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Letter II- Trip to Track Rock
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LETTER II.
Logan's Plantation, Georgia, April, 1848.
During my stay at Dahlonega I heard a good deal said about a
native wonder, called "Track Rock," which was reported to be
some thirty miles off, on the northwestern side of the Blue
Ridge Mountains. On revolving the information in my mind, I
concluded that this rock was identical with one which had been
mentioned to me by Professor James Jackson, of the University of
Georgia, and I also remembered that the Professor had shown me a
specimen of the rock he alluded to, which contained the imprint
or impression of a human foot. My curiosity was of course
excited, and I resolved to visit the natural or artificial
wonder. I made the pilgrimage on foot, and what I saw and
heard of peculiar interest on the occasion the reader will find
recorded in the present letter.
In accomplishing the trip to "Track Rock" and back again to
this place I was two days. On the first day I walked only twenty
miles, having tarried occasionally to take a pencil sketch or
hear the birds, as they actually filled the air with melody. My
course lay over a very uneven country, which was entirely
uncultivated, excepting some half dozen quiet vales, which
presented a cheerful appearance. The woods were generally
composed of oak and chestnut, and destitute to a considerable
extent of under-
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growth; the soil was composed of clay and sand, and apparently
fertile; and clear sparkling brooks intersected the country, and
were the first that I had seen in Georgia. I had a number of
extensive mountain views, which were more beautiful than
imposing; and among the birds that attracted my attention were
the red-bird, mocking-bird, quail, lark, poke, woodpecker, jay,
king-bird, crow, bluebird, and dove, together with a large
black-bird, having a red head, (apparently of the woodpecker
genus,) and another smaller bird, whose back was of a rich
black, breast a bright brown, with an occasional white feather
in its wing, which I fancied to be a species of robin. Since
these were my companions, it may be readily imagined that "pleasantly the
hours of Thalaba went by."
I spent the night at a place called "Tesantee Gap," in the
cabin of a poor farmer, where I was most hospitably entertained.
My host had a family of nine sons and three daughters, not one
of whom had ever been out of the wilderness region of Georgia.
Though the father was a very intelligent man by nature, he told
me that he had received no education, and could hardly read a
chapter in the Bible. He informed me, too, that his children
were but little better informed, and seemed deeply to regret
his inability to give them the schooling which he felt they
needed. "I have always desired," said he, "that I could live
on some public road, so that my girls might occasionally see a
civilized man, since it is fated that they will never meet with
them in society." I felt sorry for the worthy man, and
endeavored to direct his attention from himself to the
surrounding country. He told me the mountains were susceptible
of cultivation even to their summits, and that the principal
productions of his farm were corn, wheat, rye, and
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potatoes; also, that the country abounded in game, such as
deer, turkeys, and bears, and an occasional panther. Some of the
mountains, he said, were covered with hickory, and a peculiar
kind of oak, and that on said mountains gray squirrels were very
abundant. The streams, he informed me, were well supplied with
large minnows, by which I afterwards ascertained
he meant the brook trout.
While conversing with my old friend, an hour or so before
sunset, we were startled by the baying of his hounds, and on
looking up the narrow road running by his home, we saw a
fine-looking doe coming towards us on the run. In its terror the
poor creature made a sudden turn, and scaling a garden fence
was overtaken by the dogs on a spot near which the wife of my
host was planting seeds, when she immediately seized a
bean-pole, and by a single blow deprived the doe of life. In a
very few moments her husband was on the ground, and, having put
his knife to the throat of the animal, the twain re-entered
their dwelling, as if nothing had happened out of the common
order of events. This was the first deer that I ever knew to be
killed by a woman. When I took occasion to compliment the dogs
of my old friend, he said that one of them was a "powerful
runner; for he had known him to follow a deer for three days and
three nights." Having in view my future rambles among the
mountains, I questioned my companion about the snakes of this
region, and, after remarking that they were "very plenty," he
continued as follows: " But of all the snake stories you ever
heard tell of, I do not believe you ever heard of a snake fight.
I saw one, Monday was a week, between a black-racer and a
rattlesnake. It was in the road, about a mile from here, and
when I saw them the racer had the other by the back of the head,
and was
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coiling his body all around him, as if to squeeze him to death. The
scuffle was pretty severe, but the racer soon killed the fellow with
rattles, and I killed the racer. It was a queer scrape, and I reckon
you do not often see the like in your country."
I should have obtained some more mites of information from my host
had not a broken tooth commenced aching, and hurried me off to bed.
I left the habitation of my mountain friend immediately after
breakfast the following morning, and " ne'er repassed that hoary
threshold more."
On the following day I passed through the Blue Ridge, and visited
the Mecca of my pilgrimage, and was—disappointed. I was piloted to
it by a neighboring mountaineer, who remarked, "This is Track Rock,
and it's no great shakes after all." I found it occupying an
unobtrusive place by the road side. It is of an irregular form and
quite smooth, rises gradually from the ground to the height of
perhaps three feet, and is about twenty feet long by the most
liberal measurement. It is evidently covered with a great variety of
tracks, including those of men, bears or dogs, and turkeys, together
with indistinct impressions of a man's hand. Some of the impressions
are half an inch thick, while many of them appear to be almost
entirely effaced. The rock seemed to be a species of slate-colored
soapstone. The conclusion to which I have arrived, after careful
examination, is as follows: This rock is located on what was once
an Indian trail, and, having been used by the Cherokees as a resting
place, it was probably their own ingenuity which conceived and
executed the characters which now puzzle the philosophy of many men.
The scenery about Track Rock is not remarkable for its grandeur,
though you can
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hardly turn the eye in any direction without beholding an
agreeable mountain landscape. In returning through Tesantee Gap
and the valley below, I met with no adventures worth recording,
and will therefore conclude my present epistle with a paragraph
concerning the plantation where I am now tarrying.
The proprietor is an intelligent und worthy gentleman, who is
reputed to be the nabob of this region. He acquired a portion of
his wealth by digging gold, but is now chiefly devoting himself
to agriculture. He complains of the little advancement which the
people of Northern Georgia are making in the arts of husbandry,
and thinks that it would be much better for the State if the
people could be persuaded to follow the plough, instead of
wasting their time and money in searching for gold, which metal,
he seems to think, is nearly exhausted in this section of
country. Among the curious things which I have seen under his
roof, is a small but choice collection of minerals, fossil
remains, and Indian relics, belonging to his eldest son. Among
the latter may be mentioned a heavy stone pipe, made in
imitation of a duck, which was found in Macon county, North
Carolina, fifteen feet below the surface; and also a small cup,
similar to a crucible, and made of an unknown earthy material,
which was found in this county about nine feet below the
surface, and directly under a large tree. But the mail boy's
horn is blowing and I must close.
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