Lindsey's Guide Book to Western North Carolina

PAGES 51-98

Thirty miles west of Asheville on the Murphy Division of the Western North Carolina Railroad is located one of the most delightful Summer resorts to be found in this mountain region.

The village of Waynesville, the county-seat of Haywood, is 2,756 feet above the sea. Of the peaks in sight around the town, five attain a height of over 6,000 feet. These mountains are clothed from base to summit with a heavy growth of woods. Extending across the south with a rich mantle of dark firs is. the Balsam Range, while the Haywood mountains, bounding the northern line of vision, are, owing to their distance, clothed in a rich purple hue, while masses of white clouds hang about their summits, which, at sunset turn to orange, run to molten gold and then blazing with scarlet resolve into darkness'.

The village was named in honor of "Mad Anthony" Wayne, many years ago. Since the construction of the railroad through the place, a new energy has been enthused into it, and each year hundreds of Summer visitors crowd its magnificent hotels to enjoy the delightful scenery and drink of its life-giving mineral springs.

The White Sulphur Springs Hotel is located a short distance from the main town and near the railroad, the hotel is a beautiful building, nicely furnished and well-

Trains leave Asheville daily affording a delightful trip out and return the same day.

HIGHLANDS.

This deservedly, popular Summer resort is situated on a beautiful undulating plateau near the crest of the Blue Ridge, 3,750 feet above the sea level, in the southern part of Macon county, eight miles north-west of the point of Intersection of the State lines of North Carolina, South (Carolina and Georgia. The town was founded in 1874 by Mr. Kelsey and Mr. Hutchinson, and has since grown to be one of the most pleasant resorts for Southerners in this mountain section, the village now numbers several hundred souls. Along its beautiful streets are numerous pleasant dwellings, while there are a number of churches representing different denominations, several first-class stores, post-office, and excellent schools that are kept open and run for regular terms.

The lofty altitude of this plateau, and the precipitous fronts of its rimming mountains bespeak for its neighborhood, scenes of grandeur, waterfalls, gorges, mad streams, crags, and forests which, when looked upon from above, with their appalling hush, warn back the observer. Whiteside Mountain a few miles from the town is a point of special interest, and one which no tourist in this section should fail to visit, the view from top of this monarch is unsurpassed, the landmarks of four States is crowded within the vision. Mount Yonah. lifting its head in clouds, is the most marked point in Georgia; a white cluster to the southward indicating the German settlement of Walhalla, is to be seen in the level plains of South Carolina; while the Smoky Mountains which mark the southeastern boundary of

This section is specially adapted to fruit growing and grazing, all the different grasses grow luxuriantly here, while the cereals all produce abundantly,

The distance to Highlands from Asheville is about eighty miles by the most direct route which is over the Murphy division of the W. N. C. Railroad to Sylva or Dillsboro, from Sylva you take the hack direct to Highlands.

At Dillsboro you take the hack via Franklin, there being little difference in the routes.

Parties from the South and East should go by rail to Walhalla, S. C., and then take the hack for Highlands, a distance of about thirty miles.

FRANKLIN.

This young town is the county seat of Macon, is situated in the heart of one of the most fertile sections of Western North Carolina—the valley of the Little Tennessee River. The town site is a beautiful one, on an elevation on the west bank of the river. One of the most charming views of the village and the beautiful valley is from the road coming from Highlands.

Franklin is surrounded with a beautiful farming section and vast timber lands, where all the valuable hard woods are found in abundance. In the past years mica mining has been carried on in the vicinity to a paving extent, in" fact, the entire section abounds with untold

Of late years there are scores of tourists and pleasure seekers who spend the summers in this village, which is destined at no distant day to become one of the popular resorts of the country It is 71 miles southwest from Asheville, and is reached via. Murphy Division of the W. N. C. Railroad to Dillsboro, where you take the Franklin hack.

ARDEN PARK.

Ten miles south of Asheville, on the Asheville & Spartanburg Railroad, is the location of this favored resort; this fine estate comprises more than 300 acres of beautiful land, a good portion of which is in natural forest, while the cleared portion is in an excellent state of cultivation. Upon an elevation, near the center of this elegant park, is situated the residence of Mr. C. W. Beal, who owns the estate, while near by is the beautiful Arden Park Hotel, which sets back some distance from the railroad station. The delightful drive' from the station to the hotel, along a devious road and through a natural grove of extreme beauty, will recall to the visitor the famous forest from which it might have taken its name. The locality has long been noted for its salubrious climate arid enchanting mountain views. From its high elevation it commands to the west a view of Mount Pisgah and other near and more distant giants of the Blue Ridge. The sunset views are gorgeous and beyond the power of the artist's or poet's pencil to describe. The Park is richly favored with springs, both of mineral and ice-cold freestone water, A chalybeate spring, near the hotel, has been analyzed and found almost identical in its properties with the famed "Sweetwater," in Virginia.

Surrounded by the ordinary scenes of rural farm life, this hotel partakes more of the character of a country home than any we have seen, and the visitor to the

HENDERSONVILLE.

This "gem" of mountain towns is located twenty miles south of Asheville, on the A. & S. Railroad, and is the main town of the upper French Broad region. It is the second in size west of the Blue Ridge. The town always has a cheerful look; the streets are clean and shady, the main street is wide and quite attractive by the rows of shade trees along its entire length, one on either side and one in the centre. There are a large number of elegant stores well filled with merchandise, while the business houses are, many of them, brick structures, giving to the stranger at once a very favorable impression.

The residences are, many of them, elegant mansions, while all are tasty and home-like, with beautiful lawns and flower beds, showing a marked indication of refinement and culture. There are numerous boarding houses and excellent hotels, which, during the summer season, are crowded with visitors and health-seekers. There seems to be no pains spared among the citizens to make the visitors feel pleasant by providing every means of comfort and enjoyment in their power.

There are a number of different places of resort around the town where strangers may visit. "Strony," about four miles from town, commands a magnificent view of the Ochlawaha valley, and a fine view of the French Broad River. From Mount Hebron is a fine view of rugged and broken country, from some of the high points about the town may be seen Sugar Loaf, Bear Wallow, Tryon, Shaking Bald, &c.

The route to Hendersonville from Asheville is via. the Asheville & Spartanburg road, a pleasant ride of less than one hour; parties coming from the South should come via. Spartanburg, S. C.

CAESAR'S HEAD

About forty-five miles, a little to the southwest of Asheville, and on the line between North and South Carolina, will be found one of the most interesting as well as most wonderful sections of country in the Blue Ridge system. There are two routes to this point from Asheville, one up the French Broad valley to Brevard, a distance of twenty -eight miles, and thence to Caesar's Head sixteen miles.

The other route is via. the A. & S. Railroad to Hendersonville, thence by private conveyance via. Buck Forest to Caesar's Head; the latter route is, perhaps, the best, as only about half the distance is by private conveyance. This route leads through the picturesque valley of the upper French Broad region. After traversing wild and fertile valleys the road leads between close mountain slopes, along a narrow gorge, through which the Little River madly rushes for a distance of four miles, roaring and splashing in a continuous succession of wild, noisy rapids. On this route there are many beautiful waterfalls, such as the Bridal Veil, High, Little River, Conestee and Triple Falls, of which the Bridle Veil Falls is the most noted. Caesar's Head is formed by a spur of the Blue Ridge from which you may look down into an abyss two thousand feet below. From this dizzy height the peaks of the Blue Ridge maybe observed for scores of miles in each direction; looking northeast you may see the famous King's Mountain, seventy miles away, while

The return may be made over the same route as going,

Leaving Brevard you follow the French Broad valley returning to Asheville.

SKYLAND SPRINGS.

This new resort was opened less than two years ago, and is fast becoming one of the leading resorts of the country. It is eight miles south of Asheville, on the Asheville and Spartanburg Railroad. A new station has been established here with neat passenger and freight depots. The main hotel is within seventy-five yards of the passenger depot, and only a short distance from one of the finest mineral springs in the South. A recent analysis of the water shows it to possess properties almost identical with that of the celebrated Tate Epsom Springs of East Tennessee. There are located within the immediate vicinity of the Hotel not less than a dozen fine mineral springs all possessing rare virtues in the cure of dyspepsia, kidney and liver diseases, &c., in addition to the large and commodious hotel which has just recently been purchased by a Northern gentleman. Prof. O. A. Miller—the founder of the place and former owner of the hotel—has erected several beautiful cottages for the accommodation of parties who may wish to spend the season here with their families. This we consider one of the most promising locations for a flourishing town in the western part of the State. There has been about two hundred lots purchased here since the establishment of the hotel, by parties from different points. Several of whom are now building nice homes, and all of whom expect to build very soon.

There are churches of different denominations where there is preaching and Sunday-school every Sunday, there are also good day-schools kept open for the full term. The country adjacent is excellent for farming and all kinds of fruit-raising.

To reach Skyland take the train from Asheville via A. & S. Railroad.

MOUNT MITCHELL.

The distance from Asheville by the nearest route to the summit of this famous peak is twenty-eight miles, but by far the easiest and best route is that up the Swanannoa River, a distance of thirty miles. Arrangements should be made to start on this trip after a rainy spell, or when there is a promise of several days of fair weather, as it is very unpleasant to be out in the Black Mountains during rainy weather. Parties contemplating this trip -should not fail to provide blankets and warm clothing— as on the "peak" the nights are quite cold—unless you depend on your guide whom you will have to have from the foot of the mountain, unless you take one from Asheville to furnish these necessaries.

If the tourist to this point wishes the services of Big Tom Wilson—the famous Black Mountain guide—to pilot him through the mountains and up to the summit, he should leave Asheville via. the Weaverville road to that point, eight miles distant; by this route the distance is 28 miles, but must be made in the saddle; leaving Weaverville you take the road to Barnardsville, here you turn to your right, up the north fork of Ivy Creek, to the top of the ridge, and do A-n Caney Creek to Big Tom Wilson's. Here you may spend the night and start on the morrow

 THE SWANNANOA ROUTE.

Leaving the city via. South Main Street to the Swannanoa River, turn to the left and proceed up the river, crossing to the right bank, on a bridge, some six miles above the city, proceed to Cooper's Station, ten miles from Asheville, here you re-cross the river to our left, and proceed up the "North Fork" to the Widow Patton's, a distance of 20 miles from your starting point. If you are traveling in a carriage you will here have to abandon it, and take to your saddle for the remainder of the route, as the ascent begins at this point. You may spend the night here, which is a good place to stop, and make arrangements for your guide, and bedding, and rations, unless you have them provided before starting out. You are now fenced in by giant, mountains on either side and in front; to your right the Black mountains rear their lofty peaks until lost to sight among the clouds, while on your left the Craggies [Craggy Mountain], seemingly envious of their dark neighbors, rear their bald summits to a height of 6,090 feet, with the lesser peaks of both ranges crowding so closely upon each other as to completely cut off

[Gombroon, Home of Senator Zebulon Vance]

"Gombroon,"

The mountain home or summer residence of U. S. Senator Z. B. Vance, is located but a few hundred yards from Mrs. Patton's, on a beautiful wooded spur of the Craggy Mountain. The building is new, having been completed less than a year ago; the house is of beautiful design and admirably adapted to the location, standing in a beautiful grove of stately oaks, chestnuts, hemlocks and pines —trees that drank the dews of heaven, or smiled in the sunshine, or braved the wind, and storm, and tempest an hundred years ago. Many of them, I dare say, were silent companions of the mountain crags and peak long before the turf beneath their branches were profaned or glorified by the foot of man, and quivered at the ominous sound of the first axe-falls of the pioneer that waked the echoes of these solitudes of forests, streams and mountains. Among such trees, on such a spot, amid the mountains of his native State, has Buncombe's great son chosen to build his house.

Strong contrast is the Senator's life here to what it is in Washington city, his winter residence. But it is a most restful change, and the whirl of political and social activity and gaieties at the capital during' the winter season, far from weaning him from North Carolina, "But binds him to his native mountains more." Here in his secluded mountain retreat he may say:

"What now to me are the jars of life,
Its petty cares, its harder throes?
The hills are free from toil and strife,
And clasp me in their deep repose."

THE ASCENT TO MITCHELL' S PEAK

The loftiest of Atlantic summits, and the monarch of the Appalachian system. The chief summit—once known as the Black Dome—then as Clingman's, and now as Mitchell's Peak, is of arduous but not difficult ascent. Leaving Mrs. Patton's in company with your guide, the upward way lies through superb forests of deciduous trees and along the banks of the rushing Swannanoa, until after a climb of five miles, the second base of the mountain is reached—a small grassy plateau, where a residence once stood—now known as the "Half-way House." From this point the world below unrolls before the gaze like an azure scroll, while above, awful in its nearness and immensity, towers the dark mass of the Black, clothed with the sombre [sic] forest, into the depths 'of which the the path now plunges, and which it does not leave again until the final summit is reached. Winding in snake-like turns through the close-growing firs, the trail climbs the steep shoulders of the great mountain, passing over what is now known as Clingman Dome (of the Blacks) and then following its ridges for about three miles, until the bare rocky peak, which is the highest point of land east of the Rocky Mountains is reached, and all hardships of ascent are forgotten in the view before the gaze.

If the day is clear the view is almost boundless in extent and of infinite beauty. Range behind range of great mountains he below, like a Titanic ocean stilled by some mighty hand. From this supreme elevation it is possible to study the structural character of the region, and to count all the great chains that cross the country, while no words can express the varying and exquisite color that, like a glamour of heavenly enchantment lies over the wide expanse. The whole earth, "and the beauty thereof seems to be spread at one's feet, and the airs that come to this high mountain crest are full of fresh-

" How fair this lone and lovely scene,
And yonder dropping fiery ball,
And eve's sweet spirit, which steals unseen With darkness over all!"

But it is not only from its unsurpassed view that this great mountain is interesting. Its vast sides are clothed with a forest of bewildering beauty, crystal streams gush from its heights, and there is, altogether, a fascination about this wild un-peopled region that goes far to account for the passion which caused Professor Mitchell [Elisha Mitchell] to lose his life in wandering through its wilderness.

Near at hand, to the westward, the massive heights of Craggy rise, but with a more gentle aspect, and a flora of rare interest. Its spurs extend southward until they end in the hills that encircle the gentle valley in which Asheville lies.

In the year of 1835, Rev. Elisha Mitchell, D.D., then Professor in the State University of North Carolina, announced to the Board of Public Improvements his intention to make a geographical survey of this mountain— as it was then generally supposed to be higher than Mount Washington—and with no other interest than that? of contributing to scientific knowledge, he made the first barometrical measurements., west of the Blue Ridge. With great labor and patience he climbed the many peaks of the Black Mountains, and announced the result of his labors. Dr. Mitchell's report was the first authentic announcement of the superior altitude of the highest Southern summit to that of Mount Washington.

In 1844, Dr. Mitchell made another visit to this region to confirm his former measurements; About this time the Hon. Thomas L. Clingman, then a member of Congress, and interested in scientific researches, announced that he had found a higher peak than the one measured by Dr. Mitchell. In the controversy that followed it was generally admitted that General Clingman had measured the highest point of ground, but the question was: had Dr. Mitchell measured this same peak or had he measured some other peak ?

To confirm the correctness of his previous measurements and reports, Dr. Mitchell, again in 1857, visited the mountain, accompanied by his son, Charles Mitchell. On Saturday, June 27th, at noon, they had reached the Mountain House about half way up the mountain. Dismissing his son and assistant, the Professor started across the mountain by the same route he had taken in 1844, desiring to see Big Tom Wilson, the guide who had accompanied him during his previous visits, giving in-

A writer has described in the following beautiful manner the circumstance:

"The pure waters enveloped him in their winding sheet of crystal; the leaping cataract sang his requiem in that wondrous and eternal song, of which old Ocean furnishes the grand, all-comprehensive key. Cream and -white flowers flaked the billowy thickets of the dark green laurel, and tall'conical firs, delicately tapering spruces interlocked their weeping branches from shore to shore." The body of* Dr. Mitchell was conveyed to Asheville, where it was buried. A year after it was disinterred and

There has recently been a beautiful monument erected over the grave by means of funds bequeathed for that purpose by his youngest daughter. The arduous task of erecting the monument on this high peak having been undertaken by the Faculty of the State University, was entrusted to the supervision of Dr. W. B. Phillips, now of Birmingham, Ala., and was by persevering and energetic labors, successfully accomplished in July, 1889.

Since his death, Dr. Mitchell's claim to having; first measured this peak, which has ever since borne his name, is undisputed.

THE CHEROKEE INDIANS.

The most ancient history we have of the mountainous country known as the Southern Highlands, is handed down to us through Indian tradition by the Cherokees. We learn through this channel that before this ancient tribe of warriors conquered this section and settled in their present territory, the country was occupied by a tribe of "moon-eyed" people, who were unable to see during certain periods of the moon, and that during one of these periods of blindness the Creek Indians poured through the mountain passes and massacred the entire race. Later the Cherokees made war upon the Creeks and almost annihilated the tribe.

From the legendary romances we find in the traditions of the Cherokees, we are led to believe that the time when this once great nation first conquered the country was at a very ancient period. The fact of their adopted country being the seat of many of their religious legends is sufficient proof of this feet.

We are, however, enabled by the aid of modern science

This people were no doubt well advanced in mechanical skill, were consecrated in religion, and practiced the arts to a marked extent, as evidenced by the numerous relics found in the great number of mounds scattered over this section, which are but sepulchres [sic] of this ancient people, designated as the ''Mound Builders." Many of these interesting mounds are found to contain skeletons, pottery, mechanical instruments, and weapons of war. Some have even been found to contain human skeletons encased in plates of mica, while most of the rich mica mines iti this section give evidence of having been worked many centuries ago.

Returning to the present Cherokee history we find them to-day still holding to many superstitious beliefs, while in the history of the past every mountain summit had its legend, many of which remain to the present day. It is said that the Cherokees, knowing no reason why the tops of the mountains should be treeless, jumped to the conclusion that the bald places were the footprints of the devil, as he walked with giant strides from peak to peak.

The "Devil's Court House," a precipice of the White-

Nimrod Jarrett Smith is the present incumbent of the office of Chief. He was born in Cherokee county January 3, 1837. He stands full six feet high and is well proportioned. His complexion is that of the ordinary Indian, with well formed head and back. His hair is glossy black and flows in long waves down to his shoulders. Chief Smith moved into the bounds of the Indian tribe in Swain county in 1876. The former Chief, Lloyd R. Welch, dying in 1880, Smith was chosen to fill the place, and has been re-elected twice since, the election occurring every four years. All their land is owned in common by the tribe, and any Indian family has the right to live on and work as much land as he needs, provided he pays his taxes, which is all the rents required. They elect their councilmen every two years, who meet once a year, the Chief presiding over them. Their constitution and bylaws are printed in English. They also have the New Testament printed in English.

[T]ABLE OF ALTITUDES.

SMOKY MOUNTAINS.

Beech Mountain,
Clingman's Dome,
Elk Knob,
Mt. Guyot (Bullhead Group,
Mt. Collins,
Mt. Buckley,
Roan, High Knob,

BLUE RIDGE.

BLACK MOUNTAINS.

BALSAM MOUNTAINS.

CRAGGY RANGE.

SOUTH MOUNTAINS.

TABLE OF ALTITUDES, continued

Area and Counties of Western North Carolina and County Seats

[Tables]

Areas and County Seats, continued

Table of Distances and Railroad Fares

RAINFALL

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Asheville, N.C.
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Publisher of
PHOTOGRAPHIC VIEWS
of
WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
A partial list of which will be found on the following pages, to which we call special attention.

Prices of Views.
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We make a specialty of the above size, of which we carry an immense stock. They are classified according to locality and the name of the class printed under each view, and a brief description of the locality in which the view was taken is printed on the back of each view.

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A liberal discount to parties wishing to handle our views. Terms on application.
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ASHEVILLE, N.C.

[Lindsey & Brown Catalog, cont.]

Lindsey and Brown's
DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE
 of
PHOTOGRAPHIC VIEWS
"The Land of the Sky.'"
Beauties of
Western North Carolina
ASHEVILLE, N.C.

CLASS A.

ASHEVLLE AND VICINITY.

Asheville!-"The Land of the Sky,"—-"The Poet's 'Dream,"—"The Health Seeker's Paradise." Nestled away tip among the cloud-capped pinnacles of the Appalachian Mountains, with her vine-clad hills, her flowers and sunshine, we can't wonder that she is called by such pet names as the above.

In this class we give a list of the names of Views in Asheville and its immediate vicinity, among which will be found many views both interesting and instructive.

[6" x 8"]

CLASS B.
BEAUTIES OF THE SWANNANOA RIVER.

Here are some of the most charming and beautiful bits of scenery anywhere to be found. We have scores of views along this little river, only a few of which are named, and, therefore not noted in the following list, but all of equal beauty and interest.

CLASS C

BEAUTIES OF THE FRENCH BROAD RIVER.

Perhaps no section of our lovely mountain country presents so great a variety of beautiful views as are to be found along this lovely river, hundreds of which we do not enumerate in this catalogue.