, especially during the sessions of the State
Legislature, more political schemes are made and unmade than in any
other room in the South. On the ground floor, which has entrances on
three principal streets, and connected with the office, are the
general ticket offices of the principal railroads, telegraph offices
open all night, large billiard rooms, and every convenience for the
traveling public. The Kimball is perfect in all of its appointments,
its cuisine excellent, and its table abundantly supplied with the
best the markets afford. It is run only on the American plan, and
Charles Beermann & Co., the proprietors, are well known to the
traveling public as thorough, genial, and popular hosts. They are
also proprietors of the Markham Hotel, which is, like the Kimball,
in close proximity to the Union depot, and is a thoroughly
comfortable hotel.
Tourists visiting the South will find the route from New York to
Jacksonville, via Atlanta, a very desirable one, especially if it
includes a sojourn in the "Gate City." |
 |
| 24 |
|
The city of Charlotte, N.C., is historically interesting from
the fact that it was here that the "Mecklenburg Declaration of
Independence" was adopted. It is also the centre of the North
Carolina gold-fields, and a mint was formerly established here, at
which over $5,000,000 in gold was deposited up to the breaking out
of the war, when the mint was abandoned. At Charlotte, the Southern
Railway forks, the eastern stem running south, connecting at
Columbia, S.C., with F.C. & P. for Florida points, while the western
continues to Atlanta. It is a thriving manufacturing town of 15,500,
with all the energy, push, and enterprise of a metropolis. It has a
score of extensive factories, and seven cotton mills, splendidly
paved streets, and handsome business blocks and residences. It is
perhaps as typical a city of the "new South" as could be named. It
supports two prosperous daily papers, 37 churches, a university and
excellent schools, and is destined to be within a few years of
commercial and manufacturing center of recognized natural
importance. Everywhere there are the evidences of wealth, thrift,
progress, and improvement. Broad, well-paved streets, well-built,
prosperous-looking storehouses, magnificent residences, with their
grand old trees and well-kept lawns, a $100,000 Government building,
and busy, bustling, and extensive factories attract the eye of the
stranger and impress him with the fact that Charlotte is only
rightly named when her people call her the "Queen City of the Old
North State."
Tourists en route to or from Florida will find Charlotte an excellent
place to break the journey and will be amply repaid for the time
spent here. They will find a most satisfactory hotel there in the
Buford, which is a thoroughly modern building, and has lately been
completely refitted and refurnished at great expense and with
excellent taste. It is one of the handsomest and best-managed hotels
in the South, and its present proprietors, Messrs. Faritosh and Amer,
have each had a long and successful experience in hotel management
in the North. They exercise a personal supervision over all portions
of the house. The Buford is a substantial structure of brick, has
about 100 rooms, and in it are all the modernisms of the best
hotels, including electric lights, rapid elevator, return call
bells, team heat and open fireplaces. Charlotte is becoming more and
more popular as a place for Northern people to spend the winter and
the Buford offers a comfortable home to all such as may wish to
remain for an extended period.
As the dining-room and kitchen are located on the top floor, all
unpleasant odors are avoided, and in addition the guests have a
delightful outlook. Altogether the Buford Hotel is as near perfect
as good management and comfortable surroundings can make it.
Brunswick, Ga., presents one of the most remarkable records of
development of any city in the South. Ten years ago it was a
struggling village dependent upon shoal-draught vessels for its
commerce of lumber and naval stores. Today it is a thrifty city of
10,000 population, with a shipping business of $14,000,000 annually,
and giving cargoes to the deepest draught vessels. There is also a
regular line of steamships sailing fortnightly from Brunswick to
Liverpool. This is largely due to its importance as the South
Atlantic terminus of the Southern Railway, and to the remarkable
success of Col. C. P. Goodyear in deepening its ocean bar by the
explosion of dynamite, thus in two years changing the depth from 17
feet at mean high tide to 23.9. The peninsula on which Brunswick is
situated is entirely surrounded by salt water, and furnishes 35
miles of deep-draught wharfage. The town is pre-eminently healthful,
and with its new system of sewerage and drainage, costing $170,000,
will be freed from even the casual effects of autumn malarias. The
city and county have a splendid system of graded public schools,
modern in equipment and curriculum. One of the most pleasant
features of Brunswick is its chain of a dozen sea-girted islands,
with long stretches of magnificent beach, and rapidly coming into
prominence as ideal winter resorts. There is Jekyl Island, famous
the world over as the beautiful winter home of multi-millionaires,
and its splendid hunting grounds, with wild boar, deer, quail and
other winged game; Cumberland, with its magnificent hotels; St.
Simon the isle of traditions, and villages of summer resort; on all
sides the rarest of fishing-grounds. These islands are charming both
in winter and summer. Brunswick is equally enticing in its delights
of summer breeze and winter free- |
 |
| 25 |
|
dom from cold. As a country of fruits and vegetables the section
adjacent to Brunswick is much the same as Florida, and oranges,
lemons, olives, bananas, pecans, and other semi-tropical fruits are
grown by home gardeners to remarkable perfection. On the reclaimed
marsh and swamp lands celery is grown to perfection. There is much
to attract the seeker after ante-bellum lore in this section, and
everywhere traces of the life that has been so fascinating to
writers of modern fiction. From the standpoint of either business or
pleasure Brunswick should not be overlooked by the Southern tourist
ore the home seeker. It is surely destined to achieve great future
commercial importance. That portion of the Southern Railway which
runs between Atlanta and Brunswick connects at Everett with Florida
Central & Peninsula Ry.
Savannah, which has a population of 65,000, is distinctly Southern
in its appearance, and the plan of the city designed by Oglethorpe,
its founder, has been adhered to. No other American city has a
greater wealth of foliage, or such charming seclusion and such
sylvan perfection, so united with all the convenience and
compactness of a great commercial city. Its public squares are
adorned with statues and fountains, and are filled with gigantic
live-oaks, bedecked with the graceful hanging moss of the tropics,
with here and there beautiful magnolias, catalpas, and banana trees.
Among the flowers the most beautiful are the rose and the
camellia-japonica, which bloom luxuriantly in mid-winter in the open
air.
But its natural beauty is not all that Savannah boasts. Its
architecture is varied and striking, much of it in the quaint
fashion of bygone days, but with those characteristics that the art
of the present day is eager to counterfeit. It is rich in historic
memories; and having passed through four wars, it is necessarily a
city of much historic interest. Today Savannah is representative
both of the old and the new South. It possesses many of the
characteristics of the ante-bellum period, with the thrift,
enterprise, business activity, and the wealth that have made it a
great commercial city. Among its historically interesting public
buildings is the old theater built in the early part of the century
and now the oldest playhouse in America. The Telfair Academy of Arts
and Sciences, the art gallery of the South, occupying the home of
one of the early governors of the colony, has become famous within
the last few years. A writer in the Magazine of Art says of
it that it is like nothing so much as a bit of Munich strayed from
the banks of Iser to the New World.
Christ Church, the oldest church in the city, dates from the
founding of the colony, John Wesley, having been its rector, long
before he espoused the doctrine of Methodism. It was in Christ
Church that the first Sunday School was established by Wesley half a
century before Robert Raikes, who is honored as the founder of
Sunday Schools, originated the scheme of Sunday instruction in
England. The Independent Presbyterian Church dates back to 1755, and
in its dedication, President James Monroe assisted. The Cathedral of
St. John the Baptist, the domus of the Roman Catholic see of
Savannah, is one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in the
South. The architecture is French Gothic, in the style of the Notre
Dame cathedral in Paris. Wesley Monumental Church, although of
modern architecture, is, strange as it may seem, the only known
monument to the founder of Methodism, and stands within a short
distance of the great preacher's first pulpit in America. One of the
most famous and beautiful cemeteries in all America is
"Bona-venture," at Savannah, and within its sacred confines have
been buried many of the most distinguished Southerners. |
 |
| 26 |
|
Fernandina is located in a sheltered situation on the west side
of Amelia Island, the northern extremity of which guards the
entrance to Cumberland Sound and the extensive land-locked harbor,
into which open the St. Mary's and Amelia Rivers from the Nassau
Inlet, the former from the west, and the latter from the southeast.
The harbor of Fernandina is one of the finest and most commodious on
the Atlantic Coast. It is similar to Charleston and Savannah in
having a bar at its entrance, and in respect to the draught which
can be carried to its wharves the three cities are about of a par.
But Fernandina excels the others in that the wharfing shore is only
about three miles from the sea-buoy or open ocean.
Throughout the portion of Fernandina devoted to private residences
are found some of the handsomest and cosiest homes in all Florida.
The gently sloping eminence upon which this portion of the city is
built affords facilities for ample drainage, which has been
thoroughly effected by a perfect and modern system of sewerage. The
atmosphere, laden with the perfume of the sea and exhalations from
the vast pine forests near at hand, is pure and healthful; and the
ocean tides, sweeping over the salt marshes, leave no
malaria-breeding stagnant pools. In the light sandy soil, mixed with
comminuted shell, is found a source of productiveness attested by
the luxuriant growth of the orange trees and shade trees of all
kinds, including the stately palm, and of the numerous
vegetable-gardens and flower-yards abounding in and about the city.
But the beach of Amelia Island, only two miles from Fernandina
proper, demands more than passing attention. It is about twenty-two
miles long, and has an average width of two miles. The driveway to
the Beach from the sown is a compact shell road.
Among the interesting antiquarian object at Fernandina are the site
of the old fort and the "Old Town" of Fernandina, relics of the old
Spanish times. Some two or three miles from the town stands old Fort
Clinch. Excursions by steamer through Cumberland Sound bring the
tourist to some delightful places on the surrounding islands. On
Cumberland Island is the historic estate of Dungeness (now the
property of Mr. Carnegie) donated to General Nathaniel Greene by the
State. Broad avenues, bounded by plantations of ancient orange and
olive-trees and bordered by giant oaks, penetrate the Island, on
which rest the ashes of "Light Horse Harry" Lee of Revolutionary
fame.
Jekyl Island is also in the vicinity, and is the property of the
Jekyl Island Club.
A number of persons doing business in Jacksonville are residents of
Fernandina, going to and fro over the Florida Central and Peninsular
Railroad.
Jacksonville, a city of nearly thirty thousand people, stretches
back from and beside the banks of the noble St. John's River. It is
cosmopolitan, as such a place must be that is the gateway by which
the throngs that visit Florida every winter enter the State.
Constantly improving railroad facilities have brought it into close
contact with the cities of the North and West, and a new union depot
is in course of erection for the accommodation of the traveling
public. At this point in the heart of the city, the Florida Central
and Peninsular Railroad has its terminal, with large yard facilities
and wharves at which the New York steams of the "Clyde" line land
and embark their passengers and freight, and from Jacksonville the
Florida Central and Peninsular sends out branches in all directions-
north, through Savannah and Columbia, to the highlands of South
Carolina, |
 |
| 27 |
|
the magnificent, towering mountain peaks of North Carolina and
Tennessee, and over the hills of Old Virginia to the cities of the
North, by the Southern Railway system; north-west via Everett, by
vestibuled trains to Cincinnati, passing through Macon, Atlanta, and
Chattanooga, over the hills of Georgia and the picturesque scenery
of Tennessee, and luxuriant Kentucky; again through Everett, by a
through-car line, by Macon, Atlanta, Birmingham, Memphis, on the
bluffs of Mississippi, into the heart of Missouri and out to the
plains of Kansas; and still again by another line to St. Louis, by
Holly Springs, to Chicago by the Illinois Central, and as far as
Sioux City, with but one change of cars.
To the west it stretches an arm through the beautiful Hill Country
of Middle Florida, on its own line as far as the Chattahoochee
River, where, forming a connection with the Louisville and
Nashville, it takes the traveler through Pensacola, Mobile, and
straight to New Orleans, without change of cars, whence he can
travel directly to Texas, Mexico, California, and the Pacific Coast.
Southward it bends its course like the fingers of a hand, covering
the most important portions of Florida to the very edge of the Gulf
of Mexico at Cedar Key and Tampa, and almost to the Atlantic Ocean
on the east at Orlando and Winter Park. More of Florida can be seen
on its line than on any other in the State. Some detail may be
desirable. Reverting to its western arm after leaving Jacksonville,
and passing westward through some miles of odorous and healthful
pine, we come to the older settled regions, formerly the estates of
elegant mansions, large plantations, and still of substantial
comfort, and waiting to give content to numerous families who shall
hereafter appreciate the rather slighted at present, bounties of
this portion of Florida.
Lake City- the seat of the Agricultural College of Florida- Madison,
and Greenville, Monticello, Tallahassee, and Quincy are all in this
beautiful country of hill and dale, and as in general
characteristics they are similar, a description of Tallahassee, the
capital, will give a fair idea of all. It is not an orange-producing
section, though many orange-trees are grown in sheltered localities
and near the dwellings; but around the ample residences there is an
air of plenty, and under the great oaks of the town avenues there is
a picturesque beauty. The glossy leaves of the magnolia trees and
the luxuriance of the gardens attest a teeming soil and a beneficent
climate, and the peasantry of the country, the fat, healthy, and
laughter-loving dark-hued tillers of the soil, traveling along the
roads with their many-shaped vehicles and teams of oxen, miles, or
horses, or an assortment of all, show that nature generously gives
them plenty to eat, and abundance of time for frolic. Tallahassee,
the county-seat of Leon and the capital of Florida is 165 miles wets
of Jacksonville, and stands upon the summit of a hill 250 feet above
the level of the Gulf of Mexico, from which, only 25 miles distant,
it receives exhilarating breezes laden with the odors of the
unbroken pine-forests between.
To the north and east and west are other hills, among which lie
placid, clear lakes, with banks of varying scenery and rich growths
of woodland: Lake Lafayette, on the former estate of Marquis de la
Fayette, granted him by the grateful country to |
 |
| 28 |
|
whose service he lent his energies, Lakes Jackson, Hall, and
lamonia.
The town itself presents very pleasing features, embowered as it is
in a profusion of flowers, and in it and the surrounding country one
might be indefinitely detained with agreeable society; by the
romantic drives in all directions; by shooting water fowl or fishing
and boating on the lakes; visiting the vineyards, for here the grape
industry has reached a most successful issue; or the stock-farms,
where intelligent care has removed the reproach that fine Jerseys
cannot be reared in Florida; or the Murat Place, where for the
moment the memory of its former owner, Prince Murat, son of the
great Marshal, takes us back to Napoleon's time- and so on. One may
also visit Wakulla Springs, about 18 miles distant, where the spring
issues forth a calm, broad sheet, walled in on each side by dense,
dark, lonesome cypress forests that echo to the cry of wild birds.
Down in the depths of its transparent, crystal waters, it is
possible to follow with the eye revolving bits of tin, until they
are seen resting on the bottom, 180 feet below. In this romantic
vicinity is the invisible volcano, where a stream of smoke arises.
For all one knows, it may guard the traditional "Fountain of Youth,"
but whatever mystery it hides, it has guarded its secret well, for
none have penetrated it. St. Marks, near the Gulf Coast, is the
terminus of a branch of the road from Tallahassee, and is the summer
resort of Tallahasseers who go there, and to the near St. Theresa
Island, to fish and hunt.
This hill country of middle Florida yields cotton, tobacco,
sugar-cane, corn, oats, rye, Japanese plums, Japanese persimmons,
pears, peaches, grapes, figs, strawberries, melons, sweet potatoes,
and all vegetable. It has fish and game in abundance.
Again in Jacksonville, with our faces turned southward, will over
the Florida Central and Peninsular, we pass through Lawtey, settled
by Northern people, the chief industry being beside orange culture,
vegetable and strawberry farming, to the success of which their
neat, and often elegant, residences attest. Starke is surrounded by
orange groves, peach and pear orchards, vineyards, and strawberry
farms. At Waldo, the junction of the Cedar Key division, are many
points of attraction for the tourist and prospector. The Old Fort
Harlee orange-tree, long known as the largest in the State, stood in
this neighborhood. The Kennard grove, peach and fruit orchard,
famous the world over, is here, as well as the extensive Keystone
fruit farm, and Col. Livingston's beautiful grove. Melrose, distant
eleven miles, is reached by a trip through the canals and the
beautiful Alto and Santa Fe lakes.
But we will, at this point, diverge to the Cedar Key division, which
starts at Waldo and first reaches Fairbanks, one of the healthiest
spots in Florida, with some excellent cheap land, awaiting settlers.
Several large, compact bodies of virgin pine timber close to
transportation await the sawmill.
Gainesville is a gas-lighted city, with a street-railway system and
two banks. It is a commercial centre, the location of the United
States Land Office for Florida. It has the finest road in the State,
consisting of seven miles of continuous rock roads through the
surrounding vegetable farms, which are not surpassed for fertility
anywhere in the State.
Across Lake Newman is Windsor, considered by many the handsomest
town in Florida. IT has the only tub, bucket, and pail factory in
the State, and offers extraordinary inducements to newcomers. From
here we reach Micanopy, Rochelle, Arredondo, long famous for their
rich lands and wealthy truck farmers. A settlement of Friends, or
Quakers, with a handsome meeting-house is located at Archer, and
near by are the famous Shell Pond nurseries. From Archer runs the
"Mineral Branch," which gives access to the phosphate mines- the new |
 |
| 29 |
|
Portland, Standard, Seminole, Baltimore Company's, the Boulder,
Early Bird, the New York Company's nearly all of which are shipping,
their product being of high grade; and the stations of Williston,
Montbrook, Salvator, Standard Junction, Early Bird, and Eagle Mine.
Kanapaha, equi-distant from Archer and Gainesville seven miles, is
surrounded b high rolling pine lands, conducive to health. Here can
be seen several hundred acres of fine, young orange groves, just
coming into beating. The hunting is fine. Bronson, the county seat
of Levy country, has some extensive commercial interests.
The "Gulf Hammock" can be reached form here, or more easily from the
Otter Creek, where a few miles distant is the Gulf Hammock House of
Captain Wingate, where sportsmen from all parts of the world gather
each year. Game of all kinds abounds in this whole region. Cedar Key
is on an island in the Gulf of Mexico, surrounded by numerous other
"keys," or islands of great beauty of location. The climate of this
place is most equable and temperate and well repays a visit of some
duration. The American, the Faber and the Eagle pencil mills are
located here. Fish, oysters, and lumber are the principal articles
of export.
The central lake region, nearly 200 feet above the sea level,
contains the most famous and fertile lands, perhaps, in the State,
Lakes Santa Fe, Geneva, Alto, Newman, Navarre, Levy, Lochloosa, and
Orange are all fine bodies of water, and afford remarkable
protection from the frost.
Here we have fully entered upon the "Orange Belt." Occasionally we
shall see in the midst of the luxuriant vegetation of the hammocks
along the road bright clusters of wild oranges. These were formerly
utilized in the shape of juice and sent to the manufacturers to be
converted into citric acid, but later on, these native trees were
grafted to sweet kinds, and became the foundation of the most
magnificent groves in the country. Such a one we see after passing
Orange Heights and Campville- a center of activity in the
manufacture of bricks, tile, pottery, and orange and fruit crates
made from native wood; Hawthorne, prolific in the fruits- peach and
orange- of a soil rich with shell and marl on a clay basis; along
the palmetto lined shore of Lochloosa, crossing an arm of Orange
Lake, whose waters are concealed far out by a mantle of reeds and
lily pads; and our delighted course is for nearly a mile among
70,000 full-bearing trees. Twelve hundred fine trees had to be
removed to make room for the construction of the track. So on
through Citra, embowered among live oaks and magnolias, Anthony, in
the high, healthy pine land, with its numerous phosphate plants
mills, and stores, schools and beautiful churches, and Spring Park,
bright with its attractive winter homes, inhabited by New England
and Middle States people, with fine young groves growing up around
them. Two miles down, on a branch of the road, is the tourist's
objective point, the Silver Springs. Into a vast basin 600 feet in
diameter and 60 feet deep, the spring issues in one body of clear,
pure water that flows away continuously for eight miles in the
Silver Spring Run into the romantic Ocklawaha. Daily trips on this
are made by the launch Elizabeth, Capt. James Coons.
Ocala and the Semi-Tropical Exposition next demand our attention.
Ocala has many elements of solid prosperity. Immense bearing orange
groves, wide-spread truck farms, cotton plantations, corn fields and
other agricultural industries, make it an important commercial
centre. To these have been added large manufacturing interests. It
is now also |
 |
| 30 |
|
the centre of great phosphate interests. The city is lighted by
electricity, has street railway system, first-class water
works, fire protection and paved streets. The handsomest exhibit of
Florida products ever made was at the Semi-Tropical at Ocala in
1888.
From Ocala to Wildwood, and thence on the easterly branch of the
road to Orlando, is a succession of villages and towns, from which
the traveler has only to stray a little distance to find himself by
some beautiful clear water lake, or in the midst of groves and
dwellings often tasteful and elegant.
Leesburg and Tavares are among the principal towns. Orlando shares
with Ocala, Gainesville, Tallahassee, and Tampa the prominence of
being one of the most important and enterprising towns in this
section of country. It is one of those remarkable places that many
Western towns have grown up almost in a night, as it were, contrary
to all expectations.
Beautiful lakes diversify the country in its vicinity, and thrifty
orange groves abound. Villas and cottages form cosy winter homes.
The terminus of the Florida Central and Peninsular's southern
division is Tampa, famous for its beautiful groves and tropical
shade trees. Tampa Bay and harbor are renowned for their fish as for
the pleasure sailing and rowing they afford. Tampa appears destined
to great commercial importance in the near future; and is just now
much talked of as the uniting point of the transcontinental trade
with South America.
The mammoth Tampa Hotel, which is under the superb management of Mr.
J. H. King, is, of course, the most attractive feature of the place,
and is without question the most magnificent and costly tourist
hotel in the world. Nine miles from Tampa is the Inn, far out in the
bay and built over the water on piling. From this point the line of
steamers sail regularly to and from Havana, Cuba (toughing en route
each way at Key West). Visitors to that interesting and tropical
island will find the Tampa route the most desirable and enjoyable
one. Tampa is easily reached from all Northern, Eastern, or Western
points by the Southern Ry. in conjunction with the "F C & P."
At Lacochee the Florida Central and Peninsular connects with the
Sanford and St. Petersburg Railroad, which runs over one of the most
beautiful portions of Florida, along the coast of the Gulf of
Mexico, Tarpon Springs, Dunedin, Sutherland, Clear Water Harbor, St.
Petersburg are all points of resort. This is the region where the
"Silver King" of fish, the gamey tarpon, has its haunts and where he
may be taken if one has the requisite skill and necessary tackle.
After one of thsee magnificent specimens of the finny tribes has
been killed, every other kind of fishing loses much of its charm,
for it is without question the most exciting experience which ever
comes to a man with rod and reel. There are many resorts on Tampa
Bay easily accessible by daily steamers from Port Tampa, where the
best of fishing may be had. Wild fowl are also very plenty in the
numerous inlets.
Florida is in these days easily accessible from all points North,
East, South and West via the Southern Ry. and the "F C & P," and
tourists will find the accommodations and train service on these
lines equal to any in America. |
 |
| 31 |
|
Jacksonville has been called the gateway of Florida, and so it
is commercially and geographically, as here all the great railway
and steamships lines centre, and from here as a point of radiation
all Florida tourist travel begi |