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Letter XVIII-
The Catawba Country |
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LETTER XVIII.
North Cove, North Carolina, June, 1848.
I now write from a log cabin
situated on the Catawba river, and in one of the most beautiful of
valleys. My ride from Ashville to Burnsville, a distance of over
forty miles, was unattended by a single interesting incident, and
afforded only one mountain prospect that caused me to rein in my horse.
But the prospect alluded to embraced the entire outline of Bald
Mountain, which, being one of the loftiest in this section of country,
and particularly barren, presented a magnificent appearance. On the
extreme summit of this mountain is a very large and an intensely cold
spring of water, and in its immediate vicinity a small cave and the
ruins of a log cabin, which are associated with a singular being, named
David Greer, who once made this upper world his home. He first appeared
in this country about fifty years ago; his native land, the story of
his birth, and his early history, were alike unknown. Soon after his
arrival among the mountains, he fell desperately in love with the
daughter of a farmer, but his suit was rejected by the maiden, and
strenuously opposed by all her friends. Soon after this disappointment
the lover suddenly disappeared, and was subsequently found residing on
Bald Mountain in the cave already mentioned. Here he lived the life of a
literary recluse, and is said to have written a |
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singular work upon religion, and another which purported to be a
treatise on human government. In the latter production he
proclaimed himself the sole proprietor of Bald Mountain, and made it
known to the world that all who should ever become his neighbors
must submit to the laws he had himself enacted. The prominent
actions of his life were "few and far between," but particularly
infamous. The first that brought him into notice was as follows: A
few years after it was ascertained that he had taken possession of
this mountain, the authorities of the county sent a messenger to
Greer, and demanded a poll-tax of seventy-five cents. The hermit
said he would attend to it on the next court-day, and his word was
accepted. On the day in question Greer punctually made his
appearance, but, instead of paying over the money, he pelted the
windows of the court-house with stones, and drove the judges,
lawyers, and clients all out of the village, and then, with rifle in
hand, returned to his mountain dwelling. For some months after this
event he amused himself by mutilating all the cattle which he
happened to discover on what he called his domain, and it is said
was in the habit of trying the power of his rifle by shooting down
upon the plantations of his neighbors. The crowning event of David
Greer's life, however, consisted in his shooting to the ground in
cold blood, and in the broad daylight, a man named Higgins. The only
excuse that he offered for committing this murder was that the
deceased had been found hunting for deer on that portion of land
which he claimed as his own. For this offence Greer was brought to
trial and acquitted on the ground of insanity. When this decision
was made known, the criminal was greatly enraged, and, when
released, started for his cabin, muttering loud and deep curses
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against the injustice of the laws. In process of time a number of
attempts were made to take his life, and it was a common occurrence
with him to be awakened at midnight by a ball passing through the
door of his cabin. After living upon the mountain for a period of
twenty years, he finally concluded to abandon his solitary life, and
took up his abode in one of the settlements on the Tennessee side of
Bald Mountain. Here, for a year or two, he worked regularly in an
iron forge, but having had a dispute with a fellow-workman, swore
that he would shoot him within five hours, and started after his
rifle. The offending party was named Tompkins, and after consulting
with his friends as to what course he ought to pursue, in view of
the uttered threat, he was advised to take the law in his own hands.
He took this advice, and, as David Greer was discovered walking
along the road with rifle in hand, Tompkins shot him through the
heart, and the burial-place of the hermit is now unknown. Public
opinion was on the side of Tompkins, and he was never summoned to
account for the defensive murder he had committed.
In coming from Burnsville to this place, I enjoyed two mountain
landscapes, which were supremely beautiful and imposing. The first
was a northern view of Black Mountain from the margin of the South
Toe river, and all its cliffs, defiles, ravines, and peaks seemed as
light, dreamlike, and airy as the clear blue world in which they
floated. The stupendous pile appeared to have risen from the earth
with all its glories in their prime, as if to join the newly-risen
sun in his passage across the heavens. The middle distance of the
landscape was composed of two wood-crowned hills which stood before
me like a pair of loving brothers, and then came a luxuriant meadow,
where a
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noble horse was quietly cropping his food; while the immediate
foreground of the picture consisted of a marvellously beautiful stream,
which glided swiftly by, over a bed of golden and scarlet pebbles. The
only sounds that fell upon my ear, as I gazed upon this scene, were the
murmurings of a distant waterfall, and the hum of insect wings.
The other prospect that I witnessed was from the summit of the Blue
Ridge, looking in the direction of the Catawba. It was a wilderness of
mountains, whose foundations could not be fathomed by the eye, while in
the distance, towering above all the peaks, rose the singular and
fantastic form of the Table Mountain. Not a sign of the breathing human
world could be seen in any direction, and the only living creature which
appeared to my view was a solitary eagle, wheeling to and fro far up
towards the zenith of the sky.
From the top of the Blue Ridge I descended a winding ravine four miles
in length, where the road, even at mid-day, is in deep shadow, and then
I emerged into the North Cove. This charming valley is twelve miles
long, from a half to a whole mile in width, completely surrounded with
mountains, highly cultivated, watered by the Catawba, and inhabited by
intelligent and worthy farmers. At a certain house where I tarried to
dine on my way up the valley, I was treated in a manner that would have
put to the blush people of far greater pretensions; and, what made a
deep impression on my mind, was the fact that I was waited upon by two
sisters, about ten years of age, who were remarkably beautiful and
sprightly. One of them had flaxen hair and blue eyes, and the other deep
black hair and eyes. Familiar as I had been for weeks past with the |
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puny and ungainly inhabitants of the mountain tops, these two human
flowers filled my heart with a delightful sensation. May the lives
of those two darlings be as peaceful and beautiful as the stream
upon which they live! The prominent pictorial feature of the North
Cove is of a mountain called the Hawk's Bill, on account of its
resemblance to the beak of a mammoth bird, the length of the bill
being about fifteen hundred feet. It is visible from nearly every
part of the valley, and to my fancy is a more picturesque object
than the Table Mountain, which is too regular at the sides and top
to satisfy the eye. The table part of this mountain, however, is
twenty-five hundred feet high, and therefore worthy of its fame.
The cabin where I am stopping at the present time is located at the
extreme upper end of the North Cove. It is the residence of the best
guide in the country, and the most convenient lodging place for
those who would visit the Hawk's Bill and Table Mountains, already
mentioned, as well as the Lindville Pinnacle, the Catawba Cave, the
Cake Mountain, the Lindville Falls, and the Roan Mountain.
The Lindville Pinnacle is a mountain peak, surmounted by a pile of
rocks, upon which you may recline at your ease, and look down upon a
complete series of rare and gorgeous scenes. On one side is a
precipice which seems to descend to the very bowels of the earth; in
another direction you have a full view of Short-off Mountain, only
about a mile off, which is a perpendicular precipice several
thousand feet high, and the abrupt termination of a long range of
mountains; in another direction still the eye falls upon a
brotherhood of mountain peaks which are particularly ragged and
fantastic in their formation—now
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shooting forward, as if to look down into the valleys, and now
looming to the sky, as if to pierce it with their pointed summits;
and in another direction you look across what seems to be a valley
from eighty to a hundred miles wide, which is bounded by a range of
mountains that seem to sweep across the world as with triumphal
march.
The Catawba Cave, situated on the Catawba river, is entered by a
fissure near the base of a mountain, and is reputed to be one mile
in length. It has a great variety of chambers, which vary in height
from six to twenty feet; its walls are chiefly composed of a porous
limestone, through which the water is continually dripping; and
along the entire length flows a cold and clear stream, which varies
from five to fifteen inches in depth. This cave is indeed a curious
affair, though the trouble and fatigue attending a thorough
exploration far outweigh the satisfaction which it affords. But
there is one arm of the cave which has never been explored, and an
admirable opportunity is therefore offered for the adventurous to
make themselves famous by revealing some of the hidden wonders of
nature.
The Ginger Cake Mountain derives its very poetical name from a
singular pile of rocks occupying its extreme summit. The pile is
composed of two masses of rock of different materials and form,
which are so arranged as to stand on a remarkably small base. The
lower section is composed of a rough slate stone, and its form is
that of an inverted pyramid; but the upper section of the pile
consists of an oblong slab of solid granite, which surmounts the
lower section in a horizontal position, presenting the appearance of
a work of art. The lower section is thirty feet in altitude, while
the upper one is thirty-two feet in length, eighteen in breadth, and
nearly two feet in thick-
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ness. The appearance of this rocky wonder is exceedingly tottleish,
and though we may be assured that it has stood upon that eminence
perhaps for a thousand years, yet it is impossible to tarry within
its shadow without a feeling of insecurity. The individual who gave
the Ginger Cake Mountain its outlandish name was a hermit named
Watson, who resided at the foot of the mountain about fifty years
ago, but who died in 1816. He lived in a small cabin, and entirely
alone. His history was a mystery to every one but himself, and,
though remarkably eccentric, he was noted for his amiability. He had
given up the world, like his brother hermit of the Bald Mountain, on
account of a disappointment in love, and the utter contempt which
he ever afterwards manifested for the gentler sex, was one of his
most singular traits of character. Whenever a party of ladies paid
him a visit, which was frequently the case, he invariably treated
them politely, but would never speak to them; he even went so far in
expressing his dislike as to consume for firewood, after the ladies
were gone, the topmost rail of his yard-fence, over which they had
been compelled to pass, on their way into his cabin. That old Watson
"fared sumptuously every day" could not be denied, but whence came
the money that supported him no one could divine. He seldom molested
the wild animals of the mountain where he lived, and his chief
employments seemed to be the raising of peacocks, and the making of
garments for his own use, which were all elegantly trimmed off with
the feathers of his favorite bird. The feathery suit in which he kept
himself constantly arrayed he designated as his culgee; the
meaning of which word could never be ascertained; and long after
the deluded being had passed away from among the living he was
spoken of as Culgee Watson, and is so remembered to this day.
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I come now to speak of the Lindville Falls, which are situated on
the Lindville river, a tributary of the beautiful Catawba. They are
literally embosomed among mountains, and long before seeing them do
you hear their musical roar. The scenery about them is as wild as it
was a hundred years ago—not even a pathway has yet been made to
guide the tourist into the stupendous gorge where they reign
supreme. At the point in question the Lindville is about one
hundred and fifty feet broad, and though its waters have come down
their parent mountains at a most furious speed, they here make a
more desperate plunge than they ever dared to attempt before, when
they find themselves in a deep pool and suddenly hemmed in by a
barrier of gray granite, which crosses the entire bed of the river.
In their desperation, however, they finally work a passage through
the solid rock, and after filling another hollow with foam, they
make a desperate leap of at least one hundred feet, and find a
resting place in an immense pool, which one might easily imagine to
be bottomless. And then, as if attracted by the astonishing feats
performed by the waters, a number of lofty and exceedingly fantastic
cliffs have gathered themselves together in the immediate
neighborhood, and are ever peering over each other's shoulders into
the depths below. But as the eye wanders from the surrounding
cliffs, it falls upon an isolated column several hundred-feet high,
around which are clustered in the greatest profusion the most
beautiful of vines and flowers. This column occupies a conspicuous
position a short distance below the Falls, and it were an easy
matter to imagine it a monument erected by Nature to celebrate her
own creative power.
With a liberal hand, indeed, has she planted her forest trees in
every imaginable place; but with a view of even sur-
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passing herself, she has filled the gorge with a variety of caverns,
which astonish the beholder, and almost cause him to dread an attack
from a brotherhood of spirits. But how futile is my effort to give
an adequate idea of the Lindville Falls and their surrounding
attractions! When I attempted to sketch them I threw away my pencil
in despair; and I now feel that I should be doing my pen a
kindness, if I were to consume what I have written. I will give this
paragraph to the world, however, trusting that those who may
hereafter visit the Lindville Falls, will award to me a little
credit for my will if not for my deed.
To be in keeping with my wayward wanderings in this Alpine
wilderness, it now becomes my duty to speak of the Roan Mountain
and the Grand Father. By actual measurement the former is only
seventy feet lower than the Black Mountain, and consequently
measures well nigh to seven thousand feet. It derives its name from
the circumstance that it is often covered with snow, and at such
times is of a roan color. It lies in the States of North Carolina
and Tennessee, and has three prominent peaks, which are all entirely
destitute of trees. The highest of them has a clearing containing
several thousand acres, and the cattle and horses of the surrounding
farmers resort to it in immense numbers, for the purpose of feeding
upon the fine and luxuriant grass which grows there in great
abundance. The ascent to the top of this peak is gradual from all
directions except one, but on the north it is quite perpendicular,
and to one standing near the brow of the mighty cliff the scene is
exceedingly imposing and fearful. That it commands an uninterrupted
view of what appears to be the entire world, may be readily
imagined. When I was there I observed no less than three thunder
storms
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performing their uproarious feats in three several valleys, while
the remaining portions of the lower world were enjoying a deep blue
atmosphere. In visiting Roan Mountain you have to travel on
horseback, and, by starting at the break of day, you may spend two
hours on the highest peak, and be home again on the same evening
about the sunset hour.
In accounting for the baldness which characterizes the Roan
Mountain, the Catawba Indians relate the following tradition: There
was once a time when all the nations of the earth were at war with
the Catawbas, and had proclaimed their determination to conquer and
possess their country. On hearing this intelligence the Catawbas
became greatly enraged, and sent a challenge to all their enemies,
and dared them to a fight on the summit of the Roan. The challenge
was accepted, and no less than three famous battles were fought—the
streams of the entire land were red with blood, a number of tribes
became extinct, and the Catawbas carried the day. Whereupon it was
that the Great Spirit caused the forests to wither from the three
peaks of the Roan Mountain where the battles were fought; and
wherefore it is that the flowers which grow upon this mountain are
chiefly of a crimson hue, for they are nourished by the blood of
the slain.
One of the finest views from the Roan Mountain is that of the Grand
Father, which is said to be altogether the wildest and most fantastic
mountain in the whole Alleghany range. It is reputed to be 5,600
feet high, and particularly famous for its black bears and other
large game. Its principal human inhabitants, par excellence, for
the last twenty years, have been a man named Jim Riddle, and his
loving spouse, whose cabin was near its summit. A more sue-
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cessful hunter than Jim never scaled a precipice; and the stories
related of him would fill a volume. One of the funniest that I now
remember, is briefly as follows:—
He was out upon a hunting expedition, and having come to one of his bear
traps, (made of logs, weighing about a thousand pounds, and set with a
kind of figure four,) the bait of which happened to be misplaced, he
thoughtlessly laid down his gun, and went under the trap to arrange the
bait. In doing this, he handled the bait hook a little too roughly, and
was consequently caught in the place of a bear. He chanced to have a
small hatchet in his belt, with which, under every disadvantage, he
succeeded in cutting his way out. He was one day and one night in doing
this, however, and his narrow escape caused him to abandon the habit of
swearing, and become a religious man.
To the comprehension of Jim Riddle, the Grand Father was the highest
mountain in the world. He used to say that he had read of the Andes,
but did not believe that they were half as high as the mountain on which
he lived. His reason for this opinion was, that when a man stood on the
top of the Grand Father, it was perfectly obvious that "all the other
mountains in the world lay rotting from it, even to the sky."
Jim Riddle is said to have been a remarkably certain marksman; and one
of his favorite pastimes in the winter, was to shoot at snow-balls. On
these occasions, his loving wife, Betsey, was always by his side, to
laugh at him when he missed his mark, and to applaud when successful.
And it is reported of them, that they were sometimes in the habit of
spending entire days in this elevated recreation. But |
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enough; Jim Riddle is now an altered man. His cabin has long since been
abandoned, and he has become a travelling preacher, and is universally
respected for his amiability, and matter-of-fact intelligence. |
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