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Preface, iii |
PREFACE
"It must be briefly stated in preliminary, that this little book
-- designed as a definite manual or guide to mountain resorts of Western
North Carolina, as to relative position distances, etc. -- does not
pretend to exhaust the places of attraction in this extended region. On
the contrary, only prominent localities, with their approximate points
of beauty or interest, are here outlined, leaving a wide field untouched
; as when we reflect that this great table-land, literally furrowed by
mountains, is two hundred and fifty miles in length, with an average
width of fifty miles, it will be understood at a glance that much more
space would be needed to comprehend all.
Of those embraced, it may be pleaded that the wild
charm of untamed natural beauty does not readily yield to the garb of
descriptive phrase or portraitures. Nature, to her real lovers, speaks
far more appealingly without aid or intervention. Some reader, glancing
through, may exclaim with Horace Walpole, 'In truth there seems little
but prospects ; and for these, unless I were a bird, I would not journey
so far ;' though the latter adds in excuse, ' when ac- ...."
[Statement of intent for the guide booklet., " ...definite
manual or guide to mountain resorts of Western North Carolina ...does
not pretend to exhaust the places of attraction in this extended region.]
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Preface. iv |
"...commodations are so wretched.' this
may scarcely be urged in force, as throughout the country comfort is
generally attainable, and in many instances much besides. As a rule, he
who carries an appreciative spirit, and a reasonable purse, may find an
enjoyable resting-place almost anywhere.
Certainly a very fair balance between charges and
accommodation may be claimed for this region. As this suggests rates of
board, and as it is the end of a guide-book to give practical
information, it may be added that board ranges from fifteen dollars to
forty and fifty per month ; average, twenty-five. Special rates of
course to families and parties. More exact rates of special localities
will be found in the advertising
pages.
I. F C.
[Generalities of room and board cost, relative to quality of accommodations.]
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Contents, v |
CONTENTS
PREFACE
.........................................................
.................... 3
INTRODUCTORY
............................................................... 9
ROUTES TO THE MOUNTAINS ....................................13
ASHEVILLE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS ..................... 19
THE BLACK DOME, OR MOUNT MITCHELL ........... 29
HICKORY-NUT GAP
....................................................... 39
CAESAR'S HEAD
............................................................
51
HAYWOOD WHITE-SULPHER SPRINGS .................. 60
CLOUDLAND -- ROAN MOUNTAIN ......................... 65
WARM SPRINGS
...........................................................
73
GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY WITH SUGGESTIONS TO THE SPORTSMAN
...................................................................
70
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vi |
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page 10 |
ILLUSTRATIONS.
BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF W.N.C.R.R.
................................ 11
ASHEVILLE FROM BEAUCATCHER .........................
17
FROM BLACK MOUNTAIN
......................................... 27
POINT LOOKOUT -- CAESAR'S HEAD ....................... 49
FRENCH BROAD RIVER
.................................................. 71
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page 11 |
Bird's Eye View of WNCRR |
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page 12 |
INTRODUCTORY
"'If you would enjoy mountains, you must carry mountains in your
brain. Nature plays at dominoes with you -- you must match her piece,
before she will yield it up to you.'
"'But mountain scenery is stupidly monotonous -- it is ever the
same, ' is the objection sometimes urged against it by those whose
sympathies or sensibilities -- dare we whisper capabilities -- are too
contracted to embrace these huge children of earth. Ever the same? O
mantle of snow, spring-robe of verdure, flowered tunic of summer,
flaming vesture of autumn! O blue vail of distance, mourning vail of
storms, white diaphanous drapery, and bridal wreaths of fog! 'O sunrise
and sunset crowns of fire!' O fleeting cloud-shadows, flinging fitful
frowns across their uplifted brows! O ineffable richness of sunlit
smiles on their stern solemn features! O versatile spirit of Nature,
capricious as childhood, or a woman's fancy! unite to contradict
the false aspersion!..."
[poetics regarding the polymorphous, but ever beautiful, faces of
nature.] |
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page 13 |
ROUTES TO THE MOUNTAINS.
"Three primary routes conduct the traveller to that diversified
table-land, within whose limits are embraced the several points of
interest herein described. Hedged in as this grand table-land is by the
long parallel boundaries of Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountains, and
rent into numerous transverse valleys by a series of cross-chains,
almost any route leading thither must scale these natural walls through
some convenient gap...
Swannanoa Gap ; Western North Carolina Railroad ; Salisbury ; Asheville ;
Blue Ridge Mountains ; Great
Smoky Mountains
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page 14 |
Swannanoa Gap; Swannanoa Range; Swannanoa
River ; Craggy ; the Black |
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page 15 |
North Carolina Railroad ; Hickory ; Morganton
; Saluda ;
Spartanburg ; Hendersonville ; Tryon Mountain ; Glen Alpine Springs ;
Salisbury |
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page 16 |
Hendersonville ; Flat Rock "...A day
spent in driving over the lovely grounds about these places will be
enjoyed, as while the houses are merely pretty or comfortable summer
dwellings, the ample grounds, richly improved, are well worth a visit --
notably the flower-covered terraces of the Drayton place, the splendid
avenues of giant trees on the Trenholm grounds, or the picturesque ruins
of the old De Choiseul mansion. In the vicinity is the Flat Rock House,
a large summer hotel of long reputation.; Cumberland Gap
Route |
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page 17-18 |
View "from Beaucatcher" |
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page 19 |
ASHEVILLE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
"'A PLACE of resort -- that is only to say,
A place where all sorts freely gather ;
The 'twenty-four black-birds,' the grave and the gay
Here mingle, or jostle in wondrous melee,
A human kaleidoscope, rather!'"
"Asheville has already been mentioned as the terminus of the
State transmontane railroad, but to this mountain capital, the Hub of
the region, and itself one of the most popular resorts of all, more
extended notice must be given..."
[Description
of Asheville and near environs.]
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page 20 |
[Demographic of tourists; projection of
accommodations; mountain expeditions; mountain views] "For years a favorite resort
for the people of its own State,
and those of South Carolina, with a large number from the far South and
a fair proportion of Northerners, particularly invalids, as the railroad
drew near, and access became more convenient, the place has steadily
gained in popularity, and during the season of 1880 rejoiced in a larger
number of visitors than ever before..."
Black Dome ; Roan ; Caesar's Head ; Warm Springs ; Haywood White
Sulphur ; Asheville
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page 21 |
[poetics regarding the beauty of Asheville and
the surrounding region from Beaucatcher] |
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page 22 |
Richmond Hill ; view of Pisgah ; Spring Glen |
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page 23 |
Richmond Hill ; Fernihurst ; Swannanoa River
; French Broad River ; |
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page 24 |
Sulpher Springs ; Reems Creek Falls ; Elk
Mountain ; Elk Factory ; Arden Park Hotel |
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page 25 |
Arden Park Hotel ; Arden Forest |
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page 26 |
"... all needed comfort or luxuries may be
found or obtained at short notice." |
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page 27-28 |
Asheville from Beaucatcher |
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page 29 |
THE BLACK DOME ; OR MOUNT MITCHELL
[description]
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page 30 |
[description of journey up to Mount Mitchell
base] |
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page 31 |
Alexander's ; "Glass's, a roomy (?) cabin
at the foot of the Black, and the usual resting place for the
night..." Mountain House ; Mount Mitchell ...
[Description of the ascent of Mount Mitchell
with pack animals and description of camping supplies.]
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page 32 |
[Further description of ascent of Mount
Mitchell, with details of vegetation and trees ; Mountain House] |
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page 33 |
[View from the top of Mount Mitchell:]
South Carolina line; Grandfather Mountain; Roan Mountain ; Unaka Chain |
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page 34 |
[Roan Mountain; Unaka Chain; Great Smokies;
Bald and Iron Mountains; Newfound ; Pisgah ; Cold Mountain ; Balsam
heights ; Linville crests ; Table Rock ; Hawk's Bill ; King's Mountain ;
Craggy] |
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page 35 |
Mount Mitchell. "It is the charm of these
lawless owners of solitude that they mock man's efforts to reduce their
grand chaos to order by means of classes and names. 'Centuries old are
the mountain,' and serenely unmoved, silent as the sphinx, fixed as the
rock-ribbed earth, the spell of their awful beauty yields to no
interpreter. Then, as the day slips away, and the westering sun 'seeks
the Hesperides of the silent air,' picture the multitudinous waves of
light and color sweeping over the scene, shifting slowly from peak to
peak, lending tints impossible to transfer as to depict -- an infinity
of beauty momentarily varying until the golden galleon has dipped behind
the horizon's farthest rim..."
[Elizabeth Barrett Browning quote: "Bring a red cloud from the
sun ..." 'Cave of the Winds']
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page 36 |
[The Cave; Professor Mitchell's grave;
Mitchell's Peak] |
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page 37 |
[more on Mount Mitchell; "...can see six
states"] |
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page 38 |
[more on Mount Mitchell] |
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page 39 |
HICKORY-NUT GAP.
[The Pools; Chimney Rock; High Falls; Bald Mountain]
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page 40 |
Sherrill House; Cone Peak; Hickory Creek;
Broad River; |
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page 41 |
Chimney Rock Mountain; [poetics] |
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page 42 |
High Falls; Broad River; The Pools |
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page 43 |
[description of Chimney Rock] |
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page 44 |
The Pools [Bottomless Pool, near Lake Lure].
"In the rock-lined trough of a swift-flowing creek, rushing through
this ravine, hemmed straitly [sic] on either hand by precipitate hills,
are these three natural wells or basins, hollowed smoothly and roundly
out of the solid rock to a great depth. The first pool -- perhaps fifty
yards up the stream from the point where we enter the glen, is the
smallest in circumference, but also the deepest and the most striking in
the marvelous finish of its ringed walls...." |
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page 45 |
[page missing from scan] |
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page 46 |
The Pools. "...Indian lovers who found a
common grave in its deep waters is recounted anew, and lends a lacking
significance to its impenetrable depths. Pursued by the warring
pale-faces -- so runs the story -- and pressed through the forest they
knew not whither, a sudden juncture the panting fugitives found
themselves upon the brink of the cliff over-looking the pool ; with the
alternative of surrender, or death by a leap. 'Locked in one another's
arms, and silent in a last embrace,' they chose the latter, and as the
astonished pursuers followed close upon their track they found only the
troubled, heaving water to tell their fate. Credulity may revolt after
leaving the haunted spot ; now it lends itself a willing victim to
traditional suggestions or fancy's lightest whisper. Gazing into those
darkly-green uncanny waters, a thousand mysteries seemed locked in their
invoilate keeping." ... Bear Wallow Mountain ; Sugar-loaf ;
Pinnacles. |
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page 47 |
Pinnacles ; Bald ; Round-top Mountain ;
Harris's Stand ; Chimney-Rock House ; Rumbling Bald ; Hendersonville ;
Hickory Nut Gap ; Reedy-Patch Gap ; Broad River ; Rutherfordton .
"Beyond the house on the right is the rumbling Bald. The curious in
such matters will find interest in the long seam or fissure that rends
the mountain from base almost to the summit, several feet in width, and
of great depth. Near by, dark abrasures [sic] in the rock are windows of an
extensive adjacent cave within the mountain ; but so dark and little
explored are its recesses that few will care to venture. It has been
suggested that the loud rumbling of the Bald originates in the fall and
reverberation of heavy fragments of granite in this cave. The noises and
jar, of whatever origin, have been heard or felt at a great distance,
eighteen or twenty miles away." ... |
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page 48-50 |
Point Lookout --- Caesar's Head. |
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page 51 |
CAESAR'S HEAD
"Beauty -- a living presence of the earth
Pitches her tents before me as I move,
An hourly neighbor."
A Bold Headland, a noble summit, an outlying spur of the Blue Ridge --
such are some of the descriptive epithets aplied to that splendid
eminence, Caesar's Head, forming the apex of a triangular curve of its
range at the southern extremity of Transylvania ; the Head itself
stretching across the South Carolina line, and sweeping with its
illimitable outlook all the lowlands that vision can comprehend, in
addition to the tangled maze of mountains, stretching from its right far
in its rear, in long. irregular loops. ..." |
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page 52 |
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page 53 |
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page 54 |
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page 55 |
[Trout fishing.] "In the dark linn at the
foot of Great Falls, a line of fifty or sixty feet may be cast, and the
speckled beauties rise gaily to the fly, or more readily, perhaps --
perverted taste! -- to the bug or worm. A better idea of the immense
rocks of the river's basin may be formed by walking behind the flowing
sheet of Bridal Vail. The massive ledge holding out the Vail projects in
a broad shelf from its granite bed, and under this shelf, with the
deafening water as an outer wall, we may cross to the opposite bank. The
Rocky way under foot is damp with filtering water, slimy with moss, and
interrupted by small pools ; but fortified with stout boots and
water-proof, the discomfort is trifling, the slight stimulus of
adventure agreeable, and the view from the opposite bank the
reward."... Bridal Vail [sic] Falls ; Buck Forest ; Caesar's
Head |
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page 56 |
Caesar's Head. "Still ascending in easy
slopes, almost as elevated it seems as those misty towers on the right,
a final climb gains a comparative level, where, driving westward a short
distance, the vehicles are abandoned, and a few steps conduct the
traveller to the cliff. It is not so much the altitude of this wonderful
Head -- though that is considerable, forty-five hundred feet -- as its
peculiar outlying prominence that commands for it such a marvellous
[sic] outlook. Jutting out from its range in this ledge the rock
suddenly breaks off into a sheer, vertical edge, falling hundreds and
hundreds of feet below (three thousand, it is claimed) to the plains of
South Carolina. If only vision would hold out, the entire State would
unroll as a map with a boundary-line of the far Atlantic. Southward no
range or peak interferes with the compassless sweep of sight ; only hill
or plain in endless succession, under the vibrating light, till the
misty curtain of distance shuts off the view."... Dismal Forest
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page 57 |
"'...like sighing in a dream,' echoes
across from Saluda Gorge, where the South Fork makes its long descent.
"'I should like to be brought to Caesar's Head to die! exclaimed
an enthusiastic beholder (feminine it is needless to add), and perhaps
this heartfelt sentiment may suggest to the uninitiated something of the
exaltation this place inspires. Beauty without dross or blemish lies
around ; earth and its heavy cares drop from us like a garment ; heaven
bends encouragingly near, and eternity seems symbolized in the endless
space or the spherical roll of sparkling ether."
Caesar's Head Hotel "... only a quarter of a mile from the
Head..."
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page 58 |
Caesar's Head. "...Its perfect immunity
from hay-fever will commend it to all suffers from that fashionable ill,
or its allies, rose-cold, etc. ; and for the weak throat or chest, the
overworked brain, or wearied nerves, it is a healing balm. Throughout
the season a succession of visitors come and go, many remaining for
weeks ; and the secret of its popularity is easily comprehended.
...Tempting little paths descend on either side of the Head, amid a
lovely confusion of rocks and trees. One of these on the left, conducts
to the great cleft in the face of the cliff known as Caesar's
Mouth."
"No satisfactory origin of the name can be traced. The
christeners must have held liberal ideas of great Caesar, thus to
magnify his proportions in this grim effigy of stone."
..."Several miles in a north-west direction, down a shaded pass
of the same name, the Saluda Falls make their dizzy journey from the
upper world..." |
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page 59 |
Bridal Vail Falls. "It is the freshness,
the daring, the joyous confidence of youth that speaks in this mountain
stream...."
The thermometer at Caesar's Head ranges during the summer months from
50 to 70 [degrees] ; average 60 [degrees] ; temperature of water from 52
to 54 [degrees]..." |
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page 60 |
HAYWOOD WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS
"...No more striking example of this need be instanced than the
Haywood White Sulpher Springs -- in the midst of the Great Balsam
Mountains. Under the shelter of cool hills, and guarded by titan peaks,
this perpetual curative fountain bubbles up in a lovely highland valley
at an elevation of two thousand seven hundred and seventeen feet -- its
medicinal powers strongly developed and attested, and assisted by the
tonic of a pure atmosphere and the native beauty of its environment.
Thirty-eight miles south of the Warm Springs, and thirty-two west of
Asheville ..." |
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page 61 |
Pisgah. "The range of Pisgah that, from
its height, rich coloring, and peculiar marked outline, has grown
familiar to the sojourner at Asheville, apparently intervenes midway ;
but so sharply does its line dent in a synclinal gap, fifteen miles from
town, that no climbing is needed, beyond the ordinary succession of
hills, incident to this rolling country."...
"...Directly at the foot of this shorn summit is the excellent
wayside house, Valley Farm, where the traveller may always reckon upon
that desideratum, a well-cooked meal neatly served. This is the usual
dinner-house, or midway resting place ; and with its abundant orchard
and stock-yard, Valley Farm typifies the rural plenty that the sharpened
appetite fully appreciates. .." |
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page 62 |
Waynesville ; White Haywood Springs ;
"The immediate surroundings of the Springs are most attractive. The
two main buildings, and small cottages rise from a lawn of several
acres' extent, green with turf, and shaded by a heavy growth of oaks --
a level bit of forest." ... 'Love's View' [kiosk] ; Richland Creek
; Westner Bald ; Balsam ; Richland Valley ; Pisgah ; Caney-Fork Bald ;
Lone Balsam . |
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page 63 |
Plotts Balsam ; Westner Bald ; Caney Bald ;
Cowee ; Nantehaleh ; Old Field. "...Piscator will find scope for
his craft in the deeps of Pigeon River, seven miles, or the upper waters
of Richland ; but only in that abundance satisfying to the angler's
heart in musical Catalooche, distant twenty miles.
"The Springs have only recently been opened to the public, the
present being the third season. ..." |
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page 64 |
"...The Sulphur Spring, a few yards from
the hotel, is neatly basined and sheltered ; it has an average
tempeerature of 52 [degrees]. Strong chalybeate springs in the vicinity.
It should be added that, at last year the crowd at one time exceeded
accommodations, a large addition to the hotel is completed fro the
present season, and the hotel, under different management, will be open
during the entire year." ...Waynesville ; Haywood County ;
Pigeon River |
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page 65 |
High Bluff ; Eagle Cliff ; Raven's Rest ; High
Knob |
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page 66 |
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page 67 |
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page 68 |
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page 69 |
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page 70 |
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page 68 |
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page 68 |
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page 69 |
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page 70 |
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page 71-72 |
French Broad River |
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page 73 |
WARM SPRINGS |
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page 74 |
"... celebrated wayside house,
Alexander's. |
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page 75 |
"Feathery beds of fern and the constant
wild rosebay (rhododendron), droop from the clefts, or bed richly in the
hollows between. Of the former, wrote a gifted rambler among these rocks
some years ago,* 'Although a beginner, with unskilled eyes, I collected
along the French Broad twelve different kinds --the polypody, the
maiden-hair, the bracken, Cheilanthes, the cliff-brake, the
dainty little ebony Asplenitum, the lady-fern, the Filix-mas, the
beech-fern, the Cystopteris, the martial Polystichum acrostichoids,
and the Mystery, so called because it positively refused to show
me any seeds, so that I could not analyze it.'"[* Constance F.
Woolson]
[Laurel Creek ; Walnut Mountains ; Mountain Island ; Peter's Rock ;
Lover's Leap ; Constance Woolson ] |
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page 76 |
[Warm Springs] "For years this place has
been a popular rendezvous for the people of the Gulf States ; but as each
year its accommodations are enlarged the visiting crowd seems ever on
the gain. The Warm Springs are literally warm pools rising to the
surface near the river -- the scale of heat from 102 [degrees] to 104
[degrees] Fahr. Comfortable bath-rooms enclose the basins, which make
delightful tepid baths, deep enough to support swimmers." ... |
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page 77 |
[cont. Hot and Warm Springs]
"... In addition to the invalids, a gay crowd of
pleasure-seekers annually throng the hotel. Its beautiful surroundings
of mountains, river, and creek ; its baths and mineral waters -- sulphur
and chalybeate -- and its ever-improving facilities for accommodation,
are magnets that serve their end, and draw that looked for majority at
favorite watering-places -- a crowd. Recent large additions have been
made to the hotel ; accommodation for one thousand guests, it is said,
is provided, with handsome improvement of the bathing facilities in both
hot and cold baths."
[Paint Rock ; Rich Mountain ; Deer Park ; The Chimneys ; Lover's Leap
] |
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page 78 |
"... spot owning a high promontory of
rock must stereo-type the threadbare story, with fanciful
revisions.
On this bare old rock, eighty-five feet high -- perpendicular
measurement -- only stout faith is needed to grow retrospectively
pensive over the ancient tragedy. (?) |
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page 79 |
GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY ; WITH SUGGESTIONS TO THE
SPORTSMAN.
"Perhaps a brief summary for the general reader, of the peculiar
topography of this region, Western North Carolina, followed by a few
leading hints to the sportsman, should here be added.
The general form of this great plateau (extending from
Southern Virginia to Northern Georgia, and South Carolina) "is that
of a long narrow loop, or a much flattened and somewhat distorted
ellipse, the southern half having twice the breadth of the northern. The
narrowest part of the plateau, about the Grandfather Mountain, is also
the highest, having an altitude of 3500 to 4000 feet, while the average
for the whole does not exceed 2600. The general direction of the axis of
the plateau is about E.N.E. Two-thirds of its extent, or about 5000
square miles, lie within the State territory.'"* [Kerr] ...
"'Through an extent of more than one hundred and fifty
miles, the mean height of the valleys from ..." |
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| 72 |
page 80 |
"...which the mountains rise is 2000 feet
; the mountains which reach 6000 are counted by scores, and the loftiest
peaks rise to 6700 feet ; while in the White Mountains the base is
scarcely 1000 feet, the gaps 2000, and Mount Washington, the only one
which rises above 6000, is still 400 feet below the height of the Black
Dome, of the Black Mountains.'" ...
Watauga ; Nolechucky ; Roan Mountain ; Yellow Mountains ; Black
Mountain ; Bald Mountain ; French Broad ; Big Pigeon River ; Pisgah ;
Newfound Mountains ; Great Balsam Mountains ; Tuckasegee ; Cowee (or
Cullowhee) Mountains ; Little Tennessee ; Nantehaleh [Nantahala] ; |
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page 81 |
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page 82 |
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page 83 |
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page 84 |
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page 85 |
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page 86 |
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page 87 |
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page 88 |
Advertisements for : "Caesar's Head
Hotel. The most delightful summer resort of the South. Situated upon the
summit of Caesar's Head Mountain, a spur of the Blue Ridge, 45000 feet
above tide-water. Climate unrivalled; neither dew nor frost. Perfect
immunity from Hay Fever.... F.A. Miles, M.D., Proprietor ; Gash
House, Brevard, N.C. This comfortable house for the entertainment of
visitors in open for the season of 1881. Fare first-class. Terms very
reasonable. Mrs. Gash will do all in her power for the comfort of
guests. Address: Mrs. M.A. Gash, Brevard, N.C. " |
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page 89 |
Advertisements for : "Cloudland Hotel,
Top of Roan Mountain, 6391 feet above the sea. A most extended prospect
of 50,000 square miles in seven States! ... L.B. Searle,
Proprietor, Cloudland, Mitchell County ; Haywood White Sulphur Springs.
Open all the year. Season of 1881. Thos. A. Morris, Proprietor, or W.W.
Stringfield, Waynesville, N.C. " |
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page 90 |
Advertisements for : "H.H. Lyons, Drugs,
Books, Stationery and Fancy Goods, Paints, Oils, Varnish, Window-Glass,
Asheville, N.C. ; James P. Sawyer, Dealer in General Merchandise, Public
Square, Asheville, N.C. [with] Branch Stores at Waynesville, French
Broad Bridge, Ivy, N.C." |
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page 91 |
Advertisements for : "The Arden Park
Hotel.
; Alexander's, French Broad (10 miles below Asheville) ; Buck Forest,
Transylvania County ; The Boyden House, Salisbury, N.C." |
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