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Lindseys Guide Book to Western North Carolina, Illustrated. Asheville, The Randolph-Kerr Printing Company, 1890. |
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In and around Asheville and their distance. NAME OF PLACE. MILES, Battery Park..........................................in the Citv. The Lindsey & Brown Scenic Studio...... " " Beaumont, (altitude nearly 2,800 ft.)... " " Top of Town Mountain....................................... 1 Fernihurst, (Connally's View)............................ 2 Hazzard Heights.................................................. 3 Riverside Park,..:....:........................................... 3 Tahkeeostee Farm............................................... 3 Richmond Hill, (Pearson's View)....................... 4 Gouche's Peak, (Reynolds' View)....................... 5 Elk Mountain...................................................... 5 Tennessee View.................................................... 5 Sunset Drive...... ................................................. 1 Strawberry Hill,................................................. 4 French Broad River, nearest point........................ 1 " " drive of more than.... ........ 50 Swannanoa River, nearest point............................ 2 drive of............................... 12 Lee's Chalybeate Springs, (Iron)........................ 2 Asheville Sulphur Springs................................... 5 Blackwell's White Sulphur Springs.................... 12 Arden Park........................................................ 10 Reems' Creek Falls............................................ 10 Alexander's, by rail........................................... 10 Craggy Mountain, to foot.................................. 14 to top, [altitude 6,000 ft.].. 18 Mount Mitchell, to foot.................................... 18 to top, [altitude 6,717 ft.].... 28 Hot Springs...................................................... 37 Havwood White Sulphur Springs................... 31 Hickory Nut Falls.......................................... 22 Bald Mountain, of volcanic notoriety.............. 25 Cave of the Winds, Pools, Chimney Rock, etc.... 25 Mount Pisgah, [altitude 5,757]...................... 20 Caesar's Head.................................................... 45 Skyland Springs................................................ 8 Oakland Institute........................................... 17 Vanderbilt Park................................................ 4 Smith's Mountain............................................. 2 |
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| Title page |
LINDSEY'S Asheville, the Randolph-Kerr Printing Company, 1890. |
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| Map | Map of the Resorts of Western North Carolina, Their
Altitude and Distance from Asheville. Engraved especially for Lindsey's Guide Book. Please observe that this map is drawn LOOKING SOUTH. |
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| Introd. | Introduction |
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PAGE. Asheville.................................................................. 13 Alexander's............................................................... 48 Arden Park............................................................... 54 Altitudes .................................................................. 70 Beaucatcher Mountain................................................ 28 Chimney Rock........................................................ 44 Cherokee Indians........................................................ 66 Comparative Mortality Among Consumptives........... 75 'Caesar's Head............................................................. 56 Distances and Railroad Fare........................................ 72 Elk Mountain............................................................. 32 Fruit Growing ........................................................... 28 ''Fernihurst"—Connally's .......................................... 30 French Broad River.............:..................................... 37 Franklin ................................................................... 53 Gouche's Peak........................................................... 31 Gombroon ................................................................. 61 Hot Springs................................................................ 40 Hickory Nut Gap........................................................ 43 Highlands................................................................... 52 Hendersonville .......................................................... 55 Mount Mitchell.......................................................... 59 Mount Pisgah ............................................................ 50 Paint Rock................................................................. 41 Places of interest first inside cover...............inside cover. Richmond Hill .......................................................... 30 Racing Waters—Poem ............................................. 37 Round Knob .............................................................. 41 Roan Mountain.......................................................... 48 |
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CONTENTS—continued. Rainfall................................................................ 74 Swannanoa Drive .............................................. 32 Swannanoa River Poem...................................... 33 Sulphur Springs................................................... 35 Skyland Springs................................................. 58 Sunset Drive........................................................ 29 Smith's Mountain.............................................. 29 The "Land of the Sky"....................................... 3 Town Mountain .................................................. 29 Tahkeeostee ......................................................... 32 Temperature.......................................................... 74 Waynesville ........................................................... 51 Weaverville........................................................... 36 BETWEEN, [ILLUSTRATIONS] Battery Park Hotel .......................................... 28—29 French Broad Valley......................................... 4—5 French Broad from Richmond Hill..................... 30—31 Gombroon ........................................................ 60— 61 Grand Central Hotel........................................... 16—17 Hickory Nut Gap............................................... 42—43 Mount Mitchell ................................................ 58—59 Mountain Park Hotel....................................... 40—41 Oakland Institute ............................................. 48—49 Post Office and Custom House ........................ 24—25 South Main Street ....................................... .... 12—13 Scene on the Swannanoa.............................. .... 34—35 Swannanoa Hotel.................................. .......... 22—23 View on Court Square............................ ....... 8—9 Winyah House ..................................... .......... 10—11 |
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That must be a favored region which, alone of all the beautiful domains on the earth that lie spread under the broad canopy of the heavens, has been distinguished by so significant a title as that of "Land of the Sky." It must have been marked by some wonderful atmospheric . peculiarities which authorized kinship with the cerulean curtain above; it must have had charms of climate which breathed out the unsullied purity of the realms that lay encurtained in the skies; and it must have included scenery so sublime and so beautiful as would be appropriate to name in connection with the skies; for, to the skies, are uplifted all the sentiments of love and adoration and veneration; and to the skies cannot ascend meaner or more ignoble emotions. To us, the "Land of the Sky" is a limited and well-defined expression. The fervor of enthusiasm in the worship of nature has given to it substantial and well recognized metes and bounds; and poetry, not perhaps in verse, but in language with all the elements and inspiration of poetry, has given it "a local habitation and a name;" a name as fixed and characteristic as that of fabled El Dorado; but unlike that name that danced like baleful ignus fetuus before the heated imagination filled with the story of gold and boundless treasure, leading to disappointment and to death, this name is irradiated with truthful glow, lighting the path to health and peaceful competence, the reward, not of avarice, but of honest labor or judicious enterprise. |
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Is the Land of the Sky mis-named? And are the suggestions of the name misleading and deceptive? Let us see what is the "Land of the Sky." Along the northern boundary of North Carolina and, as that boundary touches the western extreme of Virginia, two mountain chains present themselves with purpose to cross into our territory. One of them, the eastern, has begun its journey in far away Labrador; and, skirting along the Eastern United States, by various names known in Vermont, New York and Pennsylvania, takes in Virginia the name it holds until it goes out into Georgia—the familiar Blue Ridge. The other beginning in New York State, rises in Western Virginia into dignity and grandeur, and comes to our borders under the name of Alleghany or Appalachian; and looking over into our territory, makes no further inward progress, but sweeps along the margin, a wall between us and Tennessee, until, in the southwestern corner of the State, it joins and blends with the Blue Ridge, the two ranges in their divided courses having encircled a high plateau, the true mountain region of Western North Carolina, known as the "Land of the Sky." Crossed and interlaced by numerous cross chains of equal altitude, this broken elevated plateau is indented with innumerable streams, sparkling rivulets, dashing in foaming cascades or tumbling over opposing cliffs in noisy cataracts. Over all this mountain and sylvan scene there is spread the bluest and most transparent of skies, the fountain of the purest and most exhilarating of atmospheres, a delight to inhale, a very luxury to breathe. Here are no sultry nights, for when the sun lays down his scepter, then comes with the shades of evening down from the mountain top or out from the deep recesses of its rocky gorges the most healthful and delicious of atmospheres. Between these mountains and each mountain spur are |
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| ILLUS. | lind_il_0001 | French Broad Valley |
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valleys as beautiful as ever charmed the eye, and over all sweeps the delighted vision, and treasures up the impressions made by mountain and valley; by the dark timbers of the primeval forest; by the sunlight as it gloriously lights up the whole; by the shadow of the cloud as it flits by hill and vale; by dark and threatening clouds enveloping all in gloom; by gentle mists that shroud in veil; by the deep rich green that rebes the nearer view; by the soft azure that melts away in distance. And that delighted eye pays willing tribute to the scene, because it truly dwells upon "The Land of the Sky." Here you see fertile valleys, where cereals and fruits cheer the heart of man, while the circling mountains shut out the rest of the world from your vision.
The whole of this system of mountain and valley ; more largely of the mountain, for in the great tumultuous upheaval the mountains seemed to crowd upon each other in emulous rage, and leave but little suggestion of peace and order. But time, which tempers all things, not only smoothed their rugged brows and clothed the rocks with massive verdure, but spread out the valleys as pretty peace offerings to angered nature. Among these many mountain chains arise the highest peaks along the Atlantic slope. The Black Mountain range is a distinct and independent chain, and is the oldest land upon the American continent according to geological dictum, in a distance of thirty miles containing nineteen peaks passing the elevation of 6,000 feet, the |
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highest, Mt. Mitchell, being 6,717 feet. In the balsam range there are fifteen peaks exceeding 6,000 feet, the highest being Richland Balsam, 6,425 feet high. In the Smoky Mountains along the Tennessee borders there are twenty peaks over 6,000 feet high, the tallest of which is Clingman's Dome, 6,666 feet high. The Cowee range has a mean elevation of about 4,300 feet, the highest, Yellow Mountains, being 5,133 feet high. The Nantahala range has a mean elevation of about 5,000 feet, with peaks, the Standing Indian and Wayah Bald among them, rising to the height of near. 5,500. The Valley River Mountains have a mean height of 4,000 feet, with peaks, the Tusquittee among them, 5,314 feet high.* The Blue Ridge has a mean elevation of about 4,000 feet, the Grandfather rising to a height of 5,897 feet, and the Pinnacle to about the same. There are fifty-seven mountains in North Carolina above 6,000 feet high. Many rising much higher, the average of the whole chain exceeding 5,000 feet. This is only a general and partial view of heights and elevations which are common to all Western North Carolina. Many more illustrations, if needed, might be given. Now we speak of characteristics. As a general feature, all these mountains have gently rounded summits, and in perspective view present a graceful, undulating outline. Rarely are these summits crowned with naked rock; and precipice and yawning chasm present themselves only where the Blue Ridge line looks down into South Carolina, where they seem to recoil back from their Southern trend, and lift their haughty and majestic front in stately crag or beetling precipice. All else is clothed in herbage. Some heights are prairie summits, thick set with turf. Most all are covered with majestic trees, |
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and the highest of them are all crowned with the Canada balsam. The sides of the mountains are hidden beneath a thick vesture of foliage; and they are seamed with many a rift and gorge, the secret birthplace and nursery of the glittering stream that in the shade of laurel and ivy comes sparkling into life and goes dancing down the mountain side to join the many kindred rivulets that combine to send their tribute to the Gulf and Ocean. But eye alone must not appeal for pleasure; that by itself could not confirm the blessed title. There must be something in the air we breathe, some life-giving principle more powerful than external charm. And this is had .in climate. Here in this Land of the Sky, is the happy juste melleu between the colds of northern regions, and the enervations of the lower latitude. The colds of winter come sometimes upon this region as sharp, when measured by the readings of the mercury, as farther North, yet so tempered by the dryness of the air as to be borne without suffering; and the heat of a summer sun beats down as fiercely as at a lower level, yet does not heat the air to sultriness, and the evening shades bring back coolness, and the night breathes invigoration, and the morning air is like an inhalation from paradise. The winters bring no loads of snow; enough to give enchanting wonders to a mountain landscape; not enough to be the burden and the bane of winter. And the summer heat brings with it no tornado or cyclone, no all-destroying tempest, no parching droughts and few destructive rains. We have now shown how well in scenery, in tree and in flower, and in the charms of climate this land is entitled to its happy cognomen, "The Land of the Sky," we shall now turn our attention in a more scientific direction. How much might science find to attract and repay it here? What secrets of past ages might not be
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revealed to the geologist by these great mountains, the oldest in the world, which stood firm during the period of the upheavals and subsidences of the crust of the earth? Where rocks of the Archean or earliest age lie exposed, and where the history of the physical world can be traced in its successive formations. What fascinations might not the true lover of nature find in unveiling the mysteries hidden in the depths of these trackless forests, whose regions of vast extent are known. If only to the hunter and the game he seeks? How few of the hundreds of mountains that cover the country with infinitely varied beauty have ever been ascended, examined or scientifically measured? And to the mineralogist this land should prove a very garden of Aladdin. From the beautiful flesh and rose colored marbles of the Nantahala, to the great iron deposits of Cranberry, what fields for mineral exploration exist to tempt scientist and capitalist? About 160 varieties of minerals are found here, many of them very rare, and some not discovered hitherto or elsewhere in America. Large deposits of gold, silver, iron, copper, zinc, mica and corundum abound. In Clay county is found the greatest mass of chrysolite rock in the United States, the area covered being 1,400 acres. Corundum has been found here in masses weighing as much as 600 pounds. The Cranberry iron mine, in Mitchell county, is one of the most remarkable iron deposits in America, and equal to the best Swede. The ore is a pure massive granular magnetite. The steep slope of the mountain and ridges which the bed occupies are covered with blocks of ore. Some weighing hundreds of pounds, and at places, bare vertical walls of massive ore 10 to 15 feet thick are exposed and, over several acres, the solid ore is found every where near the surface. The length of the out-crop is 1,500 feet, and the width 200 to 800 feet." (State Geological Report.) At Ore Knob, the deposit of ore in |
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| ILLUS. | lind_il_0002 | View on Court Square |
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quantity and quality, is said to rival that of Lake Superior. The mica mines of this region are very valuable, and it is a curious fact that those which are most profitable at the present time bear evidence of having been worked at some former remote period—probably by the pre-historic race of mound builders. The mica mining has brought to light a great many new mineral species. Sa3^s Professor Kerr: "The mica mines carry a larger number of rare and complex combinations than those of any other description. The corundum mines in the chrysolite ledges have also added to the catalogue a number of rare minerals, and some new to science." Concerning diamonds, we are told that "this rare gem has been repeatedly found in North Carolina," although no attempt has ever been made to prosecute a search for it. Various diamonds are described, some perfect crystals of the first water, and an instance is recorded of a beautiful black diamond found by some persons while washing for gold. Many other gems have been discovered—those of the first order sparingly, but the inferior stones, in large quantities. Emeralds, rubies, sapphires and amethysts have been found in various places: but beryl, garnet, tourmaline, chalcedony and chrysolite are widely distributed', and the first two are described as existing in beautiful crystals, some of which weigh as much as ten pounds. In one of the counties east of the Blue Ridge the first regular mining for gems ever undertaken was almost immediately rewarded by the finding of the new and beautiful stone "hiddenite" or alithia-emerald. Of this stone Mr. G. P. Kunz, in a paper read before the New York Academy of Science, says: "Lithia-ernerald or hiddenite is to the species spaldutnene precisely what emerald is to the species beryl, it is today not only the most |
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beautiful of American gems, but like the emerald, has taken its place among the gems of the highest rank and value. As regards value, it has been sold for the price of diamonds of equal size. This is the first purely American gem, and its remarkable beauty merits the highest praise." When one considers that, looking back through ages to the dimness of historic twilight, we find the great gems of the first order as we know them now, the most enthusiastic mineralogist could scarcely have hoped that the old earth would, at this period of her existance,4 yield out of her bosom a newer sister for these royal stones. But since this has come to pass, what other marvels may not be hidden in these mild and beautiful fastnesses,. where nature herself seems to meet us face to face and welcome us to a land where she has lavished everything that is her's to give? For no treasure, were it of "gold and a multitude of jewels," could surpass that which the country already possesses in its incomparable natural beauty. But let the lover of nature and science go forth into the wilds which surround him and invite him with such irresistible fascination, and if he be a true lover, he will find nothing to deter, but much to interest at every step. He will soon perceive that the vast chains of the Blue Ridge and the great Smoky, which encircle this "Land of the Sky"—the Blue Ridge bending like a bow, the Smoky forming the string to the bow, are but its outward ramparts. Between them lies an elevated region 250 miles in length, with an average width of 50 miles, across which runs several great chains of heights. From the latter, spurs lead off in all directions, while between them are valleys of exquisite beauty and rare fertility through each valley sweeps a noble river, fed by a hundred minor tributaries, on its way to the great Smoky. For the Blue Ridge, despite its lesser elevation, is the |
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| lind-il_0003 | Winyah House, Asheville, N.C. |
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watershed of the region, and is not severed by a single stream, while the more massive barrier of the western chain is torn asunder by the great rivers that cut their way through it in gorges of wild sublimity. The two great encircling ranges, after embracing this region in a 'wide sweep, draw near to each other in the northeastern extremity of Mitchell county, where, with- in a short distance, stand two famous heights, which Professor Guiot has called "the two great pillars on both sides of the North Gate to the high mountain region of North Carolina"—the Grandfather, the highest peak of the Blue Ridge, and the majestic Roan of the Smoky—while between them stands the transverse upheaval known as Yellow mountain. In the beautiful valleys that lie between this height and the massive chain of the Black mountains flow those crystal streams which are the head-waters of the Nolechucky (sic). Beyond the Black, comes the widest and longest of mountain valleys, that of the beautiful and famous French Broad, which after uniting its three forks in the upper end of Transylvania county, flows through an Arcadian valley, abounding in fertile loveliness and framed by azure heights, until at Asheville it enters among the hills, through which it cuts its way in a constantly deepening gorge for thirty-eight miles, meriting well its Cherokee name, Tahkeeostee, "Racing River." Going westward from Asheville, and crossing the New-found mountains, the traveler is in the high valley of Hay wood county, through which winds the lovely Hg-ean river. The country is of a fertility equal to its beauty. It is impossible to imagine anything more charming —blending of pastoral gentleness with the boldest and grandest features of mountain scenery—for here rises, near at hand, the great chain of the Balsam. Following the beautiful valley of the Pigeon and its |
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tributaries into the noble heights where they rise, one is surrounded by immense forest-clad mountains, of which the peaks lift their heads more than 6,000 feet in upper air, when mighty escarpments of rock contrast with infinitely rich and varied verdure of the virgin wilderness, and where, in trackless gorges and deep chasms, the roar of unseen cataracts alone breaks the silence of solitude. Beyond this massive range, which for forty-five miles presents a barrier that no waters pierce, is another infinitely diversified mountain and valley and stream. This is the valley of the Tennessee and its great tributaries, the Tuckaseege, the Nantihala [sic] and the Oconalufta. The last named, one of the loveliest of mountain rivers, flows through the rich land of the Indian reservation—for here 50,000 acres of the finest lands in Western Carolina, are secured by the State to the Eastern band of Cherokees— and empties into the Tuckaseege just before the latter river joins the Tennesssee, Among these heights the crystal river, swift as an arrow for the most part, has many vicissitudes and wears many different aspects; now leaping down a wild gorge in stupendous falls, and again flowing through a beautiful and romantic valle3r overlooked by wooded hills. But in the Nantahala is to be found the most picturesque river of all this region, Its name signifies, in the Cherokee tongue, "Noonday sun," from the fact that the mountains stand so closely about it that the sunlight only strikes it during tile middle of the day. This river is in Macon county, and during most of its course it flows' at the feet of precipitous crags, through vast forests and down inaccessible slopes. A traveler thus describes a view of its valley after crossing Red Marble Gap: "The first view of it will cause you to rise in your stirrups. It is a narrow valley with one farm house lying in the foreground. Around it rises |
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| ILLUS. | lind_il_0003 | South Main Street |
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massive mountain walls perfectly perpendicular, veiled in woods and in height fully 2,000 feet. Directly before you is a parting of the tremendous ranges, and through this steep-sided gap, purple lines of mountains rising one behind the other, bar the vision. The picture of these far away ranges in the subdued coloring of distance, is of inspiring grandeur. The river is unseen at this point, but if the Cheowah mountain road is ascended, its white line of waters will be visible as it issues from the wild gorge at the head of the valley, and bickering along .between wood-fringed banks, at length disappears in the wilderness leading toward the great gap." But it would extend the present article far beyond the limit possible to allow in this little book, to describe in detail the varied, picturesque scenes which this beautiful and as yet only partially explored country contains. A volume would be requfred to do them justice. We shall now devote our space to a description of the different places of interest—to the tourist and the health seeker—their attractions and how to reach them, &c, &c. The history of this beautiful little mountain city, dates back to about the year 1812, when it was known only as a trading post, where the red men and the palefaces would assemble to trade and barter and drink whiskey, and otherwise amuse themselves. About the year 1833 the town was incorporated under the name of Morristown. This name was afterwards dropped and the name of Asheville given to the place in honor of Samuel Ashe, of New Hanover. For more than a quarter of a century, Asheville was nothing more than a sleepy little mountain village with but few attractions, and known as a summer resort only to a few wealthy Southerners, who made their way each year across the mountains in their private conveyances |
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or in the old mountain stage coaches, to spend the summer at some of the fine watering places in the neighborhood. It was not until about 1882 when the first railroad was completed to the town, that Asheville began to be known to any very great extent; numbering at that time only about 2,506 souls. About this time a new era dawned, and new life and energy was enthused into the sleepy old town. Capitalists and health seekers began pouring in and have continued to come, until millions of capital have been invested, and thousands of health seekers have flocked here from all parts of the country and have invested and located permanently. The location of Asheville seems to have been designed by nature for man's happiness; when weary and tired, the man of business may rest and recuperate his worn out energies in order to prepare for the duties of life devolving upon him. Situated at an elevation of 2.250 feet above tide-water, with the beautiful Swannanoa and French Broad rivers flowing at its feet, while on every hand towering mountains pierce the clouds, and genial, soft, yet bracing atmosphere, in the midst of enchanting scenery. This fair ''Land of the Sky," has been theinspi-ration of the romancer's pen and the artist's pencil. No other spot combines so fine a climate, an air so pure and invigorating, and scenery so charming and picturesqe. Rev, Dr. T. Dewitt Talmage, who recently spent several months here, in conversation with a reporter, gave expression to the following about Asheville: "The pen of a Longfellow or the brush of a Messonier, cannot do it justice. Here I sit and watch nature in "all her grand formations. Wonderfully grand and majestic, these silent sentinels of God's own handiwork; beautiful and charming, these fertile valleys, ripe with the golden grain of harvest-time, refreshing and soothing these mountain |
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streams of line crystaline water, wending their way to the ports of commerce, navigation and trade; restful and passive, this skyline, with panoramas of floating beauty in ever changing clouds; recuperative and health-restoring, this oxygenated and balsamic air fresh and uncontamiriated, giving new zest to life and building tip worn out tissues of the human frame. "It is indeed a garden of recuperation. All the conditions seem favorable. If there is anyone who is so constituted that enjoyment can be had in life and can't find it here, rest assured that such a person will not be able to find enjoyment in heaven when he gets there. What more can one ask for than .healthful climate, pure air, good water, unsurpassed scenery and congenial people ? Western North Carolina today offers more solid comfort, hope and happiness to the invalid and health-seeker, than the whole Materm Medica. from the time of Escalapins down to the present time. To sum up the whole matter in a nut shell, here is a section, grand, healthy and mountainous, that must of necessity command a large influx of emigration; a section in which nature has done everything and offers every essential to human happiness. The woods, the vales, the running streams, stand in their primitive and lovely, but rough grandeur In these secluded vales, beneath the highest mountains in the United States east of the Rockies, are homes ready for the hardy emigrant who desires to find a spot similar to the haunts of his infancy?-, where he may fruitfully expend the labor of his manhood and pass his after years in peace and prosperity. Asheville has now a population of over 10,000, and with her present railroad facilities—there being four lines leading into the city—the trip to Asheville can be made in Pullman Palace Cars with as much ease and comfort |
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as in any part of the country, it being only seventeen hours ride from Washington or Cincinnati. The approach from either direction is through some of the most magnificent scenery on the continent. From the East the route presents a series of pictures full of the wildest grandeur. At Morganton the panorama begins. Two giant rocks, either one four thousand feet in height, stand like mighty sentinels on each side of the Linville river, which here escapes from between their granite walls. Passing on through the valley of the Catawba, the native habitat of the grape of that name, the scenery becomes even, more wild and broken. But nearer the summit of the Blue Ridge there bursts upon the view a scene which for picturesqueness and grandeur is not surpassed in America. We see a pile of lofty mountains whose sides are clothed from base to dome in evergreen pines and balsams. Down the mountain-sides leap streams of clearest water, forming a succession of beautiful cascades and quiet pools. Here the railroad climbs by a tortuous path, winding over trestles, through tunnels and along shelving rocks, in its panting journey to the summit, where the waters part which flow to the Atlantic shore and to the Gulf. At this point the train passes through a tunnel 1,800 feet long, from which it emerges to make the descent of the western slope. Now it rapidly gliders down the valley crossing and recrossing at intervals the romantic Swanna-noa. It sweeps round the curve formed by the meeting of the Welters of the French Broad with those of the former stream, and soon draws up at the depot, where numerous busses and carriages and electric railway cars, are in waiting to bear the expectant traveler to his mountain home. Or, if we approach Asheville from the West, having come from Cincinnati or Louisville, the trip is no less charming. Forty miles away the train enters the grand |
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| ILLUS. | between 16-17 lind_il_0004 |
Grand Central Hotel |
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canon of the French Broad, so narrow in places that the jealous river will scarcely permit the passage of the iron track. Hemmed in by wall and water the train sweeps by palisades, painted rocks, river islands, and the famous Warm Springs, where -water warm enough for a baby's bath boils out of the bubbling sands forming inviting pools. In the ride up the valley of the French Broad, the rapid river, famed for its romantic scenery, is seldom lost to sight, but presents ever-changing views of most enchant-. , ing beauty. It is its pleasant and salubrious climate, together with magnificent and attractive mountain scenery, which makes Asheville such a popular resort for invalids and tourists. It is far enough South to insure a mild winter, while its altitude is so great as to create a cool summer. Thus this favored spot is the only one in this country which invites both the summer and winter visitor, and offers a pleasant residence throughout the entire year. The mountain region of Western North Carolina, has long been favorably known for its healthful climate, especially for its beneficial effects, in pulmonary affections, and there are many people now living here who came ten, twenty, and some even a greater number of years ago, in various stages of pulmonary disease, and after recovering chose it as their permanent home. It is, however, only within the last few years that its fame has become very widespread, but so rapidly has it grown in popular favor that its position as a resort is already well established, and hundreds of invalids and tourists in both summer and winter now visit Asheville in search of health and pleasure. The mountain air is pure and bracing, there is a large proportion of sun-shiny days when out-door exercise—so important to those who suffer from lung disease—can be indulged in. |
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It is a rare exception to find those who come here in search of health, tail of prompt and decided benefit. And those cases especially which come in the earlier stages can be assured of complete and permanent recovery. RAINFALL. This region has no rainy season; that is to say, the precipitation of moisture is quite equally distributed throughout the year, being excessive at no time. If anything, more rain falls in the summer months, when it is most welcome and causes no inconvenience; whereas the winters are comparative dry thus permitting the enjoyment of outdoor life. What little snowfall there may be never remains long even on the highest mountains, and its stay in the valleys can generally be measured by hours. The average rainfall in inches of the different seasons, for a period of eleven years, is shown as follows: Spring........................................,.......................10.1 in. Summer:.............................................................13.5 " Autumn................................................................7.1 " Winter..................................................................9 5 " Total ......................................................40.2 in.
TEMPERATURE. The record at Asheville shows the following temperature for the seasons: Spring......................................................54.3° F. Summer...................................................71.3° " Autumn...................................................55.3° " Winter.........................................37.2° " Year...........................................55.3° F. |
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| 19 | SALUBRITY. This feature is characteristic of the country adjacent to the Blue Ridge. No other range of long settled counties can show so small a ratio of mortality as those that lie at the western base of the Blue Ridge. The following table gives the ratio of consumption in several sections of the country. The figures indicate the number of deaths from this disease in every one thousand deaths: Northern New England (nearly)............250 But the ratio of consumption generated in a country is not a test of its relative capacity for promoting recovery when the disease is established. The lowlands of the South generate a much less ratio than the colder regions of the North, and yet, as the statistics of mortality in the army clearly show, they tend quite as much, if not more, to promote its progress when existing. The hot, moist Southern atmosphere by inducing debility and fever hastens the progress of the disease. On the other hand, the extreme cold of higher Northern latitudes proves fatal by exhausting the small heat-producing capacity of the consumptive. A moderately cool and highly invigorating atmosphere has been found to be by far the most favorable. Altitude has come to be recognized as indispensable to any considerable proportion of recoveries. It is, in fact, one of the most important conditions. The beneficial effects in almost all cases are felt soon after reaching the bracing air of this mountain region. Very soon after arrival the appetite improves, the cough is moderated, night-sweats cease, and the patient enjoys more refreshing sleep. And, accompanying this improve- |
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ment there is a feeling of increased strength and vigor. This region possesses a greater number of conditions favorable to recovery from lung diseases than any other part of the United States. Prof. Dickson, of Jefferson Medical College, Philadelphia, states that the health of himself and family has nowhere improved so much as in Asheville. He is "not aware of any other spot in Europe or America so full of all that is desirable" as the country of Asheville. Asheville, for many years, was known as a Summer resort only, but since the erection of several large all-the-year round hotels, its fame has gone forth throughout the Southern States, and today Asheville is a greater Winter resort for the Northern people than it ever was a Summer resort fur the Southerner. Now the advantage of the climate, both in Summer and Winter, is so well known that the town is full of visitors the year round, and the crowds are growing larger all the time. The wealthiest men in the world have turned their attention to Asheville, and are buying property here. Baring Brothers, the great London bankers, have recently made a long visit here. Also Mr. George Vanderbilt has purchased some eight thousand acres of land within one mile of the corporate limits, and is now preparing to improve the grounds and build a magnificent residence. Ex-President Cleveland and his excellent lady paid a visit to this place recently, and they expressed themselves delighted with our little city and its surroundings. Dr. T. DeWitt Talmage said when he was here, that a man who could not be happy in Asheville would not enjoy Heaven." Asheville has sixteen churches, representing almost as many different denominations, and there are but few places where there is as good attendance at church as in Asheville,—in fact, every one attends church. Business |
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is entirely suspended on the Sabbath, arid but
few of the deliverymen will hire a horse on Sunday. Business houses The educational facilities of Asheville, already surpassing those of most cities of its size, are rapidly becoming1 equal to what can be found in any city of the country. The public schools of the city, supported by local taxation and the city's part of the State fund, are open to all children between the ages of six and twenty-one years, and afford ample opportunity for every child to receive such an education as will fit it for successful manhood or womanhood. The course of instruction and training in these schools extends through ten years of ten months each; and the methods of teaching and discipline are based on the most improved principles of modern pedagogery [pedagogy ?]. Much of the success of the school is due to the fact that they have been, from their first organization, under the supervision of a Board of Trustees composed of liberal minded gentlemen, who spared have no reasonable pains or expense to put them in the first rank for efficiency and thoroughness. The Asheville Female College, President S. N. Barker, is located in handsome buildings situated in most' beautiful grounds, and is widely known as one of the best institutions for the higher education of girls. It has annually a large and increasing attendance of pupils from almost every State in the Union. The Home Industrial School and the Oakland Inn Industrial School do a much needed work, done by no other schools in the State. The Ravenscroft School, under the management of the Episcopal Church, and the Asheville Military Academy provide for the higher education of the boys. These schools, together with a number of excellent |
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private schools, make Asheville one of the best educational centers in the South, and insure to the immigrant every advantage in this respect to be found anywhere. Asheville has four banks, three club rooms, a good public library, a Y. M. C. A., and as kind, and hospitable people as can be found on the globe. Asheville can boast of more and better hotels than any other city of its size in the United States, there being not less than a dozen regular hotels, all of which furnish first class accommodations, and at very reasonable rates. Some of these hotels cost as much as $200,000, and are kept open the entire year, in fact there has not been a time since the opening of the hotels when they could have closed for a single dajr, while most of the time they have been unable to accommodate near all who have applied for rooms. In the matter of boarding ho uses, Asheville will lead both as to number and quality of the boarding houses, there being at least one hundred first-class boarding houses in the city and immediate vicinity where board can be had at from $20 per month to prices ranging as as high some of the hotels, according to the accommodations desired. Asheville has an ice factory, one door, sash and blind factory, one cigar factory, three large planing mills, two shoe factories, a carriage and wagon factory, a machine shop and foundry, a first-class flouring mill, one of the largest furniture factories in the South, and a large cotton factory working more than four hundred hands. Asheville has the best system of water works to be found anywhere. The water is brought in pipes over the top of "Beaumont" to the city from near the head waters of the Swannanoa, and then filtered before it enters the |
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| ILLUS. between 22-23 |
lind_il_0005 | Swannanoa Hotel |
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| 23 |
city, consequently it is absolutely pure. This supply is inexhaustible, and is furnished exceedingly cheap to the consumer. Asheville has her streets lighted with electric light towers, one hundred and twenty-five feet high, placed at proper intervals over the city, with arc and drop lights, and night is almost turned into day. Asheville has a street railway operated by electricity; and the tourist or visitor is met at the depot by the street cars and conveyed to any part of the city for five cents. The city is also supplied with gas of the best quality at a very cheap rate. A splendid system of sewerage has just been completed, and almost every house can now be accommodated with electricity, water, gas, the telephone, and sewerage. The free delivery of the mail is being established, as Asheville is entitled to the same. What more advantages can be had anywhere? Asheville has a fire company and a splendid hook and ladder company. There are now four railroads running into the city, and there is good prospect of three others. Asheville has some of the finest residences to be found anywhere, and she numbers among her population several millionaires. The livery stables are numerous, and some of the finest horses both for riding and driving are to be found here, and that is a very fashionable amusement both for residents and visitors. Those coming for health or pleasure would do well to bring riding habits with them. The drives are beautiful and the roads are good. One hundred thousand dollars has been appropriated by the General Government to build a Government Courthouse and Post-office at this place, which is now under course of construction. The streets are macadamized and the sidewalks are nicely paved, and during the day the streets are crowded |
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with private vehicles or parties on horse-back going to resorts in the vicinity or on excursions to the mountains or the beautiful valleys in the surrounding country. The hotels are gay at night, and music and dancing is "the order of the day" for all who enjoy it. There are in all twelve hotels in Asheville, good and desirable places, but we have not space to separately mention them. There are also many boarding houses—about one hundred, in fact, nearly every body keeps boarders. There are many good houses in the city for rent, and more being built. Furnished rooms can be rented for lighthouse-keeping for $5 to $8 per month. Unfurnished houses of eight to twelve rooms can be rented for $25 to $35 per month. Small cottages rent for $6 to $10. Good board can be obtained in any part of the city, ranging in price from $20 to $50 per month. The market is well supplied with everything that can be had anywhere; vegetables always fresh and nice, and very cheap; fruit in abundance; the best of milk and butter; no better beef can be found anywhere, at 10 to 12% cents per pound; groceries and dry goods as cheap as can be purchased in any Northern city by retail. It will be seen that the cost of living here is no more than anywhere else and much cheaper than in most places. BUSINESS AND IMPROVEMENTS. As a business place Asheville is not surpassed by any Southern city. The energy and push with which business is conducted here is equaled only in the West. That the reader may have some idea of the amount of business and the rapid growth and enterprise of the city, we briefly enumerate the following: The city's trade last year amounted to $6,750,000, in round numbers, and more than half a million dollars 'were invested in new business and dwelling houses. There are now under contract and being constructed about fifty new buildings, including a Government Court - |
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| ILLUS between 24-25 |
lind_il_000 | Post Office and Custom House |
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| 25 |
house and Post-office to cost $100,000; a new opera house, $50,000; and five large three-story brick business houses, not less than $10,000 each. The improvements mentioned are all on Patton Avenue, and within the space of one square. The sound of the hammer and the hum of machinery is heard from morning until night. There are two daily papers, the "Citizen" and the -"Evening Journal," both good papers. There are several weekly papers. The "Baptist" and the '"Methodist," both weekly, are two good denominational papers; the "Tobacco Journal," weekly, and the "Country Homes," and several other papers and periodicals are published in Asheville. DESCRIPTIVE. Thousands' of people resort to this place yearly, seeking health and pleasure and rest; costly equipages go rattling over the streets; splendid horses go prancing along the avenues, bearing beauty and chivalry, wealth and joy, poetry and song, to the numerous romantic retreats, beautiful mountain views and gushing springs which abound in this lovely region. Everybody is gay in this joyous season, and Nature rejoices with her admirers. Nothing can excel the brilliant flowers of the mountains. First, the graceful azaleas, bending under their load of red and yellow lily-like blossoms; then the pink clusters of the ivy, on their dark evergreen foliage for a back-ground, succeeded by the crowning glory of the season, the rich, waxy clusters, pink and white, of the royal rhododendron. There are great jungles of this hardy evergreen, with its large, glossy green leaves, matted in their luxuriance along every stream, and in July it breaks out with large bunches of flowers, made tip of innumerable small blooms coming out from one foot-stalk, the whole making a most gorgeous and bril- |
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liant display. No other resort in the country possesses so many attractions as this place. The tourist or health-seeker may gratify his fondness for hunting and fishing in the woods and streams. He will find the country rich in fauna, flora and minerals. He can take pleasant walks or rides and drives in every direction to points of special interest, as follows: Battery Park, Beaumont, Fernihurst, Tahkeeostee Farm, Richmond Hill, Elk Mountain, Tennent's View, French Broad River, Strawberry Hill, Swannanoa River, Yellow Sulphur Springs, Chalybeate Springs, Arden Park, White Sulphur Springs, Hickory Nut Falls, Bald Mountain (of volcanic notoriety), Cave of the Winds, Pools, Chimney Rock, Pisgah Mountain (altitude 5,757 feet), Mount Mitchell (altitude 6,717 feet), Oakland Inn, Riverside Park, Gouche's Peak, Sunset Drive, Reems' Creek Falls, Craggy Mountain, Hot Springs, Skyland Springs, Caesar's Head, etc., etc. He will luxuriate in a climate which for pleasantness cannot be excelled anywhere on the face of the globe, if equall. Western North Carolina is not only exceedingly fertile, but abounds in the richer minerals, and needs but the magic wand of the capitalist waved over it to become one of the richest sections of this Union, Occupying one-third of the entire area of the State, and possessing more than a quarter of a million of inhabitants, its present prospects are by no means disagreeable; but its prominent citizens, of all walks of life, are anxious for immigration and development of the rich stores of gold, iron, copper, mica, etc., now buried in the hills. Let no one fancy that this mountain region is undesirable as an agricultural country; there are few richer and better adapted to European emigration. The staple productions are tobacco, corn, wheat, rye, oats and hay; all vegetables |
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| 27 |
grow abundantly, and the whole country is admirably fitted for grazing. The level bottom lands are under fine? cultivation; the uplands and slopes produce rich wheat; the ash, the sugar maple, the hickory and the oak are abundant; the white pine is rafted down the Pigeon River in large quantities yearly. But the exceptional fertility of most of the ranges throughout all the counties is the great pride of the section. The sides and tops of the mountains are in many cases covered with a thick vegetable mold, in which grow flourishing trees and rank grasses. Five thousand feet above the sea level one finds grasses and weeds that remind him of the lower swamp region. Cattle are kept in excellent condition all winter on the "evergreen "growing along the sides of the higher chains. Winter and Summer, before the ravages of war thinned out their stock, the farmers kept hundreds of cattle on the mountains, feeding entirely on grass. The valleys of the French Broad and Swannanoa offer for all kinds of husbandry an inviting field, while the climatic conditions are more than favorable. Agriculture is one of the interests tributary to Asheville, while the forest growth is a subject now attracting the attention of capitalists. In the county contiguous to the place there are to be found the yellow pine, oak of almost every variety, black walnut, chestnut, locust, poplar, black birch, cherry, maple, sycamore, mulberry, sassafras, dogwood, and other well-known varieties of native woods. Nearly 160 minerals, simple and compound, are found in Western North Carolina, many of them being extremely rare and of great value. In the French Broad valley gold exists in many localities, while future explorations will no doubt lead to other discoveries. This country possesses literally mountains of wealth in mica, this section supplying nearly one-half the demand throughout the world. |
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As a fruit-growing section Western North Carolina enjoys peculiar advantages. Apples, peaches', pears and apricots thrive well, and find a congenial home among these mountains. As for apples, there is probably no part of the country where they flourish so well as in this section. The Centennial medal at Philadelphia awarded for fine apples was taken by Capt. Natt Atkinson, of this place, who was engaged in fruit growing at that time near Asheville; and in the following year, at the American Pomological Society's meeting, in the city of Baltimore, the same gentleman was awarded the Wilder medal for one hundred varieties of the finest apples. Folio wing will be found a brief description of each place of interest about Asheville, and throughout Western North Carolina, their distance from Asheville and the best and safest way to reach them, &c., &c. It might be well to state here that parties making excursions to any of these places should not be in too great haste, as without plenty of time, in most cases, the trip will be fatiguing and unpleasant. This is the local name of the elevated grounds just east of the city, and to the right of the gap in the ridge near the city Reservoir or Standpipe, and about one-half mile distant from the Public Square. There is no point about the city that better repays the rambler than a climb to this beautiful height to see the sunrise or sunset. To reach this point, enter College street at the northeast corner of Court Square, arid drive out past the Female College to the east end of College street, where you turn to the right into the drive leading up the mountain, past the Standpipe, to the gap. Here you enter the grounds of Mr. Hazard. to the right, but take the left-hand drive which leads up the east side of the ridge to |
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| between 28-29 | Battery Park Hotel |
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| 29 |
the right of the Gap, follow the drive to near Mr. Hazard's house on the summit, where you get a very fine view of the city and the mountains to the west. Now turning to the left, follow the ridge drive which leads along the ridge southward for more than a mile, winding around the end of the ridge and returning by the same route to near the residence you turn down the drive to the left at this point, which brings you back to the Gap. From this point, if you wish to visit Take the drive leading up the ridge to the left of the Gap, which winds around the beautiful residence and grounds of Mr. J. B Brown, and on to the top of the mountain about one-half mile from the Gap. Here you get another fine view of the city, and being several feet higher than "Beaucatcher," you get a more extended view of the mountains in all directions. You can return by the same route taken in ascending. This beautiful and popular drive leads along the side of Smith's Mountain for a distance of three miles, affording exquisite views of the city and rrtoun tains at almost every turn. Take College street, north of the Public Square, and turn into Oak street to your left at the College, follow Oak to Woodfin, turn to your right and follow Woodfin to Pine street, turning to your left follow Pine to the Winyah House, turn to the right into Broad street which will lead you to Sunset Drive; follow the drive to where it descends to the Beaver Dam road, by which route you may return to the city. Is the high point just northeast of the city, and is a most delightful point for a morning trip on horseback. While |
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not so easy of access, the view from this height is superior to that from Beaucatcher or Town Mountain. Ride out College street to the mountain, turn to the left into Mountain Drive near the Old Reservoir, now keep the right-hand drive to the Gap on top of the mountain, turn to the left up the ridge which will lead you along the top of the mountain, from which point the view is almost unlimited. Return by the same route. Is one of the most popular drives about the city. No visitor ever comes to Asheville without taking in this point. The road is always good and the drive the most pleasant, while the view is unexcelled. To the west may be seen Mount Pisgah, the
Cold
Mountains and some of the highest peaks of the Balsams; to the east is
Craggy, with its numerous spurs, crowned
with its pyramidal black dome, with the Black Mountains in the distance. The
beautiful French Broad, winding This pleasant drive is equaled only by the Swannanoa drive. Its location is about four miles northwest of the city, on an eminence overlooking the French Broad river, which may be seen like a great serpent winding through the beautiful valley for miles. Leaving Public Square, drive out Patton Avenue to the first street on the right—Haywood—turn into this street and drive around Battery Park to the electric light tower, corner of Haywood and Academy streets, turn into Academy street, which leads into the main drive |
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| between 30-31 | French Broad from Richmond Hill |
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and down a pleasant slope to the French Broad. Here you cross the river on a magnificent bridge, the private property of Mr. Richmond Pearson, whose beautiful residence is near the summit of the drive. After crossing the river, the road leads up a wooded hill, winding back and forth by an easy grade for about half a mile, then through an open field, where you get a very fine view of the river for two or three miles. The road from this point leads through another grove of stately oaks, then circles several times around the hill and up to the summer house on top. Here you may feast your eyes on landscapes stretching for miles away in every direction, affording many glimpses of the river, sparkling like silver through the trees, the return trip is over the same route. While there may be other drives about the city more charming, and perhaps possessed of more beautiful bits of scenery, in our humble opinion there are none that will be more enjoyed by the true lover of all that is grand in nature, than a drive to Gouche's Peak. Here on this beautiful dome, nature unfolds her panorama without an end. On every hand the view is unlimited. Mountains rise upon mountains until their lofty peaks seem to kiss the blue sky, while at numerous places the waters of the French Broad glisten in the mellow light like a silver sheen. The ride or drive to this point may be a little arduous, but the laborer is well repaid for his toil. Leave Public Square by way of North Main street to Merrimon avenue, which takes you out the Beaver Dam road "a mile from the city, to where the road forks, near a creek; here turn to the left and proceed down the creek past an old mill, and about one-fourth of a mile beyond take the right hand road, which will lead you to the top of the peak. Returning, when you have reached the |
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| 32 |
point where you left the creek, instead of turning up the creek, cross the stream into a road leading up the hill, and return to the city by this route. Is five miles north of the city, and is quite a favorite ride or drive for many. The view from this high point is very fine, Follow the route described in the trip to Gouche's Peak to where the road forks near the creek ; instead of turning to the left, keep to the right past a little church on the right of the road, and proceed on the main road for about one half mile; here you pass a white church on your right. When you have gone a few hundred yards beyond the church, turn to the left; follow this road to the top of the mountain, turning to the right; drive along the top of the mountain for about one and a half miles, to a point known as Buzzard Rock. From here you get a fine view and may slake your thirst at an ice-cold spring near by and rest before returning to the city. Tahkeeostee Farm extends along the west side of the French Broad River, opposite the passenger depot. This drive is a most delightful one, and affords many beautiful views of mountain and river, as well as a very fine view of the city. There are two routes to this point, one via Patton Avenue and across the River on Smith's bridge. The other via South Main street, the passenger depot and the iron bridge near the mouth of the Swannanoa River. Swannanoa Drive is reached via South Main street to. the iron bridge at Best [Biltmore Village]; instead of crossing the bridge, turn to the left, drive up the river to the Water-works; returning, leave the river at Mr. Cheesborough's bridge |
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—the white bridge—turning to the right and drive across Beaucatcher Mountain to the city. BY JACQUES, OF CHARLESTON, S. C. [This beautiful stream rises in the Black Mountains and after a rollicking rapid, laughing course of about 20 miles, buries its beautiful form in the French Broad, two miles south of Asheville.]
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What more can be said of this, the loveliest of all rivers than is expressed in the above beautiful poem. Calm, |
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| between 34-35 | Scene on the Swannanoa |
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deep and clear it flows onward beneath the cool shade of snarly trees which form perfect arches above, festooned by climbing vines which dip their tendrils in its cooling waters. Wild ferns and flowers of every hue hang from rocks on either side, and bright-winged birds sing from a thousand boughs overhead, while shimmering sunbeams dance upon the sparkling waves below. I have stood upon its banks and looked down through its glassy waters and have seen a heaven below, and then looked up and beheld a heaven above, reflecting like two mirrors, each in the other, its moon and planets and trembling stars. 1 have rambled up and down its pebble strewn banks where the silence is broken only by the musical voice of the murmuring waters, and where the darkness is brightened by the gleam of the sunlight flashed back through the tangled foliage, or the stray sunbeams that court dalliance with the dancing water nymphs moving downward in their sportive life to calmer scenes below. Nowhere is there to be found a lovelier, more romantic little river, and one whose entire course abounds in such profusion and variety of its scenery, at every turn the eye is greeted with a new scene so enchanting as to cause the beholder to. believe himself walking in fairy land, where rivers of crystal purity sparkle in the sunshine, and where flowers bloom in perennial beauty. Artist and Poet alike, have expended their talent in portraying the beauties of this the loveliest of rivers. The drive from Asheville is delightful and no visitor should fail to enjoy a trip up the Swannanoa. This famous health resort is situated about four and a half miles south-west of the city. It was a very popular summer resort for wealthy Southerners before the war, and up to the time the old hotel was burned. |
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This fine property is owned by Mr. E. G. Carrier, who has recently completed an excellent brick hotel and otherwise improved the grounds. The hotel and grounds have recently been leased for a term of 3 years by Dr. von Ruck, of Ohio, to be fitted up and converted into a first-class sanitarium. An electric street railway is being built from the city to this place, which will, doubtless, make it at once the most popular resort in this entire section. The present route is down Patton Avenue from Court Square, across the river at Smith's Iron bridge and out the main road, which is one of the most pleasant drives about the city, The carriage road to this beautiful country village is via the drive to Gouche's Peak, except that where you leave the creek to ascend the peak you should keep the main road for about three miles to Weaverville, but if you are horseback the route described in the trip to Elk Mountain may be taken as far as the top of the mountain, but instead of turning to the right, pass over the ridge and down the other side to the village. From near the top of the ridge you may see the town and get a splendid view of the valley as well. Weaverville has a pretty location, surrounded by lofty mountains and is becoming quite a resort for visitors and soon expects to have connection with Asheville by an electric railway. The town has many handsome residences, a first-class male college, a woolen factory, good hotels and stores, and a hospitable people. There are also valuable mineral springs said to possess wonderful medical properties. |
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BEAUTIES OF THE FRENCH BROAD RIVER. TAHKEEOSTEE—RACING WATERS. "Racing Waters' who can paint thee'. |
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Perhaps no section of our lovely mountain country presents so great a variety of beautiful views as are to be found along this lovely river between Asheville and Paint Rock, Its high rocky embattlements and rugged palisades; its clear, pellucid waters and ever • changing panoramas along its entire course, all combine to make it a scene of grandeur and beauty. The river, which for twenty-five miles above Asheville, is remarkable for its quiet, peaceful flow, wending like a silver ribbon through the delightful meadows and rich lowlands, bordered on either hand by its settings of rugged mountains, never fail to excite the most intense admiration from every tourist. The quiet stream of the valley now becomes the mountain torrent and needs all its force and volume to burst the impediments to its onward course. Its voice is heard, not in liquid murmurs now, as it sweeps past the vine-clad and flowery banks where birch and willow dip their sprays in its gentle flowing waters, but in angry, sullen roar of the cataract, breaking through opposing rock-dikes, and rushing past cliffs that frown steep and black upon its resistless tide, now resting quietly as a placid lake, reflecting like a mirror each form of rock and hill, now rushing onward like a thing of life, then forming three-fourths of a circle as it sweeps around "Bailey's Bend," whose sides of perfect symmetry stand like giant sentinels to guard the pass, then resting for awhile beneath the frowning brow of "Eagle Cliff," as if dreading the awful fate which awaits it at "Stack House," over whose rugged falls the current madly dashes in wild terrific roar and then sweeps onward, tormented on every side by the obstruction of opposing forces, writhing, twisting and turning upon itself, as if driven to every point of the compass for escape; sometimes conquered and spreading out itself in hopeless placitude; then gathering up its energies and |
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concentrating its force into narrow limits, it dashes at its opponent with mad plunge and roar, and goes on its way a conqueror, but soon to encounter a greater barrier in the form of "Mountain Island," whose granite walls defy the mad rushing tide, but with one wild plunge the foaming waters leap down "Mountain Island Falls", forming a scene of wild magnificence and indescribable grandeur, then on through the noisy "Rapids" to "Deep Water." Here the mountains close in upon the river, forcing it through a narrow channel only one hundred and fifty feet wide and forty feet deep. The railroad to reach the opposite bank, crosses the river diagonally by an iron bridge, with a clear span of two hundred and sixty feet, squeezing itself, as it were, around the rocky face of the mountain on the right bank to be received with the same grudging hospitality by the hard face of the left bank and twists itself by a very short curve into line, which in a very few minutes brings it into the beautiful, smiling valley of Hot Springs. Who that knows anything of Western North Carolina but knows, by reputation, at least, this wonderful canyon, with its wild and ceaseless splendor of tumultuous waters, its overhanging cliffs, its noble mountains and fairy islets? In the time of stage-coaching it was an experience never to be forgotten—the day's journey from Asheville to the Warm Springs, along the turnpike, which followed the old Indian trail and lay between the river and the cliffs, hemmed in by the whirling emerald waters of the first and over-hung by the fern-draped escarpments of the last, with vistas of wild and yet wilder beauty opening at every step. Now, a railroad train takes the traveler down this marvelous gorge in less than two hours, allowing only momentary glimpses of scenes on which the eye would wish to rest and linger with delight. |
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HOT SPRINGS This old and famous resort is located thirty-eight miles below Asheville immediately on the French Broad River, and may be reached by double daily trains over the Western North Carolina Railroad. No place in all this region is more deservedly popular than this old and favorite resort, known far and wide for the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the life-giving virtues of the waters that bring back to the faded cheek the bloom of health. Located high up amid the lofty peaks of the Alleghany Mountains, on the banks of the beautiful French Broad River, where nature has shown a lavish hand in pouring out her treasures for man's happiness. Here the goddess of health has her home among the mountains, where the blue hills blend with the azure Skies, where the white clouds are born, here is her palace and her throne. Here the sweetest dews are distilled, here the purest air is drawn from the realms of ether, here flow the new-born crystal, untainted waters, where the balmy atmosphere laden with life-giving properties impart new luster to the eye, tone to the languid pulse and vigor to the wasted frame. In this immediate neighborhood are numerous streams of the purest water which rise high up in the mountains, and the visitor strolling along their shady banks, can see nature in her wildest aspect; along these streams arc beautiful cascades and |
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| between 40-41 | Mountain Park Hotel |
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| 41 |
waterfalls, evergreens, holly, balsam, fir, rhododendron, etc., all growing in wild profusion, Is about six miles below Hot Springs, immediately on the line between Tennessee and North Carolina, and may be reached either by train or in carriage from Hot Springs. This grand and massive superstructure of nature in granite could not be comprehended from the mere description of any pen. In its wonderful structure, immensity and height, indescribably grand. Memorable in the legislation of both States, it takes its name from a tradition, that the Indians colored portions of it with an indelible paint, which, in places yet remain fresh and red, presenting strange heiroglyphics that have never been deciphered. Covered with a prolific growth of summer blooming and evergreen trees, and carpeted with moss. Is twenty miles east of Asheville, on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge and on the line of the Western North Carolina Railroad. The trip may be made from Asheville in one day, but it will be more pleasant to remain over night and return next day, Nestled in the very heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, it is perhaps nowhere surpassed for the wildness and beauty of its scenery. At this point the tourist finds himself in a basin so completely shut in with grand |
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and lofty peaks, that he wonders from whence he entered or by what magic means he may escape. A brawling mountain stream rushes by, in whose crystal waters bask the speckled trout to tempt the angler, while near the Hotel is to be seen one of the most beautiful spectacles in the world—that glorious fountain—as it throws its spray two hundred and eighty-six feet high, then like a bridal veil floats off in misty fragments. It is beautiful by day, but far more beautiful in the moonlight, as it loses its downy vapor high in the air, giving to the scene a weird enchantment. Above our heads weaving in and out like a silver thread, winds the glistening track over which the tourist must pass to gain the summit of the Blue Ridge. So great and difficult is the ascent that at one point four parallel tracks may be seen one above the other, while at another point, as the train passes over a winding trestle sixty feet high, the tourist might easily drop his hat on the track below over which he had passed a few minutes before, but now going in an entirely opposite direction, having gained nothing on his journey save about ninety feet in elevation. So often does the track turn, twist and double upon itself to gain the summit, that in one of our views of this section the track may be seen at seventeen distinct points. After having gained a distance of over five miles of the ascent, the train is again within one-fourth of a mile of the Hotel, now lying far below, but still the center of this grand system of iron loops; by means of which the train is gradually rising to the region of the clouds. From this point to the summit, in the short space of one and a half miles the train passes through six tunnels and across numerous gorges, whose sides are clothed with the primeval forest where perhaps the foot of man never trod. The most noted of which is ''Royal Gorge," seen from the car window, whose precipitous sides and deep yawning chasm form a scene of magnifi- |
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| between 42-43 | Hickory Nut Gap |
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cent grandeur and through whose vista can be seen the blue mountains of S. C., two hundred miles away. On our left towers the lofty " Pinnacle" of the Blue Ridge, six thousand four hundred feet above the sea, while on all sides pile lesser peaks in splendid disarray, any one of which, but for the proximity of the greater pinnacle would be a monarch itself in this kingdom of the clouds. As the train rushes onward, suddenly without warning we plunge into darkness, and the famous "Swannanoa Tunnel," one thousand eight hundred feet long is announced, two minutes later we emerge at the western end of the tunnel, in the immense cut from whose massive walls flow the spring which forms the "Dividing Waters." This is the highest point reached by the train. The waters of a spring at this point divide, part flowing into the Atlantic Ocean and part into the Gulf of Mexico. We have now entered the famous "Land of the Sky. This beautiful pass in the Blue Ridge is fourteen miles southeast of Asheville, directly on the road to Rutherfordton, where the road crosses the Blue Ridge. There is nothing particularly interesting about the gap. The scenery here is peculiarly beautiful and the views very extensive. Near the top of the Ridge is the old-time Inn kept by Mrs. Sherrill, and many a tired and weary traveler has spent the night at this famous old stopping place—famous alike for the good fare and the hospitality of its mistress. The route to this point is out South Main Street to and across the Swannanoa river at Best [now Biltmore Village] . Here you take the Rutherfordton road which leads off to the left some two hundred yards beyond the bridge. The mile boards from this point will keep you in the right road which leads you through the gap and on to |
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Which is about nine miles beyond the gap. From this point you pass down one of the grandest canyons of this entire region ; that of Broad River; far surpassing in our estimation the famous canyon of the French Broad. Here for a distance of nine miles on either side of the river giant mountains rise to a dizzy height, forming massive walls of blue granite, often reaching a height of more than a thousand feet, while not a sprig of vegetation appears on their surface. A creek large enough to turn a mill plunges over one of these embattlements and falls in a single stream a distance of over thirteen hundred feet, known as Hickory Nut Falls, said to be the third highest falls in the United States. Passing on down this great gorge, we see Chimney Rock on the right, a circular column four hundred feet high, while on the opposite side is Round Top, with its pyramidal dome resting against the sky. Below we give a description of a sunset in this gorge by an inspired writer; "High mountains bound this vale on north and south while directly in front of us, like companion sentinels guarding the western gateway, down which the sun was to march, stands Round Top and Chimney Rock Mountains. Behind Chimney Rock, trending toward the west, arise in close succession a number of mountains with distinct, broken summits—a long palisade fencing |
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the gap in whose depth rushes the Broad River. In the centre of the west, stands Bear Wallow Mountain, the last visible knob of Hickory Nut Gap. The sun was sinking behind the white cumuli that cap-ped this mountain. Streamers of golden light, like the spokes of a celestial chariot, whose hub was the hidden sun, barred the western sky. The clouds shone with edges of beaten gold. Their centers, with every minute, changed to all hues imaginable. The fronts of the Sentinel Mountains somber in the shadows, while the gap was radiant with the light pouring through it, and every pine on the top of the palisade stood black against the glowing sky." About five miles from the gap is Bat Cave which may be visited if you are not pressed for time, but you will hardly be repaid for the trip as there is nothing of material interest about this cave. Four miles beyond is Mrs. G. W. Logan's Hotel, where you will be entertained in royal style, and receive any information regarding the neighborhood you may desire. You may also secure a guide here which you will need if you visit Bald Mountain and Chimney Rock, and yon will find Mrs. Logan's boys intelligent and very agreeable for this purpose ; always kind and obliging and ever ready to impart any information you may wish to know. During a recent visit to this place I obtained the following information from Judge Logan, concerning this remarkable old Hotel. "About sixty years ago, says the Judge, this house was built by a Mr. Harris, who lived here for a great number of years; raised a large family who were married off, and the property fell into other hands, all of whom kept the house as a public stopping place; in fact it has been used continually from the time it was built as a public Inn, where thousands of people have stopped during these years, and strange to say there has never occured a single death in the house." |
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What other public house as old as this one can say as much ? we dare say none. From the Hotel you may visit Bald Mountain,—Old Shaking Bald—and the "Cave of the Winds," which are about two miles away, the entrance to the cave is very small, but presently you enter a large room from which you may look out through an opening or window on the galley and mountains, there is nothing of very special interest about the cave, but Bald Mountain has been a point of great interest for a number of years, especially to scientists. In 1874 this mountain became quite prominent by being violently shaken with an earthquake— like rumbling, breaking dishes and windows for miles around. Since then rumblings have been heard repeatedly, and it is claimed that smoke has been seen rising from the mountain at such times. There is a fissure across the end of the mountain of unknown depth, and half a mile long and from six to eight feet wide in places. This fissure has been gradually widening since 1874, and is possibly due to the gradual upheaval of the mountain. Mrs. Burnett [Frances Hodgson Burnett], a few years ago, while on a visit to Bald Mountain wrote her celebrated play "Esmeralda" which has become one of the most popular dramas of the American stage. "Esmeralda's Cabin" is in plain view from the Hotel, perched on the side of the Bald Mountain, this cabin is a peculiar formation of rock resembling a real cabin at a distance, when the sunlight falls on the rock from a certain direction. The "Old Man's Face" is another freak of nature, in this locality, and is of chief interest to every visitor to this place. It is located on the side of Bald Mountain but a short distance from "Esmerald's Cabin" and is in plain view from Mrs. Logan's front piazza, the rock formation represents very perfectly, an old man's face in nearly a three quarter view, lying diagonally along the side of the mountain with forehead, eyes, nose, mouth |
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and chin, with grey beard, so perfectly outlined in the rock by the seams and rifts, that one might suppose some giant sculptor had actually carved the features with chisel and mallet. The "Pools" is another great curiosity as well as mystery to the geologist, there are three of them, one above the other and several yards apart, they are in the bed of a good sized creek which comes down a mountain gorge and pours itself over a ledge of rock into the upper pool which is some ten feet in diameter and looks for all the world like it had been drilled out in the solid rock with a huge auger, this one is some fifteen feet deep, the water flows from this pool down over moss-covered rocks a distance of fifty feet and plunges into the second pool, which is a facsimile of the first in size and general appearance, but is about eighty feet deep, the third or lower pool is perhaps seventy-five feet below the second one and is a counterpart of the other two in appearance, but unlike them it seems to be bottomless, so far as has been ascertained, having been sounded to a depth of two hundred feet without finding bottom. This point may be easily reached without a guide. Last but not least in this wonderland of curiosities is Chimney Rock, about two miles distant from the Hotel, it will be necessary to have a guide to this point, as there is a very poor trail to follow. The rock is a circular column of solid granite about sixty feet in diameter and reaching a height of nearly five hundred feet and almost perpendicular, with a few small pine shrubs growing on the top. From this point the view is exceedingly grand, stretching for miles away in all directions. Of all the places we have visited in Western North Carolina, there are none that can compare with this section for fine scenery and natural curiosities. |
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This famous old resort was known long ago, when the old time stage-coach was the only means of making the journey down the French Broad from Asheville to Hot - Springs. The name of Alexander's is synonymous in the
mind of the visitor with homely old-fashioned comfort. Miss Fisher
[Christian Reid] in her "Land of the Sky" says of this beautiful resort :
This majestic old mountain is one of the highest points in the Smoky Mountain range. The famous Cloudland Hotel is located on the summit of this lofty mountain, 6,394 feet above §ea level, and is claimed to be the highest habitation east of the Rocky Mountains. The hotel is directly on the line between Tennessee and North Carolina, and about seventy miles northeast from Asheville by the nearest route. Cloudland Hotel enjoys a wide reputation, and as a summer resort, there is, perhaps, no more pleasant place to spend the summer vacation. There are over one hundred mountain tops in sight below, that are more than four thousand feet high. The view reaches into seven different States, viz: West |
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Virginia, Kentucky, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, South Carolina and Tennessee. The view from this point extends a distance of 150 miles in every direction and embraces an area of 50,000 square miles. During the months of June and July the rhododendrons, azaleas, heather and houstonias are in bloom and present a scene of rare beauty. The tourist who prefers riding in carriages of on horse" back to that of a railroad coach, will find the following a most delightful route, besides the most direct route to the Roan Mountain: Leaving Asheville via North Main Street, to Merrimon Avenue and thence on to Weaverville, eight miles north of Asheville, from here you take the Burnsville road to this village a distance of about thirty miles, thence to Bakersville a distance of eighteen miles, and from here to Roan Mountain which is about ten miles distant. Those who may not care to risk the fatigue incident to a trip in a carriage or the saddle should go by rail via Hot Springs and Morristown, Tenn., and over the East Tennessee Railroad to Johnson City, Tenn. Here you take the Narrow Guage Road which leads through the wildest gorge of the Alleghanies. This wonderful canon is about four, miles long with precipitous sides of solid rock, twelve to fifteen hundred feet high. The train passes through four tunnels and over numerous bridges, some of which are more than a hundred feet above the stream below. Twenty-six miles from Johnson City you stop at Roan Mountain Station where there is a well-kept Hotel, owned by the Roan Mountain Hotel Company. From here you take the stage or a carriage to Roan Mountain, a distance of twelve and a half miles over a winding road from which the view is delightful at almost every turn of the road. |
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Lying to the south-west, from Asheville, about eighteen miles distant and forming one of the most pleasing and extensive landscape views to be found, is that noble range of the Balsam Mountains, conspicuous among which is the lofty and cone-like peak of Mount Pisgah. This grand old peak is a favorite point for excursion and picnic parties from.-the city, and is reached in vehicles by an excellent graded road, some twenty miles in length, while the pedestrian can reach it by numerous paths not so long, but more steep. To reach Pisgah, cross the French Broad on the iron bridge near the cotton factory, the road leads out past Hominy, some four miles from the city and on to the foot of the mountain, where you may lodge for the night at Mrs. Foister's, a very pleasant stopping place, it is always better to make the trip to the top of the mountain in the forenoon as it is said showers are less frequent in that part of the day on this mountain. The road is a winding route but moderately good for a mountain road, the summit of the mountain is rocky and only a few rods in width, the view from the top is one of the finest to be obtained anywhere. The altitude of this beautiful peak is 5,757 feet and is clothed with a heavy growth of numerous forest trees to the summit. |
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