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The Land of the Sky |
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Novels by Christian Reid
The Picture of Las Cruces. A Romance of Mexico. 12mo.
Paper, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00
The Land of the Sun. VistasMexicanas. 12mo.
Cloth, $1.75
Valerie Aylmer. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents ; cloth, $1.25
Morton House. 8vo. Paper, 75; cloth $1.25
Mabel Lee. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth $1.25
Ebb=Tide 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth $ 1.25
Nina's Atonement, ect. 8vo. Paper 75 cents; cloth, $1.25
A Daughter of Bohemia. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth, $1.25
Bonny Kate. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth, $1.25
After Many Days. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth, $1.25
The Land of the Sky. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth, $1.25
Hearts and Hands. 8vo. Paper, 75 cents; cloth $1.25
A Gentle Belle. 8vo. Paper, 50 cents
A Question of Honor. 12mo. Cloth, $1.25
Heart of Steel. 12mo. Cloth, $1.25
Roslyn's Fortune. 12mo. Cloth, $1.25
A Summer Idyl. 18mo. Paper, 30 cents; cloth $1.00
Miss Churchill. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth $1.00
A Comedy of Elopement. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;"
OR
ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
BY
CHRISTIAN REID,
AUTHOR OF "A QUESTION OF HONOR," " VALERIE AYLMER," "
MORTON HOUSE," " NINA'S ATONEMENT," ETC.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
NEW YORK: D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
12 FIFTH AVENUE. 1896. |
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ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, In the
year 1875,
BY D. APPLETON & CO., In the Office of tho Librarian of Congress, at
Washington, |
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TO THE
KIND AND PLEASANT COMPANIONS
OF A SUMMER IDLING THESE PAGES
ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED |
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;"
ADVENTURES' IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
CHAPTER I
"Mountains that like giants stand, sentinel enchanted land."
"I WANT you all to remember," says Eric, decidedly, " that I do not advise
you to go."
"I don't know how you can say that, Eric," replies Aunt Markham, " when
you have talked incessantly of the beauty of the mountains, and said that
everybody ought to go to see them."
" He meant appreciative people," says Sylvia. "We are not appreciative;
therefore his remarks do not apply to us."
" He wants to go alone with a gun and
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
a microscope," says Charley; "and has no fancy for playing
cavalier-of-all-work to a
trio of ladies,"
" He need not fear any tiring of that kind," I remark, " for you are
going, and Rupert also. We shall, therefore, be well provided with
cavaliers."
Scene: a family party on a veranda at sunset. Aunt Markham lying back in a
large chair, fanning as if her existence depends on keeping cool — as
perhaps it does, poor woman! since she weighs at least fourteen stone;
Sylvia reclining in a smaller chair, with her filmy dress falling around
her to the floor, her pretty face flushed with heat, her gray eyes
slightly languid ; Eric on the steps with his back against a
jasmine-twined pillar, and a cigar, which he does not light, between his
fingers ; Charley Kenyon stretched on the grass just below the steps;
Rupert hovering to and fro; I established in the hall-door, for the sake
of a through-draught
—the month being July, and the thermometer standing at eighty-five.
We have been discussing where we shall spend the months of August and
September, and we have finally decided to turn our faces westward, and,
crossing the Blue Ridge, explore as far as possible the comparatively
unknown country which lies beyond—a country so elevated that its valleys
lie more than two thousand feet above sea-level. The person by whose
recommendation we decided on this programme is my cousin Eric Markham—a
great hunter, a great lover of Nature, though outwardly the most
unenthusiastic of human beings, a person whom his mother has never been
able to drag to fashionable watering-places in her train, but who has
spent summer after summer among the fair, wild, Carolina, mountains, until
his attachment to them is a family proverb.
" The reason why I don't advise you to go," he says, when our comments
have ceased, " is because I have no doubt you will be bored and disgusted.
You will find no fashionable hotels, no bands of music; and then you will
blame me! So I accept no responsibility, but simply repeat what I have
said before, that if you want fresh air and glorious scenery—the grandest
this side of the Yosemite—you must go to Western North Carolina to find
them."
" We want just those things," says Sylvia —Sylvia is my sister, and we
are Aunt Mark-ham's orphan nieces— "I am tired of dancing and flirting and toilets! What a comfort it will be to put on a linen
traveling-dress and a pair of thick-soled shoes, such as Nora wore in
'Quits,' and set forth with an alpenstock to climb mountains."
"A great comfort indeed," says Charley, lazily.—Charley is Eric's
cousin, but not ours; and he and Sylvia have been quarreling and making
love and tormenting each other ever since their childhood.—" You will wish
for your silk dresses before you have been gone three days. Eric talks as
if you were going into the wilderness, but that country has been a resort
for fifty years, perhaps longer, and Asheville is decidedly a civilized
place. I was there last summer, and I had the pleasure of seeing a great
deal of fashion."
"Then we must take our trunks," says Sylvia, alive to the importance of
appearing as fashionable as her neighbors. " I thought we were only going
to explore the mountains, but if we are likely to meet people—"
"Of course you must take your trunks, my dear," says Aunt Markham,
decidedly. "One meets exceedingly nice people. Besides, it is always well
to be prepared for emergencies."
" I shall take my gun," says Rupert, following Charley's example and
flinging his long and rather awkward length of limb on the grass. It is
impossible for any one not to be awkward who is six feet high and only
seventeen years old.
"And is it definitely settled, then, that we will go to Western Carolina ?
" asks Sylvia. " All in favor of the motion please say 'Ay.' Very well," a
rather languid but unanimous "Ay" responds. — "Now, Eric, tell us how to
reach it."
" There are two great gates of entrance," says Eric, " Swannanoa and
Hickory-Nut Gaps. In the old time, when people traveled in their
carriages, it was the general custom to cross the Blue Ridge by one gap in
going to transmittances country, and by the other in coming away. — You
remember that, mother? "
"Certainly," answers Aunt Markham. "I went to Tennessee with your father
thirty years ago, and we crossed the Hickory-Nut Gap in going, and
Swannanoa in coming back."
" Let us go in that way," says Sylvia.
" Impossible," says Charley, " The rail road takes you to Swannanoa."
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
" A fig for the railroad ! We can go in our carriage, like the grandees of
thirty years ago. Which is the finest gap, Swannanoa or Hickory-Nut ?"
" Hickory-Nut is infinitely finer."
"Then we must see it," says Sylvia, decidedly. She is of a nature easily
roused to enthusiasm, and it is evident that this enthusiasm is beginning
to wake in the interest of the long-neglected beauty lying within our own
borders. "Listen!" she says, sitting upright in her chair, " why can we
not go by the railroad to Swannanoa Gap, and take the stage-coach from
there to Asheville, leaving the carriage to follow us to the same place,
so that we can travel where we like in the mountains, and finally return
by Hickory-Nut Gap? Is not that a good plan, Eric? "
"Only open to the objection that the carriage will be likely to be broken
to pieces," says Eric.
" Why, I have heard you say that the roads beyond the Blue Ridge are
excellent."
" The turnpikes are generally excellent, but I humbly submit that all
roads are not turnpikes; and, furthermore, that to reach the country
beyond the Blue Ridge it is necessary to cross the mountains—to do which
is no joke."
"I don't know a more serious matter," says Charley. " You are jolted, and
bumped, and thumped, until you do not care for any prospect that can be
shown to you."
"Pray speak for yourself," says Sylvia. " I am quite sure that no one else
would think of putting a few jolts and thumps in comparison with the
grandest scenery—"
"In the Atlantic States !" says Charley. " I have heard that from Eric
several times. I contemplated this scenery on many occasions, and from
many different places, with no great degree of satisfaction; but the
trout-fishing— that is something which warrants enthusiasm!"
"And the hunting!" says Rupert, with an ecstatic smile on his sunburned
face. " How many deer did you kill last season, Brother Eric?"
"About the carriage," says Aunt Mark-ham, "I am inclined to think with
Sylvia that it might be a good plan to send it to Asheville. The idea of
traveling about the mountains in stage-coaches and hacks is insufferable!"
" But we are more than enough to fill the carriage," says Eric.
"Take two saddle-horses, also," cries Sylvia, with a bright light
springing into her eyes. " One for you, and one for me—how delightful!"
" And how economical!"
She makes a gesture signifying that this consideration is not worth a
moment's attention.
" People expect to spend money when they are traveling," she says, " and
the cost of the whole expedition will be less than a month at a
fashionable watering-place."
"And I'll take the horses along with the carriage," cries Rupert, eagerly.
" The rest of you may go on the railroad if you like, but give me a horse
forever!"
"John will drive the carriage, and you can ride Cecil and load
Bonnibelle," says Sylvia, with the air of a general issuing orders for a
campaign.
"Eric, what do you say?" asks Aunt Markham, turning to her eldest son, who
is autocrat of the household.
" What is left for me to say ? " responds Eric, lighting his cigar, " The
matter is apparently settled. I only desire that it may be clearly
understood that I am not account-able for consequences. If the carriage is
up-set, and Bonnibelle breaks her own legs and Sylvia's neck, nobody is
to blame me."
" Nobody will think of blaming you," says Sylvia. " You accompany us under
protest —and such trifles as broken legs and necks are to be exclusively
our own affair."
The next two weeks are devoted to preparing wardrobes and studying maps.
Then, on a particularly warm Monday in August, we set forth on our
journey. Rupert and John, with the Carriage and horses, started the day
before for Asheville, via Hickory-Nut Gap. We take the railroad, and turn
our faces toward Swannanoa,
Our railroad -journey is uneventful, as railroad-journeys—unless varied by
an accident—generally are. The cars are filled with the usual number of
thirsty men and dusty women, of invalids, sight-seers, and
pleasure-seekers. During the long pauses at the stations, we learn where
most of these travelers are bound, and receive a great deal of interesting
information about their social and domestic affairs. Few things strike one
more forcibly in traveling than the general garrulity
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'THE LAND OF THE SKY," OR,
and egotism of human nature. This is entertaining for a time, but
finally—taken in connection with a choking amount of dust, and a simmering
degree of hent—it becomes almost intolerable. At last over the blazing
noonday a grateful shadow steals, and, for the first time since early
morning, we lift our window-blinds and look out. We are between the
villages of Morganton and Marion, and fairly among the mountains. Already
there is a greenness over the land, in striking contrast to the parched
brownness of the low-country which we left behind; great hills roll up on
all sides, and on our right the magnificent dark-blue masses of Table-Rock
and Short-Off Mountain, stand clearly defined against a lurid
thunder-cloud. The road just here follows the lovely valley of the
Catawba, and we are the river in the foreground, with its level
meadow-lands, over which suddenly a white rain comes driving in a quick,
sharp shower.
I am sorry this gust has come up just now," says Eric. " I wanted to take
you on the rear-platform of the car, and show you a very pretty view of
the river-valley, with a glimpse of the Blue Ridge."
But we are not sorry, for the rain, is delightful. It dashes in spray
against our windows, peals of thunder sound above the clatter of the
train, and flashes of lightning dart hither and thither to frighten
nervous travelers. It does not continue very long, however. As suddenly as
it began, the vehemence of the storm abates, the thunder rolls away, the
cloud is evidently passing. A minute later a ray of sunshine falls on the
scene, and lo! the earth is enchanted. The shower, which is still falling,
is lighted up with prismatic radiance; away in the south dark clouds are
piled, but around us all is freshness and beauty. Mists rise, like the
white smoke of incense, and when we lift our windows a rush of odor
enters—a hundred sweet secrets of growing things mingled and exhaled by
the dampness.
After this the run to Old Fort is very pleasant. The dust is laid, the
heat is tempered, the sunshine is still partly obscured by clouds that
dapple the changing landscape with soft shadows, and now and then we have
a glimpse of blue heights far away. We pass beautiful valleys glittering
with the late rain; we glide by grassy meadows, and streams where
old-illumined mills stand embowered
in trees. There is a shimmer over every thing—a mingling of mist and
brilliance peculiar to a mountain-scene.
Presently our leisurely rate of speed abates, and we find ourselves at the
end of our railroad journey—Old Fort. This place—which takes its name from
an old fort that is supposed to have existed in the days of Indian
warfare—has only risen to comparative importance since the railroad
abruptly and unexpectedly ended here. At least the railroad track ends
here, but for many miles beyond the road-bed is graded, and a great deal
of heavy work in the way of bridging and fierce and futile indignation
against the plunderers who have worked the people such grievous wrong.
" Is Old Fort a town ? " asks Sylvia, looking round as we descend from the
train.
" It is before you," gays Charley. " Judge for yourself."
What is before us is an hotel perched on a hill. A few other houses are
scattered widely and wildly around. Great wooded mountains rise in the
background. The hotel, piazza seems crowded as we approach—Aunt Markham
and Eric in front, Charley escorting Sylvia and myself. We are the last of
the straggling procession of passengers, and receive the concentrated
stares of all the languid ladies with yellow-backed novels in their hands
and rundowns on their heads, all the open-eyed children, and lounging men.
" Why on earth do these people stay here?" asks Sylvia, struggling with a
veil which she is trying to draw down. " It looks like a very
uninteresting place."
" It is healthy, and the rates of board are, no doubt, cheap," says
Charley. "Many of the people may also lack courage to cross the Gap—those
being esteemed lucky who reach the other side whole of life and limb,"
This appalling statement is treated with the incredulous contempt which it
deserves as we mount the hotel-steps.
Hamlet says that " there's nothing either good or bad, but thinking makes
it so ;" and this remark applies with peculiar force to Old Fort. Some
people think it a very good place in which to spend weeks and months.
Others are averse to spending more time there than the necessary hour
which elapses between the arrival of the train and departure of the coach.
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
We belong to the latter class. After dinner we assemble on the piazza and
take a vote for going or staying; and it is nearly unanimous to go.
" Catawba Falls are in the neighborhood," says Eric, anxious to fulfill
his duties as cicerone. " If you stay until to-morrow you may see them,
and they are well worth a visit."
" Stay a night—stay two nights—here! " Bays Aunt Markham. " It is
impossible to think of such a thing!"
"Are the Falls easily reached?" asks Charley, with his usual air of
protest against any exertion.
"They are by no means easily reached," answers Eric; " but they can be
reached, which is the point, I take it."
" By no means," says Sylvia. " The point is to cross the Blue Ridge as
soon as possible. Who cares for falls and cascades on this side ? They may
be pretty enough, but we are bound to the land of the sky—and yonder comes
the coach to take us there. How splendid !"
It is not the coach which draws forth this commendation, but the six
beautiful gray horses which are harnessed to it. We watch them admiringly,
and Eric calls our attention to the manner ill which they are controlled
by their driver, who is no less a person than the renowned John Pence,
Of this famous character I have heard so much that I regard him with great
interest. My knowledge of stage-drivers in real life being limited, I had
drawn a "fancy picture of a portly figure in top-boots and a " sprigged
weskit;" instead, I see a spare, sinewy man, dark as an Indian, with the
eye of a hawk, who wears a pair of the brownest and dirtiest of corduroy
trousers, a 'striped shirt, the sleeves of which are rolled up above the
elbows showing thin, muscular arms, and a hat slouched rakishly over his
brow. This is John Pence, who for twenty years has driven back and forth
over Swannanoa Gap, and whom his admirers declare to be the best driver on
the continent. If success is the test of merit, merit certainly must be
his; for during these twenty years no accident has ever happened to a
coach driven by him; and those expert in such matters say that one hardly
realizes the art of driving until one has seen him handle the ribbons.
That we have such a charioteer is a matter for congratulation, since the
appearance
of the coach is not calculated to fill us with confident hopes of a safe
journey. It is evidently old and much dilapidated. It is also heavily
loaded. The boot is full of trunks, and as many are piled on top as can
possibly be put there. Besides which,
Aunt Markham has the anguish of beholding her largest and most valuable one standing
on the ground, while the proprietor of the house informs her that Mr.
Pence says he is overloaded, and that trunk cannot possibly " go over the
Gap this trip."
" Mr. Pence ! " repeats the lady, indignantly. " Who is Mr. Pence, pray ?
My trunk shall go !—Eric, do you hear this ? "
"I hear, mother," replies Eric, "but I don't think there is any redress.
The coach is overloaded, and I should not consent for you to enter it as
it stands if anybody but John Pence was going to drive. When you see the
precipices past which that top-heavy vehicle must pass—"
"Oh!" she says, turning pale, "if that is the case, tell him to take off
my other trunk, and Sylvia's and Alice's also."
But Sylvia and Alice protest against ibis, and a Babel of confusion
follows. It is Eric who summarily ends it.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" Let me put you in the coach," be says. " Leave the trunks to me. I will
arrange for them to be sent over safely to-morrow."
Then the labor of stowing us away begins. There are already an old lady, a
middle-aged lady, two children, and an elderly gentleman, within the
coach. By the united efforts of Eric, Charley, and the host, Aunt Markham
is lifted and deposited inside. She sinks into her seat with an apoplectic
" How fearful! "
I am lifted in next; but, when it comes to Sylvia's turn, that young lady
declines to enter.
"I am going up aloft—like the cherub that watches over poor Jack," she
says.—" I know you don't want me, Charley—you want to smoke. But Eric will
take me with him —won't you, Eric? "
"I wonder if you think Erie doesn't want to smoke?" says Charley.
" He can if he chooses, and you, too, for that matter—so don't look so
disconsolate, but help me over this wheel."
She is assisted over the wheel, and elevated to the deck-seat. Charley
sits down by her side, Eric springs to a place by the driver, that
illustrious person cracks his long whip, the six horses start with one
accord, the heavy coach sways. We are off.
" Over the Mountains of the Moon, Down the valley of shadow, Hide, boldly
ride, The shade replied, If yon §eek for El Dorado."
This is what Charley sings to an improvised air, as we rattle down a steep
hill and cross a clear, flashing, rocky - bottomed stream. The mountains
which we are going to scale rise in towering masses before us— splendid
heights that seem to defy the locomotive at their base. The gentleman who
is our fellow-passenger points out some of the unfinished railroad-work.
Aunt Mark-ham looks at it regretfully.
" If only the road were finished to Asheville!" she says.
"No railroad in the country has been so mercilessly plundered, madam,"
says the gentleman, sternly. "Ever since the war, it has been in the hands
of rogues and swindlers, who have stolen every thing but the
road-bed—which could not conveniently be made away with."
" I should not be surprised if you were one of the defrauded contractors,"
I think;
but there is not much opportunity for conversation on the great grievance
of Western North Carolina. We hare begun the ascent of the mountain, and
to say that the road is stony would convey but a poor idea of its actual
state. It is my settled conviction that no one knows what stones really
are until he or she has traveled from Old Fort to the top of the Blue
Ridge. The road is covered with them, of every size, shape, and variety,
and the constant rolling, jolting, and pitching of the coach baffle
description. A ship at sea in a stiff gale is steady compared to it. We
settle ourselves grimly to our fate; endeavor to keep ourselves steady by
straps or any thing else that is convenient; gasp a brief "Excuse me 1"
when we are hurled against each other; and, in the intervals of being
tossed about the coach, lean out of the windows to admire the wild beauty
which surrounds us. At least I do. Nobody else paya much attention to it.
Aunt Markham resigns herself to martyr-like endurance, and preserves a
martyr-like silence, until a tremendous lurch, which knocks her bonnet out
of shape,, also exhausts her patience.
"Alice," she says, severely, " if I had entertained an idea of any thing
like this, nothing would have induced me to come."
" There's worse than this afore us," remarks the old lady, placidly. "I've
been over the Gap times and times—for my daughter's married and living in
Buncombe—and my bones always ache for about three weeks afterward."
" If nothing happens worse than a few jolts," says the gentleman, " we can
stand them well enough, but I don't like the look of this stage. I told
Burgin before we left Old Fort that it was a shame to send travelers over
the Gap in such a conveyance. He said it had been sent from Asheville. I
don't believe it will go back there without an accident."
"Good Heavens!" says Aunt Markham, turning pale, as she remembers all that
she has heard of the precipices that border the road. "If I had suspected
that the coach was not safe, I would never have entered it. —Alice, speak
to Eric at once.—Dear met what is that ? "
Chorus of children, "O ma, did you hear something crack?"
Something undoubtedly cracked — and that loudly—under the body of the
vehicle. A convulsive swayiog and jerking is followed
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
by an abrupt halt and the descent of Mr. Pence himself. Clamor immediately
ensues. All the passengers thrust their heads out of the windows and
request to be told what is the matter. Mr. Pence deigns no reply to their
inquiries, but he says a few words to Eric— who has also descended from
the top. The latter at once opens the door and tells us that we must
alight.
"A brace has broken," he says. "Mr. Pence is going to send to Old Fort for
assistance to mend it — when the assistance comes, the coach has to be
lifted forward, so you must all get out."
Remonstrance being useless, we are lifted down and set on our feet.
Sylvia, assisted by Charley, descends like a bird from her
*' Not with John Pence at the helm, mother," says Eric; "the thing is
impossible.— Now, while we have to wait, suppose you come and look at the
tunnel a little farther on. It is an exceedingly interesting piece of
work."
But Aunt Markham does not care for tunnels, and she declines to go. So we
leave her seated on a bundle of shawls and waterproofs, while we follow
Sylvia and Charley, who have already walked on in the direction of the
interesting piece of work. When we come in sight of the tunnel they are
just entering it, and by the time we reach it we see their figures at the
farther end, clearly denned against the light.
" I have a peculiar horror of these places,"
lofty perch—she has a faculty of doing things gracefully which other women
do awkwardly. Our prophet of evil scrambles out, and pokes his stick, with
an air of triumph, under the body of the coach.
"I said this stage was unsafe as soon as I saw it," he remarks. " It is
fortunate that the brace broke just here. If the accident had occurred by
one of the precipices a little farther on we should all, madam " (this to
Aunt Markham), " have lost our lives."
" I never heard any thing more infamous !" says Aunt Markham, who does not
hesitate to use strong terms. " This What's-his-name ought never to be
allowed to drive a coach again. The idea of risking our lives.'—Eric, do
you hear this? We might have begun dashed over a precipice and—"
I say, as we enter, and Eric points out the admirable masonry. " I never
feel nervous in traveling except when passing through a tunnel; but then I
always think, ' Suppose a collision should occur, and we should be crushed
in the debris of a wrecked train down here in the bowels of the earth !' "
" What a cheerful reflection ! " says Eric. " You will be particularly
partial to traveling on this road when it is completed, for there are
three tunnels just here—two short ones, and one very long one through the
Blue Ridge."
"I certainly prefer going over it with John Pence and his six gray horses
to burrowing under it like a mole. By-the-by, if the railroad ever should
be finished, what will become of John Pence ? "
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" He will break his heart and die, I suppose."
Midway in the tunnel we meet Sylvia and Charley. We turn and go back with
them. From Point Tunnel, looking east, there is a very beautiful, though
not very extended, view; and we sit down near the mouth of the tunnel to
admire it, while we wait for the coach. Giant hills, clothed to their
crest with verdure, rise around us. The road winds like a thread along the
side o£ the mountain on our left, a green valley lies be-low, golden
sunshine glints down through leaves to which diamond-drops of rain still
cling, stillness encompasses us—when our voices cease we hear nothing save
the sweet singing of waters in the forest-recesses and the notes of birds.
Sylvia makes a pretty adjunct to the picture as she sits in her gray dye's
and blue veil on a pile of stones, arranging some ferns which she has
gathered. Charley, as usual, is lying at her feet, regardless of the fact
that the grass is very damp. I open my sketch-book, and make a hurried
outline of the scene, writing underneath," En route to Arcadia!"
By the time this is finished the coach appears, and, as it halts, Aunt
Markham's fan is seen at the window beckoning imperatively.
" This gentleman says the road is frightfully dangerous," she remarks,
when we come up, " and the coach is certainly very unsafe. There is no
telling when we shall reach Asheville, or whether we shall reach there at
all. We can only trust in Providence."
Some people grow pious whenever they are frightened. Aunt Markham is one
of them. She never alludes to Providence unless she desires substantial
aid from that quarter.
Eric laughs.
" Trust in John Pence, too, mother," he says. " You may be sure he will
take you safely to Asheville."
After this the ascent begins in earnest. The road is almost perpendicular,
and so narrow that there is barely room for the coach. On one side the
mountain rises in a sheer cliff, on the other are precipices, down which
the size is lost in twilight. At least once in every half-mile we ford a
stream of considerable size, while innumerable rivulets cross our way.
There is no point in our upward journey where we miss the music of flowing
water. Clear as crystal and cold as ice these streams come leaping in
cascades down the rocky glens, flash along our path, bordered by ferns,
shadowed by laurel and ivy, and at last plunge into the tangled greenness
of the depths far below. It is impossible to write, in terms which will
not seem extravagant, of the forest which covers the great mountains
towering across the gorge. The evergreens especially attract our notice
and admiration. We see familiar shrubs grown to stately trees, and trees
to giants. The spruce-pine, here in its native air, towers to an almost
incredible height, the hemlock, the white-pine, the " bonny ivy-tree," the
hoi-ly, and mountain-laurel—what words can describe the beauty of these,
mingled with the lighter foliage of the oak, the chestnut, the maple, the
ash, and countless others ? Beautiful berries gleam, strange wild-flowers
shine like stars, ferns run riot in luxuriance, velvet-like mosses cover
every rock and fallen tree.
Up, still up we go, as if we meant to pierce the very clouds. The horses
strain, the coach sways, the air grows fresher; in the great shadow of the
hills we forget the sultry heat of August lying over the parched country
below. We feel that we are on our way to the land of the sky. I say as
much to Aunt Markham, who resignedly expresses a hope that we may reach
it. After a while the children, who have been devouring large slices of
cake, cry out for water, and Mr. Pence obligingly stops by a spring that
gushes out at the foot of a gray rock. Eric descends also, and asks for a
cup.
"You must all drink," he says, "for this is the head of the Catawba River.
A few miles from here, on the other side of the Ridge, is a spring which
is called the head of the Swannanoa, so that in the course of one
afternoon you can drink from the fountains of two rivers—one of which is
bound to the Atlantic Ocean, the other to the Gulf of Mexico."
" Dear me!" says the old lady, " to think of their traveling so far I But
I always thought the Swannanoa emptied into the French Broad."
"This is a beautiful place, Eric," I any, hastily, looking at the narrow
defile in which the coach stands, the escarpment of the bold cliff leaning
over us, the green abyss on the other side, beyond which mountains hem the
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
" I wonder if Mr. Pence would not -jp long enough for me to sketch it ? "
"Impossible," answers Erie. "We have been so much delayed that I doubt if
we shall reach Asheville before midnight."
Aunt Markham groans at this. "T shall be dead 1" she says. " I cannot
endure this terrible jolting much longer."
Despite this dismal prophecy, we go on— higher and yet higher. Now and
then, glancing backward, we catch glimpses of the world below—an azure sea
broken into a hundred giant billows—and feel that it is pleasant to be
exalted so far above it. These glimpses, however, are very brief. We
struggle upward for another weary hour. Then comes a sudden halt, and Erie
cries:
"Look !"
We look. For one minute we grasp such a perfect pleasure as docs not often
come in this imperfect world. The arduous part of our journey is over; we
are on the top of the Blue Ridge; looking back down the mountain up which
we have for three hours BO laboriously climbed, we see the country we are
leaving spread out in the beauty of blue, misty distance. The afternoon is
clear and golden, the air of this great altitude inexpressibly pure and
fresh. The shower at noon has left the day like crystal; and turning
eastward the glance sweeps over an infinite expanse of broken country,
range after range of mountains melting into each other, high, cultivated
valleys lying between, soft cloud-shadows falling in patches here and
there, bold outlines against the farthest distance, the graceful line of
heavenly-looking hills telling into the horizon, and over all the
refulgent glory of the sapphire sky.
We are now on the summit of Swannanoa Gap, and from this point begins that
gradual descent which will bring us to the elevated basin in which
Asheville lies. At " Curley's " we change horses and drivers, and not far
from here meet the coach from Asheville. It is obtrusively bright and new
in appearance. The inside is lined with crimson plush—in contrast to our
faded leather—and on the seats three fresh and cheerful-looking ladies
sit. Two gentlemen are on the top. They all stare at us—we return the
compliment. The driver jeeringly tells our driver \hat he is not likely to
reach Asheville before morning—to which the latter replies that
he will be there by ten o'clock. With thin interchange of civilities we
part.
" How odiously complacent those people looked 1" says Sylvia. " I am glad
they have to go down that steep mountain."
As we advance, the path widens, the mountains recede; dells, and coves,
and sweeps of cultivated land appear; now and then we see a farm-house ia
some sheltered nook, looking very diminutive in the shadow of the hilla.
Already the aspect of every thing is changed. A greenness like that of
early spring is spread over the land; there is a sense of freedom, of
freshness and repose, in the pure air. It is Arcadia which we have
entered, and which lies around us, serene and peaceful in the long light
and deep, slanting shadows of the afternoon.
Presently Sylvia's voice is heard asking
is a walking guide-book," she says, " and he has been telling me all about
the country. We have crossed the Blue Ridge and left it behind, you know.
These mountains on each side of us now are spurs of that chain—those on
the left are called the hills of the Swannanoa, these on the right belong
to the Black Mountain range. Eric says that in a little while we shall see
the Black itself."
" Vive le roi" I answer. "The Black is 'the monarch of mountains'—at least
the monarch of Atlantic mountains. One cares nothing about those enormous
and no doubt ugly peaks in the West."
" There is very good philosophy in valuing what we have, and despising
what we have not," says Eric. " Yonder is the Black now ! Look, what a
fine peak ! "
" Very fine, indeed! " says Aunt Markham, gazing out of the wrong side of
the coach and nodding approvingly at one of the hills of the Swannanoa.
But I see what Eric means. Indeed if he had not spoken I think I should
have known that the magnificent crest up thrust against the evening sky
could only be the chief of Appalachian mountains. Shall I ever forget that
first sight of its majestic beauty ? Its splendid peaks were outlined with
massive distinctness, and its dark-blue sides were purpling in the light
of a luminous sunset. Round the pinnacle a few light clouds were floating,
which caught the golden radiance of the west.
" Those form the monarch's crown," says
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
Eric. "It is rare to see the peaks of the Black free from clouds."
Besides the Black, there are other mountains— part of the same range — in
sight. Nothing can be more superb than the great Hues of Craggy as they
trend westward. Its peaks, to the unscientific eye, look as high as the
cloud-girt pinnacle of its mighty neighbor, and their effect is nearly as
grand. That we see this beautiful range at sunset seems to us a very
gracious boon of Fate. Magical shades of color melt and blend into each
other as the nearer and farthest heights change their hues with the
changing light. Finally a soft mist, neither blue nor purple, but
something between the two, begins to steal over them, and deepen in all
the clefts and gorges, as if they were drawing their robes about them for
the night.
It is not long that we hare this view. The road turns, other mountains
intervene, and we find ourselves facing a great pomp of . sunset. In the
midst of it rises, like a dream of the celestial country, a glorified
azure peak of exquisite symmetry, and Eric says, "Pisgah!" -
Presently the sunset fades, and twilight softly melts into moonlight. All
along their
day's crests the mountains are touched with
on, but the night grows more and more beautiful. We cross again and again
a swift, bright stream, which we ;ire told is the Swannanoa, and at last
we find ourselves journeying along its banks. Is this an enchanted land of
pastoral delight to which we have come? It is impossible not to believe
so. Fertile fields and softly swelling hills surround ns; houses gleam in
the moonlight; the level road over which even the coach rolls smoothly is
immediately on the river-bank. We see the current rippling and swirling
over its rocky bed with a music which fills all the lustrous night with
sweetness. Lovely depths of foliage—drooping trees and tangled
vines—fringe its banks. Nothing can be conceived more fairy-like time this
charming river. Though I am growing very sleepy, I cannot refrain from
expressing my admiration, and the gen. gleeman by my side begins to
explain that "Swannanoa" does not mean "beautiful," but "great road, or
pass, over the mountains." 1 listen with disgusted incredulity, and before
he concludes have fallen asleep, indifferent to the fact that it is the
hard wood of the coach against which my head rests.
When I wake we are entering Asheville
silver, while the pearly radiance bathes valley, and rock, and stream,
with a flood of enchantment. The coach and the hours drag slowly
The coach is rattling up a long, stony street,
lights are gleaming, and there seem
a great
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
an end, and with a sense of grateful repose we soon iie down to sleep,
waiting for the morning to show us what manner of place this is which we
have entered in the still, bright beauty of an August midnight.
CHAPTER II.
"Wandering as in a magic dream
By shadowy wood By mountain-peak
crystal stream, forest-dell, is love to dwell, We enter the enchanted
clime, Forgotten In the lapse of time, The golden land of Mindless, Of
sylvan sports and joyousness."
with a stimulating quality in the air
unlike the languid lucent we left below, a cloudless sky, a flood of
sunshine, a sparkling mist draping the distant azure mountains— this is
the aspect with which Buncombe greets the strangers within her borders
when they open their windows the next
These windows look down on the Main
Street, but there is room and to spare in Asheville, so we are not hedged
in by buildings. Immediately in front is an open space through which we
look at the green hills on which the town is built, rising with gentle,
undulating swell in every direction, while afar lie the blue mountains,
height overtopping height, peak rising behind peat, graceful lines
blending, through the gaps more remote ranges to be seen lying so pale and
faint on the horizon that it is almost impossible to tell where mountains
end and sky begins. It is only a glimpse of the beauty which is in store
for us, yet we are delighted. There is a brilliancy about the scene which
is almost startling. We were not prepared for such clear, exquisite
colors— colors that would thrill an artist's inmost soul—such emerald
greenness, such heavenly blue-ness, such diamond-like brightness of
atmosphere. " It is a country of which to dream!" cries Sylvia, clasping
her hands. "Why have we never come here before? Why have we gone
everywhere else, and neglected this Arcadia lying a t our very door?""
"In order that we might be fitted to appreciate it when we did come," I
reply. " We are now able to compare it— unbiased by any spell of earthly
association—with much more famous regions, and to declare that it
surpasses them all."
" Surpasses them !—I
should think so, indeed! Have you ever seen anywhere else such tints as
those on the mountains yonder? Come! I see a piazza—let us go out on it.
One cannot have too much of this air. It is like an elixir of life."
We go out on the piazza. The air is indeed like an elixir in its buoyancy
and lightness. Birds are singing in the leafy depths of the trees that
droop before the hotel, people are passing up and down the street— among
them we presently recognize Eric,
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
walking with a more elastic step than customary with him in the
low-country, Macgregor's foot is plainly on his native heath. He stops to
shake hands with every other person whom he meets, and there is much
cordiality in these greetings, Sylvia watches him with amused eyes. When
lie pusses under the piazza she leans over and speaks :
" What is- the Arcadian form of salutation, Erie ? Shall one say ' God
save you!' or 'The top of the morning?' Isn't it delicious—the country, I
mean? Alice and I are here. Come up."
"You had better come down," he says. " The breakfast-bell is ringing. I
will meet you in the parlor in five minutes."
In five minutes we meet in that apartment. Aunt Markham has declined to
rise for breakfast, and reports that she ia aching in every
Gap. "I don't know when I shall recover," he says, solemnly. Churley is
always incorrigibly lazy, therefore it follows that we go in to breakfast
attended by Eric alone.
It is the height of the season for tourists, and we hear—in fact, we heard
before we crossed the mountains—that every house of entertainment in
Asheville is crowded. The "Eagle" demurred about receiving us, but Eric's
influence carried our point. This morning we see that the hotel is full to
overflowing. As we e:it our breakfast leisurely, we criticize the parties
that come and go, and me edified by a great deal of fashion. | After a
while Charley appears, and drops into a seat by Sylvia.
" I see no signs of tho linen blouse, the alpenstock, or the thick boots,"
he says, regarding her pretty toilet with evident appreciation. " Are we
going to resign the role of explorers, and subside into ordinary summer
idlers ? "
" I have not the faintest idea what you mean to do," she replies, " but,
judging by
I should think you were likely to be more of a summer idler than any thing
else. As for the rest of us, we have arranged our plan of action for the
day. After breakfast we are going to devoid ourselves to seeing Asheville
and the French Broad. This afternoon we shall walk to—to—what is the name
of the place, Eric?"
" Beaucatcher," answers Eric
"And to-night let us go to Elk Mountain," says Charley, meekly. "It is
only about seven miles distant—a pleasant point for a moonlight stroll."
" No, to-night we are going to—what is the name of that place, Eric ? "
"Battery Porter," says Eric.
"Yes, and then to-morrow we are going to MacSomebody's Hill —Eric says it
commands the finest view east of the Mississippi
—and the day after to Elk Mountain, and the day after that—"
But the expression of Charley's face is so full of genuine consternation
that I interpose.
; " Pray spare us, Sylvia. We are not ranking the tour of Europe after the
manner" of Brown, Jones, and Robinson—the great-
in the smallest deal or lime. We are summer idlers, and we do not mean to
exhaust ourselves by malting a business of pleasure. Don't let us be tied
down to a programme. Let us see ail these beautiful places in the manner
and at the time that seems to us beau"
"Hear! hear!" says Charley, gratefully
—but Sylvia regards me with, disapprobation.
" We are not likely to see very much if the manner and the time are left
to some of tile party," she remarks.
"May I be allowed to suggest riding or driving, instead of walking ? "
says Charley. "Asheville is a town of magnificent distances—every place is
a mile at least from every other place—and the French Broad, which you
speak of seeing, is, a mile from them all."
" What are miles in this climate ? " asks Sylvia, loftily.
After breakfast we set forth to discover what miles are in this climate,
and we find them quite as long as those to which we have been accustomed.
Charley is right. Asheville is a place of magnificent distances, and if it
is ever built up within its corporate limits, it will be the metropolis
which its inhabitants fondly hope to see it. Yet as we stroll around and
about (or, to speak more correctly, up and down the streets), we decide
that one could hardly under any circumstances wish it other than it
is—less a town than n collection of country-seats scattered irregularly
and picturesquely over the innumerable
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
hills. There is no point from which the eye-does not command a great
expanse of country and mountain-ranges overtopped by mountain-ranges,
besides the most charming bits of foreground landscape. As a rule, I
dislike comparisons in scenery—especially comparisons which introduce
Switzerland—but it is impossible to refrain from saying that in general
effect Asheville reminds one of a Swiss town. The green heights over which
the gabled houses are scattered, the roads winding away to the breezy
uplands, the air of brightness and cleanliness, the winsome glades and
valleys, and the frame of distant mountains—so soft, so graceful, so
heavenly fair, that it is impossible to wish their violet outlines
transformed to the dazzling majesty of the pure, awful Alpine peaks.
"Sour," says Eric, as with much expenditure of breath we gain the top of
the beautiful hill on which the Catholic church stands—decidedly the
loveliest site in the town—"you can see how Asheville is situated. You
perceive that the hills on which it is built rise up from the valleys of
the French Broad and Swannanoa—"
"How can we perceive it?" demands Sylvia. "Neither the French Broad nor
the Swannanoa is visible. It is a matter of faith, not sight, so far as
they are concerned. I see the hills—and they are astonishingly
" West of the Blue Ridge the famous blue grass grows—which makes Western
North Carolina one of the finest grazing regions in the world," says
Charley, who is seated in the church-door, fanning himself with his straw
hat. He utters this item of information with an air which seems to say
that Eric shall not monopolize all the honors of cice-roneship.
" And what are those ?—and those?—and those?" asks Sylvia, indicating
various peaks in the beautiful mountain panorama spread toward the south
and west.
" Those at which you are looking," says Eric, " belong to the range of the
Cold Mountain—and that most prominent peak is Pisgah. Its shape and height
make it a landmark through all the country south of the Black,"
We can well credit this, looking at Pisgah with admiring eyes. It lifts
its head boldly, this commanding pyramid, from among a number of lesser
peaks, the lines
of which recede away on each side until they Me like azure clouds on the
far horizon.
"From Beaucatcher, yonder," says Eric, pointing to a bold hill—the last of
a spur running down from the Black—which bounds the prospect on the east,
" there is a most extensive view. One hundred and eighty peaks are said to
be in sight. I never counted them—but I can believe it."
" Let us go there at once," says Sylvia.
A faint groan proceeds from Charley in the rear.
"Not this morning," I say. " Let us go there for the sunset. Now we are
bound to the French Broad."
Charley groans again—evidently this is not much of an improvement in
Beaucatcher —but he rises and we descend the hill. A steep street runs
along its base. We climb this for some distance, and presently find
ourselves in a shady lane, with a stretch of meadow-land before us, and
several country-seats in sight.
" What a charming place!" says Sylvia, sitting down on the roots of a
great oak by the road-side to rest. "We are in the country, and yet not in
the country. Alice, had you any idea that Asheville would be like this?"
"Not the least," I answer, looking beyond green meadows and wooded hills
to the shadows moving across the distant mountains.
" How confidently one draws a mental picture of a place and accepts it for
reality!" Sylvia goes on, tracing figures in the sand with the point of
her parasol. "I fancied we should find an ordinary village—rather pretty,
perhaps—but chiefly remarkable for being twenty-two hundred feet above the
seen—"
" Twenty-two hundred and fifty," says Charley. "The people insist on
having the credit of every fraction."
"Good as a health-resort, no doubt," Sylvia proceeds, "but full of the
depressing village air and village stagnation one knows so well.
Instead,-!.look round, and what do I see?"
" Mountains," says Eric, literally.
"A bright little spa," the young Indy announces, emphatically, " which
only needs fashion to make it an American Baden."
" I hope it may fee a long time before fashion finds it," says Eric,
dryly.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" Then you must hope that it may be a long time before there is a
railroad," I say. "One cannot expect to keep Fashion out when once steam
has opened the way for her capricious majesty."
"The place, even now," says Charley, " might be a great
Bummer-resort—counting its visitors by thousands, instead of by hundreds —
if it would arouse to a sense of its own interest, and provide a proper
place to lodge them.* A modern hotel,
" And a band of music," says Sylvia.
" Of course a band of music, a good table, and food servants, would
realize your American Baden in short order."
"You are fine Arcadians," I remark, severely, " to plan deliberately the
destruction of all you profess to admire. If I had Mr. Ruskin's gift of
invective, I would wither you with my indignation. Not having it, I exult
in the fact that you can neither build your hotel, nor bring your bands of
music and army of tourists."
"The railway will bring them, however," says Sylvia, beginning to hum a
Strauss waltz.
At, this moment a carriage appears driving along the lane. It is a small
basket-phaeton, drawn by a large horse, instead of a pony, and contains a
lady and a gentleman. The wheels roll smoothly and easily over the
shadow-dappled road; the lady holds her fringed parasol with coquettish
grace; the sound of their gay voices floats to us. We begin to walk on,
but Sylvia looks round. "After all, driving is pleasanter than walking,"
she says.
"Are you tired?" says Charley. "Take my arm."
Before she can accept or decline this
phaeton, "del!" cries a voice with a French accent, "is not that Sylvia
Norwood? I am sure it must be!—Victor, stop—stop a moment!"
" But you are not sure, Adele," a man's voice remonstrates.
"I must make sure," replies the other, eagerly.
Then the tall horse is induced to stop, and we look at Sylvia. She turns
toward the phaeton, and, as the lady springs lightly to
* Since this party were in Asheville, a "proper place'' has been provided.
the ground, advances, and holds out her hand. "You are Adele DuPont," she
says " I am very glad to meet you."
" it is—it is herself! " cries Miss Dupont. rushing forward, and embracing
her with effusion.
In the effort to refrain from smiling— knowing that the eyes of the
gentleman in the phaeton are upon us—we all look so grave that one might
suppose something very said to be occurring. In reality I am much amused.
I have heard of Miss Dupont—a Creole, from New Orleans, with whom Sylvia
was at school—and I know that the encounter is not altogether agreeable to
the latter. She puts what is popularly known as
when the embraces and kisses subside, says :
" How singular that we should meet here, Adele Where do you come from ? "
" From the Warm Springs," answers Adele. " We reached there a month ago,
and I should have been content to stay until it was time to go back to New
Orleans, but some of our party wanted to travel. We arrived here day
before yesterday. We are going—oil, everywhere! And you?"
" I reached here with a party, last night The length of our stay is
indefinite—our plans are indefinite, also. Here is my sister, let me
introduce you."
Miss Dupont is introduced to me, Eric is presented, also Charley. She says
something graceful and flattering to each of us—being, evidently, one of
the persons whose ease and readiness, especially in the line of
compliments, make less-favored people feel stiff and awkward. Then she
turns to Sylvia:
" Now that you have made me acquainted with your sister and cousins," she
says, " I must introduce my brother to you.—Victor, can you leave the
horse for a few minutes?"
Victor does so readily enough. He is a slender, dark-eyed man, with a
great deal of French grace in his manner. He is thirty, perhaps, and looks
interesting and artistic; I see Charley (who is neither dark-eyed,
interesting, nor artistic) regard him with evident disfavor. Eric is more
cordial, and, while he and Sylvia talk to the stranger, Miss Dupont
informs me, in a dramatic aside, that he is a charming musician, that he
has been a gallant soldier, and that " we"—the Dupont family
understood—are most proud of and devoted to him.
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
" But where are you all going ? " she asks, suddenly turning her attention
from me to Charley, in a manner for which I am not entirely unprepared, "
Victor and I have been driving aimlessly. Is there any special plant to go
to? Is there any particular thing to be seen ? "
Now, Adele Dupont is by no means a very pretty woman, but she is a woman
who inn the best of her personal appearance, and who has a grace and style
that would redeem ugliness itself. She is attractive and beguiling. She
knows it, and Charley knows it, too.
" There are several places," lie replies. " Have you been to Beaucatcher ?
Have you driven out to the Swannanoa—or the French Broad f "
"We came up the French Broad, you know. As for Beaucatcher—no, I have not
"We were just on our way to Beau-catcher," says Mr. Dupont to Sylvia.
"You had better wait until this afternoon, and join our party," says Erie,
good-naturedly. " We are going there to see the sunset."
" Yes, of course we will wait," says Miss Dupont, graciously. "If Victor
and I went alone, we should not know one mountain from another; but no
doubt you"—the beguiling eyes again appeal to Charley—" know the names of
them all."
"Not quite," replies Charley, modestly— he really does not know a single
mountain besides Pisgah, which, from its shape, is unmistakable—" but I
will do my best to enlighten you."
With this arrangement we separate. The Duponts return to their phaeton. We
continue our walk, discussing them the while— not altogether in a spirit
of charity.
" Adele Dupont is delightful until you find that she is insincere," says
Sylvia, when Charley remarks that she is very agreeable.
" A little insincerity in a woman does not matter," says that lax young
moralist, " if the result is good."
" Indeed !" says Sylvia, in a tone of sarcasm. " How edifying it is to the
feeble feminine intellect to hear masculine opinions! If insincerity is
not objectionable in a woman, what do you consider it in a man ? "
" Almost as contemptible as affectation," Mr. Ken yon replies- "and,
unless lam
greatly mistaken, Monsieur Victor Dupont If a very good example of the
last."
Sylvia smiles scornfully.
" I have never seen an Anglo-Saxon man," she says, " who did not consider
a foreigner, or anybody with foreign manners, affected, Such judgments
are—are—"
" Pray don't hesitate to say what they are," remarks Charley, quietly, as
she hesitates.
"Are generally the result of prejudice, jealousy, or provincial
ignorance," she goes on, impetuously, with the color mounting to her
cheeks.
"Prejudice, jealousy, provincial ignorance!" repeats Charley,
meditatively. "Un-der which head does my judgment come, I wonder?
Prejudice?—why should I be prejudiced? Jealousy?—of whom should I be
jealous ? Provincial ignorance ?—I am afraid I must plead guilty on that
score, I have never been in New Orleans." '
"You have been in Paris, however," I observe, "and therefore ought to be
familiar with French manners."
" And Miss Dupont's are very good," he says, with the air of one making a
deduction.
I give the matter up, and walk on with Eric, leaving Sylvia and Charley to
fight their battle alone. We hear them disputing behind us.
" A person may be enthusiastic and effusive without being affected,"
Sylvia declares.
" With an impressionable temperament, feelings are so easily effaced that
persons of that kind are often unjustly accused of insincerity," Charley
says.
Eric and I look at each other and smile. We are accustomed to the sparring
and wrangling of these two.
We do not go to the French Broad. An avenue which is very creditable to
the town, has been opened toward it, and along this we walk for some
distance, admiring at every step the green landscape around us and the
splendid heights far away ; but our pedestrian powers are exhausted before
we reach the river. Wiser with regard to Asheville distances, and saddened
by the necessity of toiling over the cobble-stones which pave the streets,
we return to the hotel.
As we approach the door, we are astonished to see a stout lady in the act
of being assisted from the small phaeton with which
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THE LAND OP THE SKY;" OR,
we have already made acquaintance, by a slender, graceful gentleman.
" There is Mr. Dupont" says Sylvia, looking at the latter.
"There is Aunt Markham ! " I exclaim, looking at the former.
" Aunt Markham !" repeats Charley, " By Jove, so it is! What do you
suppose she has been doing?"
'• Driving with Mr. Dupont, apparently," says Eric, whom nothing
surprises.
We find that this conjecture is correct. When we come up, Aunt Murkham
receives us benignly.
"Mr. Dupont, whom I believe you have met," she says—we bow, and Mr. Dupont
bows—"has been kindly driving me around Asheville a little. It is really a
very pretty place—only exceedingly scattered. I should dislike to be
obliged to walk very much here. You must all be dreadfully tired."
" I am more vexed than tired," says Sylvia, " for we did not reach, the
French Broad after all—it is too far away."
" If you would like to see that river, will
Mr. Dupont proposes—a Drive.
you not allow me the pleasure of driving you to it?" says Mr. Dupont,
eagerly. " I shall be greatly honored."
Sylvia hesitates.
*' But your horse must be tired," she says, " and you—are not
you tired,
also, of playing cavalier of dames ? "
" The horse has done nothing to speak of —nothing to tire him," says the
young creole, gallantly; " and, as for me, life offers me no greater
happiness than to be a cavalier of dames. If mademoiselle will only be
gracious enough to trust herself with me—"
Mademoiselle is gracious. She smiles ; nobody knows better than Sylvia
herself that she has a very charming smile.
"You are very kind," she says, " and the phaeton looks very inviting. Yes,
I will go. The French Broad is only a mile distant, I believe."
As he assists her into the little carriage, Mr. Dupont says something in
French—like all Creoles, he falls into this language when-ever he wants to
be very complimentary or impressive—the substance of which is that he
should be glad if it were twenty miles distant. Then they drive away,
leaving us standing on the sidewalk.
"Mr. Dupont is a most agreeable person," says Aunt Markharn, taking
Eric's arm as she slowly mounts the steps of the hotel-piazza. "It is a
very good test of a young man's breeding and disposition when he is
attentive to an elderly woman. He pressed me to drive with him as if I had
been seventeen."
Charley puts his hands in the pockets of his coat, and I see that it would
relieve his mind to whistle. He refrains, however, and is repaid for this
act of self-denial. As we enter the hotel, a light, silvery voice is heard
in the parlor, singing a gay French song. " That is Miss Dupont, I
suppose," I say to Charley. He nods, and, turning, enters the room. The
song breaks off abruptly. There is a trill of laughter; then I hear, " So
my brother has carried Sylvia off! Are you inconsolable, Mr. Kenyon ? "
" Not if you will let me hear the rest of that song," says Charley the
hypocrite.
An hour, two hours pass, without any
sign of the return of Sylvia and Mr. Dupont.
Aunt Markham grows uneasy, and asks if I do not think that the horse may have run
away and killed them, or else that they may
have fallen into the river and been drowned. I quiet her fears by assuring her that there is no great probability that either of these
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
events has occurred. I entertain a strong suspicion of what has occurred,
but I say nothing about it, having long since realized that while men (and
women) are what they are, flirtation will be very likely to exist.
The dinner-bell rings presently, and, notwithstanding her uneasiness, Aunt
Markham decides not to wait for the absent culprit.
petite," she says. We so down-stairs, therefore, but, as we cross the
passage, the tall horse and small phaeton draw up before the door, and,
Sylvia's pretty, flushed face looks
" Don't scold, auntie!" she cries, as she
enters the hall, bearing a large stone jug in both her hands. " I have
been on such an expedition in your behalf! Can you imagine what I have
here ? You must taste it at once.—Mr. Dupont, please make somebody bring a
glass !"
Mr. Dupont darts away, and in less than a minute returns with a glass. He
holds it while Sylvia uncorks the jug.
"Is it mountain-dew ?" I ask, skeptically.
She laughs, the liquid flows clear as crystal into the glass ; Mr. Dupont
presents it, with a bow, to Aunt Markham, who receives and tastes it.
"Sulphur-water!" she says, as " Champagne!"
" Yes, sulphur-water," says Sylvia, exultantly, " quite as good—I mean as
bad— as that in Greenbrier, Virginia, of which you are so fond!"
"Not quite so good, my dear," says Aunt Markham, tasting again, with the
air of a connoisseur. " It is not so strong as the Green-brier sulphur."
"It is strong enough," says Sylvia. "I tasted it and thought it so
abominable that I determined to bring you some at once. So Mr. Dupont went
to a house on a hill—"
" All houses are on hills in this country," I say, parenthetically.
" Except those that are in coves," says Sylvia. "He borrowed the jug
there, and
" But I thought you made the journey on Aunt Markham's behalf, and from
this it appears that you did not think of her until you were at the
spring? "
" I will tell you all about it at dinner," says the young lady, flying
up-stairs.
At dinner we hear an account of the expedition.
" To begin at the beginning," says Sylvia, " the French Broad is a most
beautiful river. We crossed it on a long bridge, and I made Mr. Dupont
stop in the middle while 1 took in the view. On one side the stream— which
is so clear that its water is a translucent emerald—winds through a
fertile valley, with Smith's Creek—why don't they give things better names
?—flowing into it, draped over with lovely trees and vines. On the other
side there are bold, green hills, rising abruptly from the water's edge,
round the base of which the river makes a sweeping curve as it disappears
from sight. It was SO charming that I could not bear to come back, and Mr.
Dupont, seeing that I was anxious to go farther—"
"H'm!" says Charley.
" Said that he remembered having been here when a child, and staying at a
place called Deaver's Springs, a few miles from Asheville. ' It was a very
pretty place,' he said, ' if I could remember where it was.' I suggested
that we should ask the direction from some inhabitant of the country—which
we accordingly did, and heard that we must 1 drive straight on.' So we
drove straight on, along an excellent ridge road, with mountains
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
to right of us, mount inns to left of us, mountains before us and behind
us, I have never conceived any thing so beautiful as the lights and shades
on those superb heights, or their exquisite colors. Once we saw rain
falling far away among the purple gorges, with the <*un shining on it, and
the effect was fairly divine 1"
"A very common effect among mountains," says Erie.
" I am sorry for people who can only ad-
ignoring this remark, "that we drove on, forgetting all about time and
distance, until after a while we reached some bars, where we had been
directed to ' turn of—or, rather, u> turn in. Mr. Dupont let them down,
and from a house across the road several children came rushing to mind the
gap while we went to the spring. The road into which we turned led us past
a log-cabin, in front of which two or three stout men were lazily smoking
and gossiping. We asked for a tumbler—were
mire uncommon things," says Sylvia, "when the things that are best worth
admiring in the world are all of them common. Mr. Dupont fully agrees with
me that this is the most beautiful country in America."
" I wonder if he has seen them all ? " says Charley,
" We were so engrossed," Sylvia proceeds,
given one of thick, green glass, and drove on. Mr. Dupont pointed out a
hill on the left at the site of the hotel which was once quite a place of
resort."
" I have heard of Deaver's Springs," says Aunt Markham. "The hotel was
burned, I believe."
" Yes, burned and never rebuilt; but the
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
springs are still there, with a pavilion over them. We drove down the hill
at the risk of smashing the phaeton or breaking our necks—for, having come
so far, of course we felt it incumbent on us to drink some of the
water.—As soon as I tasted it, I thought of you, auntie, and I sent Mr.
Dupont back to the house to get a vessel in which we could bring some to
you. He returned with the jug you have seen, and I filled it myself." "
Thank you, my dear," says Aunt Mark-
" The moral of the story," says Eric, " is that this young lady was going
to see the French Broad, and the only glimpse of the river to be obtained
between Asheville and Deaver's Springs is what you see while crossing it."
" The moral of the story is that the best philosophy in life is to enjoy
all that you can, when you can," says Sylvia, gaily.
CHAPTER III.
" And always, lie the landscape what it may-Blue misty hill, or sweep of
glimmering plain-It is the eye's endeavor still to gain The fine, faint
limit of the bounding day. God haply, in this mystic mode, would fain Hint
of a happier home, far, far away."
"AND this is Beaucatcher in front of us! " says Sylvia. "Such a fine height
deserves a better name."
"The name is vulgarly foolish," says Eric, "but, as far as absolute
ugliness goes, there are worse within the borders of Buncombe. What do you
think of creeks named Hominy, Cane, Turkey, Sandy Mush—? "
" 0 Eric ! "
" Literally true, I assure you. Then there •re Beaver Dam, Bull, and
Flat—all clear, rushing mountain-streams."
"It is infamous!" says Sylvia, with the most feeling indignation.
"Something ought to be done—the Legislature ought to interfere 1 If the
Anglo-Saxon settlers had no sense of poetry in their own rude
organizations, they might at least have spared the Indian nomenclature,
which is beautiful and appropriate wherever it is found."
"Yes, it is beautiful," says Eric, who has a passion for all Indian names,
and repeats them with the lingering intonation which makes them thrice
musical. "Compare with
such a nomenclature as I have just men-tioned, Swannanoa, Nantahala, Tuckaseegee, Hiawassee, Cheowah, Feloneke, and Tahkeeostee—all Cherokee
names, and all possess-ing excellent significations."
"What, are the significations?" I ask.
"Swannanoa means 'Beautiful;' Nantahala,' Woman's Bosom,' from the rise
and fall if its breast of waters; Tuckaseegee, 'Ter-rapin Water;'
Cheowah,'River of Otters; Feloneke, ' Yellow River;' and Tahkeeostee —the
Cherokee name of the French Broad—
the most expressive of all, for it means "Baking River."
"And no doubt there were any number, just as admirable, which have been
lost," says Sylvia. "It is unbearable 1 We do not find that the French or
Spanish settlers left such barbarities behind them."
"No," says Victor DuPont, who is walking by her side, " I have been
thinking, while Mr. Markham spoke, of the names in Louisiana and Texas.
None of them lire ugly unless—forgive me!—they are English. Many melodious
Indian names are left, und those which the first settlers gave are full of
a religious poetry — such as Laguna del Madre, Isla del Padre, Bay of St.
Louis, Bayou St.-Denis, lie au Breton."
"Those are certainly very different from Smithville and Jonesville, and
Big Pigeon River," says Sylvia, "but I wish the Indian names could have
been preserved everywhere."
This conversation takes place as we walk out of Asheville along the
winding road which leads to Beaucatcher. The sun is sinking low toward the
western mountains, spreading a mantle of gold over the uplands, and
leaving the glades and dells full of softly-toned shadows. Eric and I form
the advance-guard of the party. We have been tried friends and comrades
for many a day, and, when we were younger, he often paid me the compliment
of wishing I were a boy. Sylvia and Victor come next, Charley and Adele
loiter in the rear. Scattered around in every direction are villa-like
houses " bosomed high in tufted trees;" before us are the green hills—
that in a different country would be esteemed mountains—behind, the
marvelous peaks at which we are forbidden to place.
"Nobody must look round," cries Adele, playfully waving a flowering
branch. "You shall all be turned to stones, like the princes
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
In the story of the singing water if you do!
"The view is not to be devoured piecemeal," says Charley, " but to be
taken whole L —like an oyster—from the top of the knob to which we are
bound."
So we go on, with our backs to the glory which is behind. The ascent of Beaucatcher is not difficult. A very excellent road leads over it to a
highly-cultivated cove in the mountains behind, where day begins an hour
or two later, and ends an hour or two earlier, than in Asheville. We leave
this road at the gap where it crosses the mountain, and follow a steep
path to the top of the knob which rises on the right.
" One could not easily drive up here," says
Sylvia, as we clamber over the rocks, " but it would be quite possible to
ride without difficulty."
"Shall we try it to-morrow, if saddle-horses are to be found in Asheville
? " asks her attendant.
" I thought we were to return to the Sul-phur Spring to-morrow," she
says, laughing.
Eric arid I reach the summit first. It is smooth, level, and green. There
is a grass-grown fortification where a Confederate bat-tery was once
planted, and close beside it a dead tree that from Asheville, and miles
be-
yond, presents the perfect appearance of a large cross.
We mount the fortification just as the sun sinks behind the distant
mountains. At our feet Asheville is spread, but we scarcely glance at the
picture which the town presents, crowning the verdant beauty of its summer
hills, with the fertile valleys of the French Broad and Swannanoa on each
side. Our gaze turns beyond—to the azure world that stretches, far as the
eye can reach, to the golden gate-way of the sun—an infinity of
loveliness, with the sunset radiance trembling on the crests of more than
a hundred peaks. The atmosphere is so transparent that it is impossible to
say how far the range of one's vision extends. Mountains rise behind
mountains, until they recede away into dimmest distance, their trending
lines lying faint and far against the
horizon. Blue as heaven, and soft as cloud?, the nearer ranges
stand—serried rank behind rank, and peak upon peak.
The view is so boundless and so beautiful, that the imagination is for a
time overwhelmed. Are those sapphire heights the Delectable Mountains?—and
do those dazzling clouds veil the jasper walls of the city of God? It
almost seems so. The sunset sky is a miracle of loveliness—of tints which
it would be presumption to attempt to describe— and the majestic sides of
Pisgah grow softly porkpie as the incarnadine glow
" Oh, what a scene!" says Sylvia, with a long sigh. She stands like one
entranced, gazing at the farthest peaks where their blue outlines melt
into the sunset gold.
" I scarcely thought there were so many mountains in the world," says
Addie DuPont.
" It is one great charm of the Asheville views," says Eric, without
looking round— he is standing in front, with his arms folded
—" that they possess such magnificent expanse, and all the effect of
farthest distance. It is difficult to exaggerate the advantages of the
incomparable situation of (he town— especially in the fact that, although
surrounded by mountains, it is not overshadowed, but regards them from a
sufficient distance, and it sufficient elevation, to behold them like
this."
" I see several depressions, like gaps, in the chain," I observe. " What
are they? "
"They are gaps," Eric answers. "That
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
west is the gorge of the French Yonder is the Homminy Gap—there
farthest
Broad, Yonder is the Homminy Gap—the Hickory-Nut. Swannanoa is in the
east."
" Don't let us go home," says Sylvia. " Let us vive in this land of the
sky forever. It is enchanted."
"I think it is," says Victor DuPont.
" As a Frenchman remarked of Niagara, it is ' grand e— magnifique very
good!'" says Charley. " Do you mean to live just here? Shall we build you
a cottage, and call the hill—to the absurd name of which you very justly
object—Mount Sylvia ? "
"The name would suit it very well," I say. "It is sylvan enough."
"Woo," says Eric, "don't build a cottage here. " Wait until I show you the
view from McDowell's Hill. It is finer than this."
Chorus: "Finer than this ! Impossible!"
" Wait and see," says our leader.
But we refuse to entertain such an idea. With the enthusiasm of ignorance,
we cannot believe that any thing—not even the view from the Black Mountain
itself—can surpass the scene spread before us in softest beauty, to the
farthest verge of the dying day. We sit on the fortification und watch the
fires of sunset slowly fade, and the lovely dusk of summer steal over the
laud. Winds laden with the freshness of the great hills come to us from
remote distances. Venus gleams into sight like a tremulous diamond in the
delicate sky. The immense expanse, the great elevation, seem to embody at
once infinity and repose.
" This is delightful!" says Charley. " We may fancy ourselves
lotus-eaters, ' propped oil j beds of amaranth' far above the world."
Sylvia smiles; and, without turning her eyes from the distant scene, she
repeats in tlie sweetest tone of her sweet voice:
Let us swear an oath, and keep it with an equal mind,
In the hollow lotus-laud to live and He reclined
On the hills like gods together, careless of mankind.
For they lie beside their nectar, and the bolts are hurled
Far below them in (he valleys, and the clouds fierce lightly curled
Round their golden boosts, girdled with the gleaming world.'"
"That was all very well for the gods," lays Eric, " but we have no nectar,
and your
house is not yet built, Sylvia; therefore we must go down to supper."
Let us stay a little
hours of life are short," " Let us enjoy them to
Chorus; "Not yet longer."
" The enchanted I says Victor DuPont. the last minute."
comes," says Eric, walking away.
It does not come for some time. We cannot resolve to break the spell which
rests over us. We talk very little, and that little in low tones. It is
enough to see the splendor of the west grow faint and more faint, while
the far, heavenly mountains change from blue to tender gray. Suddenly
Charley lifts himself on his elbow and points toward the east. We turn and
see the silver face of the full moon rising slowly over the tree-tops into
the hyacinth sky.
The appearance of her pale, pure majesty above the chain of hills that
stretch eastward to the Black, fills our cup of pleasure to the brim. It
is a scene to hold in remembrance while life shall last. We linger until
we see lights like stars, gleaming here und there in Asheville. Then we
know that our enchanted hour has ended.
" At least one enchanted hour," says Sylvia, as Mr. DuPont folds her shawl
around her, "but I hope that there are many more in reserve for us. Like
Moses, I have had a glimpse of the Promised Land, and now 1 shall not be
content till I have seen everything that is to be seen."
Silver lights and dark shadows are lying on the streets of Ashville when,
foot-sore and weary, we cross the large open square in the business part
of the town, and turn into the street which leads to our hotel. To tired
and hungry humanity, the lights blazing out from the last are more
cheerful than the beauty of the great constellations shining overhead;
and, although Eric has made one or two astronomical remarks, we have not
paid them" the attention which no doubt they deserve.
" To-morrow night we will go to Battery Porter and study astronomy at our
leisure," says Sylvia. "To-night I shall first do full justice to the
cuisine of the 'Eagle,' then I shall beg Mr. DuPont to play for me the '
Cradle Song,' und perhaps a strain of Mendelssohn. After that I shall say
good night to everybody, I shall go to bed, and 1 shall sleep—like a top!"
"I thought you would have said like au angel," says Victor.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;"
"But angels never sleep," says Charley.
This programme is carried out. After supper the young Creole goes to the
piano, shrugs his shoulders in expressive disgust over its untamed
condition, and makes Sylvia
understand that it is only because she desires it that he condescends to
touch so poor an instrument. But when he begins to play, he draws forth,
even from it, such melody that the chattering groups which fill the room
are bushed into silence. His sister is right—he. It is an admirable
musician, an amateur evidently, but cultivated in taste and technique as
few amateurs are. His music is in the lullaby key which Sylvia suggested —
the " Cradle Song" for which she asked, and those exquisite, dreamy
nocturnes in which German composers excel—until at last he turns and asks
with a smile if she is asleep.
" Xot yet," she answers, " but, if this goes on, I soon shall be. It is
like mesmerism."
" Before you go," he says, " listen to what I thought of when we came down
that hillside this evening with the moonlight and delicate shadows all
about us."
His lissome fingers sweep the keys, and the next instant we hear the
Maries lightly tripping over the greensward in the wonderful scherzo of
Berlioz's " Queen Map." The fairy-like measure seems to us—who have so
lately looked on the scene which suggested it to the musician's
recollection—filled with a double grace and sentiment. Queen Map's court,
if we had surprised them at their revels, could scarcely have charmed us
more.
When the strain ceases, Sylvia looks at the musician with her eyes
shining.
" Whenever I think of this evening," she says, " I shall always think of
that."
" And whenever I hear or play it, I shall think of you," says the young
man.
" I am afraid this is going to be a very serious flirtation;" I say to
myself, as I walk across the room to where Aunt Turnham is silting, trying
to look interested in a conversation on mineralogy, which Eric is holding
with a gentleman well known for his devotion to that science. I am rather
inclined to like mineralogy—at least to the extent of taking an interest
in probable diamonds and emeralds—so, I join the group, and receive a
great deal of information on the mineral wealth of Western North Carolina,
which unhappily I forget as soon as it is acquired.
Aldie DuPont is, meanwhile, the centre of a group at the other end of the
apartment. She is charmingly dressed, and her gay, vivacious manners have
a fascination which the men surrounding her plainly feel.
have charms to soothe the savage, but not the jealous, breast. Some lime
since he muttered something about smoking, and took his departure. In a
lull of the conversation around me, I hear Adele's light tones addressing
her court.
" What birds of passage you all seem to be! No two of you come from the
same point, no two of you are going to the same point. It reminds me of
the old nursery game—' One flew east, and one flew west, and one flew over
the eagle's nest."
"I wish you would fly with us to-morrow," says one of the gentlemen,
gallantly.
" But with the best disposition in the world to be obliging, I could not
fly with all of you," she answers, laughing.
When I retire presently and fall asleep, my dreams are a strange mélange
of blue mountains and tripping fairies, of Aladdin's garden—the mineralogy
is accountable for this—and men in strange guise flying east and west and
north and south over endless peaks. Notwithstanding these freaks of fumy,
my slumbers are sound and sweet, for Buncombe nights are delicious in
their coolness—nights of which to dream in the heal-parched,
mosquito-haunted low country.
I sleep late the next morning, and, when I wake, Sylvia is gone. I rub my
eyes and
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
took again. There is no doubt of the fact— her bed is empty, her boots
have vanished. She is certainly gone. I gaze around in mute amazement. In
all the twenty years that I have had the pleasure of her acquaintance,
such a thing has never happened before as that, of her own accord—without
the most stringent outside pressure-1—Sylvia should rise with the lark.
While I make my toilet I wonder what this strange caprice can possibly
mean, and it is not until I am nearly dressed that the mystery is solved.
Then the door opens, and the pleasant, dusky face of our chambermaid
appears. She has come to tell me that " the gentleman" wants to know if I
am ready for breakfast.
The gentleman in question is Eric, so I reply that I shall be ready
presently. " You can hand me a necktie," I add ; " and pray, Malvina, do
you know what has become of my sister?"
Malvina is evidently surprised. She pauses on her way to the trunk, and
stares at me.
" I thought you would have heard the young lady, ma'am," she replies, "
though it's true she was very keerful not to make a noise to disturb you.
I waked her at five o'clock, and she went to ride."
" To ride !" I ejaculate. " With whom ?"
" I think she called the gentleman Mr.— Mr. Dewing," answers Malvina.
Then I remember that there were signs of a secret understanding between
Sylvia and Victor DuPont the night before, and, when they parted, I caught
the words " sunrise" and " Beaucatcher "—but I was too sleepy to give them
due weight, or to be equal to that mathematical calculation known as
putting two and two together. Now, every thing is plain. "Sunrise — ah!" I
say to myself. " Not difficult to understand what that means! "
Leaving my room, I meet Aunt Markham issuing from hers, and as we go
down-stairs together I tell her of Sylvia's escapade. She is surprised and
concerned.
" To mount a strange horse—how rash ! She may be thrown—there may be a
terrible accident — who knows whether Mr. DuPont understands horses ? "
"Be is old enough to understand them," I say—and just then a cheery voice
speaks above us:
" Good-morning, Madame I — good - morning, mademoiselle. Ah, what a
charming day!—is it not?—how cool, how fresh, how delicious!"
We glance up. Descending the stairs is Madame Later—Adele DuPont's aunt
various lady, with dark eyes, a sallow complexion, and a foot like a
fairy.
" It is pleasant to think that, while we have been sleeping, those dear
young people have been enjoying the first freshness of This delightful
morning!" she goes on, after we have returned her greeting. "Cherie petite
Adele was so eager about her ride that she must have waked at five
o'clock. I saw them off from my window. Ah, it was heavenly, the air
sweet, the birds singing !—and then I returned to bed like a sluggard."
" So Miss DuPont went to ride, also," says Aunt Markham. " I wonder if
there is no danger about the horses ? Do you think Mr. DuPont was quite
sure that they were safe ? When one gentleman has charge of two ladies—"
" Pardon ! " says Madame Lamoure, looking a little surprised, " but Mr.
Kenyon went also. He accompanied Adele. Victor escorted your charming
niece. Be sure she is quite safe under his protection. He is a dauntless
rider," etc , etc.
I do not hear the end of the panegyric on Mr. DuPont, because I am so much
surprised by this news of Charley. If it is strange tliat Sylvia should
have been smitten with a mania for the beauties of Nature, sufficient to
rouse her from her slumbers at daylight, what can be thought of an
indolent gentleman, who has consistently and persistently declined to
appreciate those beauties, when he also leaves his pillow for the saddle
at five o'clock in the morning ?
We go to breakfast, and are devoting ourselves to beefsteak, hot cakes,
and coffee, when the mutational equestrians make their appearance. They
come in directly from horseback —the girls still in their habits, loose
locks of hair floating, fresh color mantling, youth and good spirits in
looks, manner, and bearing. They cause quite a sensation in the large
dining-room as they make their way to our table. Sylvia sits down and
heaves a deep sigh—a common mode with her of expressing inexpressible
feelings.
" Oh, it was heavenly ! " she says.
I am hungry as a wolf," remarks Charley. " What will I have ?" for the
waiter
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY';'-' OR,
" Any thing and every tiling ! When a man has been riding on an empty
stomach for three hours, he is ready to exhaust your bill-of-fare."
"Mrs. Markham," cries Adele, eagerly, ."it was lovely beyond everything
you Olin imagine!— Victor, tell them all about it 1 I am famished."
"I wonder if she thinks Victor is not famished, too ? " says Eric, under
his mustache.
However that may be, Victor obeys. Like most Frenchmen and people of
French blood, he describes dramatically — his dark eyes quicken, he uses
many gestures.
"Wlien we rode out of Asheville," he says, " it was very early — some time
before and the mist, like a white curtain
rapped
We knew that this would add greatly to the effect if we could reach the
top of the hill on which we were yesterday evening, in time to see the sun
rise, so we rode at a brisk pace and soon
The Morning Ride found ourselves there — mademoiselle and myself in
advance of Adele and Mr. Ken-yon."
" My horse was slow," says Adele, " and I grew tired of urging him on—I
knew we should reach there soon enough."
"We rode up to the fortification," continues Mr. DuPont. "The east was all
aglow with radiance—the most beautiful colors momentarily changing on the
sky—and the re-
flexion fell over and. gilded the great sea of Viper at our feet, which
the wind was gently agitating into billows."
" The resemblance to the sea was perfect," says Sylvia, eagerly. "You
cannot imagine any thing more delusive ! The waves caught the light on
their crests, just as ocean-waves do. All below us—allover Asheville and
the distant mountains—there was nothing to be seen but this boundless,
rippling expanse, aglow with tints so roseate and so radiant that we could
only stand and gaze in breathless wonder. The effect lasted I cannot tell
how long, but for some time."
" At least half an hour," says Mr. DuPont. " Then the sun rose over the
lulls behind us, and his rays fell horizontally over the shifting sea of
vapor. Fop a minute it was like a vastly deep of molten gold heaving and
tossing at our feet. Then it began to dissolve, and peaks tinged with the
same beautiful tints appeared here and there like islands."
" Pisgah first!" says Sylvia. " You should have seen how superbly the
great crest came up out of the mist which still clung around the lower
heights. Then gradually the other mountain-tops appeared, and we saw
islands and continents, diversified by seas and lakes —all bathed in the
most delicious colors!"
"I'll tell you what it was like," says Charley, speaking for the first
time. " It was as if the world was being newly created, and we saw the
water divided from the lined."
"And every thing was so fresh!" cries Sylvia. "The earth seemed, as
Charley says, new made. I don't think I have ever known an hour of purer
delight than that which we spent on Beaucatcher—odious name! V
" Mount Sylvia," says Victor DuPont, with
" Well, Mount Sylvia,- then. Even after our sea was dried up, the mist of
early morning still wrapped in soft haze the far heavenly heights of the
glorious prospect. Asheville remained submerged to the last, but, when
finally we saw its green hills and scattered houses emerge, we turned our
horses' heads, and, piloted by Charley, descended Beau-Mount Sylvia at the
back. The road led us down, through a shaded gorge of the hills, to the
valley of the Swannanoa. Oh, if I could—if I only could tell you of all
the beautiful things we saw ! We rave over evening scenes—over the long
shadows and westering
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
light—yet how pathetic it is compared with the joyousness of early
morning! The effects of light and shade are somewhat similar, but the
spirit is so different. If you could have seen the rocks this morning
blushing in the sun, the mosses and lichens, gemmed with dew and hung with
fairy-like cobwebs, the ineffable freshness of the whole landscape—as if
Nature I'm washed her face
—and then the river, when we reached it— ah!"
"Total bankruptcy in the matter of adjectives!" says Enc, aside. "I have
been anticipating it for some time. Wilt a fortunate thing that bliss
DuPont's appetite is so excellent, else she would probably take up the
strain and chant for us the beauties of the Swannanoa!"
After breakfast I chance to be coming down-stairs just as Charley is
standing alone in the hall, lighting' a cigar. I take advantage of the
opportunity to walk up to him, to button-hole him, and conduct him into a
private corner. Here I look straight into his eyes.
"Charley," I say, "what is the meaning of your conduct this morning? What
unholy-lowed influence is at work with you ? Such a thing has never been
known before that you
—you should rise at daylight for the pleasure of riding several miles with
a young lady! Tell me, honestly and seriously, are you flirting, or are
you falling in love, with this girl ? "
"Women's heads always run on flirting and Calling in love," replies
Charley, with an air of carelessness, " Suppose I return your question and
ask you whether Sylvia is flirting or falling in love with Monsieur le
Musician
" What insufferable nonsense! How dare you imagine that she is doing
either? Can she not be civil and agreeable to the young man without
incurring such suspicions ?"
"And can I not be civil and agreeable to Miss DuPont without incurring
ditto ? "
"Of course, if you choose to take that tone about it, there is nothing to
be said," I remark, with dignity, " but, if you think I do not understand
the matter, you are vastly mistaken !"
"I don't know that there is any thing to understand," says Charley,
coolly, "except that Sylvia ia amusing herself with Mr. DuPont
"I hope you are not both playing with fire," I say, vexed.
" If we are, we shall probably be scorched," returns Monsieur
Imperturbable, walking away.
CHAPTER IV.
" A land of streams! some, like a downward
Slow-dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go;
And some through wavering lights and shadows broke,
Rolling a Blmnb'rona sheet of foam below.
They BMW the gleaming river seaward flow
From the inner land. Far off three mountain-tops
Stood sunset-flushed."
"ALICE," says Sylvia, as she stands before the mirror arranging her hat,
"I shall ride with Mr. DuPont this afternoon."
Preparing for
" Very well," I answer, indifferently, being engaged just then in fitting
on my gloves and gazing out of the window. " There seem to be a great many
people here," I remark, " and such a number of ox-carts !"
" And I want you to go with Charley,"
point, and I am allowing Miss DuPont to she proceeds.
amuse herself with me. Voilottout!" "Indeed!" I say, roused to interest by
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
this. "How kind of you to think of me! But there is one slight objection
to my going with Charley—he has not asked me to do so."
"But you can ask him to go with you," she says, persuasively. " You can
take him in the phaeton, and make Eric go on horseback with Adele."
"If he and Eric were puppets, and if I had any desire for Charley's
society, I might —perhaps. As it is, such a thing is impossible. Why do
you suggest it? "
"Because I don't want Adele to have the pleasure of flirting with him," is
the candid reply. " She is a dreadful flirt, and has a particular knack of
making fools of men. Of course, I am not afraid of her making a fool of
Charley in any serious manner, but still I should like her to be
disappointed—and you know she could do nothing with Eric."
" I know that I have occasionally heard of such a thing as Satan reproving
sin. If you want Charley looked after, why don't you do it yourself?"
"How can I, with Mr. DuPont on my hands? "
"Turn Mr. Pulpit over to me. I will take charge of him."
I make this suggestion in a spirit of malice which Sylvia under stands.
She takes up her gloves as she quietly replies :
"Mr. DuPont asked me if I would not ride
sidle, therefore, for me to turn him over to any one else."
" I am afraid Charley will become a hopeless victim to Miss DuPont's
fascinations, then," I say, coolly.
Events verify this prediction. When we go down-stairs, we find the horses
standing before the door, and Charley in the act of assisting Miss DuPont
to her saddle. This feat, is accomplished very well on both sides.
The lady puts one dainty foot—all creole women have pretty feet—into the
gentleman's hand, he lifts her, she springs, and presto! the thing is
done. Mr. Kenyon swin»9 himself into his own saddle as quickly, then turns
and waves his hand to us— " ' She is won I we are off, over bush, bank,
and scour—
They'll have fleet steeds that follow,' " he says, as they ride away.
"Their steed were not particularly fleet the last time they rode, were
they, Mr. DuPont ?" says Sylvia, looking after them. " Adele, you know,
said her horse wouldn't go; but he seems to go now very well. I hope they
will miss the road for their hypocrisy!"
" Charley has probably taken care to make inquiries," says Eric, handing
me into the small phaeton.
Few rivers have been more praised and rhymed than the Swannanoa, toward
which
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
we take our way. To those who have not penetrated far into the mountains,
und seen wilder and lovelier streams, it is certainly a thing of beauty.
The stream itself is clear as crystal, and flows with glancing swiftness
between its vine-draped banks, while it is scarcely possible to imagine a
more charming picture of fertility than the valley presents, We follow the
river Cur several miles—every turn opening fresh scenes of loveliness—and
finally pause at a ford where Sylvia and Mr. DuPont ride into the stream.
Lances of sunlight dart through the lace-work of shade, touch the
sparkling current, and dapple the glossy coats of the horses. The rippling
river makes a background in long perspective for the two riders, and on
the opposite side the road leads up between high, picturesque banks.
"Is not this delightful?" cries Sylvia. " One might expect to see Diana
and all her nymphs. Instead, I see an ox-cart coming in one direction, and
two horsemen in another."
The ox-cart is lumbering directly down
upon the phaeton in which I am seated, so I cry out to Eric for rescue. He
comes and drives into the river just as the two horse-
men' ride' down between the sloping, slide-arched banks.
At this double invasion of the ford, Sylvia and her escort turn their
horses to ride out, and in doing so face the last-comers. One of them
stops and lifts his hat.
" Miss Norwood ! " he cries. '' What an unexpected pleasure!"
Sylvia checks her horse, and holds out her hand with a laugh.
"Is it possible this is you, Mr. Lanier? " she says.
Eric and I glance at each other. We both think of Charley. Of ail Sylvia's
suitors—and she has not a few—Ralph Laurie is the most devoted, the most
persevering, and the most wealthy. Consequently, he is the one whom all
her friends and acquaintances have long since decided to be Destined by
Providence for her.
Mr. Lanier is plainly delighted at the encounter. "To think that I should
meet you here-! " he says, rapturously. " My uncle has a country-seat near
Fiat Rock, and I have been spending a week or two with him. We only came
to Asheville this morning, and I was thinking of leaving the mountains
tomorrow."
"Leaving!—so early in the season?" says Sylvia. " What a strange idea ! "
" I find this country very dull," says Mr. Lanier, shrugging his
shoulders. " I am no great admirer of Nature. I prefer civilization and
society. I was thinking of going to the White Sulphur and Saratoga, and
hoped very much to meet you."
" You would have been disappointed," she says, coolly. " I have become an
Arcadian, and abjured all resorts of that kind. We are just beginning an
extensive tour through this country which bores you so much.—By-the-by,
here are Alice and Eric— and let me present Mr. DuPont."
Hands are shaken and proper speeches made—the Swannanoa, the while,
rippling gently round us, the sunbeams slanting, the vines drooping, the
setting of the whole scene idyllic enough for a pastoral poem. We learn
that Mr. Lanier is accompanying his uncle to pay a visit to a friend who
lives near by.
"Nonsense!" says Eric. "A man does not come to Arcadia to pay or receive
visits. We are going to McDowell's Hill for the sunset. You had better
come with us."
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY:" OR
" Probably Mr. Lanier is no admire of sunsets," says Sylvia, with a slight
touch of
Mr. Lanier is quick enough to hear
this. " On the contrary, I admire them exceedingly," he easy. " If my
uncle will excuse me, I will accompany you with pleasure."
The uncle readily excuses him, so he turns his horse and rides by Sylvia's
side up the road down which he came. As Eric and I follow, we exchange a
few remarks about the .pleasure in store for Charley.
"Poor fellow!" I say. "An evil fate seems to war against him. I could not
help hoping that on this expedition he might have a fair field for once;
yet still—first Mr. DuPont appeared, und now Ralph Lanier, hit most
formidable rival."
" Charley is his own worst rival," says Eric, touching the horse sharply.
" If Sylvia ends by marrying somebody else, it will be his fault, and I
shall not pity him. A man should be ready to fight for every thing —
fortune, fame, and the woman he loves."
When we reach McDowell's Hill we find all the equestrians assembled,
Sylvia attended by her two cavaliers, Charley standing with an air of
great nonchalance by Adele's horse. Only the very best actors do not
overact a part, however, and there is a trifle too much nonchalance in
this young gentleman's bearing for perfect unconcern. The manner in which
his hat is pushed back as he looks up into Adele's eyes is significant of
irritated defiance. As soon ns we draw up, he turns abruptly and comes to
the side of the phaeton.
"Where did you pick up that fellow?" he asks.
"He is a fish caught in the Swannanoa," says Eric. " I think you may find
him a kindred spirit: he is nearly as fond of Nature, and of the exertion
which a liking of that kind entails, as you are."
"I should not judge so from his appearance," says Charley, with a sneer.
Now, it must be stated that there is nothing in Mr. Lanier's appearance to
draw forth a sneer. He is dressed as men in cities dress, but that is, to
say the least, not a heinous crime, and he would be called by most people
a very handsome man. Charley is oat handsome, though his fret, pleasant
face infinitely more agreeable than Ralph easier';. well-cut features. Is
blue eyes - OK into mine with in odd bind of appeal, and I say hurriedly,
"Don't be disconsolate, Charley — be talks of going to-morrow!" Then Eric
claims my attention for the view.
It is certainly fine, though not so extensive as that from Beaucatcher. At
our feet the hill shelves down abruptly, and two hundred feet below lies a
green expanse—the valleys of the French Broad and Swannanoa at their
junction. Here the Swannanoa, making a graceful curve on the verdant
plain, empties its waters into the channel of the beautiful stream which
has come from the far heights of the Balsam to seek it. It is only
possible to mark the winding course of its current by the trees that
fringe its banks, but the French Broad spreads out in full view—its
splendid "breast of waters " Shining in the glow of sunset. Bounding the
cultivated valley, green hills roll softly up, while beyond stretches the
blue-waving mountain-line, with the majestic outlines of Pisgah and the
Cold Mountain overtopping their lower brethren. Far and faint in the west
the trending heights that overlook Tennessee stand, their violet crests
outlined against a bed of glory into which the sun is sinking with great
pomp.
This portion of the view is like that which Beaucatcher commands, but
turning northward we have a prospect which no other point near Asheville
possesses. There, dark and massive, rise the great peaks of Craggy, and
the stately pinnacle of the Black. As usual, these mountains are
cloud-topped, and even at this distance—eighteen or twenty miles—wear the
deep shade of color which
running down from them form a chain of hills around the entire
northeastern horizon, and at their base lies Asheville, scattered over its
picturesque slopes.
" I am converted," says Mr. Lanier, breaking the silence. " The country
which contains such views ns this is worth seeing.— Miss Norwood, will you
accept a recruit for your party ?"
" I must refer you to Eric," says Sylvia. " I am not the leader of the
party, nor qualified to judge of your fitness for the service. I am
afraid, however, that, if you like society and civilization, yoa will be
disgusted with j the wilds to which we are going."
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
"But we shall take the best of society I find civilization with us," he
remarks, gallantly.
" We'll show you at least what a mountain-view is before we get back,"
says Charley. " Only hopeless ignorance could excuse anybody for thinking
this worth any special admiration."
There is a chorus of indignant dissent, in which only Sylvia fails to
join. She says, quietly; "We are both hopelessly ignorant then, Mr.
Lauier, for 1 think this the most beautiful view I have seen in the
mountains."
'• You have not yet seen any thing at all," says Charley. " Beaucatcher in
itself is very little, but it is finer than this, which proves that your
taste needs cultivation. Mr. Lanier, no doubt, will be able to assist you
in cultivating it."
What reply the young lady makes is not audible to the rest of the party,
but there is a flash in her eye and a flush on her cheek that do not bode
well for Master Charley.
After this hostilities are suspended while we watch the sun go down behind
the last chain of western heights. For several minutes after his disk has
disappeared, the mountains behind which he sank are transformed into
dazzling, translucent gold. The effect is indescribable.
" They cannot be mountains; they must be clouds," some one nays; but they
are mountains, though they lie like clouds on the distant horizon.
Meanwhile a hide of luminous color spreads over the blue chain encircling
the southern sky, and the wide breast of the French Broad is painted by
the magical splendor.
It is so beautiful that we linger until the fires of sunset have nearly
burned out, and Venus is shining in serene stite. Then we return to
Asheville by a road which leads through woods full of dusk shadows and
sweet odors. Arching shade droops over us; the air is inexpressibly fresh
and pure; we cross a bridge with the ripple of flowing water underneath ;
every sound seems " but an echo of tranquility " in the soft hush of the
summer twilight.
When we reach the hotel we find Aunt Markham on the piazza. The carriages
and horses have arrived, she tells us, and have made the trip very well.
"John" (the coachman) "assures me that the road over Hickory-Nut Gap is
excellent," she says. " We will certainly that way."
Rupert makes the same report.
" I saw no bad road at all," he says. " We
issued the Gap and came on to Asheville today easily."
Eric and Charley go to look after John and the horses, while Mr. Laurie
expresses again an intention of joining our party.
" The only way to travel through such a Duntry as this is In the manner
you propose," he says. " I can easily obtain a horse from my uncle if I
may be allowed to join
"We shall be happy to have you do so," says Aunt Markham, graciously.
She glances at Sylvia, and I know as well /hat she is thinking as if her
thoughts were expressed in words. As I turn and go up-stairs, I think
again, "Poor Charley!"
Two hours later the iron is rising, where we leave the hotel and take our
way to an elevated point in the western part of the town known as "Battery
Porter." We are advised against visiting this at night, and warned of
fences to be climbed and terrible dogs to be braved, but such trifles do
not weigh with tourists in search of a view.
Aunt Markham declines to accompany us, but Rupert volunteers to do SO. To
raise our spirits he draws from his pocket, and opens, an enormous knife.
"I could cut a dog's throat with that," he Buys.
I am amused at the order into which the procession fills. Miss DuPont
slips her hand with an air of proprietorship into Charley's
"You'll take care of me, I'm sure," she says, in a tone of confident
trust.
"I'll defy all the dogs in Asheville, if need be," he answers—but I see
him glance at Sylvia.
This young lady has in some intangible manner made it understood that she
prefers Mr. Lanier's attendance, therefore I find Mr. Dupont at my side.
He is courteous and at-' attentive, but a little melancholy. No doubt it
is trying to be coolly kid on the shelf when a new admirer appears on the
scene.- An Anglo-Saxon man under such circumstances sulks, or else (like
Charley) diverts his mind by flirting with some one else. This young
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
Creole is merely pensive, and we stroll along, talking of music—of
Schumann, and Wagner, and Thomas's orchestra—while Sylvia's gay laugh
floats back to us, and Eric and Rupert discuss the horses and the roads
behind. Before attempting the dangers of the narrow road which leads to
Battery Porter we decide to wait until the moon rises.
We pause, therefore, in a street bounded on one side by a low stone-wall,
beyond which is a sloping field, and on the other by a row of houses set
on the side of a hill, which rises in the rear to the elevation we desire
to ascend. Here, on the stone-wall, we sit down in a row and watch the
moon rise.
It is very beautiful. There is an alabaster glow all over the eastern sky,
against which the trees on the distant hilltops stand distinctly defined,
and the great cross on Beaucatcher is thrown into relief by the broad,
yellow shield of the moon herself. The circle of mountains all around the
horizon are bathed in radiance, while Asheville— which we partly
overlook—still lies in shadow. Lights gleam here and there from the
houses, foliage is darkly massed in every direction, overhead the stars
shine in the dark-blue sky with a brilliance which almost seems to equal
the advancing moonlight. From the field below us rises a dewy odor of
sweet, fresh grass.
" Come out and hear the waters shoot, the owlet hoot, the owlet boot;
Ton crescent moon—o golden boat—hone dim behind the tree,
The dropping thorn makes while the grass, O sweetest lass and sweetest
late.
Come out and smell the rocks of hay adown the
croft with me,"
It is Ralph Loftier who repeats this as he stands by Sylvia, and we think
the application, despite a few trifling inaccuracies, very good. The "
sweetest lass " looks up with her brightest smile. " How charming I" she
says. " What a picture those four lines paint!"
"Not any prettier picture than this," says Rupert. He is standing erect on
the wall, despite a suggestion from Charley that people may fancy the
Cardiff giant has arrived in their midst.
'* Or perhaps they will think that some imprudent person has found and
opened one of King Solomon's bottles," says Sylvia. " Rupert always
reminds me of those remark-able genii in tile ' Arabian Nights.' He is so
very long in proportion to his width—as if he had shot up out of a bottle
suddenly— and he can double himself into such a smile compass, that I
tiling; be could go back again, if necessary."
"I'm slink—that's the reason I look so tall," says Rupert. " But I
shouldn't think any thing in the way of height could astonish people here,
after some of the men I've seen. There! now she's over the trees I" (This
remark applies to the moon.) " Let us go on to Battery Porter.—Brother
Eric, hadn't we better open our knives?"
These weapons prove unnecessary. The dogs rush out and bark at us, making
that hideous with their uproar, but, deterred probe-ably by the imposing
appearance of our phalanx, they make no attack. We pass the point of
danger, and reach the open summit of the hill in safety.
Then what a picture is spread around 113 ! North, south, east, and west,
the eye sweeps over an apparently limitless prospect, bounded only by far,
faint mountain-lines, and bathed in a flood of enchantment. It is not
night, but sublimated day—white, lustrous, magical, and so still what we
hear the refrain which the French Broad is chanting as it takes its way
between the hills that overshadow it.
"How distinctly one hears that river!?' says Lanier. " It can't be far
away."
" Not more than half a mile, I suppose," answers Victor DuPont.
" How beautiful it must be in this light I" cries Sylvia, addressing the
company. " Let us go down there. It will be better than staying here."
"And returning to the hotel better than either," says Charley.
"Then do you return," she says. "But I don't think one can possibly have
too much of this divine beauty. All who are in favor of adjourning to the
French Broad please hold up their hands."
Three pairs of hands are immediately lifted—to wit, Mr. DuPont's. Mr..
Lanier's, and Rupert's. "I shall be well protected, at any rate," says
Sylvia, coolly. "Will nobody else come ?"
" I've no doubt everybody else will come," says Mr. Lanier. "How can they
resist such an invitation ?—Miss DuPont, you don't really mean to stay
behind? "
No, Adele does not mean to stay behind The French Broad by moonlight is
too tempting
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN B5T-WAYS.
for liner powers of resistance, even though the reluctance of her
attendant is patent to the dullest observation.
Carried away by the contagion of example, and feeling, in a measure, bound
to look after the others, Eric and I bring up the rear, and so we stroll,
in straggling procession, down, the winding, moonlit road, toward the
French Broad.
The least romantic of us feel repaid for our walk when we stand, at
length, on the bridge, and see the river flowing underneath, all silver
light and dark shadows. This bridge seems to mark the boundary of the
change which awaits the stream. Up to this point it in swift but placid,
impetuous yet not tumultuous, and flows through the loveliest of fertile
valleys—first in Transylvania, then in Buncombe. Looking up the stream we
see, lying whist in the moonlight, the broad fields of the last; but,
turning our gaze down the current, a very different picture greets us.
Sheer and bold rise the hills among which the river enters liege, and
which it will not leave again until it has cut its stormy way through to
Tennessee.
" It seems to invite us to follow it," says Sylvia, watching the sweeping
current, " Listen ! does it not say 'Come and follow me?' Why should we
not do so ? "
" Why not?" says Charley. " Yonder is a canoe. Let us embark and attempt
the through navigation of the French Broad."
" We can at least get into the canoe and take a row," says Ad^le. " What
is the good of water if one cannot go on it?"
" A row !—a pole, you mean," pays Charley. " That is a mere dug-out, with
half a foot of water in the bottom."
"I know all about poling," says Rupert, cheerfully. "I'll take you, Miss
DuPont."
But Miss DuPont thinks of her pretty boots, her dainty skirts, and
declines. "Dug-outs are muddy things," she says. " Now, at the Warm
Springs there are excellent boats."
"The Warm Springs I" says Sylvia. "That is what I mean—that is where the
river is inviting us. Why should we not go there at once?"
"There is no reason why we should not— if you like," says Eric.
"O mademoiselle," says Victor, reproachfully, " how can you be so cruel I
You promised that you would join our party. And now to talk of turning in
the opposite direction—"
" I don't think I promised, Mr. DuPont," says the young lady, calmly. " I
had no right to promise for the rest, you know. Of course, we can't decide
any thing without Aunt Murk. ham's consent; but I am inclined to think
that this might be the best time to go down to the Warm Springs. A little
gayety, now and then, is relished by the wisest men—and women, Asheville
is not very gay."
" But Nature!" says the young man, rather aghast. " I thought you were so
enthusiastic. I thought gayety would only annoy you !"
"Not at all," says Sylvia. "On the contrary, I like it—taken with Nature,
And then this magnificent river! I must see it before I go anywhere else.
I shall propose the Warm Springs to Aunt Fordham, tomorrow. Meanwhile, I
am going to get into the canoe, despite the half a foot of water, and
whoever likes may come and pole me."
CHAPTER V.
" Cliffs that rear their haughty head Hard o'er the river's darksome bed,
Where now all naked, wild, mid gray. Now waving all with greenwood spray;
The trees to every crevice clung And o'er the dell their branches hnug.
Anil there, ail splintered and uneven, The shivered rocks ascend to
heaven."
SYLVIA carries her point without mirth difficulty. None of us are averse
to turning our faces down the French Broad, and Aunt Markham is specially
pleased by the idea.
" It is a good plan," she says, '* because we shall escape joining the
DuPont party. That Madame—what is her name?—fatigues me to death with her
raptures and compliments."
" I think the Dupont party is, in a certain sense, at the bottom of the
suggestion," says Eric. " It changes our plan of travel altogether, but I
am not inconsolable. I can endure any thing better than traveling in a
gang, like convicts."
" You are very felicitous in your comparisons," says Charley. "I doubt
whether we shall get rid of DuPont, however. He is
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OF
so desperate that I think he will leave his own party to join our3."
"Perhaps you will exchange with him," says Sylvia. " I can't imagine how
you will support life without Adele."
"It will be difficult, no doubt," says Charley, serenely, " but in
traveling, as in politics, it is best to stand by one's party. If DuPont
joins us, I shall not greatly object. He is a degree or two better than
that fellow Lanier."
The gentleman designated in this complimentary manner, meanwhile intakes
his arrangements to join us. But, when we are in readiness to start, one
of those unavoidable misfortunes that sometimes befall summer travelers
occurs — the rainy season in August begins. For three days it rains
steadily—Asheville appearing the while depressingly dirty and dull—and it
is only on the fourth day that the clouds disperse a little, the carriages
are ordered, and we prepare to set forth.
The order of our going is soon arranged. Sylvia, Charley, and Mr. Lanier,
are on horseback; Aunt Markham, Rupert, and I, together with John, fill
the phaeton; Eric—who cannot endure that any one else should hold the
reins while he sits by—drives the "jersey," which serves as a
baggage-wagon, with Harrison (its nominal driver) by his side.
" So you have lent Charley your horse? " I say to him just before we
start. "It is more than he deserves after having refused to bring his
own."
" I thought it would be too cruel to sentence the poor fellow to the
carriage, with Lanier by Sylvia's side," he answers, "but, of course, we
will vary our modes of travel. If it does not rain, I shall invite you to
share my seat in the baggage-wagon, by way of relief from the carriage."
The clouds, however, are determined that this pleasure shall be
indefinitely deferred. As we drive down the long, muddy hill that leads
out of Asheville, we observe that they hang low on the mountains—always a
threatening sign — and, before we have traveled three miles, a white rain
is upon us. Much to her disgust, Sylvia is forced to enter the Carriage,
while Rupert mounts her horse; I here is a general enveloping in
water-proof Llama and coats, a consultation as to whether we shall turn
back, a unanimous vote to go an. and a resolute setting forward in the
teeth of the storm. It does not last very long; then there is a slight
interlude: the cloud* cease to rain, though they still curtain the sky in
watery grayness. We are by this time immediately tin the banks of the
river, following that famous "Buncombe turnpike' which for more than fifty
years was the grail highway of travel between North Carolina and 'the
Southwestern States. Originally an Indian trail, it has been and still
remains the most picturesque road in the mountains. The fall of the river
from Asheville to the Warm Springs — a distance of thirty-six miles — is
seven hundred feet, from which the rapidity of its current may be
conceived, and the height of the hills that overshadow it. As the gorge
deepens they tower higher and yet higher, these beautiful mountains,
sometimes round and swelling, at other times broken into cliff-like
escarpments, with great masses of rock overhanging the narrow pass, and
tropical verdure feathering every ledge and point. What studies of form,
and color are here for a future generation of artists, no words can fitly
say. The road, as it stretches before us, is a picture never to be
forgotten. On one side the whirling, tumultuous river
channel; on the other steep hill-sides hang, dark with shade, green with
ferns, damp with trickling streams. The road turns, and there is a fairy
glen, down which a white cascade comes leaping over its rocks "to join the
brimming river," or a narrow stretch of valley, planted generally in tall,
rustling corn.
We are not allowed to enjoy this charming beauty with any satisfaction to
ourselves very long. The clouds gather again, the rain begins once
more—this time with a steady, settled persistence, that gives no hope of
abatement; and presently Rupert rides up to the side of the carriage.
" Brother Eric Says we shall have to stop at Alexander's. He declares it
is impossible to go on to the Springs in such weather as this. It is
disagreeable to us, and hard on the horses."
" What a bore !" says Sylvia. " Alexander's is no doubt a very pleasant
place, but when one starts with an object in view, one likes to attain it.
What must be, must be, however. We should certainly see little of the
gorge in this deluge."
Consequently we make our first halt at Alexander's, ten miles below
Asheville. No
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
house of its kind is more widely known, or more deservedly popular, than
this delightful hostelry. One secret of its charm is in the fact that
there is no aping of the modern hotel about it. Nothing can be more
quaint, more old-fashioned, more comfortable, and thoroughly
unpretentious, than all its arrangements, A pleasant farm-house on a large
scale, with a post-office and bowling-alley in front, a bridge crossing
the river, and high, green hills rising abruptly around
—this is Alexander's. Of the comfort of its lodging, the excellence of its
table, thousands of travelers can speak. Withal it is a dreamy, restful
place, where even the racing river grows tranquil, and, shut in by the
great hills, one feels as if one might enjoy that repose of mind and body
which is rare in this feverish age.
We find the house, as usual, full of guests
—so full that Mr. Alexander demurs about receiving us; but, moved to
compassion by the towering skies and our drenched condition, finally
agrees to stretch a point and take us in. This is something for which to
be grateful, since their-e is no cessation in the steady down-pour for the
rest of the day. The river—usually green as Niagara—sweeps by, a turbid
flood, and sight-seeing is utterly tut of the question. We play whist on
the vine-draped piazza, go over to the bowling, alley under umbrellas,
grow friendly with all the inmates of the house, study maps, and cairn all
about the great floods of the past spring.
" Almost all the bridges in this part of the country were swept away,"
says Mr. Alexander. "The bridge over Laurel went
—you for I the river now—and the bridge at the Warm Springs over the
French Broad."
"Do we ford there?" asks Aunt Mark-ham, terrified at such a prospect.
" No, there is a ferry."
" One of the most inconvenient modes fiat ever was devised for crossing a
stream," says Eric.
" I don't think we are likely to cross any streams in any manner very
soon," says Charley. " The clouds look as if they had settled steadily to
business, and meant to rain for a week."
This is depressingly true, yet, as we sit on the piazza late in the
afternoon, there is a light indication of breaking away. The rain "holds
up," ;is country people say; a
glow of some faint, indescribable kind begins to light up the vapory
heaven and lurid river-stretch. When we come out from tea the scene has
become beautiful. Far down the river a primrose tint in the west shines
through the green foliage, and the clouds are rolling away from the
eastern heavens. Every thing is dripping with moisture; but, equipping
ourselves with waterproofs and overshoes, we go out on the bridge. It is
impossible to describe the fresh loveliness of the scene as we stand with
the turbulent, swollen river flowing underneath in long, swirling ripples,
and watch the light die out of that portion of the west which we see
through the river-gap. The clouds change their shapes and aspects
modestly— now watery gray, as they have been all day, now white as
snow-drifts against a dark-blue sky. Solemn and stately the great hills
enclose us, with their aspect of eternal, melanin holy calm, and from all
the defiles white mists are rising.
Something in the picture touches Sylvia. She turns from Ralph Lanier to
where Charley stands leaning over the wet railing and whistling softly;
laying her hand on his
" Ton told me first about the French Broad," she says, " but I did not
fancy it was half so beautiful this."
" As this! " repeats Charley. " Why, this is nothing. The grandeur of the
gorge does not begin until four or five miles below here."
"Well," she says, with a laugh, "it is pleasant to think that something
better is coming—but this is good enough. Charley, that looks like a very
pleasant road along the river-bank yonder. Can we not walk a littlie?"
"Certainly," answers Charley, with an alacrity he would not be likely to
display if any one else made the same suggestion. "You'll find it rather
damp, but if you have on overshoes—"
" Oh, yes, overshoes and a water-proof. Come ! I don't want to go back to
the house to play whist and be bullied by everybody round the table for
not leading trumps."
She takes his arm, and they start, but Mr. Lanier in his anxiety cannot
forbear entering a protest.
"You are surely not going to walk on the side of the river, Miss Sylvia,"
he says
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" You've no idea how wet it is—you will certainly take cold.—Kenyon, this
is very imprudent—"
" Very good of you to consider my health," says Charley. " I am afraid I
may take a sore-throat, or something of the kind; bin when a lady gives an
invitation, you know it is impossible to refuse."
"Aunt Markham will take my hand at whist, Mr. Lanier," says Sylvia's guy,
mischievous voice. Then they wilt away, and we soon see their figures
strolling along the winding road by the river-bank.
Eric laughs at the vexed expression which, even in the dim light, we see
on Mr. Lanier's face as he watches them.
" Give her line, Ralph," lie says, good-naturedly. "A fish like that is
not landed at once—if, indeed, you are lucky enough to land her at all."
" I sometimes think, by Jove, that I never shall," says Mr. Lanier, with
emphasis. " One minute she is as kind and gracious as could possibly be
desired; the next she thrusts a fellow off at arm's length. I don't
pretend
"They don't generally intend that you should understand them," says Eric,
quietly.
Alter this we return to the house and play another game of whist—Aunt
Markham Inking Sylvia's hand, and calling Mr. Lanier sharply to account
for all the blunders which he makes, and which owe their origin to a
distracted mind. Whist-players know what concentration of thought this
game demands, and poor Mr. Lanier's thoughts are following Sylvia up and
down the wet river-side.
She comes hi late, with wet boots and draggled skirts, but a pretty flush
on her cheeks and light in her eyes. "We have been watching the moon
rise," she hastens to assure Aunt Markham. " There is a bluff about a
quarter of a mile down the river, which is perfectly lovely.—Are my feet
wet ? Well, yes—slightly so, but I am going to bed, so it does not mutter.
Good-night."
"One moment, Miss Sylvia!" cries Mr. Lanier, springing after her; but she
flits away with a laugh and is gone.
The first sound I hear next morning is that of rain heavily falling, but
by breakfast-time a few faint gleams of sunshine have appeared, and after
breakfast we decide to order the carriages and make another effort to
reach the Warm Springs. Half a dozen
amateur weather-prophets assure us that it will be a clear day. "The mists
are rising, the clouds are breaking," they say. "By twelve o'clock you
will have as much sun as you want, and perhaps a little more."
Cheered by these assurances we start. Eric and I in the wagon lead the
way, the carriage and horsemen follow. But for the heaviness of the road
the day would be delightful—a perfect day for traveling. Light veils of
cloud obscure the sun, though now and then a burst of sunlight breaks
forth and lights up the world with splendor, Three or four miles below
Alexander's we enter on that part of the road which leads below the
cliffs. They rise over our heads hundreds of feet, these beautiful,
majestic heights, broken ledges and masses of rock, in every interstice of
which great pines grow, and thickets of rhododendron flourish. In the dark
shade, ferns, flowers, and mosses abound, together with trees of every
variety, while down the hill-sides and over the rocks countless streams
come leaping in foam and spray.
We make slow progress here. It is impossible not to pause and linger at
every step. The road, flecked with shadows, stretches before us, bounded
on one side by the tumultuous river, overshadowed on the other by these
inexpressibly picturesque escarpments. Sylvia descends from her lore, and,
looping up her habit, climbs the rocks with almost childlike delight—
followed by her two attendants, who do not probably en-joy the scrambling
so much. Yet a change has evidently come over Charley. Despite his
indolence he has a genuine love of Nature, and it begins to assert itself.
Lanier, on the contrary, would be plainly content to sit on his horse and
say, "Really, very beautiful!"
"How little idea most people have of the grandeur of this country!" says
Eric..-. "The pass of the Toasts is nothing this gorge of the French
Broad — yet com-pare tl>e renown of the one with the obscure-my of the
other."
" Yet the scenery of the French Broad is tame compared to some that ia to
be found in these mountains—and which is absolutely unknown," says
Charley.
"Tame!" repeats Sylvia. "Arc we always to remain below in the scale of
comparison ? Shall we never see any thing which has the distinction of
being superlative?"
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ADVENTURES IS MOUNTAIN' BY-WAYS.
"Yes, you will stand on the Black Mountain and you will see Hickory-Nut
Gap," Eric answers. " Those two things are superlative."
Since the day is wearing on, we cannot linger so long as we should like.
Though our road is bounded by the narrow walls of the gorge through which
the river forces its WHY, there is no monotony in the scenery. Every curve
of the winding stream gives us a picture of new beauty—a picture
essentially unlike any that we have seen before. As we advance, the
mountains on each aide rise higher, the stream grows wilder, the masses of
rock which strew its channel are larger, sometimes piled in fantastic
shapes with the winter surging around and boiling under them, or forming
islands covered with greenness.
Toward the middle of the day the sun Alpines out hotly—making our noonday
rest, while we eat our luncheon, very pleasant. It
At Mache!
is while we are engage i in this manner, scattered over the rocks by the
river-bank, under the-shade of the trees, that to our surprise the state,
which we expected to meet much later in the day, comes .driving past. Two
or three voices hail the driver :
"Hilltop!—from the Warm Springs already ?" Driver: " Haven't been to the
Springs- today—couldn't cross Laurel yesterday evening."
I it too high for fording ? "
Much too high."
" Do you think it is down by this time ? "
"Couldn't tell—maybe."
Then the lumbering vehicle rattles on, and we look at each other..
"By George! here's a promising slate of affairs!" says Mr. Lanier,
twisting the ends of his black mustache.
"I've had my doubts about Laurel from the first," says Charley, taking
another sandwich. "It's a dangerous-looking stream even at low water."
"O Eric," cries Aunt Markham, with perturbation on her countenance, "let
us go back to Alexander's."
" I'm opposed to turning back," says Rupert, who is balancing himself in a
precarious manner on a tree which lungs over the water. "If we can't rest
Laurel, we can camp out."
".Well said, Rupert!" cries Sylvia. "I have always desired two things
enemy—lo camp out all night, and to be lost in .the mountains. If we can
compass the first, I shall have hopes of the last."
"Sylvia, how can you talk so foolishly! " says Aunt Mark ham.—" Eric, what
do yon mean to do* " .
"To. go on, mother," answers Eric. "These mourning stream run down as fast
as they rise. We can't reach Laurel before late afternoon, and it will be
low enough to cross by that lime."
Two tidings which are very essential in a leader Eric possesses —coolness
and resolution. Many men under such circumstances would say to the party,
" What shall we do?" and endless discussion would be the result.
and even Aunt Markham. "You'll promise that if there is any danger yon
won't take us in !" she says; and, when he says, " I promise that most
positively," she is content. Our luncheon over, we start again. A few
miles brings us to Marshall, the seat of Madison County. A more
singularly-located village cannot well be imagined. It is situated
immediately on the river, in a valley not more than a quarter of a mile
wide, with,-sheer, steep hills rising abruptly behind, and the river in
front.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
"The streams in this part of the country cannot rise like ours," I say to
Eric, " or else Marshall would be submerged twice a year at least. Think
of the Yadkin, that rose last spring folly feet! "
" The French Broad never rises like that," he answers; " it runs off too
rapidly. A bridge has been swept away here, but I doubt if the river came
up to the town. We'll ask."
We do ask, and are told that it came up to the first row of houses—about
ten feet above its usual level—but rose DO farther. The bridge went like a
thread, and a pretty, cultivated island lying in the middle of the Stream
was entirely overflowed. We try to obtain some information about Laurel
here, but nobody knows any thing. As we drive out of the town, a
direly-threatening cloud is hanging over the mountains, and we hear
"sounds of thunder afar." We pause at the toll-gate, where a woman comes
out to receive the toll, superintended by a cadaverous-looking man,
evidently ill with fever, who is lying on a mattress in an upper piazza.
Of him, auto, we solicit information of Laurel.
" I haven't seen nobody from there to-duty," he responds, " but the stage
came back last night without crossing. If it hasn't rained anymore on the
head-waters, the river may be down by this time. There's an old man living
there that'll show you the ford. Travelin' fur?"
" Down to the Springs," answers Eric, touching the horses ; and on we go.
Just below Marshall the river makes a magnificent" curve, sweeping with a
bold and beautiful stretch around the base of the wooded cliffs that rise
abruptly from its verge, and from this point the grandeur of the gorge is
unmatched, and absolutely beyond description. The scenes grow wilder with
every mile. Our ears are filled with the roar of the tumultuous river that
lashes itself 10 fury among the rocks of every conceivable form that seem
trying to bar its way. Much of the road is made in the bed of the stream,
and, as we wind around the cliffs that jut out here and there, it is
always with the de-
with some other vehicle. In such a case it is impossible to see what
either pity would or could do. We are spared any thing of the kind,
however, and so we go on, feeling as if
we were leaving civilization altogether behind, and plunging deeper and
deeper into the heart of primeval Nature. The fact that we meet no
travelers strikes us.
"I am afraid Laurel is up," Eric says, doubtfully, " else we should have
met somebody from beyond there."
One feature of the day's travel also impresses us—the number of people who
are ' engaged in fishing. At least once in the course of every half mile
we pass a group of men and boys employed in this manner. Our
curiosity is roused at last. Why should the whole population of the French
Broad be devoting themselves to fishing on this special j day ? We ask two
or three, but receive little satisfaction. Unless approached with some
tact, your mountaineer is apt to prove sulky
The road is so rough and so muddy that it is impossible to travel fast,
and the afternoon is more than half gone before we hear -that we are nine
miles from Laurel, of the state of which we have not yet received any
definite information.
" Eric," says Charley, riding up to the side of the phaeton which Eric is
driving, "I have grave doubts about that river ahead
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
of us. If we can't cross it, where do you
propose to spend the night? There is not a tolerable place between the
Springs and Alex-un tier's."
" We can camp out," says Sylvia, riding up on the other side.—" Eric, pray
let us do that.—Aunt Markham, wouldn't you rather sleep in the carriage
than in such houses as we have passed? "
"I think I should," says Aunt Markham, " but I would rather cross Laurel
lean do earlier."
Charley shakes his head as he falls back. He is plainly not sanguine about
Laurel. The case is desperate now, however ; it is too far
showers have passed over us, but we are inured to wettings by this time,
and do not mind them; massed clouds are before and
we drive for three miles farther, rugged cliffs hanging over us, a rocky
road below, the rushing river by our side. Every thing around is so wild
that unconsciously our spirits begin to fail a little. What if Laurel
should be up! where and how shall we spend the night ?
" I think there is a storm coming over, Eric," says Aunt Markham,
presently, from the back of the phaeton, "Haii we not better put up the
top? "
Eric turns, partly to look at the clouds, partly to assist in pulling up
the top. In doing so, he fails to avoid one of the rocks of which the road
is full. Crash against it goes the phaeton-wheel, there is a loud snap
under our feet, and, as Erie pulls up the horses, he says:
" By George, there goes a spring! "
The equestrians are lingering in the rear, but, seeing our abrupt halt,
Charley comes
" Ride on and stop those fellows in front," says Ed, as he comes abreast
of us, " und tell John to brings a rope here.—I am sorry to say you must
all get out of the carriage. —Rupert, come and unhorses the horses."
We alight, and Aunt Markham seats herself on a rock with an expression of
countenance that might move a statue to amusement. Disgust, despair,
consternation, unutterable resignation to any thing that may occur—all
this is so plainly visible on her fade that I go to the river-bank—about
two poet distant—to enjoy a private laugh.
Meanwhile, Sylvia and her escort appeal on the scene.
" Spring broken ? " says Mr. Lanier, looking almost its much concerned as
Aunt Mark' ham. "What luck!"
" I've been 'feard of that spring all along, Miss Eric," says John, coming
up with a coil of rope over his shoulder.
" Well, the worst has come," says Eric, " so now let us go to work and
remedy it.— Charley, lend a hand here."
While Rupert holds the horses—which have been taken out of the carriage —
and Eric, Charley, and John, bandage the broken spring, Mr. Lanier sits on
his horse and contemplatively pulls his mustache. He is evidently of the
opinion that misfortune has marked us for its own, and that traveling on
the French Broad has its disadvantages.
Suddenly Aunt Markham extends her hand like a tragedy-quiet, and points up
the river.
" The rain is coming," she says. "Will somebody bring me a water-proof ?"
goes in search of this garment—not an instant too soon. We have scarcely
time to envelop ourselves before the rain is upon us. There comes a blaze
of lightning} a volleying peal of thunder, then the clouds empty
themselves in a white, blinding sheet that almost takes away our breath,
and promises to soak us to the skin.
" 0 Alice, isn't this dreadful ? " says Sylvia, whose taste for adventure
begins to be a little damped. As for Aunt Markham, she thinks that
forbearance has ceased to be a virtue, and she cries that she must and
will get into the carriage.
" I cannot sit here in a pool of water !" she says. "Eric, I shall take my
death of cold—I am sure of it."
" We'll be reply for you in a minute, mother," says Eric, working like a
Train the midst of all this, a horseman unexpectedly appears, riding
around a cliff just ahead of us, where the river makes a bend. He
pauses—naturally surprised at the scene
find parties of our description on the French Broad in a pouring rain. We
hail him with our usual question:
" Can you tell us how far we are from Laurel ?"
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" Four miles," he answers, staring harder. " Broken a spring? "
" Yes. Is Laurel up ? "
"Pretty high. You are not thinking about crossing it ? "
"We are thinking exactly that," says Eric, turning round, " if the stream
isn't too high. Have you crossed it ?''
"No—it's beyond crossing, except in a
fast—oil, don't you think he might cross it if we went on ? "
The new-comer—who in face and manner is more decided and intelligent than
any other native of the region we have met—glances at her, and then points
to the tossing, turbulent current of the French Broad.
" You could just as soon drive to that rock yonder," he says, indicating a
black,
canoe. "I'm just from there, though. I live on Laurel, five miles from the
mouth. The river has been past fording for five days. It is running eight
or ten feet deep now, and will swim a horse."
"By Jove!" says Mr. Lanier. Nobody else utters a word. We are all stunned,
and we gaze at the messenger of evil tidings with a mixture of indignation
and appeal.
" It can't be! " cries Sylvia, entreatingly. " They say mountain-streams
run down very
jagged point two-thirds of the distance across the river. " Laurel is
fully that wide, and fully that swift."
We look at each other in dismay. What is to be said, what is to be done?
Torrents of rain are pouring on us, lightning is flashing around, and
thunder bellowing above. We are in the wildest part of the wild
river-gorge, with Laurel "deep enough to swim a horse" in front, and
Alexander's eighteen miles behind!
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
CHAPTER VI.
" A chieftain, to the Highlands bound.
Cries,' Boatman, do not tarry 1 And I'll give thee a silver pound, To row
us o'er the ferry.' "
"ERIC," cries Aunt Markham, with strong symptoms of hysterics, "come here
this instant and tell me if we are all to be drowned!"
Eric is undutiful enough to disregard this appeal. He walks instead up to
the man who has warned us, and who, with supreme indifference to the rain,
is sitting on his horse watering our proceedings with great interest.
" If you are sure there is no possibility of our crossing Laurel," he
says, " can you tell me any house within a moderate distance where we can
spend the night ? "
" Eric! " cries Aunt Markham again.
The prospect of spending the night in any one of the houses which are
found commonly through the country is nearly as appalling as the idea of
being drowned.
But Eric knows what is best for us, and goes on inflexibly:
" I must find some shelter for these ladies," he says. " Where is the
nearest house? "
" About a mile back," the other answers. "You can get accommodation there,
I expect. It's the house of a friend of mine. There's no other that I know
of nearer than five or six miles."
"John, turn the carriage as soon as you put in the horses," says our
commanding officer.— "Charley, ride forward and see that Harrison does the
same with the wagon."
So it is settled. John turns the carriage
—a dangerous matter this on the narrow road
—then we crowd in and shield ourselves as well as we can from the driving
rain that cornea in our faces in sheets of spray. So we start back. But
our progress is slow. Streams that were rivulets an hour before are
leaping torrents now, with currents so strong and swift that it is as much
as our horses can do to pull us through. Once the danger seems so imminent
that we may be swept into the river that Aunt Markham utters a scream,
Sylvia only clasps my hand tightly, and, when we reach the bank in safety,
she says, "What must Laurel be!"
All our fancy for adventurous camping-out is dissipated by the blinding,
soaking. We feel that any shelter will be welcome, no matter how rough it
may be. And the shelter to which we presently come is very rough. Yet the
house has plainly seen better days. It is a two-story frame-building
—once, no doubt, a well-kept farm-house— situated a little back from the
road. Two or three men are seated in the piazza. One comes forward, and,
when Eric says, "Can you take us in for the night ? " answers, with a
doubtful glance at our number, " Well, I reckin so."
We do not wait for the slow assent to spring out and take refuge in the
piazza. Then we utter a long sigh of relief. After all, it is pleasant to
have a roof over one's head 1 Our host leads us into a large, barn-like
room, with several smaller ones opening from it. " I'll kindle some fire
to a minute for you to dry yourselves," he says.
We certainly stand in need of drying. Mermaids could scarcely be more wet.
Wherever we stand or sit, a pool of water soon settles. We take off our
water-proofs and shawls, and stretch them on chairs, laughing the while at
our plight. Aunt Markham plainly thinks this mirth very ill-timed. She
looks round with a shudder as she sits, majestic and dripping, in the
middle of the room — but she says nothing. Words are too weak to express
her feelings.
Presently a fire is roaring up the great chimney, and, by the time the
gentlemen come to inquire how we have fared, we are restored to our normal
condition of dryness and warmth. Nevertheless, flasks are produced, and
potations insisted upon, " It is the only way to keep from taking cold,"
says Eric, imperatively. '
"Your wishes are gratified, Miss Sylvia," says Ralph Lanier, with rather
an air of reproach. " You were desiring adventures— here they are."
" Do you consider me the Jonah who has brought all this ill-luck f " she
asks, laughing. " In that case I ought to be thrown overboard—ought I not
? The river is convenient for any thing of that kind."
The violence of the rain abates before very long, and we go out on the
piazza to look around. The prospect is cheerless in the extreme. The house
has a dispirited air of decay, and rose-trees have grown to a tangled
thicket in front. At the end of the piazza two young men are talking to
our host Charley says that they are from South Cam
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
"They came from the Springs to-day," he adds, " and Crosse Laurel in a
canoe. We met them, if you remember, just before our break-down."
As the rain abates, our spirits sink. Let it abate ever so much, we have
still the certainty of an aimless afternoon and comfortless night before
us. No hope of crossing Laurel before the next day, no possible chance of
returning to Alexander's. Suddenly, however, a cry is raised that somewhat
cheers us : "The stage is coming ! "
" By Jove! " says Mr. Laurie, " I felt sure that fellow was deceiving us
about Laurel."
"That fellow" has also arrived by this time, and, in a very damp
condition, is seated near. It is a chance whether or not he hears this
grateful speech. Fortunately, the attention of every one is fastened on
the stage, which comes into sight— empty ! We salute the driver with a
cry.
" Are you going over Laurel ? "
Driver. "Mean to try." Then he nods to
" How are you, George ? "
George shakes his head.
" You can't cross," he says.
" I'll take the mail to the banks any way," responds the other, driving
on.
"If you find that you
Sylvia
manner. What a place this is for ladies to spend the night!"
" Don't trouble yourself about us," replies Sylvia, nonchalantly. " We do
not mind a little hardship; but I am afraid you have made a grave mistake.
Had you not better turn round even yet and go to the White Sulphur and
Saratoga? "
The young man colors.
" Of course it does not matter to me—at least not very much."
" Has anybody brought a pack of cards along? " asks Charley, sauntering
up. " Let us have a game of euchre."
"Up
back for us,' via, eagerly.
" He's not likely to cross," say the men at the other end of the piazza.
Mr. Lanier shrugs his shoulders impenitently. " There's no relying on a
word these people say," he remarks. " But the bridge should have been
rebuilt long ago. It is info mom a for travelers to be delayed in this
In the midst of this, and just a? Sylvia is
another cry: " Here comes a man who has crossed Laurel!"
Up we spring, and rush to the edge of the
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
piazza A man driving two horses in a jersey wagon is stopped by a storm of
tumultuous questions.
" Yes, I'm from the other side of Laurel," he replies.
" Forded the river ? " asks the incredulous chorus.
" No—ferried it in a canoe. I've been water-bound on the other side three
days, and I couldn't stand it any longer, so I took my wagon-body off the
wheels, slipped it on the canoe, and swam the horses over."
" Eureka t " cried Eric, striking one hand on the other; " that is an idea
for us! What has been done can be done again. If Laurel is still up
to-morrow, I'll take the carriages over in that way."
"You'll run a great risk if you do," says Mr. Lanier, who evidently does
not know what reckless thing may be proposed or executed next.
" A fig for the risk!" says Charley. " I'd quite as soon cross that way as
another."
"And I would rather cross that way!" cries Sylvia. " What fun it will be!"
Mr. Lanier looks grave. Crossing swollen streams in a canoe is not his
idea of fun.
" Let us hope the stream may be down by to-morrow," he says.
We return to our game of euchre, but I cannot forget the width and general
appearance of the wagon who was said to have been brought over on a canoe.
"Eric," I say, "these people must be talking about a boat—a constructed
boat. They can't possibly mean a dug-out.'
"Our friend here will tell us," says Eric.
Then he turns to our first acquaintance— the man who lives five miles from
the mouth of Laurel.
" Is that craft of which you are all talking a dug-out ? " he asks.
" Yes, it's H d u <r-out—hollowed from the trunk of a tree," is the reply.
" The tree must surely have grown in California," says Sylvia.
"No, madam," is the answer. "I can find plenty of chestnuts ten feet in
diameter on the Walnut Mountains just below here, and I'm almost sure I
could find walnuts of the same size."
" There was a dug-out on the river here," says our host, chiming in, "
that I saw one day hold five men and a mule—and could a' held more."
" There is no doubt of one thin«," says Eric—" this is one of the most
splendidly, timbered countries on the face of the globe."
" You don't know what it is until you go out on the mountains," says Mr.
George. " There's hardly a known tree that doesn't grow here — and grow to
the finest size. You'd not believe me if I were to tell you of what height
and diameter I have seen the white pine."
" Yes, we would," says Charley. " We are prepared to be enlightened, and
ready to believe any thing."
A few more tree stories are told, and then we ask the cause of the fishing
mania which has seized all the population of the French Broad.
" Those were not more than the pickets and outposts that you saw," says
our in-formant. "The main body of the fishing army is below here. I passed
at least twenty in four miles to-day. Some of the fellows sat up fishing
all night, and I know three men who only caught two fish among 'em— add
those were cats."
"What's the idea?"
'* Oh, well, it's too wet to do any thing else, and they think the fish
will bite better because the river's muddy."
By the aid of conversation and cards the afternoon and evening drag
through. One shower succeeds another in the most rapid and disheartening
succession, so that it is impossible to leave the house even for a short
walk, and no one is sanguine enough to speak of " clearing off."
" We might as well go back to Asheville,1* says Aunt Markham, who regards
our prospects in the darkest manner,
" Not without an effort to do otherwise," says Eric. " I don't choose to
be baffled by Fate and the Laurel."
The day has been fatiguing, and we all retire early. Of the lodging and
fare which we find at this wayside house it is best to say no more than
that the people gave us their best, and seemed honestly anxious to do all
in their power to please us.
About nine o'clock the stage passes back and reports Laurel still rising.
We are, therefore, cheered when, on waking the next morning, we hear the
rain coming down "in bucketfuls," as Sylvia despondently remarks.
" We shall have to stay here all day," she says. " I feel sure of it. We
cannot
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
even go back to Alexander's, for the creeks are up between here and there.
Oh, dear! Were ever people out for a pleasure-trip more badly treated by
the weather?"
When we leave our room, Charley is the first person to meet us, with the
pleasant sunshine of his face undimmed by the gloomy outlook. Surely an
equable temperament is one of the greatest blessings in the world—
especially in a traveling-companion.
"' Not for gold or precious atones would I leave my mountain home,'"
he sings, gaily. "I hope you are in better spirits than Lanier is this
morning, Sylvia, If matters go on at the present rate, I am afraid he will
commit suicide or go melancholy mad. It is a pity to see a man have so
little philosophy. Can't you cheer him a little?"
"I haven't the least disposition to try," says Sylvia. " Do any of us like
the delay ? —is it anybody's fault ? I am disgusted with Mr. Lamer, and I
wish he had gone to a watering-place where he might dance the German to
his heart's content, instead of joining our party."
" Who is accountable for his joining it" says Charley. But I do not think
he is ill-pleased by the young lady's petulance.
We go out on the piazza. The sky is a leaden curtain, the rain is pouring
in torrents, the road is black mud and water, the river is a turbid flood.
There is a sheer wall of cliff and forest opposite, along the base of
which the impetuous current sweeps.
"What are you going to do, Eric?" we ask, as that gentleman comes up.
" Nothing, lit. present," he answers. " What can a man do in the face of
such a downpour as this? By nine o'clock there will, probably, be some
signs of clearing. Then I will go to Laurel and see what the chances are
for our getting across."
By nine o'clock there are some signs of clearing. A few faint gleams of
sunshine appear, and the mists begin to rise from the mountains. Horses
are brought out, and the gentlemen, with the exception of Mr. Laurie,
start for the banks of Laurel, which is said to be all the more
dangerous—to have all the more force in its current—because it is higher
than the French Broad, into which it empties.
The morning passes in very dull fashion. Aunt Markham settles herself to a
novel.
Sylvia and I go out and stroll—wade, per haps, would give a more correct
idea of the rotted—along the river-bank, attended by Mr. Laurie. I soon
grow tired of playing the part of "third wheel to the cart," as the
Germans say, and return to the house, leaving the others established in a
cool, damp nook under some large trees that sweep the river with their
bending boughs. An hour or two pass. No sign of the return of the horsemen
; Aunt Markham grows uneasy, and suggests that they may have been drowned.
Sylvia does not stir from her seat by the river; Mr. Lanier is talking
earnestly — so earnestly that I feet a malicious inclination to go and
break up the tête-à-tête. I have taken an unaccountable dislike to this
young gentleman, despite his good looks and his well-filled purse. "
Wife's me for Prince Charley," I think—and then I see Prince Charley
coming at a canter along the road.
"Good news! " he says, as he draws up his horse. " Laurel is falling, and
will be low enough by the afternoon for you to be ferried 'over in a
canoe. Eric has made all the arrangements. I've seen the boat, and there
is not the least danger."
"Are you sure of that?" asks Aunt Markham, tremulously. She is divided
between her dislike to staying where she is and her terror of crossing in
a canoe. " I never was in a dug-out," she says, " but I've seen them
often. They rock horribly, and will upset at a touch,"
. "Not this one," says Charley. "Though a dug-out, it is two feet and a
half wide."
The sun by this time is shining brilliantly, and with great heat. We take
dinner; then the carriages are brought out, and the almost endless
business of stowing away our luggage begins. Besides the trunks there are
satchels and baskets, boxes of grasses, books of ferns, and an unlimited
number of wraps. Aunt Markham declines to allow the last to be strapped
together. " It is useless," she says. "We shall need them before we have
gone a mile."
Despite this foreboding prophecy, the afternoon remains clear, and we see
the wild beauty of the gorge for the first time to advantage. The air is
like crystal, and a glory of sunlight streams on the river with its masses
of rock, and the mountains that overshadow it. In the five miles that lie
between our place of lodging and the banks of Laurel
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
the picturesque loveliness changes and deepens constantly. The river grows
more and more tumultuous, and its waves wear caps of foam like the
breakage of the ocean, as they plunge in stormy rapids over its hidden
rocks. Rugged cliffs hang over us, fringed with ferns and mosses ;
verdure-clad mountains rise from the other bank; leaping cascades tumble
down the rocky glens and dash across our way—there are pictures on every
side that would repay the lover of Na-
then it takes half of the channel, and the clear and the turbid current
flow onward side hay side.
The bridge which was swept away crossed the stream near its mouth ; but
the ford is a little higher, and to this we drive. There is a cabin on the
other side, from which, in answer to several hallows, the ferryman issues.
The canoe in which we are to make the passage is moored on the other side,
and at this Aunt Markham gazes doubtfully.
" John," she says to her coachman, whom she considers less likely to run
dangerous risks than Eric, in whose vocabulary fear is a word unknown—
"John, do you think that boat is safe? I suppose we can cross in it, but
how about the carriages and the horses ? Don't you think it might be
better for you to remain on this side until the river
tare or the arrest for any hardship or fatigue taut could possibly be
encountered in reaching thallium of almost unknown beauty.
Presently we see a broad, green stream flowing in front of us, and the
horses are (raven up on the banks of Laurel. Notwithstanding the late
heavy rains, there is no tinge of mud in the clear water of this
mountain-river, an J we appreciate the strength of its current when we see
that it sweeps directly across the French Broad before the latter river
can change its course. Even 4
This is a proposal which does not meet with John's approval. No one has a
better appreciation of good lodging and good fare than the negro of the
old regime. "There ain't no danger at all of we takes the carriages off
the wheels," he replies. "We can hold 'em steady on the boat, and the
horses can swim easy enough."
"Oh, it will all be easy," says Erie, coming to the carriage-door. " There
is no reason to be nervous, mother. I am sorry that it is necessary you
should alight.—Every thing must be taken out of here, John—luggage,
cushions, every thing."
" This is—dreadful!" says Aunt Markham, with a gasp, after she has been
deposited on the road-side in the blazing heat of the sun, with satchels,
novels, and baskets, strewed around in wild confusion.
" I call it jolly," says Rupert, who is prancing about on Cecil, and
getting as much as possible in everybody's way.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" Don't ride that horse over me, Rupert,"
cries Aunt Markham, retreating in terror, and
making convulsive efforts to scramble up the steep hill behind her.
"I must say that I consider this a very great risk," observed Mr. Lanier,
climbing to where I have perched on the hill-side, under the shade of a
large walnut-tree. "I shall pot be surprised if Markham loves one or both
of boa carriages, and gets some of the hordes drowned. In my opinion the
river is still too high and too swirl's to be crossed with safety in any
way."
"Suppose you stay on this side, then ? " I cannot resist saying. " Yonder
conies the ferryman. H? seems to have no difficulty about bringing the
boat over."
" What a pleasant way of crossing!" says Sylvia's voice below. She Charley
on the bank of the stream, while
Eric, who lends a hand to every thing, is assisting Harrison to take off
the trunks, and John and Rupert are taking out the horses. "What shall go
over first?—a cargo of trunks, or a cargo of people?" says she, turning
round as the boat touches the shore.
" You and I will go," says Charley. " Let us be the first to make the
passage.
"The whole party may as well go," says Eric. "The boat is large enough."
" We don't want the whole party," says Sylvia. " We mean to cross by
ourselves, with a trunk or two for ballast.—Harrison, bring mine here.—If
I go to the bottom, let me at least have the satisfaction of knowing that
I take my wardrobe along with me."
Two or three trunks are placed in the boat, Sylvia and Charley embark, Mr.
Lanier the while looking on anxiously, and uttering one or two unheeded
remonstrance; then the ferryman, who has been leaning on his pole,
listening to every thing, with a broad grin on his dusky face, pushes off.
The boat rocks on the swift current, but he manages it with great skill,
and, when they are half-way across, Sylvia's gay tones—she has taken off
her gloves, and is dabbling with both hands in the clear-tinted
water—float back to us.
"0 Charley, shall you ever forget the Laurel ? Isn't this delicious ! "
" What strange ideas of enjoyment some people have! " says Mr. Lanier, who
is seated on the roots of a tree, fanning himself. " I don't think I
shall ever forget the Laurel;
Crossing the Laurel.
I but, as for seeing any thing delicious in such a business—"
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
The rest of the trunks, Aunt Markham
lid myself, accompanied by this gentleman, cross next. Erie and Rupert
remain behind lo superintend the sending over of the carriages. We are
lauded in safety, despite one or two disarms on Aunt Markham's part, " O—h
! " she says, in prolonged gasp, every time that the boat gives a
lurch—and dug-outs are by no means the steadiest crafts in the world. Mr.
Lanier says nothing. He only sits on a trunk and looks grave. He is not
afraid—as he has taken some trouble to explain—but he disapproves of
running reek-leas risks, and he objects to getting his feet wet in a muddy
canoe.
Sylvia and Charley welcome us gaily. There is a prettily-shaded spring,
not more than five steps from the river, where they have seated
themselves, and opened the lunch-basket—filled at Alexander's, and not
emptied yet. There is a bottle of claret which Charley is opening with his
knife. "We drink to the passage of the Laurel!" he says; "may our future
adventures be as pleasant!"
One or two of the party object to this sentiment—but they drink the
claret. The children of the ferryman come in detachments to stare at us
and the proceedings on the other bank. A hungry-looking, soft-eyed hound
draws ne;ir and is fed generously by Sylvia. We talk and laugh and watch
the carnages being brought over in pieces—first the bodies, then the
wheels—;ind applaud the gallant horses that come out dripping and shining
from their bath. Even Mr. Lanier begins to admit that there is some
pleasure in all this. Walnut Mountain rises superbly behind us; the clear
waters of Laurel sweep swiftly in front; the wild, deep gorge down which
the latter flows is in shadow; while the afternoon sunlight falls broadly
on the rushing French Broad.
"If life were all like this," says Sylvia, leaning back against a rock,
her hat off, her pretty hair in a curly tangle, " what a charming thing it
would be ! "
"You seemed to think it particularly charming last night," says Rupert,
with an explosion of boyish laughter. He has come lo refresh himself after
his arduous exertions
—his hat is on the back of his head, his fiche aflame with color. " Did
you see what trouble we had to get Brimmer into the water ? " he
asks. " He knew as well as I did that he
would have to swim, and he didn't fancy the idea."
The passage of the Laurel, with the attendant trouble of putting the
carriages together again, and reharnessing the horses, occupies two hours.
It was three o'clock when we paused on its farther bank; it is five when
Eric at lust says, "All ready," and we prepare to start for the Springs.
" Good-by, Wash," says Charley, addressing the ferryman, who, after eleven
trips across the river, seems disposed to think that rest from labor is
sweet. " May you live a thousand years, and may your shadow ever grow
less! You have our blessing, nod, if you should ever be called upon to do
a thing of this kind again, you'll understand the proper method."
" Yes, ash — thanky, sah," responds Wash, with a grin.
The drive to the Springs in the lovely afternoon is a marvel of delight.
It is a peculiarity of this road that one is never able to determine with
any degree of certainty what part of it is most beautiful. Yet, if it were
necessary to decide, the palm might be awarded to that portion which lies
beyond the waters of Laurel. There are, if possible, more variety, more
wildness, more blended majesty and loveliness in these four miles than are
to be found on any other part of the river. The Walnut Mountains— a range
of splendid heights, rising to a ridge that stands for miles, level as a
prairie, against the sky — enclose the gorge, while the cliff-like rocks
that line the road assume some of their moat imposing and picturesque
forms. It is here, also, that the famous islands of the French Broad— in
which Cherokee traditions placed a siren who lured hunters to destruction
by the sweetness of her voice — appear like spots of fairy verdure on the
rushing current. Rocks, islets, drooping foliage, glancing water, golden
sunshine streaming on all the grand vistas and curves of beauty — how can
one write of these things in terms that shall not seem exaggerated to
those who have never looked on them ?
Presently we reach Deep Water — where the river, narrowed between two
walls of shelving rock, is said to be ninety feet deep, and flows without
a sound, almost without apparent motion. Released from this con finement,
it whirls more madly than ever over a magnificent ledge of broken rock,
and
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
parts around Mountain Island. When it unites again, It is more quiet. We
follow one more sweeping bend, and the lovely valley of the Warm Springs
'a before us.
CHAPTER VI.
" The velvet grass seems carpet meet For the light fairies' lively feet;
Ton tufted knoll with daisies strewn, Might make proud Oberon a throne;
While hidden in the thicket nigh Puck should brood o'er his frolic sly ;
And where profuse the wood-vetch clings Round ash and elm in verdant
rings, Its pale and azure penciled flower Should canopy Titania's bower."
IT is not possible to imagine a stronger sense of contrast than that of
which we are conscious on coming to this gay watering-place out of the
wild gorge through which we have passed, and after the rough life of which
we have had a glimpse. We feel as if we had entered by magic into another
world. Here is a large hotel, wilt all the appliances of civilization;
well-dressed people in every direction on the piazzas and lawns; stir,
movement, and all that air of do-nothing gayety which pervades such
places.
\o summer resort in the country possesses greater advantages than the Warm
Springs —if these advantages were only made the most of. Even now, despite
the constant annoyance which bad management causes, the price is very
popular, especially among the people of Tennessee and the Gulf States, who
go there in numbers. Nature has certainly done every thing for it. The
great hills recede, forming a beautiful basin. There is a green,
well-shaded lawn in front of the hotel, at the foot of which the French
Broad sweeps, chanting its everlasting refrain, while on the other side
hold cliffs and mountains rice. In the rear of the hotel flows Spring
Creek, one nf the brightest and loveliest of mountain-streams. It runs
down a picturesque gorge • in crystal rapids and falls, with the
laurel-clad cliffs towering so sheer and steep on each side that it is
only by springing from rock to rock in the bed of the stream that one is
able to explore its wild beauty. The warm springs are large pools that
bubble up near the river, and range in heat from 98" to 102" Fahr. They
are almost of miraculous nature for rheumatism and neuralgia, and one
sees helpless cripples who have the entire use of all their limbs in the
bath, when out of it they cannot move hand or foot. The
vacated by these waters, and many persons are wholly cured.
We cross the river in a ferry-boat—the bridge not having been yet
rebuilt—and in doing so are the objects of many stares from a party of
equestrians who are waiting on the other side. At a place of this kind
newcomers are always certain of being stared at —generally in a very
ill-bred manner—but OD this occasion there is more than ordinary excuse
for the starters. Evidently they are at a loss to imagine where we can
possibly have come from. They know that Laurel is "up," for the stage from
Asheville has not crossed since Monday, and this is Thursday. As we
approach the bank, we hear them exchanging wonders and conjectures.
" The waters must be down," Bays one.
" Of course the stage will come to-night,1' remarks another.
"We could assure them to the contrary, if we close," says Sylvia. " Our
boatman told us, you know, that the stage cannot possibly cross until
to-morrow—if then."
We drive- into the grounds and up to the door of the hotel with the nor of
people who feel that they have a right to mike a sensation.
Our appearance certainly excites a great deal of wonder and interest among
the lounging groups on the long piazza.
"From Asheville?" says the astonished clerk who opens the carriage-door. "
How in it possible you've crossed Laurel ? The stag* hasn't been here in a
week."
" People can generally accomplish what they want to do," says Eric. "The
stage-drivers are probably not so anxious to cross as we were. Here we
are, and we want good rooms immediately."
Thanks to this young gentleman's some-what arbitrary energy, the good
rooms—and they are excellent ones—are obtained. In this respect we are
more fortunate than many others. Let people show any capability of being
imposed upon, and hotel proprietors, are commonly the people to take
advantage of the fact.
" It is the most disagreeable feature of this place," says a gentleman a
few days later, " that you can obtain nothing without such a great amount
of unpleasant bullying."
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Not alone at the Warm Springs, however, does such short-sighted policy
prevail. Who Hi at has traveled has not suffered often in this manner, and
been wrought to indignation by the deception and imposition which the
keepers of many places of resort delight to practice, and injure
themselves more grievously than they know by practicing them ?
The rooms at the Warm Springs are admirably furnished, as far superior in
size, comfort, and upholstery, to those of the famous Virginia White
Sulphur as a first-class hotel is superior to an ordinary boarding-house.
And the table is as good as can reliably be desired. Sylvia, it is true,
casts a discontented glance over the bill-of-fare, and remarks that she
sees no mention of venison or pheasants—but Eric and Charley laugh at her.
"You'd like a bear-steak, also, wouldn't you?" the latter asks. "You must
go a little farther from cut-glass and damask before you find those
things, ma belle."
" Is there no game around here?" asked Mr. Lanier. " There ought to be."
" There is none for amateur hunters," answers Eric. "I was here for a week
last summer, and I soon saw how the thing was managed. A party of
gentlemen want a deer-hunt. Being ignorant of the country, and having no
dogs, they engage some of the mountaineers to ' drive * for them. These
fellows regard the deer as their monopoly, so they station the strangers
at certain stands, then they take the dogs and drive the deer in the
opposite direction, receive their pay in the evening, and have probably
also a deer which has been killed by one of their own number. After trying
this lively amusement for a few days, the would-be hunters are generally
disgusted, and firmly persuaded that there is no such thing as game in the
mountains."
"Is there no chance of a stranger ever killing a deer, then ? " asks Mr.
Lanier.
" Not unless he is one of a party who know the country and drive for
themselves. Even under those circumstances, however, game is scarce around
here—so scarce that it is not worth bunting. I knew that, so I left my gun
in Asheville. We shall not hove » good deer-hunt until we go to Beck
Forest —eh, Charley?"
"What is Buck Forest?" asks Sylvia. "The jolliest place in the mountains,
'
answers Charley. "Let that suffice until you go there."
It does not take us long 'to fall into the groove of watering-place
life—the most absolutely idle and aimless life in the world. Who does not
know the routine ? A vast
jazzes, a considerable amount of flirtation under lawn-trees, much smoking
on the part of the men, unlimited gossip on the part of the women, idle
hours in the bowling-alley, idle hours by the river pretending to fish,
idlest hours of all in the ballroom, criticizing faces and costumes, and
dancing to poor music. This order of existence pleases only two of our
party—Aunt Markham, who likes comfort and the baths, and Mr. Lanier, who
likes comfort and society. Sylvia tolerates it— being young and pretty,
and not adverse to admiration and battleship—but she wears a wistful look
when the horses are brought out for a ride or drive, and she confides to
mo that she is longing to be "up and away" to the wild fair regions that
lie yet unexplored before us. Eric and Charley make no secret of the fact
that they are bored, and the latter relapses into his usual state of
indolence —out of which our day or two of roughing temporarily roused him.
He finds it too much trouble to contend with Ralph Lanier and half a dozen
other old friends and new
he calmly relinquishes all of it, and devotes himself to a flirtation with
a pretty Memphis belle. I see them for hours together on the lawn—Charley
lying lazily on the shadow-dappled grass—I find, them by moonlight in
remote nooks of the piazzas, and see them atoll away for long walks
together. Sylvia says nothing, but her color heightens once or twice when
some one remarks Mr. Kenyon's "devotion " and she is more gracious than I
have accent her yet in her manner to Mr. Lanier.
This gentleman expresses himself very much pleased with die Springs and
the company.
" It would be much more sensible to spend the rest of the summer here,
instead of wandering about the mountains, encountering all manner of
hardships," he remarks one day, with the air of one who has fully made up
bus mind.
Eric utters a long, low whistle.
" If you have any intention of that kind
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mother," he says, " pray give me warning, and I'll be off to-morrow."
" To Buck Forest, I suppose," says Sylvia, glancing round.
" To Buck Forest or some other place where there is something to be done
besides lounging and smoking. To a man who flirts
—Charley there, for instance—a place like this may be tolerable; but to
me—"
"I beg to observe," says Charley, "that not even flirting can make it
tolerable. A man must do something, in self-defense— and flirting is one
of the easiest things to do
—but, as for finding pleasure in it, that's another matter."
"Don't try to make us believe, my good fellow, that you haven't found
pleasure in Miss Hollis's society," says Mr. Lanier, with the amiable
pleasantry of a victorious rival.
" It is not a matter of the least importance what you believe," answers
Charley, more brusquely than he usually speaks.
" Have you all forgotten," I interpose, hastily, " that we have not seen
Paint Rock yet? Let us go down there to-morrow."
"Let us go somewhere, by all means," says Sylvia. " This kind of
tread-mill existence begins to oppress me with a sense of weariness. I
want to ride, to cross a swollen stream, to climb some rocks—to do any
thing that has the thrill of adventure in it."
"There is not much adventure in climbing the Paint Rock," says Eric, "
but, if you are very anxious for a thrill, you may throw yourself off."
" Thanks for the permission—but did not somebody talk of crossing the
river and going to Lovers' Retreat this evening?"
There is nothing else to be done, so we all decide to go, and Charley
invites Miss Hollis to join our party. We cross the river, which is
beginning to lose its turbid tinge am) wear its emerald tint again—those
of us who are prudent on the ferry-boat, those who are imprudent in a
small craft that lies at the foot of the lawn. The latter crew consists of
Charley, Miss Hollis, and Rupert. Sylvia would like to be with them, but
she does not say so. I only know as much by the expression of her eves as
she watches the little boat shoot across the rapid current, while our slow
old ferryman has not pulled us half across the stream.
We hind on the other side at length, however, and stroll along the road
for some distance; then, turning, enter a narrow, shaded ravine. A musical
stream comes dashing over its rocks to meet us, up the bank of which we
take our course. There is 110 perceptible path, and the way is very rough,
but only Mr. Lanier complains of this.
"If these people had any enterprise," he says, " they would have all such
places as tins made accessible by good paths,"
" May a kind Fate keep such an idea from ever entering their heads!" says
Sylvia. " Can't you see how much more delightful this is ? Who cares for a
pleasure that costs no effort? We enjoy the cascade a great deal more—my
dress is caught, if you please —because we have trouble in reaching it."
" Do you think so ? " asks the young man, a little skeptically, as he
unfastens the dress from the bush on which it ia caught.
" 0 Mr. Kenyon, how shall I ever climb over this?" cries Miss Hollis,
hesitating at the foot of a large rock which it is necessary to mount.
" There's no difficulty at all," says Quays Charley."
pert, " if you just put your foot on that ledge and spring."
"There will be still less difficulty if you let me lift you," says
Charley, and he does lift
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her—a very substantial weight she is, too!— over the formidable obstacle.
Then he stands, ready to assist Sylvia in the same manner.
" I won't trouble you," she says, waving aside his offered hand. "I don't
consider this any thing at all in the way of climbing. Is that the cascade
yonder?"
Yes, it is the cascade—filling all the stillness with its fairy like
murmur. Over rocks, across fallen trees, and through the dense growth of
laurel that fringes all these watercourses, we make our way to the bank,
and go out on the rocks below the fall. The glen is only one of thousands
equally beautiful; but, as we stand, with the sheet of spray and foam
before us—a cascade that might be Undine herself—dense foliage on each
side, towering mountains above, and an atmosphere of green, shadowy
twilight—though we left the sun shining on the outside world, pervading
every thing, we are enchanted by its loveliness.
" It is like a miniature of Linville," says Eric. " Fancy these walls of
rock two thousand feet high, and this stream a river, and
"I wish I could go there," pays Sylvia. " N it quite impossible for us to
do so this
" Quite impossible—according to our present plan of travel. Don't you know
that it is an important part of sight-seeing to know what must be left
unseen ? "
" And this is Lovers' Retreat!" says Rupert, standing on a mossy, slippery
rock in the middle of the stream. " If I were a lover, it seems to me I
should select a retreat that was not so damp—or so snaky."
" What do you know about the sentiments of lovers ? " asks Charley. " Let
me tell you that, when one is a victim of the tender passion, one does not
consider snakes."
" Unless you see them," says Eric. " And Rupert is right: this looks as if
it might be one of their favorite retreats."
" I wish that the people who name places of thing kind would consider some
other class of the world's population besides lovers," says Sylvia.
"They are the most interesting class, are they not? " asks Mr. Lanier.
" On the contrary, I think they are the most uninteresting," she answers,
decidedly. " They are always selfish, absorbed in their own affairs—and
silly I"
" Dear me! what a list of charges," says Miss Hollis, with an affected
laugh.—" Take warning, gentlemen ! Miss Norwood will have little sympathy
for you if you fall in love."
" Then we can came to this retreat anile find some kindly rattlesnake to
put an end to our pain," says Charley.—" Here's a pretty flower. Will yon
have it? "
It is Miss Hollis to whom he offers the flower—a delicate wild azalea—and
she accepts it most graciously.
" I am so fond of flowers," she says, " I see a scarlet lobelia growing
yonder on the rocks by the cascade. I wish—oh, I do wish I could get that!
"
"But you can't!" says Rupert, looking at the indicated flower, which grows
in an inaccessible pl.-ice—on the face of the rock over which the cascade
tumbles; with a deep pool below.
" Here is a lobelia," says Mr. Lanier, who has been prying about among
bushes and stone?. " Will it not do as well ? "
" Oh, no," says Miss Hollis, shaking her head. " It is not that
lobelia.—Mr. Kenyon, can't you find any way to get it tore me? I should be
so delighted, and would wear it in my hair to-night."
" With such an inducement, I certainly make an effort to get it," says
Charley, gallantly —but he looks doubtfully at the position of the flower.
"Charley, don't be a fool!" says Eric, aside. " You can't possibly get it
without risking a plunge-bath, and it will be no joke to fall into that
pool. It must be six or eight feet deep."
" I feel as if I can never be satisfied if I don't have it," says Miss
Hollis, with the prettiest air of appeal.
"Then you shall have it," says Charley, springing up the bank.
"What on earth is he going to do?" I say.
What he is going to do is soon apparent. We hear him breaking through the
bushes by the side of the stream, and presently he appears on the top of
the fall. Lying down there, and holding by a laurel-shrub, he leans far
over the rock, and tries to gather the flower. It is a most precarious
position, and one which it is not pleasant to contemplate.
"Go back!" Eric, Rupert, and I cry in chorus. "You can't reach it — you'll
certainly fall over. Go back 1"
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" 0 Mr. Kenyon, pray don't!" cries Miss Hollis. She turns away, amid
covers her face with her hands. " I can't look !" she says, " I really
can't.—Please tell me if he calls."
Sylvia looks on steadily—her color bright, her lips set.
"I hope he will fall!" she says. "He deserves it for such folly."
says Mr. Lanier, philosophically.
Meanwhile Charley, deaf to our warnings, leans farther and farther over
the rock, reaches nearer and nearer the flower. At last his eland touches
it.
" By George, he's got it!" cries Rupert, triumphantly.
The words are scarcely uttered before the laurel-bush, on which lie has
bent his whole weight, breaks suddenly. He tries to recover his balance,
but the wet rock is too slippery. He catches desperately at another
shrub—fails to recall it—and goes, all in an instant, down into the pool!
The tremendous splash which he makes informs Miss Hollis—even before our
exclamations—what has occurred. She turns, and screams, of course—the
women who make mischief are the women who always scream over it. Nobody
heeds her. Eric and Rupert spring forward just as Charley'8 head rises
like a cork. A stroke or two brings him to water where he can wade. Then
the others assist him out and deposit him, dripping, on the rocks.
"I've a great mind to say 'Serves you _ right!'" remains Eric. "I hope you
are? satisfied."
"I believe I am," replies Charley, as soon as he can speak. "But I have
the flower. — You'll excuse my coming nf you in my present moist
condition, Mis,'. Hollis—but here it is."
He gives it to Rupert-who presents it to tho young lady.
"I can't tell you how much I shall prize it," she cries, "nor how much I.
am obliged to you for taking so much trouble to gratify me; but I would
give any thing if you had not fallen into the water. I was horribly
frightened, for I felt sure you would be drowned."
" Thanks," says Charley. "I might have been, perhaps, if I had struck my
head against the rock. Luckily I had presence of mind enough, so I escaped
a fractured skull."
"You'll not escape a cold, if you don't go at once to the hotel and change
your dress," I say, anxiously; " Miss Hollis will excuse you, since you
have suffered such a misadventure in her service." "I will go with him!"
cries Miss Hollis, eagerly. "Since he suffered in my service. 1 should be
very ungrateful to send him back alone."
"You are exceedingly kina," says Charley, " but I must deprive myself of
the
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are of your companionship, for once. You would not fancy the rate at which
I must walk—not to speak of my excessive dampness."
He rises as he speaks—a ludicrous figure, certainly—and moves away. In
reaching the bunk he passes Sylvia, who has not uttered a word since he
fell.
" I hope you were not very much startled," he says, pausing before her,
with a laugh.
" Not at all," she answers, looking at him with a cool, bright glance. "
You know my nerves are very good. I had 110 idea that you would be
drowned."
"And would not have cared very much if I said been, I dare say," he
remarks, carelessly. "Good nerves are capital things—in their way.—Well,
au revoir to you. all!—Miss Hollis, I shall have the pleasure of seeing
you in the ballroom tonight."
He disappears, shaking himself like a Newfoundland dog as he goes. When
the last glimpse of his figure has vanished, we look at each other, and,
yielding to an overmastering inclination, burst into a peal of laughter.
Miss Hollis appears in the ballroom with the lobelia in her hair that
night, but Charley's devotion is by no means so excessive as it his been.
Whether the plunge-bath has cooled his ardor, or whether he is alarmed by
the melting glances with which the young lady favors him, it is impossible
to say, but
I remark this when he comes down and sits by me.
" One can't keep a flirtation at high-water mark all the time," he says.
"There must be ebbs in all tides. To tell you the truth, Miss Hollis is
pretty, but insipid to an appalling degree."
" You must have made that discovery very recently."
" No, I have been aware of it for some time; but there are certain moods
in which one is more intolerant of insipidity than in others."
"I am afraid you bear malice for your plunge in the pool; but you had your
own folly to blame for that, as well as hers. By-the-by, do you think you
will suffer from it ? "
"Suffer!" he laughs. "Not in the least. How well Sylvia is looking
to-night! I suppose it is not worth while for me to ask her to dance—she
would certainly be 'engaged.'
Does she mean to marry that fellow Lauier ? "
" You had better ask her if you are curious on the subject. I have no
patience with men who try to obtain such information at second hand. A
faint heart never yet won a woman, and never deserved to win oiie !"
" Ah I" says Charley, calmly. " But sup-pose the woman is not to be won by
any kind of a heart, ? If I asked Sylvia such a question, she would tell
me that it was no al fair of mine."
" And that is all you know about it!" I think, as he saunters away. Puck's
words occur to me with great force—"Lord! what fools these mortals
be!"—and never such fools as in a matter that would seem to demand, above
all others, the exercise of the soundest sense.
The next day is appointed for the excursion to Paint Rock—distant seven
miles from the Springs, and consequently three miles over the Tennessee
border. Several additions to our party make it quite large. Aunt Markham
declines to go—seeing no attraction in rocks—but Eric fills both carriages
with sight-seers, and two or three equestrians swell our number. Sylvia,
as usual, is on horseback and looking her best—a best which quite
extinguishes Miss Hollis, who also rides, but whose steed is poor, and
whose horsemanship is very defective. Eric places his handsome Cecil at
her service, but she is afraid to mount him, hence Charley has the
satisfaction of riding him. A better horse than Cecil on which to " show
off" graceful horsemanship it would be difficult to find. He has not a
single vicious trait, but his spirit would turn the hair of a timid rider
gray with terror. He dances as if he had been reared in a circus, and, if
he is required to stand for a minute, will rear straight up on his
hind-legs and paw the air with his front-feet. He repeats this performance
several times before we start—varying it by waltzing on the same
hind-legs; all of which makes Charley (who is a capital rider) appear to
great advantage— to such advantage, indeed, that I wickedly suspect him of
inciting Cecil to some of the feats.
"0 Mr. Kenyon, is that the horse you wanted me to ride?" cries Miss
Hollis, pale with consternation. " Good Heavens ! what should I have
done!—He will break your neck—I am sure he will! Oh, pray don't ride him!"
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Charley only laughs at this appeal.
" Son, Cecil—steady, old boy ! " he says, patting Cecil's beautiful arched
neck. " He is gentle as a lamb," he adds. " You could ride him without
danger. He is only spirited and anxious to be off."
" I don't think I like so much spirit," says Miss Hollis, drawing her own
steed away and looking askance at Cecil's curveting bounds.
Meanwhile, Sylvia's pretty mare has caught the contagion, and is champing
her bit and pawing the ground.
" Neither of them likes to stand," says Charley, looking at her. " Suppose
we give them a run to keep them from pulling our arms off?"
Sylvia—not perceiving all that lies behind this suggestion — assents. The
horses only need permission to go. Side by side they grant, and, keeping
pace admirably, sweep down the carriage-drive along the front of the
hotel, and vanish around the corner of the building.
" I suppose they will be back in a minute,"
says Mr. Lanier, looking after them uneasily, " but it is very wrong of
Kenyon to encourage Miss Sylvia in riding so recklessly. There is always
danger of an accident."
" Sylvia can take care of herself," says Eric, gathering up the .reins—he
is to drive the phaeton—" and Charley is not likely to lead her into
danger.—Now, are all ready ? "
"All ready," answers a chorus of voices from the "jersey," which is filled
to-day with other freight than trunks.
"No, no," cries Miss Hollis; "Mr. Ken-yon has not come back."
"We must wait for Miss Sylvia," says Mr. Lanier.
" Not at all necessary," says Eric. " We can follow them."
" But they went a different road from ours."
"No —they took the right road. The turnpike on the other side of the river
is badly washed by the late veins, so we keep on this side for two or
throe miles, then cross at a lower ferry."
" They will wait for us, then ? " says Miss Hollis.
" [ presume so," answers Mr. Lanier.
These expectations are doomed to disappointment. We drive around the
hotel, leave the grounds, cross Spring Creek, and follow the stage-road
which leads along the river toward Wolf Creek, but the eyes which are
strained eagerly ahead discover no sign of the runaways.
CHAPTER VIII.
"At
the fled fast through van and shade,
The happy wind upon her playbill,
Blowing the ringlets from the braid ;
She looked so lovely as she swayed
The rain with dainty finger-tips,
A man had given all other bliss,
And all his worldly worth for this,
Upon her perfect lips."
To be mounted on a good horse, to have a pleasant companion who is
equally fortunate, and a good stretch of road before one —there is nothing
in the whole list of physical enjoyments so absolutely exhilarating and
delightful.
Those who are aware of this will not be surprised that Sylvia gives little
thought to the disconsolate escort and forsaken party whom she has left
behind, as Cecil and Bonnibelle press eagerly forward at a sweeping
canter. The morning is superlatively fresh and fair, the sunlight is
bright without oppressive heat,
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the river-breeze wafts the soft hair back from her face, the hedges and
way-side fences, overhung with clematis, flit past, the horses keep pace
admirably and enjoy the race as much as or more than their
riders—altogether, it is a bit of the most genuine pleasure, winch ends
when it is necessary to check their impetuous course at a steep descent
around one of the limestone cliffs which begin here.
"Oh, was not that heavenly?" says Sylvia, drawing a long breath. "Was
there ever before such a charming creature as Bonnibelle, and Cecil is
worth his weight in-gold I Now"—a sigh—"ought we not to wait for the
others ? "
" Wait for them ! " repeats Charley. " They must be at least two miles
behind. You've no idea at what a rate we have come.
can get down to the Paint Rock. I'll wager any thing we reach there an
hour and a half ahead of them."
This cool proposal surprises the young lady, and amuses her. There is a
large spice of mischief in her composition, and the idea Of Miss Hollis
and Mr. Lanier left in the lurch, and consigned to each other's tender
mercies, appeals irresistibly to her sense of the ludicrous. She looks at
Charley, and bursts into a gay laugh.
" Did you mean this deliberately ? " she asks. " There never was any thing
more shameful. Poor Miss Hollis! —poor Mr. Lanier ! How inconsolable they
must be!"
"Don't flatter yourself with any such idea," says Charley, coolly. " Miss
Hollis is at this moment making eyes at Lanier, and he is bearing his fate
with the philosophy which distinguishes him. We are the scapegraces so,
like scapegraces, let us be jolly together."
" You are the scapegrace, sir. Do you suppose I had a thought of riding to
Paint Rock with you when you proposed a short run to keep the horses from
pulling our arms off?"
" Not the least in the world ; but / had a thought of the kind. I knew
that, if we were once fairly skirted on a gallop, you would not have
resolution enough to stop until you were
" How well you know the weak points of my character I After all, it is
pleasant to be separated from the rest of the party, and
to do exactly what nine likes. You don't deserve to have mo say such a
thing, however."
"Why don't I deserve it?" asks Charley, looking very virtuous. " Haven't I
schemed
order to enjoy this ride with you ? "
She lifts her eyebrows.
" You schemed and plotted to escape the necessity of holding in Cecil by
the side of that animal Miss Hollis is on," she pays.
" Of course that was it," answers Charley, meekly. " How very astute you
are ! "
"I am astute enough to understand you, at least," says Sylvia. "Why, you
are as transparent as—as that spring yonder."
" Which, by-the-way, is worth stopping to look at," says Charley, checking
his horse. " Did you ever see as large a spring before ? It must be ten
feet across, and is only one of a succession. Look ! there are half a
dozen of them, and the stream rises her, and empties into the river after
a short course across the field, 13 almost a creek. Do you know the reason
? We entered the limestone region about a mile back, and these are
limestone springs."
"Are limestone springs always mammoth ? I wonder why ? But I don't admire
the limestone cliffs half so much as those of granite."
" I should not think that an artist would: the gray rock is much the most
picturesque. —Now, here is the ferry just before us where, according to
the programme arranged by Commander Erie, we are to cross. But, if you
would like to do something adventurous and altogether different from the
others, I have another plan lo propose."
Sylvia's eyes brighten immediately. Some-tiling adventurous and altogether
different from the others—what does she desire more ardently ?
"Propose your plan, by all means," she says, eagerly. "What is it?"
Charley, to his credit be it said, hesitates an instant. But it is only an
instant. The spirit of adventure is too strong in him for his powers of
resistance. Besides, he knows the mettle of Sylvia's courage, and that
where he chooses to go she will follow; 90 he answers:
" By going a mile lower we can ford the river. Should you like that? "
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should like it of all things. But I did not know that the French Broad
could be forded."
"There are two or three places on the river where it is practicable. This
is one of them. There is usually thought to be some risk about
it—therefore I am not sure that I ought to take you. Perhaps, after all,
we had better cross at the ferry."
"That is nonsense!" says Sylvia. " Of course you know that I am going to
ford the river. Nothing would induce we to cross in that humdrum
ferry-boat. Come!—here is a good stretch for a canter."
A mere suggestion seta the horses off. They sweep forward with spirit. The
road just here is remarkably good—level, and not very rocky. Hills dark
with foliage rise on one side, on the other fields intervene between the
turnpike and the river. The taints on the opposite bank of the t are
dappled with cloud-shadows that move slowly across their great shoulders
and wooded sides. Looking up the river there is a beautiful curve and a
vista of heights softened into blueness. Overhead the sky is flecked with
fleecy white clouds.
"What a thing it is to be alive—and on horseback—such a day as this!" says
Sylvia, as they ride "through sun and shade" without drawing rein.
" What a thing it is to have left Lanier and Miss Hollis behind ! " says
Charley.
Presently they reach the ford, which is their point of destination. As
they pause, Charley springs down from his horse and looks at the road,
which, overarched with shade, leads into the water. Then he glances up at
his companion with rather a grave expression on his face.
" I see no trace of anybody having passed here recently," he says. "
Sylvia, I don't fancy the idea of taking you in."
" Very likely nobody has forded to day or yesterday," says Sylvia,
composedly. " Have you ever crossed here ? "
" Several times—two or three years ago."
"Was it deep fording?"
"As well as I remember, it was rather Jeep fording—too deep for you, I am
afraid. We must go back to the humdrum ferry."
But Sylvia stands her ground, and looks undauntedly at the bread river,
with its swift, turbulent current.
" I have no desire to be drowned," she
says ; " and if you think there is real danger, I will go back. But if you
only hesitate on my account—and because you fancy, per-haps, that I shall
be frightened by a little deep fording—I insist upon going forward."
"I can't imagine that there is any real danger, but still— "Then we will
go. Forward ! "
She waves her lain with an imperious air that her companion knows well.
The idea of turning back is as disagreeable to him as to herself. He
springs on Cecil.
"Follow me, then," he says, and rides into the river.
Sylvia does not hesitate a moment. She gathers up her habit and follows.
Bonnibelle, however—remembering her late experience at Laurel—does not
like the look of things. She pauses, snorts, would fain draw back, but a
sharp cut of the whip urges her forward. Down she plunges into a rocky
hole, and the turbid water rises up over Sylvia's boot. She confesses
afterward that her courage sinks a little. If this is " deep fording" at
the shore, what will it be in midstream ? She says nothing, but lifts the
mare into shallower water, and follows Charley closely us he slowly
splashes ahead. A few yards from the shore they begin to feel the force of
the current—a force which increases with every step, and makes the horses
totter as they breast it. For the first time in her life Sylvia crows n
little giddy as she looks down at the swift, eddying river. A fear of
falling from her seat comes over her, and she clutches the saddle, but
does not utter a word. On they go, the horses stumbling over the rocky
bottom, the current growing moment stronger, the water rising moment
higher. It is permanently over and above Sylvia's boot now, and sweeps the
skirts which she vainly attempts to lift out of it. Brave as she \*t she
begins to feel dismayed, and wonders how this will end, when suddenly
Charley stops. She knows at once that something is wrong by the expression
of his face as he looks round.
"We must go back," he says. "I dare not take you farther. I fear I have
mistaken the ford, and another foot of water will swim the horses."
"Go back I" repeats Sylvia. She looks around. They are in the middle of
the stream, which sweeps tumultuously down upon their swaying horses. She
never for
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gets the sight—which is one of terror as well as of majesty. The distance
to either bank seems as great as the width of the entire river when
regarded from one of those banks,
able every instant that she will lose bottom. Charley glances round in
anxiety, and meets a brave, bright smile.
" You were right in describing this as
while the view up and down Is wildly beautiful. Just now she does not
think of the beauty, however. She realizes fully the danger of their
position, but she lifts her hand and points ahead. " We are as near that
shore as the other," she says, " Let us go on."
The quietness of her tone reassures Charley. He has evidently no burst of
terrified hysterics to dread.
" I hope this is the deepest water," he says, " but if it is not—if the
horses lose bottom and are forced to swim—don't be frightened! If you keep
your seat, Bonnibelle will carry you safely through. Cling to
Forward again—the horses breasting the impetuous current, which nearly
sweeps them off their feet, gallantly and steadily. Still higher the water
rises. In another minute they must be forced to swim, Sylvia thinks,
gathering all her resolution and courage to her aid. The water is at this
time nearly on a level with Bonnibelle's back, and it is probed fording,
I" says Sylvia. " She'll swim in another moment, I think."
"Can you keep your seat?" he asks. " Shall I come and hold you on ? "
Even under these circumstances, Sylvia resents this as an imputation on
her horse-worn.
" No, indeed !" she answers. " I'm quite capable of keeping my seat
without being held on."
Two or three yards farther of deep wading, and tile —blessed relief! — the
water grows a little shallower. The horses splash on resolutely, yet
cautiously, pausing on every stone, as Sylvia afterward says, to feel for
the next. As they approach the shore the current grows less strong, the
stream more shallow. At length they reach the bank, ride out of the water
and find themselves safe on dry ground.
" Thank God!" says Charley—who is not usually devout—with a sincerity that
cannot be doubted. "Laurel was child's-play to that! " he goes on,
flinging himself from his
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
horse and coming to Sylvia's aide. " What a heroine you are !" he says. "
But I shall never forgive myself."
" Why not ?" she asks, with that slight, nervous laugh which is so
significant of a tension removed. " We have come through safely, and I
have to thank you for another adventure. Charley, I am going to confess
something—I was frightened for a little while in the middle of (he
stream."
"So was I — horribly!" he says. "I thought I had lost the ford, and that,
weighted with boots and heavy clothing, I should have to swim with you to
the bank. Lanier would have taken better cure of you."
" He would have taken better care of himself—there's not a doubt of that,"
she answers, coolly. "But you and I love danger, and some day, perhaps, as
the Bible says, we shall perish in it."
"I hope we may perish together, then."
to say that you've forded the
"What pleasure or profit would that be to either of us ? But does it wet
occur to you that we are rather wet ? "
" Wet! I should think so." He touches her heavy, dripping skirts with his
hand. "What shall we do? You must dry yourself, or our adventure may end
by making you ill."
" I must dry myself—and so must you— or the others will know what we have
done— and I don't want them to know."
" They are bound to know, for the ferryman will tell them that we have not
crossed there."
" But they need not be told how deep the ford was, or what danger we were
in. I should never, never hear the last of it from Aunt Markham if she
knew."
"And she would never trust you with me again. You are right—it is best to
say as little about it as possible. We will describe the ford as
admirable. Now, I think I see a house yonder where we can go and dry
ourselves."
They ride up to the house, which stands a little back from the road, with
steep, cultivated hills rising immediately
ed in the door with a spinning - wheel. She stops spinning and looks at
the equestrians as they pause. Charley uncovers like a cavalier.
"Good-day, madam,1' he says. "We have just forded the river below here and
found it high —so high that this lady is very wet. Will you let her come
in and dry herself? "
The eyes of the spinner open wide—her countenance expresses the extreme of
stolid astonishment.
say that you've forded the river!" she says. "Well, I wonder! Why, •!' she
says." there ain't but one man
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forded therefore months past—and lie came near havin' his team drowned.
You see the river, it's been awful high all summer, arid they say the
ford's dreadful washed out by the big fresh last spring."
Charley and Sylvia look at each other. They feel more than ever that it is
necessary they should keep the knowledge of their adventure to themselves.
" May I come in and dry my clothes?" the young lady asks, with the
courtesy which Tiever fails to win courtesy from others. " I shall not be
long,"
moving her wheel back, " Sakes !—but you
claims, as Sylvia, having been lifted from her horse, comes in. "I'll make
up a fire—here, Milady, you and Jake bring some wood—so you kin dry
yourself."
Marilyn and Jake—members of a band of staring, tow-headed
children—disappear immediately, but Sylvia's mind is more bent on escaping
detection than on drying herself.
" Pray tell me," shi* says, eagerly, " have a party from the springs
passed here on their any to Paint Rock—two carriages and several people on
horseback?"
"No," the woman answers, shaking her head. She has seen no such
party—where* upon Sylvia darts back to the door.
" They have not passed yet," she says to Charley, " but, of course, they
will before long, and they will see the horses and come and find us, it's
you don't take care. Put the horses out of sight—anywhere! I won't be in
such a plight as this !"
" You kin take the horses to the stable yonder of you've a mind to," says
the Instead, coining forward. " I'm sorry none 6' the boys is about fur to
help you."
" Thanks—I don't need any help," says Charley; and, obedient to orders, he
marches off, leading the two horses.
Sylvia watches him with a smile. Then she retires to an inner room, and,
taking off her wet garments, puts on some C0:irse but clean ones of her
hostess, whose heart is quite won by her bright face and sweet manners.
Scarcely has this been accomplished and the dripping clothes hung before
the fire to dry, when a roll of approaching wheels is heard, and she
rushes to the window in time to see the phaeton and wagon drive past,
laden with their merry crowd. Next come
two gentlemen on horseback, and then Miss Hollis and Mr. Lanier appear—
the former making au heroic effort to smile as she is bumped to and fro in
her seat by a horse that will trot despite her frantic tugs at his rein;
the latter wearing an air of the most unmistakable bulkiness.
It is sad to relate that Miss Norwood laughs over this spectacle until
tears stand in her merry eyes, and she has by no means recovered her
gravity when, several minutes later, Mr. Kenyon, very damp about (he lower
extremities, but insouciant as ever, appears.
" 0 Charley ! did you see them ? " she cries. " Is your conscience torn by
remorse ? Don't you know that at this moment Miss Hollis could drown me,
and Mr. Lanier could drown you, with the greatest pleasure ? "
" We cant very near gratifying them both," says Charley. " Yes, I looked
round a corner of the stable and saw the cavalcade. Lanier seemed
uncommonly cheerful. I am afraid that, between her horse and her escort,
Miss Hollis is hardly enjoying her excursion."
" You can make amends for all by riding home with her — only, if she was
of my mind, she would not let you do so."
" She will not be of your mind," says Charley, with an air of resignation.
The duty of riding home with Miss Hollis is in the future, however, so he
dots not suffer it to weigh on his spiriis.
There can be no doubt that these two scapegraces enjoy the hour which they
are forced to spend in this manner. There is a freedom from restraint, a
flavor of adventure in it which pleases the taste of both.
"I vote that we go somewhere and spend the day by ourselves," says
Charley. " Those people down at Paint Rock are all more or le^s bores."
" How kind of you to say so ! I shall tell Alice and Eric."
"Of course I didn't mean Alice and Eric. But sortie of the rest—that puppy
Lanier, for instance.—See here, Sylvia, do you intend to marry him ? "
He breaks off abruptly in this way—they are sitting on the piazza alone
together—and looks at her with an appealing glance in the blue eyes she
knows so well. A of crimson comes to her face.
" What do you mean by asking me such a
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
question, Charley?" she demands, indignantly. "Do you think it likely that
intend to marry a man who has not asked me
Charley utters a low whistle, expressive of intense incredulity.
"That is beating the devil about the bush," he says. "You know as well aa
I do what Lanier means, and what he hopes. As for me, I've never made any
secret of what I feel for you. I don't pretend that it gives me any claim
on you; I'm perfectly aware that you don't care two pins for me; but
you might let me know whether you contemplate becoming Mrs. Lanier."
The color still remains on her face. She down, and beats nervously on the
side of her foot with her riding-whip.
" Honestly, I don't know," she says, " but
—-I—don't—think—I—do. . It is impossible to tell, however. The world and
the devil may prove too strong for me. One thing is certain—I don't
encourage him. You see for yourself that I snub him constantly."
"Your clothes are dry, miss, if you want to put 'em on," says a voice
behind.
The dry clothes having been assumed and the horses brought out, they set
forth with renewed spirit in search of their party. The day has advanced
considerably toward its zenith, but heat in this altitude is rarely op- I
preside. Moreover, the road is very shaded |
—the same turnpike along the bed of the river
they have become familiar—and their rapid
scene succeeds another, like enchantment. Here and there the winding river
grows still and glassy as a mountain-lake, sweeping softly by banks that
are shadowed by drooping trees and draped with graceful vines. Again it
breaks into turnout once more, though not snail tumult as that above the
Springs, or flows in eddying ripples around the greenest
beneath a magnificent cliff, the surface of which is broken into irregular
escarpments like layers of stone, and Charley says:
"Here is the Paint Rock. Notice the streaks of color from which it takes
its name. Is it not singular that anybody could be so ignorant as to fancy
that this, which plainly is part of the composition of the rock, was hid
on by human hands ? "
" Does anybody really think so V " "Yes, a great many people think that
the Indians painted it—at least they say so. The mingling of colors is
certainly peculiar, is it
"Very peculiar and very beautiful. 1 wish you were a geologist, that you
might tell me what gives that deep-red tint. Hark 1 what is that ?"
It is a shout, apparently from the clouds.
"Halloo!" says a voice from above. "Here we are!"
Charley looks up and waves his hat by way of reply. Sylvia also glances
up. A hundred and fifty feet above, a group of figures stand, outlined
like silhouettes against the blue sky. Riding a little farther, they find
the carriages and horses in the shade by the river-bank, with Harrison
reclining comfortably on the seat of the wagon. Seeing the riders
approach, he lifts himself and descends to the ground.
" Mass Eric and all of 'em's been wonder-in' what's come of you, Mass
Charley," he says, taking Cecil, as Charley springs down, " They told me
to tell you they've up on the rock."
" So I see," says Charley.—" Now, Sylvia, pin up your habit well, for we
have some steep climbing to do."
"Here?" asks Sylvia, looking a little aghast at the face of the great rock
which towers over them.
" No, this way," he answers, passing round the corner of the cliff, to the
side where Paint Creek cornea down to the French Broad, reflecting in its
clear water the varied tints of the lese? of rock that, rise over it.
A winding path—and a very steep one— leads from here to the summit of the
cliff. When, breathless and exhausted, the two truants appear on top, they
are received with a form of greetings and inquiries :
"Where on earth have you been?"— "What have you been doing?"—""Are you not
ashamed of yourselves ? "—" How is it that they to us at the ferry you had
not crossed the river? "—" How did you get behind UH when you started in
front?"
These and many like inquiries are asked all at once. Sylvia lifts her
hands with an air of appeal. " Spare us, good people," she says. "Just now
we have no breath to tell you anything. Will somebody lend me a fan ?"
" I have been seriously uneasy about you,"
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
says Eric to Charley. " Not hearing of you at the ferry, I was afraid you
had attempted to ford the riverr where we were in the habit of doing so a
year or two ago, and the ferryman says the ford is dangerous now."
" We can testify that he is mistaken," says Charley, with the most
admirable nonchalance. " We did cross at the ford, and here we are in
safety."
" Crossed at the ford 1" repeats a horrified chorus. " Good Heavens, what
a risk!" '
" Are you in earnest ? " asks Eric, suspiciously. " If you crossed at the
ford you ought to have been ahead of us, and here you are an hour behind."
"We spent that time eating muscadines on the bank of the river. It does
not answer to hurry one's self on an excursion of this kind."
says Eric, dryly.
Meanwhile Mr. Lanier and Miss Hollis are conspicuous by their absence.
Sylvia glances round, and presently sees them at the farther end of the
role. " We must go and make amends for our rudeness," she says to Charley.
" They have really cause to he offended."
Neither of them proves implacable, and harmony to soon restored, only Mr.
Limber grows pale when he hers that Sylvia has added to her list of
ad-Ventures the feat of having folded the " racing river."
" If I had been with have suffered you to run says.
"So I told Charley," body, demurely.
The view from the top of the Paint Rock, without being grand or extensive,
is very beautiful, especially on one of the summer days, when white,
billowy clouds lazily follow in the wake of the sun. It is exactly
such a day when we stand on the breezy height, and see the French Broad
with its fairy islets, far below. Chains of hills melt softly into each
other in every direction, for our elevation enables us to overlook those
walls of green which, from the level of the river, bound the gorge, and
blue peaks stand outlined against the sky. Over all the wide panorama
shifting shadows fall with charming effect, and the variety of tints
baffles analysis
I should never mach a risk," he
the you
sis or description. We are in the heart of that great range of mountains,
known at different points as the Smoky, the Unaka, and the Roan, which
divides North Carolina from her daughter Tennessee; and, wherever we turn,
some scene of striking beauty arrests the attention. Half a mile farther
down the river are the Chimneys—rocks in formation very like the one on
which we stand, broken by some caprice of Nature into isolated,
chimney-like
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"THE LAND OP THE SKY;" OR,
shapes; but the road to them has been washed away by the turbulent river,
and never replaced. Hence they are almost inaccessible. A portion of our
party go as far as practicable, and report that by standing on some
tilting stones in (he bed of the river, and craning their necks around a
cliff-like projection, they are only able to obtain a partial and
unsatisfactory view. Those who remain behind, therefore, congratulate
themselves on their wisdom. Certainly to sit on the summit of the great
rock under the shade of the pines that grow here and there, with the
boundless, sapphire sky above and the lovely, outspread world below, is a
pleasure that must be put in the list of those which are great in memory
as in reality.
CHAPTER IS.
A channel for the stream had given,
So high the cliffs of limestone say
Hung o'er the torrent's way."
" I THINK," says Sylvia, deliberately, " that I should Like to climb that
height."
She points as she speaks, and we all look round. Immediately behind the
Paint Rock, on which we are gathered, stands an abrupt and rugged
mountain, towering several hundred feet higher, and showing an almost
precipitous side.
"I wonder what you will propose to do next?" I say. "Who do you fancy will
risk his neck by climbing that mountain with you ? "
" The view from there must be very fine," she remarks, " a great deal
finer than this— which I don't consider at all remarkable.—Mr. Lunier"—she
turns with her sweetest smile to that gentleman—" will you go with me? "
Mr. Lanier hesitates. Pity him, all prudent people who dislike unnecessary
exertion and avoid useless risks! He is comfortably seated under a
pine-tree, fanning the young lady who proposes this feat, and, being as
averse to it as a man could be, he looks at the mountain in troubled
silence for an instant. Then he says:
" You have no idea what you are proposing. It is quite impossible for you
to ascend that hill. There is no path, and the side is terribly steep—it
would be dangerous to attempt such a thing."
"Dangerous!" Her lip curls. "Every
thing is dangerous, except walking on level ground—and even then one might
fall in the river. I know I can climb up there—and I
"Bravo, Miss Norwood!" cries an unexpected voice—the voice of a gay young
wid-
to Eric. " If you succeed, I'll follow you."
" Had you not better come with me, Mrs. Cardigan ?" says Sylvia. "Perhaps,
after we have made the ascent, some of the gentlemen may feel it safe to
follow."
" More likely we shall be obliged to go below and gather up your
fragments," says one of the gentlemen, composedly.
"Yes, I believe I will go with you," says Mrs. Cardigan. "It is very
stupid to do no more than hundreds of other people have
" That sentiment has been the cause of more foolish risks than could be
reckoned," says Eric, " but, if yon are in earnest about climbing the
hill—and are not afraid of a sunstroke—I'll take you up."
" Thank you," says Mrs. Cardigan, viciously. "People never have sunstrokes
in the mountains, I believe.—Well, Miss Norwood, are you ready ?"
Yes, Sylvia says she is ready, and she rises without a glance at her
companion. But that unhappy man rises also, with an heroic attempt to look
cheerful.
" I haven't an idea that you can reach the top—and I'm sure you'll be
sorry that you made the attempt," he says ; " but of course I'll my best
to take. you up."
"Pray don't come on my account," says Sylvia. " I need very little
assistance in
This is not very gracious encouragement
manner, besides risking his neck; but 11 -, Lanier feels that he is put
upon his mettle, and he will not recede.
" Lend the way, Markham," he says. "You
rocks and swinging to bushes better than I do."
"Eric shall not lead the way!" cries Sylvia, springing forward, " 1 made
the proposal, and I insist upon going first."
Poor Mr. Lanier! It is impossible not in laugh at the glance with which he
regards the height before him as he follows the young
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
who—with her riding-skirt looped to her ankles—takes her way along the
neck of land which connects the rock with the mountain.
" How much energy Miss Norwood has!" says Miss Hollis, with a little
shudder. " I do not think I should like to be her escort— on a mountain."
" She certainly puts Lanier through A course of exercise which lie would
not be likely to undertake of himself," says a sympathetic gentleman. "
I'm sorry for the fellow, and I shouldn't be surprised if she broke his
neck and her own too."
" There's not the least danger of her breaking her own neck," puts in
Charley's quiet voice. "She climbs like a deer, and her head is as cool
as—as an iceberg. But I wouldn't insure Lanier's neck," the speaker ends,
calmly.
The ascent of the mountain is slow and very difficult. Sylvia was correct
in saying that she requires little assistance—which is fortunate, since it
is evidently quite as much ts her escort can do to assist himself. She
leads the way, grasping the bushes with one hand, and planting her
alpenstock with the other. Eric and Mrs. Cardigan take a slightly
different route, and the two couples keep tolerably well abreast of each
other. Now and then they pause to rest, and once we see Sylvia mounted on
a large rock, waving her handkerchief to us ia an ecstatic manner, while
Mr. Lanier leans exhausted against it.
" What hot work it must be!" say the lookers-on.
" I am as devoted to Nature as anybody," remarks Miss Hollis, " but I must
say that I think such an extension as this foolish—don't you, Mr. Kenyon ?
"
"lam opposed on principle to all unnecessary exertion," answers Mr.
Kenyon, " and just now I am so well satisfied to be under this tree—with
you—that the finest view in the world could not tempt me away."
As the adventurous climbers mount higher and yet higher, it makes one
giddy to look at them, hanging by such precarious foothold on the
precipitous height. Several times we prophesy that they will be forced to
return without gaining the summit, but they go on undauntedly, sending
showers of loose stones down the mountain at every step. Occasionally we
lose sight of them among the rocks and bushes, but again they are in full
view, and we can see them, for they have joined forces, dragging each
other up some particularly steep ascent. At last, a faint, prolonged shout
tells us that they have reached the top, and we recognize Mrs. Cardigan in
the figure that waves a handkerchief on an alpenstock exultantly.
" The question now is, how long will they stay there?" says a member of
the party, who is anxious for his dinner.
They remain for what seems to us a long time, and it is not until most of
the gentlemen have made themselves hoarse by should that probably not
heard, and certainly not answered, that they begin the descent. This is
almost as difficult as the ascent, and it is still some time before they
appear on tie rock, with fates flushed scarlet, dresses torn, and an utter
insolvency in the matted of breath. Sylvia speaks first.
"Look at my gloves!" she says, extending her hands.
We look, and appreciate fifty per cent, higher the difficulties of the
ascend. The gloves are dog-skin gauntlets, and the entire palms are peeled
off white.
" You should keep those in remembrance of the Paint Rock Mountain," says
some one.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" She has plenty of mementos," says Mr. Lamer. " Look here ! "
We look and laugh. He is very much of a dandy in the matter of dress, this
hapless gentleman, and to see all his coat-pockets
bulging with stones, and crammed with ferns and mosses, is a sight which
might move the gravest to mirth, and the most insensible to compassion.
" She wanted to fill my hat, too," he says, " but T humbly submitted that
I had no way to carry it except on my head, and it would have been
inconvenient to have had several pounds of stones and moss in it."
" Not to such an enthusiast as yourself, I should think," remarks one of
the amused by-standers.
Eric on his part is laden with a fragment of rock so large that no pocket
which was
ever made would contain it, and how he has managed to bring it down the
mountain— not to speak of bringing Mrs. Cardigan also —we are unable to
imagine.
" He seemed to have no difficulty about it," says that lady; " but, if an
emergency had arisen, I am sure he would have let me go and kept the
rock."
" I should have been more excusable in such a case than you think," lie
answers. "I have several specimens of the Paint Rock, but none so perfect
as this. Look at the streaks of color on it —why, it is admirable!" " And
unique, I suppose ; while women are easy enough to find," she says,
laughing.—"But I hope nobody thinks me in earnest," she goes on, turning
to the others. "Mr. Markham is the most capable and careful escort, and
when he needed both hands to assist me he laid his specimen tenderly down,
and then went back for it."
" But what did you see to repay you for all this?" we ask.
" See !" replied Sylvia; " why, twenty times at least as much as you see
here. Hundreds of mountains in that direction "— a sweeping motion toward
Karla Carolina—"and the whole State of Tennessee as far as the Cumberland
Mountains.— Didn't we, Eric?"
" Not exactly the whole State," says Eric, "but the Cumberland Mountains
certainly. We were on the top of the ridge, and the view was very fine."
Soon after this—the day having considerably passed its meridian — we
scramble down the steep path at the aide of the rock, and take our way to
the carriages. Standing there in the cool shade of the trees that j fringe
the river, we look up at the great cliff,
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
are struck afresh by its majesty. Its I rugged escarpments stand out
boldly, for no shrub grows on the broken and irregular face of the
precipice.
When we are about to start, Eric says:
" By-the-by, Charley, since you found the ford so good, we might as well
cross there,
instead of undergoing the delay of the ferry."
A quick glance passes between Charley and Sylvia — a glance compounded
equally
of amusement and consternation—then the
"I wouldn't advise you to do so. The ford is—well, rather deep. We crossed
there, but we decided to try the ferry-boat our return."
" Ah ! " says Eric. He makes no further remark until we are in the
carriage; then he says: " I knew all the time that scamp was telling what
was not true when he said the ford was safe. It is certainly dangerous,
and he carried Sylvia through it." .
" How rash !" says Mrs. Cardigan. "And Mr. Kenyon is the last person I
should suspect of rashness."
"Charley is an impostor," says Eric. " When he throws off his
indolence—which Ls half affectation—he is not only energetic, but daring
to recklessness,"
" And Sylvia is as rash as he is," I say. " They should never be
allowed to go out together."
"Sometimes they don't ask permission —this morning, for instance, they did
not," Bays Mrs. Cardigan, with a laugh.
We reach the Springs in time for a late dinner, and indemnify ourselves
for the fatigue of the morning by an afternoon siesta of unusual length.
It is nearly sunset when we gather on the lawn near the river-bank. All
the tide of watering place life is astir. People are sitting or walking
under the shade of the large trees ; across a stretch of greensward stands
the hotel with a tide of well-dressed humanity flowing up and down its
long piazzas ; over the river the last rays of sunlight are shining on the
crests of the hills at the base of which the stream flows.
We are idly enjoying this picture, and Aunt Markham is telling the
latest items of gossip afloat during the day, when Mrs. Cardigan conies
up. She is very handsome, this fast young widow—a brunette of the richest
" type, with a degree of style that would mark even a plain woman.
" Who will walk to Lover's Leap to set-the sunset ? " she asks. " Surely
you are not all exhausted by our Paint Rock expedition ?
—Miss Norwood, I find that by climbing that mountain we have enrolled
ourselves on the list of heroines—did you know it?"
" Reputation must be easily made in this part of the world," says Sylvia,
laughing.
The stroll to Lover's Leap is a short one, and the ascent of the cliff"
comparatively easy, We soon find ourselves on top, with the narrow road
winding like a thread below, and the turbulent river chafing over its
rocks.
" If I were one of the class of lovers who make leaps," says Charley,
meditatively, "I should prefer this place for the purpose to any other
(hat I have ever seen. It has several advantages. In the first place, the
height is good; in the second place, one could spring without difficulty
into the water."
" And then swim out, if one liked," say« Mrs. Cardigan, laughing. " But
you are right
—it is the best Lover's Leap I have ever seen. And I think we have the
best view of the Springs from here."
It is a very good view, indeed. We overlook the green valley, with the
hotel in the foreground, and a beautiful stretch of varying landscape
behind. Blue, wooded hills enclose it like the walls of an amphitheatre,
and we see beyond still bluer heights, with the pomp of the sunset-sky
spread above. It is a pomp which is dazzling in its glory.
Fantastically-shaped clouds of crimson and rose
their edges are gilded with a radiance at which we can scarcely look.
"What royal magnificence!" says Sylvia. " Sometimes the sun dies like a
sovereign."
"Rather too much magnificence I" says Eric. "At least there are too many
clouds; I fear we shall have bad wealthier again."
"That will be a pity," I observe, " since Aunt Markham has consented to
start back to Asheville to-morrow."
"What!" cries Mrs. Cardigan, with an expression of the most sincere
dismay, "are you going to leave the Springs? Oh, how sorry I am 1 I hoped
we should climb a great many more mountains together.—0 Mr. Mark-ham ! how
can you be so faithless ? You know you promised to take me up this
marinating"—and she points to the one behind the cliff on which we are
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY:" OR,
" I am at your service," says Eric. " Shall
"You know that is nonsense; how can we climb it with the sun gone and
twilight about to fall ? But, if you leave to-morrow, I shall consider
that you have broken your plighted faith, and perhaps I shall throw
my-sell' from this rock like the ubiquitous Indian maiden who was
afflicted with suicidal
In that case we can't think of leaving you behind," says Sylvia. "Why
should you cot come with us ? The gorge of the French Broad from this
point to Asheville is a great deal better worth seeing than any thing you
can find here."
" It would be a good idea," Mrs. Cardigan answers. "If I return by Wolf
Creek—as I came—I shall fail to see the finest scenery on the river—shall
I not ? "
" You will have seen none at all," says Eric. "The grandeur of the gorge
is all above here."
" Then I must see It ! " she
says
only waited for a good opportunity to do so, and I am sure I could not
find a better one than this."
So the matter seems to be settled. I suggest aside to Charley that he had
better invite Miss Holly to join our party also ; but he does not receive
the idea with favor.
" I think we are best as we are," he says. " I would rather vote for
decreasing than in
We linger on the met of the cliff until
the sunset-tinted have melted into dusk the clouds have lost their
splendor. Even then it is hard to turn and go — not knowing when we shall
look on so fair a scene again, The great hills stand around, wrapped in
their everlasting silence ; the river surges along its stormy way below;
soft evening shadows have fallen over the valley ; purple shades arc
gathering on all the mountain-sides ; a Faint yet lovely glow of color
still lingers in the west ; the is delicious in its freshness.
" Why cannot one grasp such hours as this, and make them last ? " says
Sylvia, with a sigh.
" Here comes the Asheville stage," says Mr. Lanier, leaning over the edge
of the
cliff.
Mrs. Cardigan looks over also, and drops it flower on the head of an
outside passenger, who glances up with a start,
"Heave's! how ugly he is!" she says. " If he were young and handsome, now,
what
" I am sure he would be young and hard. some if possible," says Charley; "
but I beg to observe that ugly men are by no means insensible to openings
for romance. 1 belong to that class myself, BO I know whereof 1 speak."
" Charley, such remarks are never in good taste," says Sylvia. "Don't try
to extort compliments, but help me down this cliff."
" I thought you never required help in climbing," says Mr. Lanier,
watching with me jealousy the hands which surrender themselves to Charley.
" This is not climbing—it is descending," replies the your lady, coolly, "
and I don't want to fall. It is much easier to mount than to go down."
I do not think that Mr. Lanier is altogether convinced by this positive
statement —or perhaps he remembers how often his assistance was declined
during the descent of the morning. At all events, he walks by my side as
we return to the hotel—a fact which docs not seem to damp Sylvia's
spirits, for we hear her voice chatting gaily to Charley as they stroll in
front.
The next morning we prepare to leave the Springs, but, despite the
conversation on Lover's Leap the evening before, most of us are surprised
when Mrs. Cardigan appears in traveling-dress, and announces that she has
taken a seat in the stage.
" I only regret that I shall be separated
go on the top of the coach. One can see so little inside—but one does not
like to mount on the top without a gentleman."
At this we all look at Eric, who, after a moment's hesitation, does what
is expected of him with tolerable grace.
" If you will allow me," he says, " T will take a seat with you on the top
ol1 the coach. You can see nothing not all inside, and yon need some one
who is familiar with the river to point out the noted places to you."
"Oh, how delightful that would bell" cries Mrs. Cardigan, rapturously. "
But I cannot be selfish enough to consent to such a thing! You must not
leave your charming carriage to mount on that jolting stage— don't tempt
me, please! Good-by."
She waves her hand and turns away Erie
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shrugs his shoulders slightly and follows. There is a moment or two of
laughing dispute at the door of the coach, then she suffers herself to be
elevated to the deck-sent, and he follows.
" Please don't blame me, Mrs. Mark-bam ! " she cries. " He mil go I"
" Don't drive the horses hard, John," says Eric. "Take the day leisurely.
We will stop at Alexander's."
With this the coach drives off—Mrs. Cardigan's blue veil fluttering like a
pennon of victory in the breeze, while Eric holds an umbrella over her. We
all laugh at the sight. It is something altogether novel to see
Eric-playing the part of cavalier.
"What a taking way some women—widows, especially—have! " says Charley. "
If Eric is not taken for good by the time he reaches Alexander's, it will
not be the lady's fault."
The stage has been gone probably an hour when we start. Though it is not
much after than nine o'clock, the heat is already sultry, and there clouds
on lie mountains which betoken rain. We agree that there will probably be
a storm later in the day, but we enjoy the sunshine while it lasts. At
Mountain Island Sylvia insists on baiting; aid we go out as far as
possible on the ledge of rock over which the current pours in foaming
rapids. Standing here, we look up at the island, which rises fifty or
sixty feet, above us—a bold lily in the midst of the raging stream.
"I should like to go there," says Sylvia, wistfully. But, with the best
intentions, neither of her attendants can devise any means of transporting
her over the whirling fall which intervenes between our standpoint and the
island.
"If one had a boat, one could cross at the lower end and mount to the
headland," says Mr. Lanier.
This suggestion is not of much value, however, since we have no boat, so
we are forced to content ourselves with gazing. The sides of the hill are
covered with a growth of ferns, which literally carpet it, but the trees
have been burned, and now stand black and bare, disfiguring the beautiful
picture.
" What odious barbarian was guilty of (bit outrage?" asks Sylvia, in a
tone of infant scorn.
" acme hunting barbarian, I believe," answers Charley. "I have been told
that the trees were burned because the deer, when hard pressed by the
dogs, would swim the river and take refuge there."
"Oh, the wretches!" says Sylvia—which complimentary epithet is evidently
not meant to apply either to the deer or the dogs.
Presently John appears on the bank, charged with a message: "Mists say you
better come on, Mass Charley—she wants to git over Laurel 'fore the rain
comes up."
" A fig for the rain I" says Charley—but we turn reluctantly from the
stormy rapids, the towering island, the whole wild, lovely
does not come up before we reach Laurel, and that river is found to be in
a very satisfactory state. Aunt Markham stops at Wash's cabin and makes
solicitous inquiries.
" Do you think it would be safer if I crossed in the canoe ? " she asks.
Wash grins a little.
" I'm willin' to take you over «f you like, ma'am," he answers, " but the
river's down low enough for fordin* now."
" Go on, then, John," she says, tremendously.
At all times Laurel is deep fording; and the current is very swift and
strong, but we accomplish the passage safely—John being the best of
drivers, and the horses true as steel.
" Good-by to Laurel! " says Sylvia, as she rides out of the clear water on
the farther side. " I shall never, never forget it."
"I shat nuther," says John," fur it's the only place I ever heard of
talus' a carriage to pieces and carryin' it over up a canoe "
We have not left this famous stream—and Laurel has fame of more kinds than
one— half a mile behind, when the expected rain comes—a white, hard
shower, which all in a second, as it were, sweeps over the mountains and
pours upon us.
" Of course it begins again as soon as we start," says Aunt Markham, who
plainly thinks that there is strong evidence of malice pretense on the
part of the clouds.
We draw on our water-proofs, raise the carriage-top, and resign ourselves
to our fate. The masculine portion of the party put on their overcoats and
pull down their hats.
"Greatest country for rain ever I Bee!"
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says John, as we plod along the narrow road, hemmed by towering cliff's
and turbulent river, with the rain pouring in a white sheet far as our
vision extends.
Before long the violence of the storm abates, the clouds puss as quickly
as they came, the sun breaks forth — Nature is drenched, but how
beautiful! Rocks, trees,
moisture which the sunlight turns to diamonds. We throw off our wraps and
put back the top, careless that the drooping boughs under which we pass
rain down absolute showers upon us ;is the breeze stirs them. We wind
around a rocky curve, and a 'magnificent river-view is we're us—the stream
plunging and whirling against the boulders that bar its way, and tossing
in white-capped waves over the ledges, the great overshadowing hills
wearing a faint-blue tint as the vista recedes, and mists like while smoke
rising from the gorges. The rain has swollen all the short mountain
streams, which come leaping down the hill-sides in white cascades. One
narrow creek, into
is so high that the water runs into the carriage, wetting our feet and
invading our
lunch-basket. Aunt Markham's face as she sits with her feet elevated on
the front seat, while the horses struggle through the turbid torrent—which
three or four feet lower pours over a ledge of rock into the river—is a
study of mingled expressions. "0 John, how frightful!" she says, when we
have gained the steep bank and are safe.
. " Yes'm — it was a considerable risk," says John. " If these horses
wasn't the gamest I ever drove, we'd a-gone into the river certain. I was
of the 'pinion for about a minute that we was gain'."
"There's no good in frightening one's self over past danger," I say. " We
didn't go— that's enough.—Jump out, aunty. The carriage is full of water,
and my feet are as wet as if I had waded."
Varied fray such adventures as these—for two or three more clouds
discharge themselves upon us—we travel up the gorge, pausing now and then
when the weather chances to be propitious. There are rocks — like those at
the Devil's Slip Gap—to be climbed; flowers, ferns, and
mountain-geraniums, to be gathered; muscadines to be eaten; finally,
luncheon to be taken in a green river-nook, with the half-obscured
sunshine lying on the breast of the current as it sweeps by.
"How glad I am that we have left the Springs behind ! " says Sylvia. " How
delightful it is to be traveling again ! Would it not be pleasant to
prolong this gypsy life indefinitely?"
" Very pleasant," says Charley. "There might be worse things than to '
ride, ride, forever ride,' as the crazy lover in Browning's poem wanted to
do. There might also be worse things than resting on the rocks in the
shade, with sandwiches to eat and claret to drink."
"And the French Broad before one's eyes!"
The pleasant hour ends, as all pleasant hours do, however. We start again,
and, traveling leisurely, ranch Alexander's at sunset. This place looks
pastoral in its loveliness as we approach—the embowered house lying in the
arms of encircling hills, the glassy river in front painted with sunset
hues, two figures on the bridge, and a riding-party winding along the
road.
We discover, when we approach, that to figures on the bridge are those of
Mrs. Cunigan
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AD VESTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
find Eric. They cross the road as we draw up before the gate.
" You are late," says the latter. "What has delayed you? "
"Oh—every tiling 1" replies Aunt Mark-ham. " Storms, floods, torrents
running into the carriage and nearly sweeping it away— Eric, you need
never ask me to come to this country again, until there is a railroad."
" You may be sure that I never will," says Eric, laughing.
We spend three or four days at Alexander's—delightful days in which we
walk and ride, climb the hills, and go out boating on the river. Gray
rocks, rushing water, green boughs drooping — these things, in varied
combinations, flame the idle, golden hours. The sound of the stream
becomes like the
are almost sorry when the day arrives for us
to gather together what Eric calls our
traps," and set forth on our travels again.
CHAPTER X.
" What now to me the jars of life,
Its petty cares, its harder throes ? The hills are free from toil and
strife, And clasp me in their deep repose."
" Now," says Eric, " who is ready for the ascent of the Black Mountain f "
This question is addressed to the assembled party the day after our return
to Asheville. The drive from Alexander's was very pleasant, and the next
day is brilliantly clear —so clear that. Eric says:
" If we were only on the Black, what a view we should have !"
" How far is it to the Black" asks Aunt Markham, with a sigh. " Can we go
and return in a day ?"
"My dear mother, what are you thinking of?" says Eric. " It is a day's
journey from here to the foot of the mountain. Then it takes the best part
of the next day to ascend :t; and when you are once on top you are very
willing to spend the night there."
" Spend the night!—where ? "
"Eric!"
« I am not joking, I assure you—Charley will tell you that I am not. It is
a very good shelter, and balsam-boughs make a capital "
"A cave! — balsam-boughs I" Aunt Markham looks so sincerely and utterly
overwhelmed that the most of us cannot restrain a laugh. " It can't be
possible, Eric," she says, majestically, " that you expect me to go on
such an expedition as that ?"
"Honestly, I don't think you would b« likely to enjoy it," replies Eric,
candidly. " You had better stay here, perhaps, while the rest of us go."
This proposal is not received so easily as it is made. Aunt Markham looks
still more majestic. " You forget that there ought to be a chaperon in
such a party," she says.
" I'm chaperon, enough," answers Eric, coolly. " Haven't I been taking
care of Alice and Sylvia all their lives, and can't I take care of them on
the Black Mountain ? But, if it will set your mind at rest on the
propriety question, Mrs. Cardigan talks of accompanying us."
"I disapprove of Mrs. Cardigan," is on the tip of Aunt Markham's tongue,
but she does not utter the words. The propriety question must, she thinks,
be considered, and even the shadow of a chaperon is sometimes better than
none.
" I suppose you invited her to join our party ?" says Charley to Eric.
"On the contrary, she invited herself," he answers, quietly. " It was
fortunate, perhaps, since I suppose she will do for a chaperon—eh,
mother?"
"I think she stands very much in nerd of one herself," says Aunt Markham,
severely.
Notwithstanding this unfavorable opinion, the matter is settled as Eric
suggested. The idea of ascending a mountain on horseback, and spending the
night in a cave, is more than Aunt Markham's philosophy is able to endure.
" Twenty-five years ago I might have done such a thing," she says, " but
now—"
" I'd like of all things to see mother mounted on a horse," remarks
Rupert, with a burst of laughter.
" You are an undutiful boy to wish to make game of your own mother—and you
will never be gratified," says Aunt Markham.
Later in the day Mrs. Cardigan joins us, and we discuss the details of the
expedition.
" The first essentials," says Eric, " are to provide ourselves with plenty
to eat and plenty to wear. Unless we are careful on those points, we shall
suffer with hunger and cold."
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"Not is doubt of that!" says Charley. "The 'Slack Mountain is the most
famous place now for becoming ravenously hungry and uncomfortably cold."
" But there is no lesson why it should be so," says Mr. Lunier. " Surely
it is possible for a party to take with them all that they are likely to
need in the way of food and clothing."
"Not so possible as you might think. The air up there gives people
appetites such as they never had before in their lives; and
of clothing will keep you warm."
"But you make fires, do you not?" asks Mr. Cardigan.
"We try to do so ; but the balsam is the only wood to be had, and it is
the hardest wood in the world out of which to make a fire. If you relax
your attention to it for five minutes, it quietly subsides into & charred
mass of black logs."
"What a prospect" says Mrs. Cardigan, laughingly. " We are to be starved
and to be frozen; and what is to repay us for all this ? "
"The view," says Sylvia, "and the proud consciousness of standing on the
highest point of land east of the Rocky Mountains."
" But it is extremely likely that you will not have the view," says
Charley. "The rule on the Black is not to have it. People
you might count on your fingers the days in the year when its summit is
not wrapped in clouds."
"I think Mr. Kenyon must be endeavoring to dissuade us from making the
ascent," Bays Mrs. Cardigan.
" It is certainly very kind of him to raise our spirits with such pleasant
accounts of ail that we are likely to encounter," says Sylvia. *'But, in
spite of hunger, cold, and clouds, we mean to go."
"I never doubted that for a moment," says Charley.
"With such an able commanding officer as Mr. Markham, I am sure there is
no reason, for apprehend any misadventures," says Mrs. Cardigan, turning
her bright, brunette face toward Eric.
"An officer should not be complimented before his ability has been
tested," he answers. " If it is settled that we start tomorrow, I must go
and make arrangements for a supply of provisions."
He goes—rather glad, I think, to escape from the fair widow's bewitch in
glances. This lady is never at a loss for a subject, however All men, from
seventeen lo seventy, she esteems her lawful prey, and, failing one, she
falls back, with easy grace, upon another. She steps now out of the room
in which we are sitting upon a balcony, and calls Mr. Lanier to admire the
view of the mountains that lie in blue waves along the southern horizon,
"lam so glad that you advised me to come to this place," we hear her say.
" Down at the Springs one was so shut in by hills, that it was almost
equivalent to being in an oven; but here we have these lovely distant
views, and such a stimulating atmosphere. If I was so fortunate as to be
like yourself, one of a pleasant party, how I should delight in scampering
all over the country! But it is so depressing to be alone."
" I am sure there is no reason save your own choice, why you should ever
be alone," says Mi-. Lanier, gallantly.
"Mark ray words, Sylvia," I say, aside, " Mrs. Cardigan has invited
herself to accompany us to the Black—she will invite herself to accompany
us still farther if we do not take care."
" Well, why not? " asks Sylvia, careless-ly. "She is rather entertaining.
Are you afraid for Eric's peace of mind ? "
" Are you not afraid for Ralph Lanier's allegiance?"
She laughs.
"Not I. More attractive women than Mrs. Cardigan have tried to shake
that—and failed."
I make no remark on this confident statement, but I think that there is a
limit to the perseverance of most men, and that a man so persistently
snubbed as Ralph Lanier might be excused for finding a balm for his
woman as Mrs. Cardigan.
The next morning we start on our expedition. The day is bright with the
golden brightness of September, and has that serene charm of atmosphere
which makes the autumn a season of delight. Obedient to or ders, we load
ourselves with wraps of all kinds, but we cannot imagine that we shall
find need /or half of them. Neither can we imagine that under any possible
circumstances our appetites will grow large enough
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
to conspire the amount of provisions with which Eric fills the wagon.
" I think Mr. Markham. must be preparing for a more extensive trip than we
know of," says Mrs. Cardigan, with a laugh.
"Eric, do you mean to drive the. phaeton'.'" I ask.
" Oh, pray do, Mr. Markham!" cries Mrs. Cardigan, eagerly. " I am so fond
of sitting on the front seat, where I can watch the horses—and so fond of
driving, too, when there is a gentleman by to take the reins if any thing
should happen."
"That won't do!" says The, and he smiles as he looks at the speaker, who
stands of the steps in her becoming costume and coquettish hat. "If you
take the reins, you must be prepared to take the consequences
" I'll take any thing whatever, if you will only let me drive those
beautiful horses," she says, gaily.
Sylvia rides, as usual; but Mr. Lanier's horse is unluckily lame, so he is
obliged to leave it behind, and accept a seat in the phaeton. This
necessity depresses his spirits, but Charley's are correspondingly high,
and he canters off by Sylvia's side with an air not calculated to remove
his rival's de-
With many last injunctions from Aunt Markham not to break our necks, and
to be sure and come back on the third day, we finally drive off. Our way
out of Asheville lies toward the Swannanoa, and when we reach that stream
we follow the stage-road immediately along its bank. The valley spreads
fire and green around us, morning lights and shades are on the hills, a
tender yet radiant haze drapes the fur blue mountains, the river flows
swiftly by, full of glancing brightness.
" This is the road which leads to Swannanoa Gap," says Ralph Lanier. "Do
we follow it far?"
"For about twelve miles," Eric answers. " As far as Alexander's."
"I thought we left Alexander's on the French Broad," says Mrs. Cardigan,
who is driving, and does it—as she does every thing —with grace and skill.
" This is another Alexander's—and a very different one," says Eric.
The road which for twelve miles leads directly up the valley of the
Swannanoa, is
uniformly good. We ford the river several times, and see it in all phases
of its capricious loveliness, and with every possible background—now level
farm-lands and purple hills, then a beautiful pass dark with overhanging
shade, again a picturesque mill with the water flashing over its dam in a
sheet of silver, or mountains rising behind mountains with patches of
shadow on their deep gorges and wooded sides. Through nil these varying
scenes the river takes its way with sweet impetuosity, swirling in rapids,
flowing still and deep between its banks, or rippling gaily over stony
shallows.
" ' Swannanoa I well they named the
In the mellow Indian tongue,
"Beautiful" thon art most truly.
And right worthy to be sung,'"
says Mr. Lanier, who has found this verse on the back of a photograph.
" It is tame here, compared to what it is as it comes down the Black
Mountain," says Eric. "Some glens on the stream there I have never seen
surpassed for wildness and beauty."
"Shall we see them? "asks Mrs. Cardi.
" If you like, and if you are not afraid of rattlesnakes, which abound in
such places, Our course lies directly to the head-waters of the river."
" Great place for trout-fishing, isn't it? " asks Mr. Lanier.
" Splendid place," responds Eric. " You would suspect me of exaggeration
if I were to say how many speckled trout I have caught there in a day."
"Oh, how delightful 1" cries Mrs. Corrigan. "May I catch some, too,
please? I am devoted to fishing."
Both gentlemen laugh at this.
" Are you prepared to go into the stream and wade ? " they ask. " That is
the way to fish for mountain-trout. The growth along the banks is so dense
that no other mode an-
" If you had given me warning, I should have brought a wading-couture
along," she Says; "but at present I am not provided for any thing of that
kind."
On we go, bowling lightly and easily over the road along which the heavy
stage jolts and bumps.
" This is the perfection of traveling!" cries Mrs. Cardigan.
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The spirited horses, which are the pride and delight of Eric's heart, do
not need a touch of the whip as they move forward in that long, swinging
trot which seems pleasure instead of labor to thoroughbreds. All around US
lies the brightness of the mellow day, and the varied glory of the
mountain-landscape. Gratis hills stand bathed in sunshine or dappled with
shade, while at their feet are coves in which the bro^id, low farm-houses
stand, with gunny meadows and fields of waving corn.
At noon we reach Alexander's, where we stop for dinner, and rest two or
three hours during the heat of the day.
" There is no need of haste in setting to Patton's," says Eric, with a
shrug. "You will have quite enough of it, for we can't ascend the mountain
until to-morrow."
This seems to us a provoking delay, but we are too well drilled to think
of murmur-
" Eric knows," says Sylvia to Mrs. Cardigan, who is bold enough to express
some disapproval. " He has spent every summer since he was a boy in this
country, and he is so enamored of it that I think he will end by living
here altogether."
has little heat in its soft glory. After leaving Alexander's, we turn
abruptly from the stage-road straight toward the dark mountains that stand
like giants before us. As we advance, these great heights, which make
others seem like pigmy hills, enclose us on all sides, wearing every tint
of dark purple and blue. Their majestic loneliness, their wild grandeur,
strike one with a sense of absolute awe. We look at them, in the
everlasting fixity of their repose, and realize—;is perhaps it has never
chanced to us to realize before—the brevity and insignificance of our
existence.
" I don't wonder that mountaineers, as a rule, are melancholy," Bays
Sylvia, who is riding behind the phaeton. "If I lived always in the shadow
of these mountains, I should feel their solemnity in every act of my life;
I should never be able to throw it off."
"You think so because you never .have lived in their shadow," says Eric. "
If you did, you would soon discover that their solemnity, which strikes
you so much now, would affect you very little."
We can cot com pass in oar speech,'"
she says, in a low voice, looking at the splendid masses as they tower
against the sky, wrapped in eternal silence and motionless calm.
As we penetrate deeper into the mountains, our road leads up a narrow
valley, along which a stream—clearer than crystal, if such a thing can
be—takes its course, and crosses our road again and again.
"It is Swannanoa Creek," Eric answers ;
from the Black."
The sun has dropped behind the hills that hem is in, and a few broken
masses of gorgeous clouds are floating above the dark-blue peaks of
Craggy, when we reach the house where we are to spend the night—Patton's,
at the foot of the mountain. It is a rough place, poorly kept—hotels for
tourists have not yet risen in these fastnesses—but the people, here as
elsewhere, are civil, obliging, and ready to give us their best. Mrs.
Cardigan grimaces a little over the room into which we are ushered; but it
has at least the merit of cleanliness, which Sylvia points out.
"Will you want supper?" asks a gaunt woman, coming to the door while we
are shaking off the dust of travel.
We reply emphatically that we will want supper, and probably manifest a
little surprise at the question, for she goes on to ex-plain it.
"I see yon have your own pervasions," she says, "and I thought you might
mean to make your supper offend 'em. Some folks does."
" That is the reason why some folks nearly starve on the top of the
mountain," says Sylvia, with the air of one who knows alt about such
matters. " We don't moan to touch those provisions until we are on the
highest peak of the Black."
" Here is something that we can touch, however," says Mrs. Cardigan,
opening a basket of grapes, " and now let us go out for
The entire sky is flushed with a radiance which shows that the bidden
sunset must be of unusual glory, when we leave the house, and, crossing
the neglected yard, take our way to the stream that sings over its rock?
not more than twenty yards distant. We enter a forest-road arched with
shade, but, although we are not more than two steps front.
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the creek, we can only obtain glimpses of its flushing beauty, so dense is
the growth along its banks. At length we hear such a tumult of falling
water, that we feel sure something specially worth seeing is hidden from
our sight, and, nerved to desperation, plunge recklessly into the thicket.
Only Mrs. Cardiyan holds back and suggests snakes—but Sylvia laughs.
" You are quite as likely to meet a snake where you are as here," she
says. "You can't possibly guard against them, so the
best thing to do is to £o where you like without thinking of them."
Encouraged by this philosophical view of things, Mrs. Cardigan follows,
and we find ourselves in one of those glens of which He has spoken. Large
boulders strew the channel of the stream, over and around which, in
foaming rapids and cascades, the limpid water frets and whirls. A
wilderness of ivy and rhododendron, interspersed with tapering pines and
stately firs, makes a wall of green along the banks, and, as we spring
from rock to rock until we find ourselves in the middle of the current, we
agree that, for
with and romantic loveliness, we have scarcely seen this surpassed.
"Is it not strange," says Sylvia, "that the higher one goes in these
mountains, the more luxuriant the forest-growth becomes? Look at that
hill-side! It is like a tropical jungle."
" Oh, to be here when the rhododendron is in bloom!" cries Mrs. Cardigan,
clasping her hands ; and indeed everywhere that one turns, the broad,
polished leaves of this " victor-wreath" of the mountains meets the
glance.
We sit on the rocks, enthroned like mermaids, with the brawling stream
around us, the rich, green hill-side towering in front, the absolute
solitude of virgin Nature in every sight and sound. We do not observe that
the sunset radiance fades from the patch of sky immediately over our
heads, and the soft gray tints of twilight begin to steal, over the scene,
until steps and voices on the hidden road rouse us to a realization that
our companions are in search of us.
"Hush! not a word!" whispers Mrs. Cardigan. " Let us see if they can find
us."
" Here !" says Eric's voice. " Don't you see that they have broken through
here? We'll find them out in the stream there."
" I see some figures—dryads and naiads, perhaps—on the rocks," says
Charley, forcing his way through the dense chaparral of ivy and laurel.
The dryads and naiads answer with a laugh.
"Here is an excellent place if you would like another plunge-butt,
Charley," I say, pointing to a crystal pool just below the rock on which I
am seated.
" I wonder you ladies were not afraid of snakes," remarks Mr. Lauier,
glancing round apprehensively as he makes his appearance through the
bushes and over the trailing vines.
When we stroll slowly back, the cool, clear dusk has lulls. On our right
the mighty peaks of the Black stand dark against the sky; immediately in
front are the fantastic outlines of Craggy; overhead the moon is shining
from a deep-blue sky, and the air has a freshness that is suggestive of
frost.
"What a different atmosphere from that of Asheville!" says Sylvia; " and
if it is so cool here to-night, what will it be on the mountain to-morrow
night ? "
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" Cold enough to need alt your wraps— and more besides," answers Eric.
We find a fire very pleasant when we return to the house. We gather round
it after supper, and, with no other light than the ruddy, flickering
blaze, talk until late bedtime. Eric and Charley try each to "top" the
other's stories of adventures, and, if they do not succeed in this, they
at least interest and amuse their audience, while Rupert sits by drinking
in every detail with absorbed attention.
" What a feast is in store for you ! " says Eric, suddenly laying his hand
on the boy's shoulder. "I luckily encountered an old acquaintance of mine
this afternoon, who will be our guide to-morrow. His name is Dan Burnet,
and he is one of the most famous hunters of this region. He will tell you
bear-stories by the dozen."
"He shall tell them around the camp-fire to-morrow night," says Mrs.
Cardigan, " How delightful and picturesque! "
"Since I have had no adventures with
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
which the present party are not familiar, I inhale make a diversion in the
order of entertainment, and tell a ghost-story," says Sylvia.—"Attention,
Rupert! I know you are almost as fond of ghosts as of bears."
We can all follow this lead, so half a dozen indifferent ghost-stories are
told, and provoke more laughter than terror. Then we say good-night, and
separate. We find
the
atmosphere of
large, un
chamber very chilly, but Sylvia stoutly declines to stop up a broken
window-pane.
" We had better accustom ourselves to the climate," blie says. " To-morrow
night we shall be much colder, without any window-panes at all."
The house has been given up to our occupation — the family retiring to a
smaller one across the yard — and the lights are rely out and things grown
quiet, before
a strange noise (apparently by tin shuffling of many feet) is heard on the
piazza upon which our door opens.
" What is that?" asks Mrs. Cardigan.
" Ghosts, perhaps—or bandits," answers Sylvia.
" Bears," I suggest. " This is a bear-
heard that bears invaded
houses—in platoons, too," says Mrs. Cardigan. "Listen! the noise is
immediately by our door. Upon my word, I don't like this ! If the door was
locked it would be a different matter; but to have nothing but a chair
between us and—and we don't know what 1"
"It is certainly dreadful," says Sylvia, with a laugh in her voice. "It is
queer. Somebody, or several some bodies, seem to be pulling something
down. I tell you what" —a light spring to the floor — "I can see
moonlight, you know."
Her bare feet trip noiselessly across the room, she pulls the curtain back
from the window, looks cautiously out, and then bursts into a laugh.
" Hounds," she says. " There are several of them, and they are doing their
best to get into our provisions."
"Hounds!" repeats Mrs. Cardigan, and she, too, springs to the floor. "
Drive them away, for mercy's sake! If they devour our provisions, we shall
have to go back to Asheville."
The window is raised forthwith, and two
voices in energetic chorus bid the hounds de part — which they do
immediately. Then having routed the enemy, they are about to return to
bed, when I suggest that it will be inconvenient to repeat this
performance all night.
"You have repelled one attack," I says
minutes. Don't you think it might be well to bring the provisions in ? "
"Impossible," says Mrs. Cardigan; "it would be an hour's work. Mr. Markham
has provisions for a regiment there."
"We had better bring them in," says Sylvia. " As Alice says, it will never
answer to leave them there, unless we appoint a watchman."
" It was shamefully careless of the boys to leave them," I say—from the
force of old habit we still speak of Eric and Charley as " the boys." "
They ought to be waked, to take them in."
" But who is to wake them ? " asks Mrs. Cardigan.
1 " They sleep like the seven sleepers," says Sylvia. " We might thump on
their door for an hour without rousing them. Coeur, let us do it
ourselves."
So we do it ourselves. Perhaps the hounds, if they have any sense of hum
a distinct too hungry, enjoy the scene fro
the
spectral, white-robed figures engaged in conveying into safe quarters
various baskets and packages of edibles.
" There," says Sylvia, when we bring the last within the door, which is
fastened again with a chair; " now we will let those careful gentlemen
wonder where their provisions are to-morrow morning."
This kindly intention is carried into effect. We are wakened early by a
thump at our door, and Rupert's voice shouts, "Time to be up !" Then this
young gentleman proceeds to the end of the piazza where a tin basin is
placed for the use of the public. Hardly a minute elapses before we hear
an exclamation. "Thunder 1" he says. "Brother Eric, O Brother Eric, where
are the provisions.
"Who out o vigil?" asks Eric, coming the piazza. "Did you ask about the
provisions? Why, where are they? Did anybody take them into the house last
night ?—Charley, did you ? "
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
"No, sir, I didn't," says Harrison, appearing on the scene; "but there's
hounds iiere, and they may have carried 'em off."
" By Jove !" says another voice—the dismayed voice of Mr. Lanier. "But
hounds would have devoured tbe> food where they found it."
" It's all gone, anyway," says Rupert. " Harrison, look about. The baskets
must be somewhere, I know they were left here, for I saw them just before
I went to bed."
"And might have thought of bringing them in," says Eric.
"We ought to tell them — really we ought!" says Sylvia, with a laugh.
" Don't do any thing of the kind," says Mrs. Cardigan. "Let them look and
wonder."
We hear a great deal of searching, and
George !" " What the deuce could have gone with the things?" and preserve,
I regret to state, a profound silence, until there comes another thump on
our door.
" I say "—it is Rupert's voice again—" do you happen to have the
provisions in there ?'
"The provisions!" answers Sylvia, in a tone of innocent surprise. " Pray,
what should we be doing with the provisions ? "
" Well, they have disappeared—" Rupert begins, when I interpose with the
truth.
"They are here, Rupurt," I say. "We brought them in last night to keep
them from the dogs. But you deserve to have had them eaten, for your
carelessness."
we hear Rupert report a minute later, "and we owe them a good turn for not
saying a word all this time."
There is so much preparation necessary for our departure that it is some
time after breakfast before we start. About eight o'clock the guide
arrives—a stalwart, broad-shouldered man of thirty-six or fight, with a
the soldier as well as the hunter in his appearance.
" What a study for a picture!" says Sylvia. " What a thorough type of the
mountaineer! If he only " Like a brigand
dean hat,
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS;
Charley. " What ideas women have, to be
sure ! Why, if you looked at it from the right point of view, that old
felt is aa-much more picturesque as it is more comfortable."
" I suppose you flatter yourself that yours is picturesque," she says.
" Not quite so much so as Lanier's English hat, perhaps, but sufficiently
so for my last.—Hallo, Bummed!—which is the pack-hot ae ? "
"This one," answers Mr. Burnet. He had brought with him three horses and a
mule. One is led up to the piazza and loaded with a number of shawls,
several quilts— which Eric insists upon borrowing from Mrs. Patton—and the
provisions, which hare been packed pell-mell into an enormous bag.
Sidesaddles are placed on the others, and loud are Sylvia's remonstrance
when she finds she is not to be~ allowed to ride Bounibelle.
" I can't permit you to put your neck in jeopardy by riding a horse not
accustomed to climbing," says Eric, authoritatively. " These animals have
been reared on the mountains, and are us sure-footed as goats." . " They
are quite as ugly," remarks the young lady, ungratefully. Then she glances
from their tall, raw-boned proportions to the small, round mule which
stands by, composedly switching its tail. "If I can't ride Bonnibelle, I
will ride that," she says.
" A very good choice," observes Mr. Lanier. " Mules are not handsome, but
they are better on mountains — because more sure-fooled—than horses."
" They are only slightly inclined to prefer their own way," says Charley,
"and two of a trade never agree."
Sylvia does not condescend to notice this remark. She mounts the
mule—disregarding the laughter which we cannot restrain— mid announces
that she is ready. Mrs. Cardigan and myself are elevated on the tall
mountain-steeds; the gentlemen mount the lowland horses, on which they do
not hesitate to risk their necks; the guide, with his axe on his shoulder,
leads the pack-horse in front—and so we start.
CHAPTER XI.
" Ferny pastures, beetling reef. Slopes half-islanded by streams, Gliate D
in the amber gleams Of the sunshine—gleam that mock Shadowed field and
cool gray rock.
"Farther up the sobbing pines
Hold their uncontested sway,
Shutting out the smiling day
With their solemn, serried lines,
—Mournful, melancholy-pines I"
THE sun is shining brightly, and his go Men lances light up the depths of
the forest into which- we enter—an enchanted world of far-reach in j;
greenness^ the stillness of which is only broken by the voice of the
stream which come down the gorges of the mountain in leaping cascades. Few
things are more picturesque than the appearance of a cavalcade like ours
following in single file the winding path-(not. road) that leads into the
marvelous, mysterious wilderness. When the ascent fairly begins-, the path
is often like the letter Sir and one commands a view of the entire line —
of hoi-semen in slouched hats and gray coats, of hides in a variety of
attire,- with water-proof cloaks- serving as riding-skirts, and hats
garlanded with forest wreaths and grasses. The guide- tramps steadily
ahead, leading the pack-horse, and we catch a glimpse of his face now and
then as he turns to answer some of the numerous questions addressed to
him.
"O Mr. Burnet,!' cries Sylvia, "shall we a- bear ? "
'"Taint's very likely," answers Mr. Burnet, glancing round with a smile,
"but you'll see the tracks of one or two, perhaps. That'll 'beatfer than,
nothin', won't it ? "
"Very much better than nothing; but I want desperately to see a bear
itself."
"I kin show you a bear-trap after he, without takin' you very fur from the
road," says the hunter.
"Do you catch bears in traps?" asks-Sylvia. " Tell me all about it."
It is to be supposed that Mr. Burnet complies with this request—at least
we hear his voice mingling with Sylvia's blithe tones us the cortege winds
deeper and deeper into the still, beautiful forest. Sylvia's male, as soon
as we start, declines on any account to remain in the rear of the party—or
indeed anywhere but in the front rank, next the {tack-horse. On such an
expedition as this
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
people laugh at things that seem very trivial in repetition, and we make
the echoes ring with out-mirth as his small but determined animal pushes
resolutely by every one else, and carries its protesting rider to the van.
" I have heard of the obstinacy of mules," she says, tugging fruitlessly
at the rein, " but I never realized before what it is ! I
" I wish I had a sketch of you, Sylvia ! "
Rupert, between his fits of laughter.
"By George! you are a comical sight — you
and your mule."
"You are very ill-bred," says Sylvia, "and I am going to devote myself to
Mr. Burnet"
The own is very gradual and very slew
f the obstinacy of n
can make no impression whatever on this creature. He goes exactly where he
lilies, without the slightest regard to my wishes. Sure-footed? Yes—he
picks the best footing, with profound indifference as to whether [ am
scraped against trees, or pulled off by
mouth got no feeling ? Tm sure I have pulled on this bit till my arm
ache."
We are mounting all the time, but the zigzag path spares us any thing very
much on the perpendicular order. Now and then we feel inclined to cling to
the manes of our horses as we feel the paddles slipping backward at some
steep ascent — but on the whole the terrible accounts that we have heard
of the way are by no means verified. " We wind up the side of the mountain
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
'ike this for several miles," says Eric, "then we travel along a ridge for
some distance, and finally we ascend the peak formerly called the Black
Dome, DOW Mount Mitchell. The whole distance is about twelve miles, and
the most of it is steady climbing. We shall not reach the Dome until three
o'clock at earliest."
"And shall we have nothing to eat until then ? " asks Rupert, dismayed.
"Nothing," is the disheartening answer.
"What a big mountain this must be!" says Mrs. Cardigan.
" It is about twenty miles long," answers Erie, " and contains at least a
hundred thousand acres of as dense wilderness as is to be found out of the
tropical belt. When we reach Mount Mitchell we shall be in the centre of a
region of unbroken forest, without house or road in any direction—except
this path and a few trails known only to the hunters — for a radius of ten
or twelve
" And it was in this wilderness that Professor Mitchell lost his life
sixteen or seventeen years ago, was it not ? " I ask.
" Yes. Burnet was one of the men engaged in the search for him. He will
tell you nil about it. At least five hundred men were in the party, and
they searched for days before at last the professor was found— drowsier it
a mountain-torrent."
Higher and higher we mount—the horses straining steadily upward with few
pauses. The forest around us becomes wilder, greener, more luxuriant, with
every step. When we wonder at this, Eric bids us observe the rich, black
loam which composes the soil. Such gigantic trees as grow here cannot be
matched, I am sure, out of California. The chestnuts, especially, exceed
in girth and height any thing we have ever seen. Other trees correspond in
size, and the dense undergrowth makes a sea of impenetrable verdure in
every direction.
Presently, however, the aspect of our surroundings changes. We leave this
varied forest behind, and enter the region of the balsam, from the dark
color of which the mountain takes its name. Above a certain line of
elevation no trees are found save these beautiful yet somber firs. They
grow to an immense height, and stand so timidly together
than a cat can thread its way among their
stems. Overhead the boughs interlock in a canopy, making perpetual shade
beneath. No shrubs of any kind are to be found here— only beds of thick,
elastic moss, richer than the richest velvet, and ferns in plumy
profusion. Putting aside every tiling else, it is worth ascending the
Black Mountain to see these musses and ferns. Description can give no idea
of their beauty. As lovely ferns may perhaps be found elsewhere—though
this is doubtful, since the rich soil, the perpetual moisture, and
perpetual shade, foster their growth to the highest possible degree —but
one never sees out of the balsam-for ashes the peculiar moss which is
their glory It is almost rank in its richness; it is more vivid than
emerald in its greenness; and there is a delicate grace about it which no
other moss possesses. It is more like a. fairy forest of miniature
palm-leaves than any thing else to which one can liken it.
"What is this?" we ask, as our horses struggle up a Steep ascent, and
pause on a small plateau, where a double house of balsam-logs stands. All
planking, every thing which made the house habitable, is gone, but the
stout logs remain firmly fixed together, and look as if they might defy
the hand of Time. "Are we on the summit? "
" On the summit! " Eric laughs. " This is only the Mountain House, the
summer residence, formerly, of Mr. William Pulton, who owned the mountain.
You are five thousand four hundred and sixty feet above sea-level,
however, and have a most extensive view."
We turn—so dense has been the forest through which we ascended that this
is our first glimpse of what we have gained—and see the world unrolled
like a map below us, with mountain-ranges in azure billows spreading to
the farthest verge of the infinitely distant horizon. It is a picture
which almost takes away our breath, and dwarfs into insignificance all
else that we have seen. What are the hills and rocks on which we have
hitherto stood to this grand mountain-height, with the boundless territory
which it overlooks? Eric points out the sweeping lines
side this Eden of the sky, as they trend southward to South Carolina and
Georgia, and the innumerable transverse ranges and spurs that cover the
face of the country. Tar, misty, ocean-Hke, the magnificent expanse
spreads.
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
looking like a celestial country instead of a common work-day world.
We could linger here for hours, but are
into the dark shade of the dense balsams. The put is no more than a trail,
which an eye inexperienced in woodcraft could not detect, and the way
grows more and more steep. One moment the horses slip on the rocks up
which they clamber; the next instant they sink above their fetlocks in
black mud; there is barely room for their passage through the
close-growing trees; and every few minutes a cry runs along the line,
"Look out for your heads!" and we bend down on their necks to escape being
scraped off by some leaning tree or low bough. In every direction
stretches the somber, impenetrable forest, and the only things which break
the monotony of its gloom are masses of rock piled together in strange,
fantastic shapes, and covered with moss and ferns.
Two miles of this steep climbing brings us to the summit of the undulating
ridge along which our way lies for several miles farther. The funereal
branches of the balsam still overshadow us, but now and then we emerge
from this canopy of shade into small, open spaces, lovely enough for a
fairy court. Short, green grass flourishes, one or two graceful, hardy
trees make a pleasant contrast to the somber firs, and flat rocks here and
there seem provided specially for seats. We would willingly pause in these
charming spots, but our guide calls no halt. He seems insensible to
fatigue as he presses steadily onward with his long strides, and we are
forced to follow, since this mountain wilderness, abounding in precipices
and pitfalls, would be an unfavorable place in which to indulge a fancy
for straggling. Twice hi; points out bear-tracks crossing oar path, and
once he turns aside from the path to show Sylvia the promised bear-trap—a
stout erection of large logs.
"When you find a bear in a place like this," she says, regarding it
gravely from the height of her mule," what do you do to him ? "
" Shoots him, generally," answers Mr. Rupert, with a broad smile.
" And you call that hunting!" she says, scornfully. " Why, I should think
you would feel like a coward to come and shoot a pour trapped animal."
" Looking at the matter in that light, ail hunting is cowardly," says
Eric. " Bu( if the bear had been stealing your hogs for several mouths you
would probably be willing to shoot him when you found him in a trap. —Lead
on, Dan. I am growing—to put it moderately—rather hungry."
Dan leads on, and presently we emerge on the largest and most beautiful of
the little prairies through*which we have passed. This stretch of open
ground lies at the foot of the highest peak, the abrupt sides of which
rise in conical shape before us. It is here, Mr. Burnet tells us, that the
mountaineers who were searching for Professor Mitchell found the first
trace of the way he had taken.
" We had been starchier' from Friday to Tuesday," he says, " and on
Tuesday we was pretty nigh disheartened, when Wilson—an old hunter from
over in Yancey—said lie hadn't no doubt the professor had tried 10 go down
to Caney Valley by a trail they two had followed thirteen years afore, and
which leads that way"—he points down into the dark wilds below us. « Well,
we looked along the edge of this here prairie till we found a track.
Wilson was right—he Afar tried to go down to Caney Valley. We followed his
trail for about four miles, and I
« He had lost his way," says Eric. " I have seen the spot—they call it
Mitchell's Falls now—where he died. A stream of considerable size plunges
over a precipice of about forty feet into a basin fourteen feet lie by as
many wide. Into this he fell-probably at night."
" But how was it possible to bring a dead body up these steeps! " Sylvia
says, addressing Mr. Burnet.
" We brought it in a sheet slung to the top of stout poles," he answers.
"Then it were carried down to Asheville, and then brought up again and
buried there"—he nods to the peak above us.
" In the warmth of heir great friendship and admiration, people thought
that he ought to rest in the midst of the scenes he had explored so
fearlessly and loved so well," says
We are all silent. This shadow of death seems to obscure something of the
beauty of the wide prospect. We have paused, attracted not only by the
gentle loveliness of the spot, but by the magnificence of the far
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
Breaching view. Immediately in front of us sweeps eastwardly the great
range of Craggy, its spurs shutting off Asheville from our view-Beyond,
Fiscal lifts Its crest, with its surrounding mountains, while behind
these range after range melts into illimitable distance, and more than
half the counties of the western, part of the State lie spread before in.
Eric takes his cherished companion—a large field-glass—from its case, and
brings it to a proper focus, then he hands it to me.
"Look," he says, "at that cloud-like table-land lying near the South
Carolina tine-do you see what I mean ? That is the upper valley of the
French Broad in Transylvania, and it is nearly on a level with the summit
of the Blue Ridge."
The glass passes from hand to hand, for we all alight here, since the rest
of the ascent can best be made on foot. The saddles are taken from the
horses, and, they are turned loose to graze until morning,
"Suppose they should run away? "suggests Mr. Lanier, a lifted aghast at
this proceeding; but our guide only laughs.
"They'll not run for," he says.
" If they did, we should have to walk down the mountain," says Sylvia, "
That would be capital fun !"
"'Fun which I had rather be spared," says Mrs. Cardigan, taking off her
water-proof, which has served as a riding-skirt, and throwing it over her
arm.
Only the pack-horse is led to the summit of the peak. We follow, glad to
be spared the ascent of the steep and rocky way on horseback. The climbing
is laborious, but fortunately short. Before long we gain the top, and the
first object on which, our eyes
Here the friends of the dead professor laid him down, to await the
resurrection morning. At his feet the pines sigh their mournful requiem,
and the majestic glory of that Nature to which he was so devoted lies
spread around. With this loftiest peak of the great Appalachian chain Ids
name is linked effectually. The dome is not likely to be called by any
other name than "Mount Mitchell" so long as the first sight which greets
those who ascend it is Mitchell's grave.
Beside the grave, the summit is entirely bare. A few yards down its sides
the balsam-growih begins; but the firs are stunted, and round the crest of
the knob half at legist
of them are dead and look like white specters of trees. A small cabin
stood here a year or two ago, but is now burned down— only its chimney
remaining.
"Where is the cave? I don't see any cave," says Mrs. Cardigan, looking
blankly round as we seat ourselves in an exhausted condition on the
scattered rocks that abound.
"The cave is about fifty yards down the side of the peak,'! says Eric.
"Burnet has taken the pack-horse there to unload. As soon as you are
rested sufficiently, we had better follow. We can take dinner, and that
return here for the view."
Does any one wonder that we rise with alacrity at the sound of that magic
word
mountain-ascent of six hours in an atmosphere that sharpens the appetite
to that positive hunger which in ordinary life we so seldom feel.
Down a path on the other side of the peak we go, and, about fifty yards
from the summit, are led to a large rock, one side of which shelves inward
to the depth of ten or twenty feet, forming an excellent shelter.
" This was the royal residence of the king of the bears in the good old
times when there were no men on these mountains," says Rupert, as we
approach. (He is on his knees, assisting Harrison to unpack the
provision!.)
" It serves admirably for bears, but is rather low for people."
"For giants like yourself, very Hovel,"
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"THE LAND OP THE SKY;" OR,
says Sylvia. "I can stand upright .n it, quite far back, very
comfortably—see!"
"And when one sits down it is admirable," says Mrs. Cardigan, suiting the
action to the word, and sitting down on a shawl which Mr. Lanier has
spread for her.
" Here is a natural cupboard," I say, examining a ledge of rocks that juts
out on one side.
"I doubt whether we shall leave any thing to go into it," says Charley. "I
am famished!"
"Spread the table quicker, Harrison!" cries Sylvia.—" Eric, carve the ham
while I cut some bread."
The table is spread—to wit, a miscellaneous collection of 'eatables are
placed on a piece of black oil-cloth—and dinner begins. For some time no
other remarks are heard than those which are strictly necessary. Requests
are made for bread-and-butter, for another piece of ham or chicken, for
pickles or sardines; beyond this, little is said until we look at each
other and laugh. By this time the feast is drawing to its close. Canned
fruits, cakes, and jelly, are on the table; Charley is opening a bottle of
wine.
"Fate cannot harm us, we have dined today," says Sylvia. "Oh, were you
ever so hungry before? I only hope we have left enough for breakfast: we
cannot afford to eat any supper."
"Can't we?" says Rupert, looking dismayed. ."Why, I think there's a plenty
left. We'll have some coffee, at any rate. As soon as Burnet comes back—he
has taken the pack-horse down to the others—we are going to make a fire."
" If the wind should be in the wrong direction, we shall suffer dreadfully
from the smoke," says Mr. Lanier, looking at the great pile of charred
logs immediately in front of our rock-house—remnants of the fire of some
other party.
"Better suffer from smoke than from cold," says Eric. " You'll be glad of
the fire when night falls ; and, in order that you may
enough to last till morning."
" Cut wood!" repeats Mr. Lanier, with a gasp. He has plainly not
anticipated any thing like this. "You mean that Harrison and the guide
will cut it?"
"I mean that it will require several axes to cut as much as we shall
need," answers
Eric. "The balsam-wood will not burn in
Mr. Lanier does not volunteer to takedown of these axes; he looks, on the
contrary, greatly disgusted.
"And you call this a plea sure- excurse
"A pleasure exertion it might better be defined—don't you think so ? "
asks Mrs. Cardigan, laughing.
" I wondered why you were bringing asps along," says Sylvia, turning to
Charley ; " and this is what it was for?"
" This is what it was for," he answers, " Now—since we are in a gypsy
camp—may I ask leave to light a cigar? 'Wiles Juno ruffles thee, 0
Jupiter, try the weed '—and, according to my experience, Juno is pretty
sure to ruffle one sooner or hither; therefore, it is well to be provided
with a weed."
" After that, you don't deserve permission to light it," she says, " but I
suppose we can't refuse you the privilege which we are willing to grant
the others."
At this, cigars are lighted, and, when the bottle of wine has been
emptied, we take our way back to the summit.
There the full glory of all that we have come to see bursts upon us. How
can one write of it?—how give the faintest idea of the beauty which lies
below us on this September day?—how describe the sublimated fairness of
the day itself in the rarefied air of this high peak?
"I have never obtained so good a view before!" says Erie. " There are not
a dozen days in the year when one can obtain such a view from this
mountain."
"What delightful luck that we should have hit one of the dozen I" says
Mrs., Cardigan, " Don't you feel as if you overlooked the whole world, and
the kingdoms thereof? 0 Mr. Markham, dear Mr. Markham, tell us what every
thing is!"
Dear Mr. Markham proceeds to comply with this moderate request, while
Sylvia mounts the chimney, and stands there—field-glass in hand—sweeping
the horizon, as he indicates one object after another. Charley sits on the
chimney at her feet, swinging his legs meditatively and smoking; Mrs.
Cardigan, in her enthusiasm, takes Mr. Lanier's
The Hew is so immense that one is forced to regard it in sections. Far to
the revile
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east lies Virginia, from which the long waving Hue of the Blue .Ridge
comes, and passes directly under the Black, making a point of
succession of cone-like peaks, and, as it keeps round eastwardly, it
divides into two great branches — one of which terminates
junction, near which it towers into the steep | in the height on which
Pinnacle and stately ay beard— so called from the white beard which it
wears when a frozen cloud has iced its rhododendrons. From our greater
eminence we overlook the
Blue Ridge
e the country be-
low spreading into azure distance, with white spots which resolve
themselves through the glass into villages, and mountains clearly defined.
The Levine range—through which the Linville River forces its way in a
gorge of wonderful grandeur—is-in full view, with a misty cloud lying on
the surface of Table Rock, while the peculiar form of the Hawk's Bill
stands forth in marked relief. Beyond, blue and limitless as the ocean,
the undulating plain of the more level country extends until it melts into
the sky.
As the glance leaves this view, and, sweeping back over the Blue Ridge,
follows the main ledge of the Black, one begins to appreciate the
magnitude of this great mount. For miles along its dark crest appear
Beyond these Unaka, run
i stand, while spurs lead. off from its base; the other stretches
southward, forming the splendid chain of Craggy. At our feet lie the
elevated counties of Yancey and Mitchell!, with their surface so
that one wonders how men could have been daring enough to think of making
their homes amid such wild scenes.
The richest lands in the mountains are to be found in those counties,"
says Eric, when we remark something like this :
"Look at the farms— they scarcely seem more than gardens from our point of
view— dotted all over the valleys and rolling libellants, and even on the
mountain -sides. Yet Burnsville, the county-seat, is six hundred feet
higher than Asheville." unties stretches the chaining along the line of'
Tennessee, with the Roan Mountain—famous for extensive view over seven
States—immediately in our front. Through the passes and rugged chasms of
this range, we look across the entire valley of East Tennessee to where
the blue outlines of the Cumberland Mountains trend toward Kentucky, and
we see distinctly a marked depression which Eric says is Cumberland Gap.
Turning our gaze due westward, the view is, if possible, still more grand.
There the colossal masses of the Great Smoky stand, draped in a mantle of
clouds, while through Haywood and Transylvania, to the borders of South
Carolina, rise the peaks of the Balsam Mountains, behind which are the
Cullowhee and the Natahala, with the Blue Ridge making a majestic curve
toward the point where Georgia touches the Carolinas.
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LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
Eric—" for such a view is bewildering in it? magnitude — you must remember
that this elevated country called Western North Carolina is two hundred
and fifty miles long, with a breadth varying from thirty to sixty miles,
and that you overlook all this—with much more besides,"
" With very much more besides," says Charley, "especially in the matter of
width. Cumberland Gap is fully a hundred miles away, and the view on the
other side of the Blue Ridge is even more extensive."
" You are right—it is bewildering," says Sylvia, dropping the glass, and
it is folly to think of seeing such a view in one day or two days. We
should remain here for a week at least."
" In that case we'd have to send for more provisions," says Rupert's voice
from the rear.
Then Eric rouses with a start to the consciousness that, while the sun is
sloping westward, and the shadows are lengthening over all the marvelous
scene, a supply of wood for the night has not been cut. The axes of the
guide and Harrison are ringing down among the balsam-trees, but he is too
experienced a mountaineer to trust entirely to their efforts,
" Come, Rupert," he says, " a little exercise will do you no
harm.—Charley, if we need recruits, I'll call your."
" Very good," says Charley, with resignation.
Deserted thus by our instructor, we cease to ask the names of the
mountain-ranges or towering peaks. It is enough lo sit and watch the
inexpressible beauty of the vast prospect as afternoon slowly wanes into
evening. There is a sense of isolation, of solemnity and majesty, in the
scene which none of us are likely to forget. So high are we elevated above
the world, that the pure vault of ether over our heads seems nearer to us
than the blue rolling earth, with its wooded hills and smiling valleys
below. No sound conies up to us, no voice of water or note of bird breaks
the stillness. We are in the region of that eternal silence which wraps
the summits of the " everlasting hills." A repose that is full of awe
broods over this lofty peak, which still retains the last rays of the
sinking Sun, while over the loiter world twilight has fallen.
CHAPTER XII.
take a great gray sheet of canvas, Shrouding all things in its cover, Did
it float 'twixt earth and heaven."
TWILIGHT is brief on the summit of the Black. A hundred miles or more away
—behind the far peaks and passes of the
a bed of glory, and the last rim of his disk has scarcely disappeared
before a soft mantle of darkness falls over us. Then we remember that
there is a full moon, and we turn toward the east. Yes, she is coming
There is a glow along the horizon, out of which a. yellow shoulder
presently appears, and, before the crimson, light has faded out of the
distant west, the " silver sister-world " has mounted into the blue depths
of the eastern sky, and her light streams on the deep chasms and high
peaks of the great mountain, with its dark plumage of firs.
Wrapped closely in heavy shawls —for the air is sharply cold—we sit and
watch this beauty deepen as dusk gives place to night. Over the immense
expanse spread below—from Virginia to Georgia, from Tennessee to South
Carolina—a white glamour lies, showing the dim outlines of countless
mountains, the dark shadows of unnumbered valleys, and deepening to silver
mist where the remote landscape meets the arching sky. Around us this
radiance has almost the brightness of day, so rarefied is the air, while
the mica—which enters largely into the composition of all the rocks and
even of the soil on the surface of the peak—sparkles in the light like
precious stones. So brilliantly white is all around, so dark the firs
sweeping downward below, so far-stretching and mysterious the immeasurably
distant view, that words are hushed on our lips. We are thrilled by the
greatness of the silent scene, by the solemnity of the glorious night. To
be on this lonely mountain-top, uplifted so high above the world, fills us
with a sense of exaltation and awe.
" How still, how vast, how beautiful" says Sylvia, in a low voice. " How
strange to think of the thousands of people scattered below us, going
their accustomed social or domestic ways, while we sit here, midway
between, heaven and earth—alone with the mountains and the moon"
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" And each other," says Mr. Lanier. Pray don't forget that."
" I should like to forget it," she answers, gazing far away over the
broken expanse of distant country with something wistful in the expression
of her face as the moon shines on it. " I should like to be here entirely
alone —for once. It would be something one could never forget."
" I should think not, indeed," says Mrs. Cardigan, with a shudder. " It
would be something to set one crazy with fright. It is the most beautiful
place I have ever seen ; but there is something terrible in its
loneliness. Listen ! What eerie sound is that ? "
" Only the wind sighing among the balsam-trees," answers Charley. " I wish
we could hear the cry of a wild-cat. That does sound eerie when one is in
the woods at night."
" I wish a bear would walk out of those firs," says Sylvia. " Oh, why will
nothing ever happen ? It seems that our journeying are doomed to be
lamentably tame."
" Tame !" repeats Mr. Lanier, in a tone of amazement. " Why, have we not
had storms and floods—"
"Hallo!" —it is Rupert's voice which speaks in the rear—" are you going to
stay here all night? The fire's made, and the coffee's made, and Brother
Eric says, come down to the cave."
" A very good suggestion," says Mr. Lanier, rising promptly. " It is
really exceedingly chilly. A fire will be very welcome."
" Even though one may have to take smoke along with it," says Mir's.
Cardigan, mischievously.
The ideas which Rupert's words have presented are more or less pleasing to
all of us, so we rise and stumble down the steep path which leads to the
cave. A picturesque sight greets us when we come within view of this
shelter. Immediately in front of it an enorlichened face of the rock, the
group of figures within the cave, and the dark forest around. To our
relief, we see that the column of smoke mounts steadily upward, so that we
have no annoyance on this score to dread.
" That supply of fuel must be intended to last during the week you wish to
stay here, Miss Norwood," says Mrs. Cardigan, pointing to the pile of wood
which lies on the far-
their side of the fire—an imposing pile, certainly, of freshly-cut logs.
"And what are these for?" asks Mr. Lanier, pausing to regard a heap of
boughs.
"Those," says Charley, "are the best substitute for mountain heather to be
found in this part of the world, and form an excellent bed.—Well, Eric,
you have succeeded if making the balsam-wood burn for once."
" It burns as well as any other wood if you put enough on," answers Eric.
"And if you keep puttin' on," says the guide, a little dryly.
We declare that it is delightful, and certainly the red heart of the fire
is beautiful when we draw near and seat ourselves in front of it. Harrison
lifts the coffee-pot from the coals on which it is placed, cups are
produced and filled, a paper of sugar is handed round, slices of ham are
broiled on the coals, Sylvia volunteers to toast some bread, but ends by
deputing Rupert to do it under her direction. While we talk and laugh, and
the vivid glare of the fire lights up the gypsy scene, the silver moon
looks serenely down upon us—for our cave faces due east—as if with a large
- minded tolerance for human weakness.
After this we are sufficiently tired to think of rest. Even Sylvia owns
that her eyes are slightly heavy.
" We were waked at such a barbarous hour this morning!" she says, by way
of excuse for this fact.
"And you will be waked at a still more barbarous hour to-morrow morning,
if you want to see the sunrise," says Eric.
" I don't know what the rest may be," says Rupert, yawning, " but I'm dead
tired."
" I am going to the peak for one last look," says Sylvia. " After that I
suppose I must yield to the infirmities of nature, and sleep like a log
while all this beauty is holding the world under a spell of enchantment."
" Are you going to the peak again ?" asks Mrs. Cardigan, addressing me in
a highly - dissuasive tone. " I don't think I shall."
" I don't think I can," I answer. " I have exhausted my power of climbing
for the present. We will go out in front of cave while Eric and Mr. Burnet
prepare out sleeping-apartment,"
" Yes, we can see the moon very well from here, and have the benefit of
the her
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too," says Mrs. Cardigan, stepping from under the shadow of the rock.
I step out also, and am amused to observe how Mr. Lanier hesitates for a
minute, uncertain whether to follow Sylvia, who is mounting the path
leading to the summit of the peak, or to remain with us.
If the former had given one backward glance, his hesitation would have
been short; but she gives none. Whether he comes or not is plainly a
matter on which she does not bestow a thought, as, with Charley's
assistance, she springs lightly up the rock-strewed way. Almost any man in
such a situation
full tide of flirtation; so, feeling myself de trap, I rise and stroll
away.
Eric and Mr. Burnet, assisted by Rupert and Harrison, are making our
couch, an operation which I watch with considerable interest and
amusement. First an oil-cloth is spread, then a number of balsam-twigs are
strewed thickly, and over these quilts and shawls are placed.
" There !" says Eric, turning to me when the last has been laid. " If you
don't call that a good bed, you don't know what a good bed is ! I should
not mind sleeping on it every night."
would be piqued. Mr., Lanier is no exception to the rule. He turns to Mrs.
Cardigan, and remarks that he is too tired for further climbing.
" We will sit down here," he says, pointing to a flat, convenient stone,
"and enjoy the moonlight without fatiguing ourselves."
We sit down, but the moon receives an exceedingly small share of the
attention of my companions. Mrs. Cardigan devotes herself to the
entertainment of Mr. Lanier, Mr. Lanier returns the compliment by devoting
himself to the entertainment of Mrs. Cardigan. In fifteen minutes they are
launched in
" Perhaps that is because you have made it yourself," I say, with a laugh.
" One is apt to think well of one's own handiwork."
But I am constrained to admit, when I try the bed, that it is very
comfortable, the balsam-boughs being in a measure elastic, and their
fresh, spicy odor full of delightful woodland suggestions. I wrap my
water-proof round me, take a satchel for a pillow, curl down, and fall
asleep, while figures are still passing to and fro around the ruddy fire,
and the silver splendor of the night lies beyond.
I am dimly conscious of voices talking, of other figures lying down, and
of quietness presently, only broken now and then by a
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
coffee (apparently between Charley and Rupert
rising to replenish the fire. About midnight I overhear, in a state
between sleeping and waking, the following conversation :
" Hallo, Dan !"—it is Eric's voice which speaks—" what has come over the
night ? Isn't it cloudy?"
" Totally cloudy," answers Dan—he is standing by the fire which he has
just replenished—" the clouds seem to be gatherin pretty thick. We'll be
in the midst of 'em by mornin'"
" Fine prospect for a sunrise," says Eric.
" Capital prospect for sleeping late," remarks Charley, in a somnolent
tone of voice.
I hear no more. I, too, am indifferent to the sunrise, so, shifting my
satchel a little, I drop off to sleep again. Incredible as it may seem to
those who have never tried such quarters, I never rested with a greater
sense of pleasure and refreshment than on this bed
When I wake next a voice is saying, " Time to be up!—half-past four
o'clock/and I open my eyes to see a dark figure standing in front of the
smoldering fire—a figure which I know by the carriage of the shoulders and
head to be Eric—while another figure (that of Mr. Burnet) is bringing wood
from the diminished pile, and all around are the recumbent outlines of the
sleeping party. Far and faint in the east—infinitely distant, it seems—a
pale streak of light lies along the verge of the horizon, and, seeing
this, I rise to a sitting posture.
" Oh, we are going to have a sunrise, after all!" I say.
rally something of that
" Their kind in the morning," says Eric; " and takes place sooner on a
mountain than in the lower world, so you had better rouse your
I proceed at once to shake each of them, while Eric rouses the masculine
sleepers very summarily. There is a little grumbling and much yawning on
the part of the latter; then they rise and gather round the fire, which by
this time is burning brightly. By '.his time, also, the glow in the east
has widened, so we do not pause for any toilet-arrangements, but, pulling
the hoods of our water-proofs over our heads, announce that we are ready.
We climb the pecks in the cold, gray
dawn, with just enough of dun light to show us a mist lying all around.
"Why, there is a fog!" says Mrs. Cardigan.
" A fog ! " repeats Eric. " It is a cloud, which has been hovering over us
since midnight."
" Then we can't see the sunrise" cries a disgusted chorus.
" We may see a very fine sunrise if the clouds continue as at present to
lie below. They have been up around us two or three times, but now the
breeze has blown them off, and we overlook them."
He is right. When we gain the summit, we find a sea of vapor spread below
us, out of which nothing appears but the peak on which we stand, and on
our left the dark dome of Craggy, toward which the moon is sloping. We are
in the midst of a boundless ocean, on the distant limit of which the
sunrise glow is growing brighter.
Of this wonderful glow—which moment waxes greater—it is difficult to write
with-out seeming to verge on rhapsody. For once in our lives we realize
what the daily miracle which we call sunrise is. Along at least half the
circle of the horizon a flushing radiance extends, infinitely varied in
its com-
known to earth, or sea, or sky, which does
of splendor—and many of them are so exquisite that we can only liken them
to the colors of the purest gems. There are sins
of ruby and gold, of amethyst and jacinth. And from the rocky point on
which we stand to this heaven of beauty, nothing intervenes save a vast
expanse of mist, over which the luminous glory falls, gilding with
prismatic radiance its myriad waves.
The most careless of us stand enthralled by the majesty of the
spectacle—forgetful of our appearance, indifferent to the sharp coldness
of the morning air. Even Rupert, with his hands in his pockets and a large
plaid shawl of Sylvia's over his shoulders, gazes in open-eyed wonder and
admiration, while Mr. Burnet—who has probably beheld a thousand sunrises
from mountain-peaks—is roused sufficiently to say, " Now, that's
pretty—ain't it ?"
Suddenly some one exclaims, " Look at the moon!" and we turn abruptly
around
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That luminary is half-obscured by clouds as I it sinks slowly behind
Craggy — and these clouds have caught the eastern glory. The moon herself
is more yellow than silver in the reflected light, and the vapors which
surround her are crimson and rose-color, burnished with gold. The effect
is beyond all description. We scarcely know whether to gaze at the east or
the west, and we turn from one point to another in a kind of enraptured
distraction.
" Well," says Eric, " the person who does not feel that he or she is
repaid for the ascent of the Black by this, need never hope to be repaid
for any exertion. You might come here for a dozen years without witnessing
such a sight again !"
" We are a hundred-fold repaid," says Sylvia. " See ! yonder comes the
sun. How long has his preparation for rising lasted ? "
" An hour," answers Charley, glancing at Ms watch. " It was a quarter to
five when we gained the peak, and the first flush of color lay along the
east; it is a quarter to six now, when the sun appears over the horizon
" What an enchanted hour it has been !" says Sylvia, with a soft sigh. She
stands still, watching with level eyes the refulgent glory, from which the
rest of us turn away our dazzled gaze. Over her fair face, framed in its
dark hood, the kindling sunlight falls, showing the pearly freshness of
her complexion, and touching to gold the light waves of hair around her
brow.
"What a thing it is to be young!" says Mrs. Cardigan, in a tone of
half-unconscious envy. " With such a skin as that one can afford to face a
sunrise, but I know that I am looking frightfully sallow, so I shall
return to the cave to practice a few toilet arts.
She draws her hood farther over her face —"like a witch in a play," she
says, laughing—declines any escort, and flits away.
No one else moves. We are lost in admiration of the marvelous beauty which
grows greater rather than less how that the sun has risen. The sea itself
conveys no
boundless ocean of vapor which we over-look.
" It has been the dream of my life to be above the clouds," cries Sylvia,
"and now
"You certainly are," says Eric. "No ray of the sunlight which bathes us,
pieces through this canopy."
"One feels as if one might launch a boat on it," says Charley.
" Yonder is an island or two," says Mr. Lanier, pointing eastward. Several
islands appear on the verge of the horizon—the most elevated points of the
Blue Ridge piercing the clouds.
"Yonder is the crest of the Grandfather
—which was formerly thought to be the height
" I suppose that was in the days when the Black was called the Negro
Mountain," says Charley. " By Jove, what a sight ! We have the Atlantic on
one side and the Pacific on the other."
" Or rather we have a picture of the Deluge when the waters began to abate
from the face of the earth," says Sylvia. The mist is moving—see —Eric,
will it lift after a while ? "
"Very likely it may lift—and envelop
" I think you are mistaken," remarks Mr. Lanier. " The clouds are passing
away. Look in this direction."
Our eyes follow the direction of his hand, and we see that the clouds are
undoubtedly passing away from that portion of the view which lies between
us and Tennessee. The great hills of Mitchell and Yancey stand fully
revealed in the clear light and long shadows of early morning—though the
valleys are still transformed to beautiful, tremulous lakes of mist.
In her enthusiasm Sylvia calls upon Charley to assist her to the top of
the chimney again, " I must see all that can be seen," she says. " I don't
know that I shall ever witness another sunrise from the summit of the
Black."
" It has been very fine, indeed," says Mr. Lanier, " but one is enough, J
think."
Then this gentleman, like Mrs. Cardigan, retires for some finishing
touches to his toilet
—a matter which has plainly weighed on his mind for some time.
"Poor Lanier!" says Charley. "lie could not enjoy the view from Mont Blanc
if his collar was rumpled, his cravat awry, or his hair out of accurate
wave."
" It does not become you to laugh 11 him," says Sylvia, who never fails to
defers
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
her admirer—when lie is absent. " Because
you, and Nature has curled your hair so that it looks better disordered
than any other way, is no reason for making game of more fastidious and
less fortunate persons."
" I am not making game of him," says Charley, " though, by Jove ! if I
tried—however, it does not matter.—Alice, I want you to witness something
which this young lady promised me last night."
" Very well," I answer, placidly. I am on one side of the chimney and
Charley on the other, while Sylvia stands on top. The rest have
disappeared—Eric, Mr. Burnet, and Rupert, on thoughts of breakfast intent.
I am more interested in the far, blue peaks of the Unaka, and the distant
range of the Cumberland, than in anything Sylvia may have promised, but I
am ready to be obliging, so I say, " Very well."
" Now, Charley," says that young lady, in
" I always do," replies Charley, virtuously. Well, Alice, you know that
she has been in the habit of treating me with—well, I desire to be
moderate, so I will say, with great want of consideration."
" You know, Alice," says Sylvia, " that I was obliged to keep him in his
place—else what would become of him ?"
" Query, what is my place ? " asks Charley. " At your feet ?"
" A very good place," she remarks, coolly.
— Oh!"
Charley restores her to her proper balance, and then turns again to me.
" Regarding this fact," he says, " together with the corresponding fact
that I have never been in love with any woman but herself, not even for a
day in all my life—"
" What a story!" says the person on the chimney. " Charley, you ought to
be ashamed ! You never dared to tell me such an untruth ! I should at once
have reminded you of Sue Collins and Adele DuPont, not to speak of Miss
Hollis—"
" That is nonsense," says Charley. " If we began to talk of flirtations, I
could bring forward a list of your amusements that would double mine."
" A woman has a right to flirt " (dogmatically).
- Oh ! has she ?" (skeptically). " That is
a right I never heard claimed before— though it is certainly well
practiced. All this is straying from the subject, however. —The long and
short of the matter is, Alice, that she promised last night to think of
me, and I want you to stand witness to the fact."
" Why should I do anything of the kind ? " I ask. " Are you foolish enough
to fancy that' thinking of you' means anything more than giving you a sop
to keep you quiet? You ought to know Sylvia better after all these years."
"Oh, how shameful!" cries Sylvia, "to slander me in that manner, and to
talk of ' all these years,' as if I were thirty-five !"
" ' Old in guile if not in years,' " quotes Charley.—" I suppose you are
right, Alice. I suppose I am a fool. I have nothing in particular to
offer, while Lanier is abundantly gifted with the substantial charms which
win a woman's heart—or at least her hand."
" If you think that" cries Sylvia, " you may consider that I take back all
I said last night.—Alice, I submit to you—"
" Pray excuse me," I say. " Settle it between yourselves. No good ever
comes of
or flirtation."
With this I walk away, and leave them to fight it out according to their
usual custom. The result, as I afterward learn from Charley, is by no
means definite. " I'm much where I was before," he says. " Sylvia has
promised
" And she never will promise anything," I say, for his comfort. " If there
is one thing that Sylvia is averse to, it is binding herself to anything.
Perhaps she means to settle the matter according to romantic precedent.
She will fall into a torrent or over a precipice, and
timbale treasure of her hand."
" I shall look out for precipices and torrents, then, with great
interest," says Charley. "Lanier might easily break his neck over one, but
he will never rescue any one else."
These remarks are exchanged in a corner of the cave during breakfast—which
is taken whenever, wherever, and however one likes. During its progress we
begin to perceive that Eric was right — a cloud Is set-
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
us like a white fog, so dense that one might cut a slice and take it home,
Rupert observes.
" Surely it will lift after a while," we say, despondently, since few of
us are not anxious for another glimpse of the great view; but Mr. Burnet
shakes his head.
'"Isn't likely," he says.' " There's goin' to be a change of weather
shortly, and the Black's gatherin' clouds. There won't be another clear
view to be had from this peak fur a week "
" O Mr. Burnet!" cries Sylvia, in a tone of appeal, " I have set my heart
on seeing the view again. I had not time to take it in yesterday. Don't
you think, if we staid till noon, the cloud might lift ?"
" I'm afraid there ain't any hope of it," says Mr. Burnet, shaking his
head regret-
fully.
" Come, come," says Eric, " if you knew how uncertain the view from the
Black is, you would be grateful for what you have had without fretting
over what yon can't get. We may as well go down, for we shall see nothing
more."
With this ultimatum we are forced to be content ; so, after a farewell to
the cave, we ascend the peak to find the fog-like mist encompassing us on
all sides. Even Craggy is shut off from our view; indeed, at a few yards
distant every object becomes indistinct.
" We are wrapped in a cloud," says Sylvia
partly consoles for the loss of the view.
"So we see—and feel," says Mrs. Cardigan, drawing a shawl
around her, for the dampness of the cloud is exceedingly penetrating.
There is a general putting on of wraps ; then we go down to the prairie,
where Mr.
Burnet and Harrison have the horses saddled and ready. We mount, and, with
the cloud condensing moisture all around us, set our
" I believe," says Charley, addressing Sylvia, " that I have heard you
express a wish to be lost in the mountains. Here is a golden opportunity
for such an adventure. You have only to drop behind, to lose the path a
little, and you will be lost in a wilderness where we might search for
days and weeks without finding you."
" But how is one to drop behind when one is mounted on a mule that will
not go anywhere but in front ?" she asks, pulling with fruitless energy at
the rein of her lively, irrepressible animal.
ly to be forgotten by any of us. Through the dark balsam-firs, past beds
of exquisite moss and graceful ferns, we wind in single
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
I turn and look at Eric, who is riding behind me. He has pulled his hat
over his brows and his overcoat-collar up round his ears, but the ends of
his long mustache are dripping with crystal drops, and himself and his
steed looming gigantically large through the mist, which seems to possess
a magnifying power. Now and then I catch a glimpse of the line of figures
ahead, and they resemble a procession of muffled specters more than the
cavalcade which only yesterday set forth so " gaily bedight."
We do not leave the cloud until we have passed out of the region of the
firs, and entered the fair green forest, in which we hear again the voice
of the impetuous streams as
vines. Here, to our surprise, we find half-cloudy sunlight, which grows
brighter as we ride downward, until it is beaming on us with oppressive
heat, as we dismount, tired and jaded, at the door of "Patton's."
CHAPTER XIII.
Jovial and bold and ever free,
They tread their woodland home."
"AND where," asks Aunt Markham, resignedly, " are we going next ? "
" We are going," answers Eric, " to Transylvania, which I consider, take
it all in all, the loveliest county in the mountains."
" Then it must be a remarkable county," says Mrs. Cardigan, looking up
from a map which she is studying with Mr. Lanier—this has become one of
our chief amusements since we obtained a bird's-eye view of the country
from the summit of the Black.
" It is a remarkable country for deer," says Charley. " I am glad to hear
that we are going there.—But why not venture a little farther, Eric ?—why
not carry this party of intrepid explorers into the Balsam Mountains?"
" Because it is too wild a region," answers Eric. " We are not prepared
for anything so
" For Heaven's sake," says Aunt Mark-ham, with energy, " don't let us go
into any wilder region than we have been in already ! It is very well for
young people to profess to enjoy hardships, but at my age one prefers the
comforts of life—at least to the extent of
head."
" My dear aunt," says Sylvia, " that idea springs entirely from a
misconception. If you would only try once the delight of sleeping in the
open air on balsam-boughs, you would never rest until you had tried it
again."
" Very likely, indeed !" says Aunt Mark-ham, with profound skepticism. " I
hope Eric will believe that I have no desire to try
" I believe it thoroughly," says Eric," and will take care that you are
not forced to do so.—Never mind, Sylvia; next summer we will start out on
horseback, take a tent, and thoroughly explore the Balsam and the
Nantahala Mountains."
" Thanks," says Sylvia, " but next summer is so very far away ! I have
never outgrown the childish feeling of wanting a pleasure at once if I am
to have it at ail. How do I
may be married and gone to Switzerland for your wedding-tour."
Instead of blushing, Sylvia looks haughty.
" I was not alluding to anything of that kind," she says. Then she turns
to Charley —poor Charley, who is not likely to be able to afford a
wedding-tour to Switzerland.—" You have been to the Balsam Mountains," she
says. " Tell me all about them. Is the country very wild ? "
" It is exceedingly wild," he replies. " Eric is right; we are not fitted
out for going there this summer. In a tour of that
every description."
Failing the Balsam Mountains—against which a majority of the party
strongly vote— it is decided that we turn our faces toward Transylvania. ,
As I predicted, Mrs. Cardigan makes one of our party. " As far as Caesar's
Head," she says. " There I expect to meet some friends."
" I don't believe that she expects to meet
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
anybody at all," says Aunt Markham, confidentially. " I believe that she
has simply determined to make Eric fall in love with her, and—O Alice, do
you think he will ? "
I laugh.
" It is impossible to say," I answer, " but I don't think he will. If Eric
ever marries —which is doubtful—he will not be likely to choose a
beguiling widow for his wife."
Notwithstanding this opinion, I am forced to admit that the beguiling
widow in question makes herself so agreeable that even Eric is partial to
her society, and when we start she is on the front seat of the phaeton by
his side. After a day or two of rest, how glad we
pity the people who are forced to remain sta-
hotels ! Even when there is nothing in especial to be seen, it is a
delight to be in the open air, with the picturesque country spread
flashing streams, to fee! the pleasant breeze in one's face, to watch the
shadows on the hills, or the bosky depths of green woods. How many trivial
yet delightful things occur in the course of such journeying! There are
wayside lunches on mossy rocks ; there are fruit-trees to be rifled, and
hills to be climbed ; there are inhabitants of the country to be
cross-questioned with regard to distances, concerning which no two give
the
found—above all, there are many jests and much gay laughter, and the
infinite freshness and sweetness of Nature in all the wide and varying
scene, the bending sky, and streaming sunshine.
" Why does not everybody spend the summer in this manner?" says Mrs.
Cardigan, enthusiastically. "It is true that women, poor creatures! have
not much more choice with regard to their holidays than with regard to
anything else ; but men are different. How (key can prefer lounging about
a watering-place to traveling in this manner is something I cannot
understand."
" The best class of men—those with most manliness about them — do not
prefer it,"
the dancers in hotel-ballrooms or the loungers on hotel-piazzas. But you
may meet them by the hundreds with fishing-rods and rifles all through
these mountains. Yonder is a party of the kind now."
He points as he speaks to a wagon which we are in the act of passing. It
contains a tent and other provisions for camping out. Half a dozen young
men in hunting-shirts— several of them carrying guns on their
shoulders—tramp alongside. They lift their hats as we pass, showing
sunburned faces beneath—the faces of gentlemen unmistakably. Eric returns
their salutation, and then inquires—
' Where bound ?"
" To the Balsam Mountains, for fishing and hunting," answers one of the
number.
" Hope you'll have good luck."
" Much obliged."
We all bow and smile—then glance back as we wind round a curve of the
road, in time to see the equestrian members of our party halt and speak to
them. Charley apparently finds an acquaintance, for a general handshaking
takes place. ;
" Now Sylvia is in her element," says Eric. " How she will question those
fellows, and indirectly flatter them, and set them at their ease by her
cordial frankness ! In ten minutes she will draw out of them all their
information —and anything else they may possess."
"I never knew any one with a grimace gift of winning the popular heart
than she possesses," says Mrs. Cardigan. " What an invaluable wife she
would make for a politician
" Such a gift loses its value and much of its charm when u is turned to a
purpose of that kind," I remark.
'-' We drive on, and some time elapses before anything more is seen of the
riders. Then Sylvia, attended by Mr. Lanier, comes up at a canter, and the
first thing we perceive is a brace of pheasants hanging over the horn of
her saddle.
" Did you see those delightful young men ? " she asks. " Charley's friend
Grimes —you've heard him talk of Grimes, haven't you ?— is one of them. I
was very glad, for I wanted to question them all about where they were
going. They have been to the Roan, and now they are going on a
hunting-trip to the Balsam. Oh, I wish I could go \ Charley says he thinks
he will."
" Did Grimes give you those ?" asks Eric, pointing to the birds.
" No, another one—very handsome, with a dark mustache—gave them to me. I
did
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
to want to take them, but he insisted—and won't they be delicious ? "
" Very," answers Eric. " Now if we can only meet another party with a
slaughtered deer, and you will be good enough to cajole that out of them,
we shall fare royally."
"Cajole!" repeats Sylvia, indignantly. ' Didn't they press me to take
these ? " she asks, turning to Mr. Lanier.
" Certainly they did," assents that gentleman, promptly.
Presently Charley appears within convert-
" What is this I hear ? " he inquires—" are you thinking of turning
deserter ? "
" I was strongly tempted," the other answers, " but on the whole I have
decided to stand by you all. No doubt we'll get some good hunting at Buck
Forest."
We are at this time traveling once more along the banks of the French
Broad, though we can scarcely fancy that this tranquil river, with its
glassy current and smiling valley, is one with the impetuous stream which
a little later tears its headlong way through the heart of the mountains.
No river could be more placid and well-behaved than it is here. We do not
follow its course very long, but bear away across a comparatively level
though very elevated country. Evidences of thrift and prosperity abound.
One farm succeeds another in rapid succession, while the houses, as a
rule, are large and comfortable. We pass the lovely valleys of the Mills
and Davidson Rivers, with breadths of fertile lowlands in the foreground
and purple-crested hills beyond, miles of rustling corn and broad meadows
sowed in grass. All the rugged features of mountain landscape have
disappeared ; a pastoral softness fills the outlines of every picture,
while a freshness of which words can convey but a faint idea rests over
the land, and the atmosphere seems with every mile to grow purer and
We take our dinner by the roadside, on the shady banks of the Davidson.
This river is short in its course, being a tributary of the French Broad,
but no stream carries a more limpid current through fairer scenes.
"One might spend a week in exploring it," says Eric. " The scenery is
romantic in the extreme.'
" And its head-waters abound in trout," jay- Charley.
" If we Stopped to explore everything, we should never have done," says
Aunt Mark-ham, who feels that it is very necessary to restrain the
wandering inclinations of the party.
" Really now," says Mr. Lanier, " are you in earnest about the trout ?
Since I haven't seen one yet, my skepticism may be excused."
" You haven't been at any place where you could see one—except on the
Black, and nobody had time for trout - fishing there," says Charley. " The
speckled trout are only found in the purest and coldest streams—
If you joined those fellows whom we passed going to the Balsam, you would
soon be able to catch more than you'd know what to do with."
" I am not sufficiently anxious to catch them to be willing to endure all
the discomforts which those fellows are going to encounter," says Mr.
Lanier. " Our mode of traveling is quite adventurous enough, 1 think."
" Quite," says Aunt Markham.
Nobody else indorses this opinion, but
of its soundness to need any endorsement. The rest of us merely laugh. One
does not feel inclined to argument with crystal water swirling gently by,
and boughs interlacing overhead, through the greenness of which one
catches glimpses of a sky blue as the heart of a turquoise.
" ' Not Ariel lived more merrily
Under the blossoming bough than we,' "
says Sylvia. " Who wants to play a game of whist? This is one of those
periods in a journey when one does not care in the least about moving on."
Since John and Harrison are engaged in taking their dinner, and the horses
are still munching the oats which have been purchased at a neighboring
farmhouse for them, this proposal is very well received ; and the cards
are produced. Mrs. Cardigan and Eric play against Sylvia and Mr.
Lanier—the table being a convenient rock. Charley and I look on and offer
unasked advice to the , players. Aunt Markham leans back between the
spreading roots of a large oak, and takes a refreshing nap against its
trunk. There is a ford in the river nr>t far from us, and a
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
countryman who drives his ox-cart into the water, and pauses for the poor
patient beasts to drink, looks amused at the scene before him.
We linger so long that Eric shakes his head when we finally start again.
" I don't know where we shall spend the
Aunt Markham's Nap.
night," he says. " This delay has altogether upset my calculations."
" Serves you right for making such things!" says Charley. " It is a
mistake in a journey like ours. We should loiter as we like during the
day, and trust to luck for the night's shelter."
"I had rather trust to something more definite," says Aunt Markham. "
Eric, where did you expect to spend the night ? "
" I expected to spend it at Buck Forest," answers Eric, " but we can't
possibly reach there now."
" It does not matter," says Sylvia, cheerfully. " There are plenty of
houses along the road where we can stop, and improve our knowledge of the
manners and customs of Arcadia."
" That might be an agreeable prospect," says Mrs. Cardigan, "if it was not
so entirely an Arcadian custom to fry a chicken in
a pound of lard, and to provide one with a feather-bed to sleep on."
i "' The serene brightness of afternoon is spread over the land, as we
travel on at
pikes along which the horses trot gaily. Far and wide the varied prospect
extends, bathed in golden sunlight, flecked by deep shadows. It is nearly
sunset when we cross the French Broad once more—a much narrower stream
now, flowing swiftly under the bridge over which we pass. Then we have our
first glimpse of the magic beauty which will some day make Transylvania
famous! The valley of the river lies before us like a garden—a level
expanse of cultivated green-framing its broad fields and gently-swelling
hills, there stretches along the entire western horizon a range of the
most beautiful mountains which we have seen—the most beautiful, I think,
which can be seen anywhere.
letting outlines, the marvelous purity of their tints. They stand, like
the very heights of heaven, against the evening sky—softly and ineffably
fair — with the pastoral landscape spread at their feet.
We cross the lovely valley with this view before our eyes. From the great
hills long shadows stretch; all manner of sweet, fresh odors are on the
dewy air; no sapphire is half so blue as the peaks behind which the sun is
setting with such majesty that a wonderful glow lights up the entire sky ;
in the east, over the dark, wooded hills that bound the prospect, some
fleecy clouds are floating, which catch the splendor and turn to tender
est rose upon the deep-blue ether.
"This w Arcadia!" says Sylvia. "We have reached it at last! By many ways,
through many scenes have we come—but never before have we found such a
scene as this!"
"It is the fairest valley in the mountains!" says Eric, regarding it with
pride
Even Aunt Markham is so much absorbed that she has forgotten to ask where
we are to spend the night, but the deepening shades of twilight recall
this question to her mind. She looks round apprehensively.
" I hope you don't mean to travel after night, Eric," she says. " In the
mountains it is very dangerous, and the moon does rise until late."
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
" I shall not travel after night if I can help it," answers Eric, touching
up the horses. " I think I know a place about two miles from here where we
can stop, I don't promise you excellent accommodation, however."
"Oh, never mind about that," says Mrs. Cardigan. " We have learned not to
be fastidious."
" But we should like, if possible, to be comfortable," says Aunt Markham,
with an expression of anxiety.
So, on through the deepening dusk we drive—leaving the French Broad Valley
behind, but keeping in sight the graceful range of mountains with the
sunset pomp dying away beyond. O wild and beautiful country, elevated so
far above the rest of the world, and encircled by granite barriers, if it
were possible to write down all that makes your charm, how soon fame would
come to you !—but, then, perhaps fault-finding tourists and inane
pleasure-seekers might come too, so that your virgin freshness would be
brushed away, and the nymphs and dryads which now seem to haunt the depths
of your valleys and the far retreats of your hills, would vanish
altogether.
Presently—when twilight has purpled and softened all the scene, when the
rosy clouds have become gray, filmy vapors, and only a golden glow is left
of the sunset pageant— we bowl down to another stretch of lowland.
" Transylvania seems to be rich in rivers," I remark. " Pray, what stream
is this? "
" Little River," answers Eric, whose foot is now indeed on his native
heath since he has fished in these waters, and hunted over these hills,
until both are thoroughly familiar to him. " And yonder is the house where
I hope we can stay all night."
He points with his whip as he speaks, and we follow the gesture with our
glance. After some of our experiences in the matter of wayside lodging,
this which we behold appears very encouraging. It is a comfortable
farmhouse, placed near the road, with rich fields stretching back, and
wooded heights rising near at hand.
" Leaving here," remarks Eric, " the road turns abruptly around those
hills, and enters gorge, hemmed by mountains on one side and the river on
the other.—If these people won't take us in, you must, mother.
whether you had rather dare the dangers of the pass, or—camp out."
" I'll wait to decide until they refuse to take us in,' says Aunt Markham,
philosophically.
They do not refuse. Hospitality—that great virtue which is always more or
less associated with a pastoral life—now, as ever, pleads in our behalf.
The woman of the house at first demurs.
" We are not prepared to accommodate travelers," she says ; " we are not
accustomed to takin' them in."
But, when Eric represents that if we are not taken in our strait will be
desperate, she yields at once.
" You may come in, then," she says, ' arid I'll do my best to oblige you,"
After this, we cannot be ungrateful enough to find fault—even if fault
there was to find. When they have opened their doors, these mountain
people seem to open their hearts as well, and no one can travel through
the country without receiving much kindness and invariable civility—unless
his experience be widely different from ours.
The carriages are relieved of their much furious luggage, the trunks are
taken idiot the house, we make a brief survey of apartments assigned to
us, and then gather on the piazza in the cool, clear dusk, thief jar
hostess betakes herself to the kitchen, whence an ominous fizzling sound
soon proceeds.
" O that frying-pan !" says Sylvia, with a roan. " I wish I could make a
bonfire of very one in existence!"
" You don't know what cruel desolation you would inflict on a large
proportion of your fellow-creatures," says Charley.
" I should enjoy inflicting it," she says, vindictively, " Yonder are two
men coming in ! I wonder if they are belated travelers? Why, Charley,
it's—it's Grimes and another
At this lucid statement we all turn, the gate, and are now approaching the
pi-
" If you come for lodging, you are too late," Charley says, with a laugh.
" We have engaged all the apartments of this hotel."
" By Jove, it's Kenyon ." says one of the young men. Then they doff their
hats to the party. "We thought you were ever so
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY:" OR,
far ahead of us," the speaker goes on. " How do you come (o be here ?"
"We Idled so long at mid-day that we fell short of our place of
destination," Eric answers. " I am sorry for the fact if you have come for
lodging."
" For lodging!" they repeat. ' We have come for some milk. Our tent is
pitched a little distance from here."
" I'll pilot you to the kitchen," says Charley. " We haven't engaged all
the milk."
They return presently, laughing and talking—their tin bucket full of the
desired fluid
—linger to exchange a few remarks, give us a cordial invitation to visit
their camp, and then take their departure.
* What delightful times they must have !" says Sylvia, watching them
enviously ; " -what a thing it is to be a man !"
" Sometimes it Is very much of a thing to be a woman," observes Mr.
Lanier.
When supper is over, Sylvia, Charley, and Rupert, announce their intention
of going to the camp, and Mrs. Cardigan, Mr. Lanier, Eric, and myself,
decide to accompany them. The walk is very pleasant. Starlight is
beautiful in all places—a vague, shadowy light which gives infinite play
to the imagination
—but it is specially beautiful and marvelously bright in this land of the
sky. We stroll along the road, hearing the soft rush of water in the
semi-darkness, conscious of many different floating odors, and with a dim
outline of spreading valley and dark hills around. Above, the magnificent
arch of heaven is ablaze with myriads of stars—jewel-like worlds throbbing
in their strange, silent glory through all the wide realm of space.
Before we reach our destination, we catch the ruddy gleam of a fire, and
hear a sound of
" By George, they've got a fiddle!" cries Rupert, enthusiastically.
He darts forward eagerly. We turn a sharp bend of the path, and the camp
is before us. What is more picturesque than such a scene ? The bright glow
of the fire extends over a radius of several yards, lighting up
fantastically the tangled depths of foliage on a neighboring hillside and
the vine-draped face of a great rock. The tent is pitched near—behind
which an unseen stream murmurs over its stones. The wagon stands at some
distance. Over the foreground the party are scattered in various
attitudes, amok-
ing like so many volcanoes. On a large stone immediately in front of the
fire sits the fiddler —a negro, whose foot keeps time, and whose body
sways with the music.
" I didn't know that you carried a musician along with you, Grimes," says
Charley, when we have been welcomed and introduced to the circle.
" Oh, that fellow does double duty," an-
day and plays the fiddle all night—at least as much of the night as we'll
allow him to
play. He doesn't make bad music, either, as fiddlers go."
" He makes uncommonly good music," says Sylvia, who evidently finds
difficulty in keeping her feet still. " What excellent " Wouldn't you like
to dance ?"
Before that lady can answer, two or three of the young men speak eagerly,
" Why shouldn't you dance if you would like it ?" they inquire. " It's
what we have been pining for to such an extent that we have several times
danced with each other."
" But where can we dance ? " asks Mrs. Cardigan, glancing round.
" On the ground, like fairies," says Eric
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In the house we left a few minutes ago," says Charley. " There's quite
a large room there. We'll take the fiddler and go back."
So, accompanied by the fiddler and the majority of the party, we return to
the house. One or two of the gentlemen demur slightly on the score of
their appearance, but, having been assured by Sylvia that their flannel
hunting-shirts are very picturesque and altogether appropriate to the
occasion, they consent to enter the saloon, which is magnificently lighted
by two tallow-can dies placed on a mantel-piece so high that a per-
stature would require a ladder
son of moderate
This is a trifle, however. On waxed floors and under blazing chandeliers I
have yet to see a tenth part of the merriment, the absolute enjoyment,
which makes this evening delightful. How gaily the laughter rings, how
bright the eyes, how light the steps
" Oh, if in after-life we could but gather
The very refuse of our youthful hours I"
We dance several quadrilles, try a waltz or two, and close with an
old-fashioned reel During this last the mirth grows fairly uproarious,
and, as Sylvia leads down the middle with Grimes, she turns her flushed,
sparkling face over her shoulder to say to Mrs. Cardigan :
" Isn't this ever so much better than the Springs?"
" It is a most brilliant ball, especially in the matter of costumes," the
widow laughs back. The brilliant ball closes about midnight. Compassion
for Tip the fiddler, who assures us, however, that he is not tired, and
for Aunt Markham, whose sleeping-apartment adjoins the ballroom, together
with a recollection of our travel during the past day, and early rising on
the morrow,
our new acquaintances to
lwhen we go to the piazza to see them off with many jests, farewell words,
and good wishes.
This is not the last of
later we are roused from sleep by voices under our window suddenly
bursting
" Those scamps ! " says Sylvia. " They threatened me with a serenade, and
I said to them, ' Don't,' but you see they have come."
" One or two of them have good voices," says Mrs. Cardigan. " Listen !
Really this is worth being waked for."
We agree that it is. The silver moonlight streams, the dark foliage sways
gently, the merry voices rise in chorus. Song follows song — serenades,
woodland ballads, hunting-glees. Several of the voices are excellent. It
is a melodious tenor which presently sings that exquisite serenade ;
s led me, who knows how, To thy chamber-window, s
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" If it is half as pleasant for them to sing as for us to listen, how they
must be enjoying themselves !" says Mrs. Cardigan. " What is that ? ' Good
- by, Sweetheart, Good - by !' They mean to close now."
" I must throw them a flower when they finish," says Sylvia, stealing to
the window.
The flower is thrown, " Good-nights " are uttered, then steps and voices
recede ; the last we hear some one is singing, as they tramp down the
road:
" 'Tis but a little faded flower. But, oh, how dear to me !
The words grow inaudible, the laughter dies away, our pleasant friends of
a day are gone !
CHAPTER XIV. " How fair this mountain's purple bust.
And see yon village spires up thrust.
And yon dark plain—how fair I" How fair this lone and lovely scene,
With darkness over all!"
THE early sunshine is lying warm and bright over the valley, and the far
mountains stand fully revealed in soft blue loveliness beneath the radiant
sky, when we bid farewell next morning to the pastoral landscape which has
charmed us so much, and continue our journey.
Not more than a quarter of a mile from the house where we spent the night,
the road turns abruptly, and leaving the valley enters
side and overlooking a deep gorge through which the Little River comes in
white sheets and hurrying rapids. Great heights, clothed with verdure,
dominate the pass, so that our way lies in shadow, only pierced here and
there by rays of sunlight that fill the dusky greenness with a shimmer of
gold. The road is a mere shelf—narrow as that along the French Broad, and
more dangerous, inasmuch as one is at least on a level with the latter
river, while here one has the pleasing prospect (in case necessity
requires one to pass another vehicle) of being pushed over a precipice
varying in depth from fifty to a hundred feet, to the rocks and rushing
water below.
We do not go over, however, despite an encounter with two wagons at one of
the narrowest points of the road. It is a mat-ter requiring much time and
ingenuity to engineer past them without an accident, but Eric and
John—having relieved themselves of their human freight as a matter of
precaution—manage to do so successfully.
The morning is all before us in which to reach Buck Forest, so we take
advantage of the pause to clamber over rocks and through laurel-bushes, to
a point from which we command a view of the river as it sweeps down at a
declination of forty or fifty degrees, and-
That flings the froth from curb and bit,"
whirls in eddying foam and spray over, under, and around the massive rocks
that bar its course, "^
" This stream has a troubled time of it altogether," says Charley, who has
gone out farther than any one else dares venture, and
row, shelving ledge overlooking the surging current. " From its fountain,
until it reaches the valley which we have just left—where the French Broad
immediately swallows it up—it flows over a bed of rock, and is broken into
endless falls and rapids—several of them exceedingly grand."
" It strikes me that the entire country seems to have a rock foundation,"
says Mr. Lanier. " Look at that mountain over there ! It is solid rock,
with a few feet of soil on the
" The effect is picturesque in the extreme," says Mrs. Cardigan, regarding
the mountain in question with approbation.
Certainly nothing can be finer than this splendid height, as it rises
above the stream for at least a thousand feet, its great side covered with
tangled greenness save in places where the rock is uncovered and stands
forth boldly in gray cliffs, while, by throwing our heads far bark as we
look upward, we can see the crest outlined against the intense
silvery-blue sky.
After leaving this point we travel for two or three miles at a very
leisurely rate—spend-ing more time out of the carriages than in them,
since the beautiful road tempts one to constant lingering. The flashing
water is before our eyes, its musical tumult in our ears; the rocks, the
foliage-clad .hills, the
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" If it is half as pleasant for them to sing as for us to listen, how they
must be enjoying themselves !" says Mrs. Cardigan. " What is that ? ' Good
- by, Sweetheart, Good - by !' They mean to close now."
" I must throw them a flower when they finish," says Sylvia, stealing to
the window.
The flower is thrown, " Good-nights " are uttered, then steps and voices
recede ; the last we hear some one is singing, as they tramp down the
road:
" 'Tis but a little faded flower. But, oh, how dear to me !
The words grow inaudible, the laughter dies away, our pleasant friends of
a day are gone !
CHAPTER XIV. " How fair this mountain's purple bust.
And see yon village spires up thrust.
And yon dark plain—how fair I" How fair this lone and lovely scene,
With darkness over all!"
THE early sunshine is lying warm and bright over the valley, and the far
mountains stand fully revealed in soft blue loveliness beneath the radiant
sky, when we bid farewell next morning to the pastoral landscape which has
charmed us so much, and continue our journey.
Not more than a quarter of a mile from the house where we spent the night,
the road turns abruptly, and leaving the valley enters
side and overlooking a deep gorge through which the Little River comes in
white sheets and hurrying rapids. Great heights, clothed with verdure,
dominate the pass, so that our way lies in shadow, only pierced here and
there by rays of sunlight that fill the dusky greenness with a shimmer of
gold. The road is a mere shelf—narrow as that along the French Broad, and
more dangerous, inasmuch as one is at least on a level with the latter
river, while here one has the pleasing prospect (in case necessity
requires one to pass another vehicle) of being pushed over a precipice
varying in depth from fifty to a hundred feet, to the rocks and rushing
water below.
We do not go over, however, despite an encounter with two wagons at one of
the narrowest points of the road. It is a matter requiring much time and
ingenuity to engineer past them without an accident, but Eric and
John—having relieved themselves of their human freight as a matter of
precaution—manage to do so successfully.
The morning is all before us in which to reach Buck Forest, so we take
advantage of the pause to clamber over rocks and through laurel-bushes, to
a point from which we command a view of the river as it sweeps down at a
declination of forty or fifty degrees, and-
That flings the froth from curb and bit,"
whirls in eddying foam and spray over, under, and around the massive rocks
that bar its course, "^
" This stream has a troubled time of it altogether," says Charley, who has
gone out farther than any one else dares venture, and
row, shelving ledge overlooking the surging current. " From its fountain,
until it reaches the valley which we have just left—where the French Broad
immediately swallows it up—it flows over a bed of rock, and is broken into
endless falls and rapids—several of them exceedingly grand."
" It strikes me that the entire country seems to have a rock foundation,"
says Mr. Lanier. " Look at that mountain over there ! It is solid rock,
with a few feet of soil on the
" The effect is picturesque in the extreme," says Mrs. Cardigan, regarding
the mountain in question with approbation.
Certainly nothing can be finer than this splendid height, as it rises
above the stream for at least a thousand feet, its great side covered with
tangled greenness save in places where the rock is uncovered and stands
forth boldly in gray cliffs, while, by throwing our heads far bark as we
look upward, we can see the crest outlined against the intense
silvery-blue sky.
After leaving this point we travel for two or three miles at a very
leisurely rate—spend-ing more time out of the carriages than in them,
since the beautiful road tempts one to constant lingering. The flashing
water is before our eyes, its musical tumult in our ears; the rocks, the
foliage-clad hills, the
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how are you ? "
The gentleman thus addressed has just emerged from the house ; he starts
at sight of Eric, and they shake hands heartily. Inquiries and greetings
are exchanged. We catch the words " fine buck "—" shot him at about forty
yards"—"first-rate shot"— " made by Mr. Char! ton."
" I wonder if he is speaking of Geoffrey Charlton?" says Mrs. Cardigan. "I
know him. He is a writer—a journalist, or something of that kind."
" Such people are not generally agreeable," says Sylvia—who, a month ago,
was inclined to exalt "culture" above anything else, and esteemed "such
people" to be the cream of earth's population. " They are too much
inclined to think that nothing is worth knowing which is not to be found
in books."
" I am afraid that if you remain in this country much longer you will
think that nothing is worth knowing which is not learned in the woods,"
observed Mr. Lanier, with rather a forced smile.
" There are worse schools of manhood," says Charley, taking down one of
the horns, and winding such a blast that the hounds all start up with an
enraptured howl.
the sight of their fresh toilets moves us to a sudden recollection of our
travel-stained condition—for rocks and bushes are more picturesque than
beneficial in their effect upon costumes. We retire to our rooms, and, by
the time we have made some necessary changes of dress, the dinner-bell
rings.
We should be very ungrateful if we failed to record the fact that the fare
at Buck Forest is admirable, considering that we do the fullest possible
justice to it. Sylvia breathes a sigh of satisfaction when she receives on
her plate a slice of tender, well-dressed venison,
"At last! " she says.
" At last you have reached the Ultimate Thule of your dreams," says
Charley. " Shall I go out after dinner and shoot some pheasants for your
supper ? They abound here."
" No," she answers, " don't overwhelm me ! Venison is enough for the first
day— and such venison ! To - morrow you may shoot the pheasants."
Meanwhile, Mrs. Cardigan has found that Mr. Charlton is her acquaintance
and she is talking to him across the table.
" What a remote corner of creation this is in which to meet you!" she
says. " 1'ray how do you come to be here ? "
Mr. Charlton shrugs his shoulders.
" I hardly know," he answers. " Chance, good-fortune, anything you like,
wafted me here. I have been in Transylvania for a month."
" And like it, of course ; else you would not have staid so long."
" Could any one fail to like it ? "
" Well, yes — I am sure some people would not like it," she replies, " But
not people of good taste, like you and me. Are you much of a hunter?"
" Not very much, but I had the good luck to kill a deer this morning."
" So I have heard—a fine buck, they say. May I ask a favor for old
acquaintance' sake ? Will you give me the antlers ? "
Certainly, Mrs. Cardigan will never need anything through lack of asking
for it. A cardinal principle of her philosophy appears to be, ' When you
want a thing, say so.' In the present instance she makes her request,
sang-froid. Mr. Charlton on his part looks a trifle embarrassed.
" I should be very happy to grant you 'that, or any other favor," he says,
" but I have already promised the antlers—though I had little hope, when I
made the promise, of securing such spoils—to a lady whom I left at Cesar's
Head."
" Oh, indeed !" she says, opening her eyes a little. " In that case of
course I can't expect you to give them to me. But perhaps some one else
will gratify me.—Mr. Mark-ham—Mr. Lanier—who will promise me the antlers
of the first stag killed ? "
" We all promise them," says Eric, gallantly, " provided that we are lucky
enough to kill another stag."
"don't promise," says Charley, in on undertone.—" Shouldn't you like
them?" he adds, turning to Sylvia.
" Very much—if they were offered to me," she answers, in the same tone ; "
but I don't think anything has much value that one is forced to ask for."
" Some things have," says the young man. quickly.
The place not being auspicious for a sentimental conversation, Sylvia
takes no notice of this remark.
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
" But if anybody wanted to make me perfectly happy," she proceeds, " he
would get me a small live fawn."
Fortunately for Charley, before he can pledge himself to anything rash,
Aunt Mark-ham makes the move for leaving table, and we follow. The piazza
at Buck Forest, even more than at most places of the kind, is
reception-room, parlor, card-room, gathering-place in chief; HO we adjourn
thither, and
" Suppose we devote it to rest ?" I venture to suggest; but the idea is
contemptuously scouted.
"Who needs rest?" says Sylvia. "/ don't. If anybody will take me anywhere,
I'll go gladly."
" Should you like to join a deer-hunt?" asks Eric. " Brandon thinks that
if we take the dogs through the Rich Mountain drive, we may perhaps start
a deer. At all events it is worth trying ; and the view from the mountain
is worth seeing. I know of no view so fine to be obtained with so little
trouble."
" O Eric, haw charming you are ! " cries Sylvia, starting up. "Of course I
will go."
"And I," says Mrs.
I find myself too strongly tempted by this prospect to carry out my own
proposal of rest; so it follows that in the course of the next hour we
start—a train of merry equestrians, with horns and guns and dogs.
" This is what I have dreamed of!" says Sylvia, with ecstasy.
" I hope you dreamed of starting a deer," says Charley.
" I hope she didn't," says Rupert. " Dreams always go by contraries."
Rich Mountain is three miles distant from Buck Forest, and the ride
thither is like enchantment on this September after-
noon. The beauty of the day is without flaw, and the green depths of the
forest into which we plunge are filled with a streaming glory of amber
sunshine. Mr. Brandon and Eric, who lead the cavalcade, do not follow any
road nor even a bridle-path. Straight through " the coverts of the deer,"
in other words, through the most thickly-timbered woods and the densest
chaparrals of laurels and ivy, they go, and we straggle after them. There
is not very much conversation. In
the first place, we are too scattered, for every rider chooses his own way
; and, in the second place, the attention of our escorts is altogether
concentrated upon the dogs. Will they "jump" a deer? That is the momentous
question which fills their minds. The dogs themselves seem anxious enough
to do so. They run to and fro with their noses to the ground, and
obediently answer any horn or whoop which may be sounded ; but no deer is
unfortunate enough to be " jumped." Meanwhile we are mounting higher and
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
higher in gradual but certain ascent. So rich is the soil beneath our
horses' feet, so luxuriant the growth upon it that we appreciate the fact
that the mountain deserves its name, and we are not surprised to hear that
it is a favorite cattle-range.
" There are hundreds of cattle on it," says
Mr. Brandon.
'You'll se. reach the s
any number of
Presently we strike into a path which leads directly upward, winding
through the beautiful world of green and gold. Suddenly we look round with
amazement. What is this ? Here on this mountain-side, in the midst of the
fair, wild forest, we find ourselves in a castle - court — a quadrangular
space, enclosed by great rocks of square, massive shape, and soft, gray
tint.
" The Castle Rock," says Charley, pointing to the largest of these. "
Fine, isn't it ? "
It is very fine, and fully as large as a castle, which it strongly
resembles. The grandeur of these fragments is heightened by their position
and isolation. No other rocks are anywhere near, but so firmly fixed are
they that one feels that they may have stood since the beginning of time.
" When we come back from the summit," ;t, taking a coil of rope from the
saddle and throwing it on the :limb to the top of that
how we can," says Mrs. Cardigan, who has no relish for adventures in which
her neck is absolutely put in jeopardy.
" Oh, it's easy enough," says Charley, L mount on the other side
spirit. For this reason one deprecate such hasty v
of mountains ; paid gale the summits most people make, such s might spend
carelessly, with a rope "
" So that is what the rope is for," says Sylvia. " I have been wondering
who was to be hanged."
From this point the ascent is very steep to the top of the knob which
crowns the mountain. Nevertheless, we ride to the summit, then dismount,
the horses are fastened, Haywood, gi and we go to the verge of a rocky
precipice, from which, " broad, extended far beneath," lies the view.
It is lovely in the extreme, and more extensive than can be realized at
first. Indeed, no view which is worth anything can be grasped at once —
its beauties must grow
hours—nay, even days—in studying
From the bold crest of Rich Mountain— which is sufficiently elevated for a
commanding view, yet not high enough to dwarf all beneath it into
insignificance, as one must confess that the Black Mountain does—we
overlook all the country south and southeast of it. At our feet lies that
upper valley , / the French Broad, which is the pride of Trail Sylvania,
while a little beyond, embosomed in green hills, the pretty village of
Brevard catches the sunlight on its white houses. Around the horizon one
line of blue, waving mountains succeeds another, until the farthest can
scarcely be distinguished from clouds a they stand against the sky.
" Yonder is the great range of the Balsam," says Eric, pointing to the
most prominent chain, the dark-blue masses of which overlook the wooded
hills and smiling plains of the foreground. " Behind are the Cullowhee and
the Nantahala. Here on the left is the Blue Ridge, while far and faint in
the west are the peaks of the Smoky, with Georgia and Tennessee behind." X
How infinitely beautiful it all is! The tints on the vast array of
mountains run
pie to palest blue. The atmosphere is so clear that beyond the gaps of the
Blue Ridge we see the misty plain of South Carolina stretching away
southward. The jewel-like day reveals the scene in all its loveliness, yet
the picture does not lack the softness that only shadows give. Far off in
the west, among the rugged heights and dark passes of the Balsam, a cloud
is discharging itself between us and the sun, while the rays of the
latter, striking through the falling rain, light it up to indescribable
glory. Over Pisgah and the mountains that divide Transylvania from if soft
white clouds
are lying, wrapping here and there the summits of the peaks, and a silver
haze —half cloud, half mist—drapes the outlines of the distant Smoky,
" If you were here in the morning you would see the sun strike the shining
side of the Looking-Glass Mountain yonder," says me
Mr. Brandon, pointing over Brevard. decrees, its charm sink gradually on
toe I " I wish we could see the sun rise
says
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
Sylvia. ." Can't we stay all night, as we did on the Black Mountain?"
" Would you like to bivouac in the open air ?" asks Eric
" I should not object," she answers ; "but IS there no way of getting into
the Castle Rock?"
" I am sorry to say that we have not yet discovered the way," Mr. Brandon
replies.
" Perhaps if we struck the side of it and said' Open sesame,' a door might
swing back," says Mrs. Cardigan,
" But the people who went into such places under such circumstances were
generally unable to come out again, weren't they ?" asks Mr. Lanier. "
That would not be en-
" We'll go and try the experiment at any rate," says Charley. " If we mean
to ascend the rock, we have no time to spare. The sun will set in half an
hour—or less time."
" And there is going to be a gorgeous sunset," says Sylvia, looking at the
marshaling clouds. " Let us stay for it!"
" Just as you like," says Charley, " the sunset or the rock. Choose
between them— for you can't have both."
" Put it to the vote," cries Rupert.
It is put to the vote, and the rock carries the day. Only Mr. Lanier votes
for the sunset—partly from indolence, partly to please Sylvia. That young
lady rewards him by saying that after all she prefers the ascent of the
rock. " That will be adventurous," she remarks. " This is only beautiful."
. So we go down to where the rocks stand 1 in their picturesque
massiveness, with plumy ferns covering the ground at their base, and a
world of graceful foliage drooping around, Having entered the quadrangle,
we dismount again, and are led to the western side of the Castle Rock.
Here we pause and gaze at the height which we are expected to scale.
Eighty - five feet above, the great mass towers sheer and bold, with
broken escarpments here and there, and, higher up, a shelving side,
scarcely affording foothold, one would say, for anything less active than
a squirrel. We look at each other half-laughing, half-dismayed.
" How are we ever to get to the top of that?" says Mrs. Cardigan.
" Eric is there," cries Sylvia. " See ! he is fastening the rope to a tree
that grows
out of the top of the rock. If he wont up without a rope, surely we can
climb with
"It is a great risk," says Mr. Lanier, who has plainly no fancy for such a
feat. " I beg you, ladies, not to attempt the ascent. It is
"Hallo!"—Charley's smiling face looks at us over a ledge of the rock — "we
are ready. Who comes first?"
"I do!" answers Sylvia. She springs forward, unheeding the fact that Mr.
Lanier grows almost pale in his eagerness to detain her. He absolutely
catches her arm.
" Pray listen to me," he says. " Pray don't go. If you were to fall,
nothing could save you from a severe injury. Kenyon is not to be relied
on. He risked your life once before—"
She shakes off his hand impatiently. There is a flash in her eye as she
glances at him.
" Charley thinks more of my life than he does of his own," she says. " He
never risked it. I never was in danger—not for a moment—when I was with
him. Let me go!"
He lets her go. As he falls back, biting his Up, I see a quick flush rise
to Mrs. Cardigan's dark cheek. Perhaps at that moment it occurs to her
that many a heart—or at least many a fancy—is caught in the rebound, and
that pique is the surest cure for a hopeless passion. She utters a low
laugh as the discomfited gentleman returns to her side.
" I see you don't appreciate," she says, " the tenderness that exists
between Miss Norwood and Mr. Kenyon—and that the best way to make a woman
do a thing is to beg her not to do it."
"Is it the best way with you?" he asks, turning with a glow—of resentment
against Sylvia—in his eyes.
" Not particularly so," she answers, lightly, " though of course I share
somewhat the infirmities of my sex."
"And do you intend to climb that rock?" he says. " I am sure you will find
it not only dangerous but very disagreeable."
" I don't think I shall climb it," she replies, slowly. As she speaks, I
see plainly that she longs to follow Sylvia, who is now standing by
Charley's side, far above our heads, while Eric instructs her how to hold
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
rock which still rises above them.
This operation is a difficult and not very graceful one. Sylvia is
escorted safely to
he promised, however. I, too, am conveyed safely to the top, and deposited
in a breath-
less condition' to feel is fiat. There is so
rock which it is a
reform
Cardigan declines to venture. I am hoisted up to Charley—words fail me to
speak of the height of the steps which one is told to take, and the manner
in which the muscles of one's arms are tested, in this kind of
climbing—then Eric receives me in charge.
" I have only one thing to say," he remarks, before we start, " don't be
afraid! If you were to faint, I'd carry you safely to the top."
This is reassuring — as is also the firm
the rope. But rocks—especially when they are shelving—are very slippery,
and I have a slightly giddy feeling in attempting to crawl like a spider
across the side of one, with only a rope to cling to if my foot should
slip. Eric does all, and more than all, that
further—but not very difficult—climbing, and then we stand on the summit
of the Castle, with the mountain shelving downward, a sea of verdure at
our feet, and an extensive view toward the east, which would be beautiful
in a clearer light. Now the shades of evening have fallen, and the
outlines of the distant scene have grown indistinct. Nevertheless our
guide
"There is the Black!" he says.
Truly enough, there it is—the outlines of its mighty shoulders clearly
denned, though a cloud, as usual, wraps its head. J
"That is the same N cloud we left there," says Charley, who has by this
time followed us.
Rupert—who accompanied Eric in the first ascent — was already on the top
when we reached it; the rest of the party now appear, with the exception
of Mrs. Cardigan and Mr. Lanier, who remain below. / Over the peak behind
us brilliant masses of sunset clouds float-clouds which make Sylvia almost
regret that she did not remain for this sweet vesper of the dying
day—while the soft, purple veil of twilight covers like a mantle the wide
expanse which we overlook.
" Oh," says Sylvia, turning to Charley, " this is surely better than if
you had' jumped' a deer!"
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
Under
CHAPTER XV.
to the mountains led his sheep,
alley green and deep, r rock-ramparts gray ;
" Sat on a stone where the waters run
Rippling the hours away, Touched his lute in the light of the sun-That was
a summer day."
WE return to the hotel through the soft, starlit dusk, and find that the
company has changed during our absence. Several newcomers have arrived,
Mr. Charlton has taken
" He has an attraction at Cesar's Head," observes Mr. Brandon, when Mrs.
Cardigan remarks this fact. " Miss Tyrrell is there— you know her,
Markham. She is an uncommonly nice girl,"
"Who is she?" asks Mrs. Cardigan, with the interest that some women are
quick to feel in any other woman who is reputed attractive.
While this question is answered, and Eric is sounding the praises of Miss
Tyrrell and her family, the supper-bell rings, and we go in with appetites
sharpened by the fresh
After supper the piazza is not less attractive than by day, and, with
shawls wrapped around us, we adjourn thither. The stars are brilliant, and
against the steel-blue sky the dark crest of Rich Mountain is distinctly
outlined.
"Don't you wish we were there now?" asks Sylvia, wistfully. " How silent
and awesome it must be ! "
" Some of us don't fancy awesome things," says Charley, who is seated on
the steps smoking. " I prefer my present quarters very much."
" You have no poetry in your soul," says the young lady. "Mr. Lanier, now
— I am sure he would like to be there."
She glances round as she speaks, but there is no Mr. Lanier to answer the
jesting words. His place is vacant, so likewise is that of Mrs. Cardigan.
At the far end of the piazza two dark figures in close proximity are dingy
visible — star-gazing, no doubt. Eric laughs.
" ' Now, gallant Saxon, hold thine own ! ' " be says to Sylvia. " There
seem suspicious signs of treachery and desertion in the camp."
descend lo notice," she answers, carelessly.
Notwithstanding this sentiment she expresses herself with less reserve on
the subject when we are alone for the night.
"Have you ever seen anything to equal the manner in which Mrs. Cardigan is
trying to flirt with Ralph Lanier?" she asks. "She has given up Eric as a
hopeless subject, and turned her batteries on the other."
" It is certainly a bold invasion of the rights of property," I say, "
considering what
time. No woman with self-respect would act in such a manner—but Mrs.
Cardigan has little of that quality. Nevertheless, you have yourself, not
her attractions, to blame for Mr. Lanier's desertion."
" Perhaps I have," she says, carelessly. " I know that I could bring him
back by a word —but I don't think I shall speak the word. I have lost any
faint liking I may ever have had for him, and as for making a cold-blooded
marriage of convenience—I could not do that if my life depended on it."
"Take care!" I say, warningly. "I grant that Mr. Lanier does not appear (o
great advantage on a tour of this description—he is, in fact, altogether
out of his element. But you don't expect to spend your life in Arcadia,
and when you go back to the world, where fine dresses, fine jewels, fine
equipages, will assume again their place of first importance, you may be
sorry for having discarded a man who represents all these things."
"What a feminine Mephistopheles you are!" she says. Then she throws back
the cloud of dark hair which she is combing, and looks at me with her
shining eyes. " Perhaps it is a good thing to wander in Arcadia for a
little while and realize that life may be happy, and healthy, and free,
without any of those things," she says. " It is something I have needed to
learn."
" Which means, I suppose, that you are going to marry Charley, and try
living in Arcadia for good. You are a simpleton— but never mind ! Stop
talking, and go to bed."
" You are mistaken," she says, with dignity. " Because I don't choose to
marry one man is no reason for supposing I mean to marry another."
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
" You are an arrant flirt, and a shameful impostor !" I say ; and then I
go to bed myself.
The next morning at breakfast we find that there are grave signs of
desertion of another kind. The gentlemen in a body are missing—having
taken an early departure for a deer-hunt. Sylvia is much injured and
incensed by this proceeding.
"I should not mind it so much if they had not known that 1 wanted to go !"
she says. " It is mean and shameful of :hem to act in so — so underhand a
manner. They must have stolen away ; they could not even have sounded a
horn, or it would have waked me."
" You are mistaken about that," says one of the ladies. " There was a
great deal of noise, blowing of horns and barking of dogs. You must have
slept soundly not to have heard it."
" How can anybody help sleeping soundly in this climate ?" asks Sylvia,
aggrieved.
It is the middle of the day before the hunters return, empty-handed—having
failed altogether to start a deer, which fact is full of balm to Sylvia's
feelings. She is standing on the piazza with a novel (to which she has
liken forced to betake herself) in her hand, when they ride up, and she
proceeds at once to empty the vials of her indignation upon their heads.
" Are you not ashamed of yourselves ?" she says. " If you had told me that
you did not want me, of course I should not have pressed my society upon
you ; but to go off in this manner, and leave me behind without a
word—that I call mean in the extreme."
" Look here !" says Eric, " you surely did not expect to betaken on a
regular deer-hunt? Why, you would find nothing entertaining in it, and you
would be amazingly in the way besides."
This remark wounds Sylvia deeply. In the way! She is evidently unable to
imagine that such a thing could be within the remotest range of
possibility. A flush comes over her face, she draws herself up.
" In that case, I have nothing more to say," she remarks, and moves away
like a
With a laugh, Charley springs from his horse and follows her. She has
retreated to the end of the piazza, where Mrs. Cardigan and Mr. Lanier
conducted their Situation the nig-ht before, and opened her novel with the
air of one intensely absorbed—an air, how. ever, which does not impose
upon the young man, who comes up smiling.
"Don't be vexed, Sylvia!" he says. " Eric is a sort of mis—what do you
call it?
—woman-hater, you know. should not have found you in the way at all; but
it would have been a pity to disturb you so early in the morning. Why, we
started at daylight, and you know you are not partial to rising with the
lark—unless it is for a horseback flirtation."
Sylvia's eyes are fastened on the pages of " The Wooing Of" She takes no
notice of the apologies, or of the last assertion, and Charley has an
excellent opportunity to observe the length and color of her lashes, as
they droop steadily downward. He laughs again.
" How shall we pacify you ?" he says. " Shall we take you to Rich Mountain
again ? By-the-by, did you leave anything on the top of Castle Rock
yesterday evening ? "
" I lost a piece of blue ribbon from my hair," she answers, glancing up
now — and then she sees the identical knot of ribbon pinned on the front
of his coat. " So you have found it!" she says, holding out hei hand.
But he draws back.
" Treasure - trove !" he says. "I was passing the rock with Lanier, and we
both observed it lying on the side. I suggested that whoever could get it
should have it, but he declined to climb, so I risked my neck alone—and
here it is. You could not think of asking me to give it up after that!"
*' It is not of much importance," she say^, carelessly, "but I don't see
what you want with it."
" Ah ! don't you ? Well, Lanier does. I
on the face of the globe just now. This is my order of merit, and—aud blue
is the color of hope, isn't it ?
' Give me but what this ribbon bound. Take all the rest the sun goes round
,r'"
" If you think," says Sylvia, majestically, that by climbing—no great
feat, I am sure
—the Castle Rock for a piece of blue ribbon, and by paying foolish
compliments, you car make me forget my just grievance, you arc very much
mistaken !"
And then, with a crushing air, she re turns to " The Wooing O't."
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" The woman who would not be flattered when a man climbs a rock for a
ribbon which she dropped, simply for the pleasure of possessing it, and of
aggravating another man, has—has no poetry in her soul!" says Charley. "
What will make you forget your grievance, then ? Should you like to go to
the falls behind Cedar Mountain this after-
She looks up laughing — finding it impossible to keep her face in order
any longer.
" You know I should !" she says. " It is doubly mean of you to treat me in
this way, because one does not come to Arcadia to stay in the house and
read novels."
we start to the falls of the Little River, which are chief among the
sights around Buck Forest. Charley still wears his " order of merit"
conspicuously on his coat, and Mr. Lanier devotes the chief of his
attentions to Mrs. Cardigan. That lady is in the highest possible spirits,
and I think would be
perfectly happy if she could induce Sylvia to show any signs of pique. But
the latter is unaffectedly indifferent—culpably indifferent. Aunt Markham
thinks—to Mr. Lanier's defection, and her eyes shine as brightly, her
sweet laugh rings as gaily, as if his devotion was all that the heart of
woman could de-
With affairs in this condition we start—a
long cavalcade —toward the falls. Aunt
Markham, seated in state on the piazza, gives
us her blessing, but
us.
" Eric," she says, " pray take care that nobody is shot, or drowned, or
killed in any other way."
The allusion to
of the guns which several of the gentlemen carry, for the dogs are taken
along, and there are faint hopes entertained of " jumping " a deer. Eric,
who is accustomed to being addressed as a kind of general policeman,
answers with commendable gravity that he will endeavor to see that no
accident of the
we ride off.
brightly, but there are one or two ominous-
and read novels.' " looking clouds on the mountains, which make several
persons prophesy rain. We heed the prophecies as little as possible. When
people have been
at every conceivable time, it would be remarkable if they did not become
indifferent to the weather. Our way lies over Cedar Mountain—not because
it is the way to reach the falls, but rather because it is not,
" Most people follow the road," says Charley, " but that is stupid. Come
this way and we shall have the view besides."
Nobody demurs—not even Mr. Lanier
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
He seems to have resigned himself to anything that may befall him while he
is with a party who value theii neck? so lightly. Up Cedar Mountain,
therefore, we go. This imposing hill of brown rock is the first thing
which attracts the attention of the traveler who arrives at Buck Forest.
It rises boldly in the foreground, its sides only sparsely cov-
together bare. As are the sides, so is the summit. Here and there
sufficient soil has collected to nourish a forest-growth ; but for the
most part one rides or walks over immense sheets of rock, diversified by
beds of the richest moss, and tiny pools of water. The height of the
eminence is not very great, but it commands a good view of the surrounding
country, and of the mountains that stretch in azure fairness across the
far horizon. This afternoon, however, the prospect is not seen to
advantage—there are too many low-lying clouds in all directions, and over
Rich Moun-
is the expressive provincial phrase—which looks as if it meant mischief.
" There may be a storm before long," says Eric. " Shall we go back and
defer seeing
" Go back because there is a dark cloud three or four miles away?" says
Sylvia. " What an idea! No ; let us go on."
" Is that the vote of the party ? " he asks, looking round.
Yes, it is the vote of the party ; the feminine part of which is strongly
inclined to suspect the other part of wanting to secure another
uninterrupted hunt.
" If the storm comes top," says Charley, "we can find a refuge at the
Bridal-Veil Fall."
" What an odd place to find a refuge ! " says Mrs. Cardigan. " How can a
fall shelter us—unless it be on the homeopathic principle of like curing
like ? "
" You'll see when we get there how it can shelter us," says Mr. Brandon,
winding a
Having ascended the mountain on one side, we go down on the other, leaving
the sheets of rock behind, and plunging into the depths of a forest
without road or path. We are struggling through a laurel chaparral in
single fie, and I am wondering if I shall emerge without having suffered
the loss of any of my raiment, or without being pulled
from my horse, when .a vivid flash of lightning suddenly blazes around us,
and a rattling peal of thunder solids overhead.
We glance up in dismay. That the sun has been for some little time
obscured we are all aware, but the suddenness with which the cloud has
come over astonishes even those who are best acquainted with moun-
" I did not expect it so soon," says Mr. Brandon. " We must run for it, or
we shall be drenched to the skin."
" Run! where ?" asks Mr. Lanier, blankly.
"To the fall!" answers Eric, galloping ahead.
There is no time for question. Another vivid flash, another volleying
peal, show us the necessity of following as rapidly as possible. Away we
go, a string of racing equestrians, presenting altogether so ludicrous an
appearance that I find myself shaking with laughter as I bring up the
rear. It is a breathless race, under drooping boughs, through dense
thickets, over fallen trees, down declivities where a stumble would send
horse and rider rolling head-foremost. Presently we dash into something
bearing a faint resemblance to a road, and, just as the first heavy drops
of rain begin to fall, come in sight of a white sheet of water rushing
swiftly down an inclined plane of rock, failing abruptly in a beautiful
cascade, and then shooting down another rocky slope. Here our escorts draw
up their panting horses.
"Just in time !" says Charley, as he lifts Sylvia from her saddle.
The rest of us are deposited on the ground, the horses are fastened, and
then, as the rain begins to pour fast and furious, we
under rocks, until some one says, " Stoop!" and we find ourselves beneath
a great shelving rock on a level with the lower river-bed.
"Why, this is like the Black Mountain cave !" exclaims Sylvia, " only five
times as large."
" It is not near so high in the roof," says Rupert, who has given his tall
head a severe thump.
It is certainly low of roof and damp of floor, this house of Nature's
providing ; but, despite these drawbacks, it is as excellent a shelter
from storm as the heart of wayfarer could desire. Over part of the ledge
which forms the ca"e the stream pours
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
in the perpendicular fall already mentioned, (lien the rock sweeps round
parallel to the bed of the river, and under this we have taken refuge. The
bottom is covered with large fragments of stone that have fallen from
above, and on these we perch, taking care to keep our feet from the water
which is everywhere. Meanwhile, the rain is pouring in white torrents, the
lightning is flashing, and above the tumult of the fall we hear the
thunder rolling and rattling overhead.
" Is not this delightful ?" cries Sylvia, appealing to the company. "
Would you miss it for anything ? "
" I should like exceedingly to miss it," replies Mrs. Cardigan, holding up
her dress, and looking thoroughly out of honor. " I can see nothing
delightful in sitting here, for who can say how long."
" Not for very long," says Eric. " The storm is too violent to last. It
will be fair in an hour."
" An hour is a considerable time to spend in this manner," says Mr.
Lanier, dusting his ringers, which show signs of contact with the rocks.
" It is a desirable thing to be a philosopher," says Charley, seating
himself on a pile of stones, and regarding the falling rain with an
expression of complacency. "I am a philosopher. It is a matter of small
moment to me how long the ram lasts. I am ready to sit here till dark, or
to ride home through it. Meanwhile, can't we have a game of whist?"
This proposal is received with favor, but, since nobody has thought of
bringing a pack of cards, falls to the ground. There is nothing to be done
but to possess our souls in patience, to talk idly, to shiver slightly in
the damp air, and wonder when the storm will end. As soon as it abates,
Charley and Mr. Brandon go out on a ledge by the side of the river to take
an observation of the sky. They return in a moist condition, and report
another cloud coming over.
" At this rate," says Mrs. Cardigan, " when shall we get away ?"
prophesied, and the rain pours again in trains-streams do in the shortest
possible lime ; and we notice that the fall increases in volume.
" Perhaps we shall be overflowed," Rupert
cheerfully suggests. " That would be a jolly adventure."
Presently the rain ceases, and a flash of sunshine lights up leaping
water, gray rocks, and green hillsides.
"How delicious!" says Sylvia. "What a glittering scene ! Let us go out
where we
So we go out from under the shadow of the rock, and look round on the
radiant, dripping world, and up at the blue sky from which the clouds have
parted and fled. On the opposite side of the stream Cedar Mountain rises,
covered with a wealth of tangled verdure ; in front of us the Bridal Veil
sweeps down and ponds in a sheet of white foam and spray to the solid rock
on which we stand.
" If you like," says Charley, " you can go behind the fall. It will be
rather wetter than usual after such a heavy rain ; but it is the
regulation thing to do."
" Will anybody tell me," says Mrs. Cardigan, " what was the good of
keeping dry under the rock, if we are going behind the fall now to get wet
? "
" You won't get wet—only a little damp," says Mr. Brandon.
" I don't think that I care to get a ' little damp,'" she answers. "
Besides, I can see the fall very well from here."
" But you can't see the view from the other side," says Charley. Then he
turns to Sylvia. " Will you go ?" he asks.
" That is a question which may be defined as unnecessary," she answers,
drawing her water-proof over her shoulders. " Lead on !"
So he leads and she follows, while Mr. Brandon, Rupert, and I, come next.
It is a trying operation, this passing behind the fails. The space for
passage is very narrow, the wet stones are exceedingly slippery, the rock
above shelves in a manner which makes it necessary to bend nearly double,
the tumult of the falling water is almost deafening, and the spray fairly
blinding. We draw a breath of relief when we emerge on the other side.
It is beautiful enough over here, however, to repay us for the
inconvenience of the passage. The river does not altogether cover its bed,
and we walk along the inclined rock, with the current rushing swiftly by
our side and the mountain rising sheer above, covered with rhododendron,
and interspersed with tapering
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
juniper-trees and stately spruce-pines. The stream shoots rapidly down
until it drops suddenly into the loveliest pool that ever charmed the eye
of a painter. The pellucid water might serve as a bath for Diana ; rocks
draped with vines, and flowers, and shrubs, enclose it; graceful trees
lean over the crystal depths. It is a spot fit for nymphs—or lovers.
Perhaps Charley thinks so, for he insists upon taking Sylvia to it, along
a very slippery and perilous way. She does not refuse as assistance, as
she has often refused Mr.
together, and laughing gaily as a pair of children, they clamber down to
the side of the pool, and then she clasps her hands in an ecstasy of
delight.
" How beautiful! Oh, how beautiful!" I hear her say. " Charley, I should
like to stay here!"
" I am at your service," says Charley. " We'll tell the others to go back
and leave us. I shall be glad of the opportunity to utter a seasonable
word or two."
" In that case I don't think I care to stay," she answers. " A seasonable
word is one of the most unseasonable things in the world."
" Yonder is some beautiful moss," observes Mr. Brandon to me. " I'll get
it for you if you like."
I do like ; and, while he and Rupert are | scrambling up the hillside, I
watch them, and I catch such scraps of the conversation at the pool as the
following :
Charley, " I've stood a great deal, but, by Jove! I think it is time for
me to have a definite answer of some kind."
Sylvia. " Oh, dear me, Charley, what is the good of beginning like this !
You promised faithfully not to worry any more until we got home."
Charley. " I promise such a thing as that,
the time ! I'll be hanged if I did !"
Sylvia. " That was my understanding— but it does not matter. I suppose I
need not expect any peace at any time. Mr. Lanier has gone over to Mrs.
Cardigan; I think that ought to set your mind at rest about him"
Charley. " Fiddlesticks for Mrs. Cardigan ! Lanier cares no more for her
than I do! Sylvia, long as I have known you, I don't quite know what to
make of you yet. Sometimes I think you are a heartless flirt!"
Sylvia. " Thank you very much."
Charley. " Then again I feel inclined to trust you with—everything. Just
now that inclination is particularly strong. If you hold out a sign of
encouragement, I will in deluge it with the greatest pleasure."
Sylvia. " But what is' everything ? * Such an indefinite offer is rather
more alarming than gratifying. Don't tell me now, however. Let us go back,
and some other time—'
Charley. " That is what you always say ' Some other time,' but the time
never comes and I am half inclined to believe that it never will come.
This time is as good as any
Sylvia (coolly). "I never said that I did, other than ' as a younger
brother,' as I heard a sentimental lady say the other day of the man with
whom she was flirting."
I do not hear Charley's reply to this, for Mr. Brandon and Rupert return
laden with mosses and ferns, over which we hold an animated discussion
until a shout from the direction of the cave makes us turn, and we see
three handkerchiefs waving a signal of recall. Then, like Lord Mullin in
the ballad, we lift our voices and cry to Charley and Sylvia, " Come back
! come back ! "—a summons which one, at least, of them is read;
They come, and we walk on. I— loiter behind my escort in order to be sure
of finding safe footing on the treacherous rock—learn that their
conversation has not waxed more amicable.
"1 am tired of the subject!" I hear Sylvia say, petulantly, " and I will
not be browbeaten into giving; an answer when I am not ready to do so. You
must wait my time, or do without an answer at all."
Charley (whose long-suffering patience is plainly exhausted). " You mean
that I am to be kept off and on until you are tired of amusing yourself,
or until you decide to marry some rich prig like Lanier. Thanks
exceedingly, but I don't fancy the, and 1 am sure you could answer me now
if you chose to do so. We've known each othci long enough!"
Sylvia (with a sigh). " Too long for romance. There is no possibility of
the illusion that ought to accompany the tender passion. Why, I know all
your weak points a< well as you know mine !"
Charley "So much the better !
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
have less to learn after mar believe in illusions — I can't serve any good
end. I had r woman than a dozen angels. I don't see that they rather love
one Now, Sylvia, his grasp, she endeavors to dart past him — but the
stepping-stones are slippery and unstable. She loses her footing, and he
has
just one word — " Sylvia (impatiently). " I won't ! I haven't the
Bridal-Veil Fall.
any word to say—do let me
Charley (speaking with dark emphasis). " You had better tell me. I have
made up my mind not to stand this state of affairs any longer. If the
worst comes to the worst, I'll have it out with Lanier."
Sylvia (sarcastically). " Pray do! That would
By the time the convert-
we gain the fall, and Mr. Brandon says:
" Be careful where you step, and follow me exact-
I am careful, and follow him exactly—hence I emerge in safety on the
farther side ; but there are other members of the party not so fortunate.
What evil spirit possesses Charley I do not know, but he certainly pauses
midway in the pas-Sylvia, who is behind, to pause also. The torrent of
water is pouring in a cataract of foam and spray before their eyes, its
noise fills their ears. Yet the reckless young fellow absolutely seizes
his companion's hand and holds it in a vice-like pressure.
"Now," he says, " you shall answer me ! I'll not let you pass until you
do. Is it yes or no ? "
" Charley, how dare you!" cries Sylvia, amazed and indignant. " I—I won't
be bullied in this manner! Let me
" I'll let you pass the instant you say yes or no," replies Charley,
inexorably; " not
"No, then !" she cries, with all the emphasis of which she is capable
under the cir-
CHAPTER XVI.
For untold ages in this ancient land ;
Down the dread depths, as in the dawn of time, The raging cataracts their
waters urge."
THERE is no danger in the matter only the discomfort of being thoroughly
drenched and rendered almost senseless by the volume of pouring water. I
do not hear the conversation—that is reported to me later —but I have a
suspicion of what causes the delay, and I am not greatly surprised when
Charley emerges from behind the fall, bearing Sylvia's dripping figure.
"She has fallen into the water!" every-
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
body cries, and we rein toward the stone on which he places her.
But she does not ret eave us refry graciously. As soon as she is able to
gasp anything, she says:
" Why do you come and stare at me? Of course I am wet, but that ,s not
terrible. It was my own fault "—Charley's conscience-stricken expression
of countenance causes this statement, perhaps—" and I shall simply have to
go back to the hotel,"
"Indeed you must!" I say, "or you will be ill. There is not a dry thread
on
" You must take some brandy at once," says Eric, producing a flask.
" How on earth did you chance to fall?" asks Mrs. Cardigan.
" I think the sooner you start, and the faster you ride, the better," says
Mr. Lanier, solicitously.
"Suppose we all go back?" says Eric. " The rain has detained us until it
is late, and the other falls are much more difficult of access than this
one. You will find the bushes — through which you will have to break in
reaching them—very wet; and, altogether, we had better defer the remainder
of the expedition."
We all agree to this. It is late, it if wet, and Sylvia's draggled
appearance has a depressing effect upon our spirits. Poor Charley is
evidently a prey to the liveliest sentiments of remorse and regret. He
does not, as usual, assert his right to put Sylvia on her horse, and it is
only after she has been elevated to the saddle by Mr. Lanier that he rides
to her side and says :
" I can't possibly tell you how sorry I am that I should have been rude
enough to cause your accident, I offer my most sincere apologies."
"The accident does not matter at all," replies Sylvia, indifferently.
When Aunt Markham sees this young lady she is of a different opinion, and
hurries her away to change her dress, swallow hot draughts, and be coddled
generally. In the course of an hour or two, however, she emerges in as
bright looks and bright spirits as ever. I do not think that she attached
any importance to the little scene behind the fall, or the trenchant
monosyllable she was provoked into uttering • but Charley is of a
different mind, and when she appears he' -s
guilty of one of those acts of folly which eves the wisest men commit in
such matters.
" I believe this is a piece of your property—which I have no right to
retain," he says, coming up to her as she sits on the piazza, with the
rest of the party gathered in a group around, and he detaches the knot of
blue ribbon from his coat and presents it with an air of overwhelming
courtesy.
A quick flush springs to her face. She is hurt and surprised, but few
women are not able to hold their own when placed on the defensive like
this. The eyes which glance up at him have a gleam in their soft depths.
" Yes, it is mine," she answers, quietly. " Thank you for restoring it."
Then she takes the ribbon, fastens it carelessly on the side of her "
bonny-brown hair," and turns to Mr. Lanier with a smile.
" Is it the worse for passing a night on Castle Rock?" she asks.
" Not when you wear it," he answers flash of brightness lighting up his
face.
After this a return of hope plainly comes to this gentleman, and once more
he is Sylvia's loyal slave. I do not wish to say that she absolutely
encourages him, but with Charley on one side to enrage, and Mrs. Cardigan
on the other to disappoint, the temptation to do so is strong—and not
altogether resisted.
The next day we make an expedition to the other falls, and find their
beauty worthy of all praise. Where the High Fall leaps in splendor through
the dark-green woods that echo its reverberating roar, and where the
Triple Falls sweep in white cascades over successive ledges of rock, one
feels that
Along all its short course the Little River is a marvel of beauty, and the
day cannot be far distant when tourists will seek its picturesque banks as
they now seek better-known places. Indeed, nothing save its remoteness
from railroads—remoteness that would gladden Mr. Ruskin's soul, but which
has al together a contrary effect on the souls of the inhabitants of the
country—can account for the fact that this region is now so little
frequented. To artists it offers a field wild, fresh, infinitely varied,
and in some aspects scarcely less gear. d than that Western scenery which
my of them cross a continent to
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
study ; while to sportsmen its attractions are not less great. The
speckled trout fill its streams, deer still abound in the coverts of its
forests, and he who chooses to seek the wild fastnesses of the Black and
the Balsam Mountains may carry back bear-skins and bear-stories in memory
of his adventures.
We spend several days at Buck Forest, and there are other hunts, of which
the result is different from those two already recorded. No less than
three deer " die the death " out in the dewy haunts of the greenwood—two
beautiful does and a fine stag. Eric, who shot the last, presents its
antlers to Mrs. Cardigan, in fulfillment of his promise. Sylvia, however,
does not obtain the fawn for which she expressed a desire. But for that
unlucky hour at the Bridal-Veil Fall, she might perhaps obtain it; but
Charley, who alone is likely to take any degree of trouble to gratify her,
has since then stood resolutely on his dignity, and informs me
confidentially that she has no heart—only a large amount of vanity, which
he has sternly
I laugh (to myself) over this statement. I have heard something like it on
several similar occasions, though I am forced to admit that the breach
between these two seems wider and more serious now than ever before. They
treat each other with a politeness that is overpowering, but their merry
various expeditions it is no longer Charley who rides at Sylvia's side,
but always Mr. Lanier.
At the end of a week we go to Caesar's Head, which place of resort lies
over the border of South Carolina. Four thousand five hundred feet above
the ocean stands the mountain —an outlying spur of the Blue Ridge—which
bears this name because on the abrupt precipice that forms its southern
face the jagged rocks wear the rude outline of a profile, supposed (no man
can say why) to resemble that of Caesar. On the summit, open to all the
airs of heaven, stands an excellent hotel, where from June to October a
stream of visitors come and go.
From Buck Forest to this point the distance is short. We leave the former
place in the afternoon, and drive five or six miles along the road leading
to Jones's Gap, the principal highway between Transylvania and Upper South
Carolina. This gap is said to
be one of the most beautiful and the most easily crossed along the line of
the Blue Ridge; but we do not follow it far enough to judge how well its
reputation is deserved. By the time that we are fairly hemmed between the
walls of the gorge, a road turns off, ascending a mountain, and a
sign-board says " Cesar's Head."
We follow the road and wind upward for
us, through which scarcely a ray of sunlight steals, with the musical dash
of unseen water in the glens below, with feathery ferns lining the road,
and glancing streams dashing brightly across our way. So gradual is the
ascent that there is very little strain on the horses, and now and then
there are level stretches where they trot easily, and the equestrians
canter so far ahead that we only catch an occasional gleam of Sylvia's
blue veil through the interlacing foliage.
As we mount higher, the sun's level lines of gold stream into the forest -
depths and make a quivering mystery of delight through the wide-spreading
boughs, among the brown, mossy boles, in the beds of tall ferns—the woods
seem spellbound into silence by the
voluntarily Eric murmurs those lines which, old and well known as they
are, some days of this matchless season bring ever to one's
" Sweet day, so cool, so calm, so bright, The bridal of the earth and sky
! The dew shall weep thy fall to-night;
" I call it insufferable to remind one of that fact," says Mrs. Cardigan.
" As if we did not know it, or as if we cared to remember it!"
" Or as if to-morrow would not be as lovely," I chime in. " I hope nobody
will suggest that, on top of this mountain, days are ever other than
perfect. Ah, what a view! —Eric, stop the horses, pray, and tell us what
it is."
Eric stops the horses obediently, and wit!' one accord we rise in the
carriage. We have not attained the summit yet, but we feel that it can
scarcely offer anything finer than this view of heights so near at hand
that their massive proportions stand fully revealed. draped in the softest
haze. One bare rock of immense size towers among the wooded sides, and
beyond is a glimpse — only a
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ADVENTURES IN MOUNTAIN BY-WAYS.
study ; while to sportsmen its attractions are not less great. The
speckled trout fill its streams, deer still abound in the coverts of its
forests, and he who chooses to seek the wild fastnesses of the Black and
the Balsam Mountains may carry back bear-skins and bear-stories in memory
of his adventures.
We spend several days at Buck Forest, and there are other hunts, of which
the result is different from those two already recorded. No less than
three deer " die the death " out in the dewy haunts of the greenwood—two
beautiful does and a fine stag. Eric, who shot the last, presents its
antlers to Mrs. Cardigan, in fulfillment of his promise. Sylvia, however,
does not obtain the fawn for which she expressed a desire. But for that
unlucky hour at the Bridal-Veil Fall, she might perhaps obtain it; but
Charley, who alone is likely to take any degree of trouble to gratify her,
has since then stood resolutely on his dignity, and informs me
confidentially that she has no heart—only a large amount of vanity, which
he has sternly
I laugh (to myself) over this statement. I have heard something like it on
several similar occasions, though I am forced to admit that the breach
between these two seems wider and more serious now than ever before. They
treat each other with a politeness that is overpowering, but their merry
various expeditions it is no longer Charley who rides at Sylvia's side,
but always Mr. Lanier.
At the end of a week we go to Caesar's Head, which place of resort lies
over the border of South Carolina. Four thousand five hundred feet above
the ocean stands the mountain —an outlying spur of the Blue Ridge—which
bears this name because on the abrupt precipice that forms its southern
face the jagged rocks wear the rude outline of a profile, supposed (no man
can say why) to resemble that of Caesar. On the summit, open to all the
airs of heaven, stands an excellent hotel, where from June to October a
stream of visitors come and go.
From Buck Forest to this point the distance is short. We leave the former
place in the afternoon, and drive five or six miles along the road leading
to Jones's Gap, the principal highway between Transylvania and Upper South
Carolina. This gap is said to
be one of the most beautiful and the most easily crossed along the line of
the Blue Ridge; but we do not follow it far enough to judge how well its
reputation is deserved. By the time that we are fairly hemmed between the
walls of the gorge, a road turns off, ascending a mountain, and a
sign-board says " Cesar's Head."
We follow the road and wind upward for
us, through which scarcely a ray of sunlight steals, with the musical dash
of unseen water in the glens below, with feathery ferns lining the road,
and glancing streams dashing brightly across our way. So gradual is the
ascent that there is very little strain on the horses, and now and then
there are level stretches where they trot easily, and the equestrians
canter so far ahead that we only catch an occasional gleam of Sylvia's
blue veil through the interlacing foliage.
As we mount higher, the sun's level lines of gold stream into the forest -
depths and make a quivering mystery of delight through the wide-spreading
boughs, among the brown, mossy boles, in the beds of tall ferns—the woods
seem spellbound into silence by the
voluntarily Eric murmurs those lines which, old and well known as they
are, some days of this matchless season bring ever to one's
" Sweet day, so cool, so calm, so bright, The bridal of the earth and sky
! The dew shall weep thy fall to-night;
" I call it insufferable to remind one of that fact," says Mrs. Cardigan.
" As if we did not know it, or as if we cared to remember it!"
" Or as if to-morrow would not be as lovely," I chime in. " I hope nobody
will suggest that, on top of this mountain, days are ever other than
perfect. Ah, what a view! —Eric, stop the horses, pray, and tell us what
it is."
Eric stops the horses obediently, and wit!' one accord we rise in the
carriage. We have not attained the summit yet, but we feel that it can
scarcely offer anything finer than this view of heights so near at hand
that their massive proportions stand fully revealed. draped in the softest
haze. One bare rock of immense size towers among the wooded sides, and
beyond is a glimpse — only a
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" Can't one go on horseback ? " asks Sylvia.
" No—the horse was never born that could climb where you have to go ! "
This does not sound very encouraging ; but after all our experiences we do
not suffer ourselves to be dismayed by the prospect of a little hard
climbing. We only smile, and,
seated on our rocky height, with the world spread far below, watch the
beautiful evening lights, the wonderful soft shadows, shift and play over
the great landscape, with its ineffably distant horizon.
All around this horizon, as the sun drops behind the western mountains,
there comes a radiant, luminous glow — opalescent as the
any other place which abounds in such marvelous atmospheric effects as
Caesar's Head, and we are fortunate in witnessing some of the most lovely
of these. Beyond the mountains on our right, a farther palatine range
extends, and behind these the sun
goes down in glory, turning the heights to violet, edged by burning gold.
It is not here that the chief beauty of the prospect lies, however, but on
the wide plain, with its changing tints, and the transparent shimmering
belt of color that encircles its vast line of sky.
It is difficult to make up our minds to leave the scene even after the
dusk shades of twilight have begun to deepen over it, and Eric is at last
compelled to order us peremptorily to the carriages. It is a short drive
to the hotel, which stands on the crest of the mountain, with the
wonderful view visible from all its windows—a place of which to dream, for
rest, or work, or, best of all, for the recovery of lost or shattered
health.
"The air is like a tonic," people say who come here and, instead of
leaving after a hurried glance at the prospect, are wise enough to remain
for days or weeks ; yet, in truth, was ever compounded of half the
life-restoring properties which it possesses. For lightness, dry ness, and
purity, it cannot be
ulates like an elixir of vitality, and is more brill-than can be imagined.
received by the
pleasant host and hostess, and how well entertained, it is not easy to
relate—but are not these things written in the book of memory ? Truly
there are some charming havens along the journey which men call life ; and
this mountain-lodge is one of them. Aunt Markham is pleased at once by the
spotless cleanliness which distinguishes the house, the excellent and
abundant table, the ordering of the whole manage,
" I have been in many more pretentious hotels, where things were not half
so well managed," she says.
in its clearness How cordially
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We find a small company—small, because .he cool September nights, which
make us draw gladly round the blazing fires, are driving big foolish
people down to the low-country, where heat and dust still reign supreme.
It is gratifying to relate that among this company are the friends whom
Mrs. Cardigan expected to meet, and concerning whom some of us have been
incredulous. Mr. Charlton and his party are gone, and Sylvia laughs when
she learns that the DuPont's have been here.
" Fancy," she says to me, " they passed Buck Forest the day we ascended
Rich Mountain ! Don't you know that, if they had imagined for a moment
that we were there, they would have stopped?"
" It is a pity they did not," I answer. "Adele might have soothed
Charley's feelings, while Monsieur Victor could have played third string
to your bow."
She does not notice this remark.
" I wonder where they can have been all this time ? " she says, and turns
back to out hostess to inquire.
When we separate for the night, Eric asks if we wish to be waked for the
sunrise the next morning, and receives an uncompromising negative in
reply. We do not gain very much by our refusal, however, since a party
not to miss the phenomenon , and they walk about the passages at daylight,
knock loudly on each other's doors, and call upon Jane, and Eliza, and
Caroline, to wake, in tones which rouse not only Jane, Eliza, and
Caroline, but also every one else in the house.
At breakfast Aunt Markham asks what are our plans for the day,
" Our plans for the day," replies Sylvia, ' may be briefly defined. We
intend to go to the Head, and—sit there. That view is like the ocean in
two respects: first, because of its immensity ; secondly, because I feel
sure
" You are right," says a lady across the table. " I have been here six
weeks, and I do not feel any more as if I had exhausted it than I did on
the first day I came."
After breakfast we carry out this programmed : we go to the Head, and sit
there. It is (he softest and fairest of half-summer, half-autumn days,
with fleecy clouds floating in battalions across the sky, and flinging
their shadows over the far-stretching prospect. The winds which come to us
are laden
with freshness, and the varying lights and shades upon the scene make a
picture of which it is impossible to weary. We spend the morning in the
idlest fashion, climbing over the rocks, seeking shelter from the sun in
the cool shade of that cave - like which forms Caesar's mouth, sketching a
little, talking a great deal.
" I realize now," says Sylvia, " how an eagle feels when—
' Clasping the crag with hook£d hands, Close to the sun in lonely lands,
" I should not be surprised if some one of this party would add to the
resemblance by falling like a thunderbolt," says Mr. Lanier, uneasily. "
You must all have very steady heads to climb so recklessly over these
rocks. I confess it makes me exceedingly giddy."
" Then I should strongly advise you to choose the safe obscurity of the
background," says Charley. " This is not a height to be tampered with. —
Hallo, Rupert! what are you about ? "
" Only thinking of climbing this tree."
escarpments of the precipice, and looks as if it would be a dizzy perch
for an owl. Eric walks up to the young gentleman who regards it with
climbing intentions, collars, shakes;, and leads him away.
" Don't let me hear of your doing so foolhardy a thing ! " he says. " I
hoped you had more sense."
« What an admirable place this would have been for some Indian lovers to
put an end to their existence!" says Mrs. Cardigan. " I wonder they never
thought of leaping from it!"
" What a blessing that they did not!" says Sylvia.
Having devoted the morning to the Hen. t, we are conducted by our host in
the afternoon to a place a mile or two distant, called Stony Point, from
which we have an admirable view of the whole face of the mountain as it
sweeps round in a horseshoe curve, inclosing in its arms that dark forest
known as the Dismal. We realize its grandeur more strik-ingly from this
point than even from the summit, marking distinctly its great face of rock
extending for miles, and seeing that on its cliff of lookout a human
figure dwindles
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to a hardly discernible pigmy. Immediate in front of us, as we sit
enthroned broken measly Sylvia, Charley, and Mr. Lanier, are, as " '
usual, on horseback. Mrs. Cardigan sits by Eric on the seat of the wagon,
while chairs are placed behind, in country fashion, for Rupert and myself.
Now, if any one wishes to test the extreme of discomfort, let him attempt
to sit on a chair in an open vehicle of such shallow depth that it amounts
to no depth at all, and be conveyed over the steep-
dare it for a little while, then, as a particularly steep descent and
sharp curve appears before us, Rupert makes a flying leap and alights on
the ground.
" That is preferable to being pitched out, as I should have been," he
says. " You had better follow my example, Alice."
I decide before long that I will do so, for the road is simply terrible.
" It was only made last year," Eric says, by way of apology ; and Mrs.
Cardigan raises her eyebrows as she asks, "Do you call it made now?"
In fact it is not made, farther than that
and the bold face of Table Rock, with a plumage of dense forest spread
over all the intervening space, and ravishing tints of softest blues, and
purples ranging in hue from faintest mauve to richest royal, on the
splendid mountain-chain. We are on the left of the Head, and, when we turn
our gaze southward, the gleaming world of the low-country lies below us,
the weltering sun shining on the roofs and spires of Greenville, which is
the most considerable town that we overlook. The next day Eric announces
that we must go to Saluda Falls.
he says. " After that we can take our time in exploring the different
points of interest around the mountains."
Nobody demurs, so the wagon and the saddle-horses are ordered.
" It is useless to think of taking the phase- the t: ton over that road,"
Eric says, in a tone which is calculated to give one opinion of the road
indeed.
very poor
The New Road.
and undergrowth h away sufficiently to admit of the pa vehicle — if
passage it can be called wheels graze the trunks of trees been cut stage
of a hen the line the
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way, when the turns are so abrupt that only I the most careful driving
could save any wheeled conveyance from an overturn, and only the best of
springs stand the constant jolting over stumps, and roots, and stones.
Presently we reach a point where the wagon must be left, and where the
equestrians are told to dismount.
" The mountain behind Paint Rock was child's-play to that ! " says Mrs.
Cardigan, addressing Sylvia, and pointing to the height over which we have
to climb before we can obtain a glimpse of the falls.
" Not exactly child's-play — only good training," answers Sylvia, taking
off the water-proof which served her as a riding-skirt and throwing it
over her saddle.
Certainly Charley was right. Nothing which we have been called upon to
undertake before can equal this which we attempt now. Of the nearly
perpendicular ascent
language fails me to speak. Now and then —breathless with climbing,
disordered in attire — we pause and ask each other if anything that may be
in store for us can possibly repay us for such an exertion.
It is the highest possible tribute to the falls that we answer this
question unhesitatingly in the affirmative when we finally reach the point
from which their beauty fully bursts upon us.
A stream of flashing silver of white foam and misty spray, leaps in
successive cascades through a world of green foliage, over massive walls
of rock, down a mountain -gorge
with this journey from the clouds, tumbles, twirls, and surges, over the
rocks as it pours through the ravine.
The magnificence of the scene almost takes away our breath, and hushes all
terms of admiration on our lips. There are no
pertinent with the thunder of the cataract in
rs and its tumultuous splendor before our eyes. We looked for nothing half
so beautiful, half so majestic in its beauty, as this, and we feel as if
we had wandered carelessly into a sanctuary. Ail around tower the
mountains, clothed to their crests with virgin forest, far up — where the
green line of trees meets the blue of the overarching sky —we catch the
first silvery gleam of the water as it plunges downward. And we marks it
leap from point to point, over crags, amid precipices, and masses of rock,
until it reaches the piece where we stand.
" The height of the entire fall is seven hundred feet," says Eric, when he
thinks that we are all as much impressed as can be desired. " And the Veil
yonder—that lovely cascade about midway—is one hundred and fifty."
"Can one go behind that Veil?" asks Mrs. Cardigan, with a mischievous
glance at Sylvia.
" One can go behind it with a pretty good certainty of being well wetted,"
Charley answers. " I'll take you up there
But that gentleman pays no heed to the mute appeal. He is not fond of
unnecessary climbing, and has already remarked that he thinks a waterfall
can be best seen from the foot of it.
"One appreciates its height then," he says, " and really, if there was a
greater volume of water here, this would be one of the finest cataracts in
the country."
" I do not think that anything could make It more beautiful," says Sylvia,
with her head thrown hack, and her gaze fastened on the far depths, where,
over battlemented rocks, and amid a wealth of verdure, the flashing water
leaps, sending its spray and voice
And in this opinion we agree. Nothing could add to the grandeur of this
gorge, into which the slanting sunbeams scarcely pierce, and where, amid
the misty gloom, the voice of the stream unceasingly sounds, telling to
the silent earth some secret whispered first on that ancient day when time
itself had birth. We linger for hours, and at last tear ourselves
reluctantly away—pausing for one last glance after another at the plunging
water, the abounding foliage, and picturesque rocks, which form a scene so
beautiful that the most insensible sight-seer could nevei forget it.
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CHAPTER XVII.
And then- are haunts in that green land, oh : who
may dream or tell
all the shaded loveliness it hides in grot and dell, By fountains flinging
rainbow-spray on dark and
glossy leaves,
THERE is an enchanted flavor about the days that follow. They are the very
cream of all our summer idling. We are " on the hills, like gods together,
careless of mankind," and this exaltation has a charm difficult to define.
The clouds which discharge themselves upon the valleys below, while we sit
serene and secure on the moun-lain's crest, are types of many other
things. Down on that heavenly-looking plain all the vexations and troubles
of existence are rife, while we are uplifted above them, and hardly
disturb ourselves to wonder how the world is pursuing its course. We even
grow indifferent to the mails—sure sign of content !—and scarcely glance
into a newspaper.
" There is no telling when we shall be more than four thousand feet above
the sea again," says Sylvia, "so let us make the most of it."
There can be no doubt that we do make the most of it. The air of Oscar's
Head stimulates to exertions which would be
we soon become accomplished pedestrians, taking our way, alpenstocks in
hand, to all places of interest and note around the mountain. These places
are almost inexhaustible. People who come and see only the view from the
Head have no idea that they leave unseen behind them tenfold more than
that. It Is only a part—and a small part—of the abounding loveliness which
lies within reach of all who do not fear a little exertion. Being in the
midst of the Blue Ridge—which makes here its sweeping curve between the
without finding scenes of the grandest beauty, cliffs and palisades of
rock, great sweeps of wooded mountains at hand, with blue ranges afar,
fairy-like glens where the cool plash of water is never still, and the
limitless expanse of the azure low-country. But, however far we may have
wandered, however steep the way may have been, we never fail U> £3!her on
the Head when evening comes,
to watch the sun sink behind the western hills. What magical coloring we
see on land and sky at these times, what wonderful cloud-effects, what
visions of a glory that seems almost celestial, only a poet could tell,
and the poet who shall sing to the world of these fair scenes has not yet
arisen.
On an evening of this description we are scattered over the rocks, and the
sun is sinking among clouds that remind one of the cohorts of the Assyrian
king, so gorgeously are they " gleaming with purple and gold," when Mrs.
Cardigan directs our attention to a silver crescent, shining faintly out
of the sky above.
" It is good luck to see it for the first time in a clear sky. I hope the
good luck is for my journey to-morrow."
" Are you going to-morrow ? " Sylvia asks. " What a pity ! Why should you
end anything so pleasant as these golden days?"
" Because my friends are going," the lady answers, " and I don't know that
there is any reason why I should remain behind. This life is delightful,
and I dislike exceedingly to leave you all, with whom I have spent so
charming a time, but there comes an hour when all pleasant associations
must end. I have come so far with you that I wish I could induce you to
come with me now.—Mr. Mark-ham, is there no chance of such a thing ? Let
me see how many inducements I can offer' First, the North Georgia
scenery—my friends talk of stopping for a glimpse of Tallulah and
Toccata."
" I fear that we must defer seeing Tallulah and Toccata until we take our
trip next summer to the Balsam," Eric answers. " It is necessary for us to
turn our faces homeward. In a day or two we shall start for Hickory-Nut
Gap."
" These are the last days of September," says Mr. Lanier, " The summer is
very nearly ended—in fact, may be said to be ended."
" But autumn is better than summer," says Sylvia, " and I want—oh, I
desperately want—to spend October in the mountains. It is beautiful
everywhere, but it must seem divine here, when—
1... his winds blow fresh, and his sunsets flame.
The prince of the months—October.'" " There can be no don't that people,
are a rule, leave the mountains much too soon,"
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
says Eric, " but the claims business take me home, and I shall take the
rest of you."
" If they will be taken," says Mrs. Cardigan, " but I offer a warm welcome
and two - or three weeks of further idling to all deserters."
In making the offer, she looks directly at Mr. Lanier, and it strikes me
as a little odd
as he pulls his mustache.
I think—and then I look at Sylvia.
The countenance of the latter is altogether inscrutable. She is gazing
calmly into space, and, if there is a suspicion of an amused smile
dimpling the corners of her mouth, it is the only sign she gives of
appreciating the game of the fair widow.
Presently the sunset fades, and the different members of the party begin
to straggle back toward the hotel. Neither Charley nor Rupert is with us.
Two or three days before they went down to Buck Forest for hunting, and
have not yet returned. Mrs. Cardigan and Eric leave the Head first, Sylvia
lingers to watch the crescent moon brighten from silver to gold as the
glowing tints die out of the sky, and of course Mr. Lanier lingers with
her. I leave them on the rocks to go down the winding path which leads to
the mouth, remembering that I left my sketch-book there earlier in the
day.
I stay a few minutes and then climb leisurely back. When I have nearly
reached \he top, I pause in consternation. What is -.his?—Words full of
significance reach my ears. Believing that they are alone, Mr. Lanier has
plunged into his long-deferred declaration, and has plainly met his
certain rejection.
" I do not wish to press anything which '•6 unwelcome upon you," I hear
him say, in such tones of mingled mortification and pride as rarely come
from a man's lips on any other occasion, " but if you would take time to
consider—"
" It is useless," Sylvia interrupts. " You would have a right to consider
me a coquette if I gave you any hope that my answer could ever be
different from what it is now. If I have seemed to encourage you, I hope
you will pardon me. It is not always easy to know one's own mind — and I
have not known me until lately.
" And are you quite sure that you know it now ? " he asks, anxiously.
" I am quite sure," she answers, decidedly.
There is a moment's silence after this.
" Dear me !" I think, " what an uncomfortable situation for me ! Shall I
go back to the cave and try to skirt round the boulders and get away
without their seeing me?"
While I hesitate, in doubt which plan to adopt, Mr. Lanier's tones again
break on the stillness.
" I suppose that means," he says—his voice betraying all the sore jealousy
which he feels—" that Kenyon has been more fortunate than myself."
" It is not necessary," says Sylvia, haughtily, " to introduce any other
name into this —conversation. I am very sorry for the pain which I may be
forced to give you; but you must believe that my answer would b*> the same
under any circumstances."
" If he believes that" \ think, "he has less penetration than I give him
credit for."
Mr. Lanier does not believe it. If the unpleasant fact of rejection is
certain, what man is going to lose the satisfaction of believing that a
prior infatuation for some other man is the cause of it ?
" Your preference for Mr. Kenyon has been so marked," he says, stiffly, "
that others besides myself have remarked it."
" That means Mrs. Cardigan, I suppose," answers Sylvia, scornfully ; " but
may I beg to know why you thought it worth while to ask your question of a
few minutes ago, if my preference for Mr. Kenyon seemed to you so * marked
?' "
" This is becoming stormy," I think. " Really I must get away." Then I
succeed in skirting the boulders unobserved, and take my way to the hotel
through the falling dusk.
I have not been seated on the piazza fifteen minutes when the others
appear in sight—walking silently, as I observe with an inward laugh. They
bear themselves very well, however, when they join the company, who greet
them with inquiries about their late stay.
" We were watching the new moon," says Sylvia. " It is honey."
"But it has the old moon in its arms, which I have been told is a sign of
bar! weather," says Mr. Lanier.
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" How can you make such a disagreeable prophecy," says Mrs. Cardigan,"
when we all want the good weather to last until we are out of the
mountains ? "
" You will be out of them to-morrow," he says, " and on reflection I am
inclined to accompany you. I think I have had enough of the beauties of
Nature for one season."
"Indeed!" she says—and the interjection is full of significance. " In that
case you will not feel inclined to go with us to Tallulah?"
" No—only as far as Greenville," he answers. Then he turns to Eric.—"You
are going to Flat Rock, are you not?" he asks. " May I trouble you to take
my horse that
your servants can ride him, can he not ? "
" Certainly," Eric answers. " There is no difficulty about that, but I am
sorry you
" I am sorry to be obliged to do so," the
tempt at civility, " but I—ah—have business which calls me away."
After this there is nothing to be said, and consequently silence falls.
Everybody knows what has happened as well as I know it. Aunt Markham
grasps my arm with painful force, and, muttering something about
into the house and faces me solemnly.
"What does this mean?" she asks, as if / were accountable for the vagaries
of a
that Sylvia has discarded Mr. Lanier? "
" I am afraid she has," I answer. " He would hardly be likely to go away
unless
" Good Heavens!" says Aunt Markham.
her feelings being too deep for utterance. Then she shakes her head in
wrathful indignation. " The misguided girl!" she says. " I give her up 1 I
will have nothing more to do with her affairs ! She will never have a
better offer—never ! And to refuse it—for what ? "
She asks the question with tragic effect, 'jut I am not provided with an
answer ; so I only shake my head, and, since some one in at the moment,
further conversation is impossible.
Mr. Lanier adheres to his resolution, Mrs. Cardigan has the pleasure of
car-
It is a pleasure much lessened, however, by
and that everybody in the little world which she leaves behind is away of
the fact. She shrugs her shoulders aside when she bids me good-by.
" I suppose I shall have to play consol-
Can you suggest any appropriate form of consolation ?".
" I have no doubt you will soon find one," I answer—and so we part. The
last I see of Mr. Lanier he is pensively pulling the ends of his mustache,
and gazing down at his hoots. Perhaps he is reflecting on the
mountain-sides up which he has toiled, the end whereof is weariness and
disappointment.
A few days later we find it necessary to leave this dwelling in the sky.
There comes a morning when the carriages and horses stand before the door,
when the trunks and boxes, the grasses and ferns, the wraps and umbrellas,
are brought out, when hands are shaken and last words uttered, when we bid
a cordial farewell to our kind hosts, and roll away.
We pause on the Head for a view of the wonderful prospect, but a gray mist
is shrouding it—a mist which later in the day will lift with soft and
beautiful effect, and which wavers to and fro, now revealing the sea of
dark-green foliage below, and the massive outlines of the neighboring
mountains, then capriciously closing over them again ; but we cannot wait
for it to disperse.
"After all, perhaps it is better so," says Sylvia. " Nature wears a veil
in order that her loveliness may not make it too hard for us to go."
We accept this explanation and return to the carriages. Before we have
gone halfway down the mountain, all signs of mist have vanished, and the
sun is lighting up the depths of the woods with streams of gold.
The drive to Buck Forest is delightful, and when we reach the latter place
we find Charley and Rupert, who have not troubled themselves to return to
Cesar's Head, ready to join us.
"We've had glorious hunting!" the latter declares at once, while the
former brings a pair of antlers which he presents to Sylvia "You spoke as
if you might like them," he
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"THE LAND OF THE SKY;" OR,
says, " so I thought I would offer them to you. I am sorry that I have not
been able to get the fawn for which you expressed a desire."
"/ am not sorry," she answers with a laugh, " It would have been very
troublesome to carry ; but thank you for the antlers. I am glad to have
them, and I shall keep them in memory of our pleasant expedition."
While she speaks, I see that Charley is surveying the party with an
expression of surprise. After a minute he falls back, and I hear him say
to Eric :
" What the deuce has become of Latiier?"
" He went down the country a day or two ago with Mrs. Cardigan," Eric
answers. " I think he has had enough of mountains to last the rest of his
life."
Charley laughs—half amused, half scornful.
"What did such a muff ever come to them for ?" he asks.
This is all the sympathy which the muff in question obtains from the
person whom he esteems his fortunate rival. Indeed, Aunt Markham is the
only member of the party who mourns his departure. Sylvia is evi-
conciliation takes place between Charley and herself. So, in a state of
amicable good-fellowship, we bid our friends at Buck Forest farewell, and
set our horses' heads toward Hickory-Nut Gap.
The road leads us through the pass where the Little River pours in foaming
rapids down to the house where we spent the night on our way to Buck
Forest. Then we bear away to the right, and, leaving the fertile valleys
and wooded hills of Transylvania behind, ascend to the high plateau of
Henderson. The highways here are as admirable as any traveler could
desire—white arid firm, and flecked with shade. The horses appreciate them
after the hard service which they have recently seen, and carry us along
at so good a rate of speed that the afternoon is not half, gone when we
find ourselves in the midst of the settlement of Flat Rock. Country-seats
appear on all sides; avenues of white pines, beautiful park-like grounds,
surround them ; sometimes the house is invisible, and we see only the
broad gates and the sweeping carriage-drive that leads to it. There ire
signs everywhere of the rock formation.
which gives a name to the region. On the hillsides are great sheets of
brown-stone, and everything indicates that the same stone forms the
foundation of the country.
" I suppose you are aware that this is a provincial Charleston," says
Eric. " Long ago, a number of the wealthy planters of the South Carolina
coast built summer residences here, and made a society within themselves.
A spirit of change has passed over the place since the war, I understand,
and a few outsiders have come in and bought some of the residences ; but,
on the whole, it is still, socially as well as picturesquely, attractive."
" And the climate is perfect," says Aunt Markham.
There can be no doubt of this fact. Almost on a level with the summit of
the Blue Ridge lies the plateau, and though not much higher than
Asheville, its atmosphere is very much drier, owing to the absence of
streams. The peculiar brilliancy of the air,
is nowhere more marked, and the average temperature is remarkably even.
There is an excellent hotel here, which we find filled with South
Carolinians. The distinctive Charleston face appears, the distinctive
Charleston accent is heard on all sides.
" We have got back to civilization," says Aunt Markham, complacently
looking round on the carpets and easy-chairs, which we have not seen since
we left Asheville.
" If this is civilization, it seems very tame after our life in the
woods," says Sylvia, discontentedly.
" Civilization always seems tame to outlaws," remarks Charley.
" No doubt you all feel like resting this afternoon," says Eric,
addressing the company, " but we will spend to-morrow here and you may
like to visit some of the places in the neighborhood."
At this suggestion Sylvia expresses disdain.
" As if, after all that we have seen, we could care about mere parks and
pleasure-grounds !" she says.
" I shall be glad to see them," says Aunt Markham. " I may obtain an idea
for the new flower-garden at home."
Consequently we set forth the next morning on a round of sight-seeing. It
is nol worth while to record our impressions of the
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Different places to which we are conducted. Country-seats with lawns and
terraces, artificial lakes and flower-gardens blazing with brilliance, are
to be found in many parts of the world besides Flat Rock. Aunt Mark-ham is
greatly interested, but the rest of us are unequivocally bored, and find
it difficult to repress a sentiment of contempt for the " views" which we
are called upon to admire. In truth, many of these are very charming—but
they strike us as tame after the wilder scenes from which we come. This is
not the fault of the views, however, as we are magnanimous enough to
admit.
When we think of returning to the hotel, Eric says : " There is one more
place where we will go. It is called ' the old De Choicely House,' and was
built by a certain Count de Choicely, who lived in Charleston for some
years and had a summer residence here. The place has a very foreign
aspect, and was uninhabited when I heard of it last."
We turn into a disused road leading across an old field thickly set with
golden-rod and wild-asters. This leads up a gradual slope, and finally
through a fallen gate into what has obviously once been a park, but is now
an overgrown wilderness.
A wilderness of singular beauty, however —a domain so fair, so deserted,
so still, that we think of the legends of knights and ladies wandering in
enchanted woods. Shall we meet here, or Rosalind in her boyish masquerade,
or Jetties pouring out his melancholy to the trees? So we ask each other,
smiling at our own folly in associating these fables of the Old World with
this New World beauty. Yet there is something in the aspect of the wood
suggestive of such thoughts. The road which we are following has plainly
once been laid off with great care and regard to effect, but now the
untrimmed boughs droop so low over it that more than once they threaten
danger to our eyes, and the moldering leaves of many autumns are crushed
by our passing wheels.
No sign of any habitation appears as we go on, following windings and
curves which seem endless, farther and farther into the world of fairy
greenness. Golden sunshine streams softly into the gloom, crimson touches
appear here and there on the trees, ferns and mosses grow luxuriantly on
the damp hillsides, down a rocky glen a stream comes flowing in a lovely
cascade. There are traces
of paths around this, and a rustic bridge falling to decay.
Not far from this spot we obtain our first glimpse of a house through the
dense venire. A few minutes later we emerge on a broad, sunny terrace, and
find that we ha\e approached from the side a chateau of gray stone, with a
finely-arched doorway and handsome wings. The style of architecture is
altogether French, and the house appears to be in a state of very good
preservation. The doors and windows are securely fastened, so we cannot
enter ; but it is easy to tell that the rooms are spacious and lofty,
while the windows of the ground-floor are wide and tall, and open on the
terrace.
The situation is simply superb. The house faces toward the west, crowning
a hill, which, from the terrace already mentioned, slopes abruptly down
for at least a hundred feet. Below is a stretch of meadow-land, through
the midst of which a stream marked by fringing willows takes its way.
Beyond are woods rich with autumnal beauty, their
Behind are bold hills, and again behind these
" What a place to drink after-dinner coffee, and talk after-dinner gossip
!" says Sylvia, regarding the terrace with approval.
" What a place to talk sentiment by moonlight!" says Charley.
" A very good place for luncheon, I think," says Aunt Markham. —" Rupert,
bring the basket from the carriage."
" Eric, tell us, something interesting about the people who lived here,"
cries Sylvia. " Make up something if you don't know anything to tell. It
is a place which bears every appearance of having a story connected with
it. Why should it be deserted in this melon choky fashion ? Is it haunted
? "
" If so, I am not aware of the fact," say? Eric. " The Count de Choicely
was an elderly gentleman of elegant habits, who lived here—with his two
daughters, I believe—and no doubt often took coffee on this terrace."
"An elderly gentleman, indeed!" says Sylvia, with scorn. " I know better
than that. He was young, and handsome, ant! melancholy, like all poetic
exiles, with dark eyes and a fascinating smile."
" And a snuff-box," says Charley.
" Being wealthy and charming," Sylvia goes on, " he soon persuaded a young
America
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can beauty to discard countless adorers and marry him. They lived here
very happily until the arrival of a mysterious stranger from France."
" There is too much mystery in the story," says Rupert. " I object to it.
Come and take some chicken. It is very good."
" After this," proceeds the narrator, a change came over the young bride.
She seemed to shrink from her husband ; she grew pale and lost her beauty.
In the end she died mysteriously, and her ghost walks up and down this
terrace every night."
"What killed her?" asks Rupert, with his mouth full of the chicken he had
praised.
1 The loss of her beauty, probably," says Charley. " That is a death-blow
to some
" The best story - telling is that which
Sylvia. " I should like to enter this house. I have no doubt I should find
her chamber in one of those wings, with everything exactly as she left
it—even to a pair of blue-satin slippers."
" I should like to find those" says Rupert. " If you will indicate which
wing you think her chamber likely to be in, I'll climb up and break open a
window."
" I don't wonder that anybody, whether in the flesh or out of it, should
come to admire this view," says Eric, who is seated in the shade of the
arched door, with a sandwich in one hand and a chicken-wing in the other.
It is difficult to say how long we linger after luncheon is over, watching
the loveliness of the shadow-dappled scene. The beauty, the subtle
sadness, are too deep for expression. Save for the occasional notes of
birds, everything is profoundly still. The bright sunshine seems full of
pathos. On each side of the silent house is the interlacing shade of the
park—
" Now dim with shadows wandering blind. Now radiant with fair shapes of
light."
At last we wander off to explore further. Behind the house, on the slope
of a hill, we find a conservatory and grapery, with a broken flight of
steps leading to them. Both are falling to decay, the glass broken, the
flowers and vines dead. The grapery is large, and must have been
beautiful, I think, as I stand within, picturing green leaves and purple
clusters of fruit, with the sun beating warm-
ly on the glass roof. The reality is very different from this picture—a
melancholy vine with a few yellow leaves clinging to it, and a bird
distressfully fluttering to and fro. The conservatory looks quite as sad.
Round the door a few petunias have taken root and are flourishing. Sylvia
stoops and pulls one.
I want a souvenir also, but I prefer one from the house, so I turn my
steps in that direction. Over the rear of the building a growth of English
ivy spreads, climbing to the very roof. It is in bloom, and I have seldom
seen anything more beautiful than the deep green of the leaves and the
delicate tint of the blossoms against the soft gray stone. I pull a long
spray, and, thus laden, go back to the carriage where Eric is calling us.
" I am glad that we came here," says Sylvia, as we drive away. " The other
places which we have seen are only ordinary country-seats—charming enough
in their way, but thoroughly commonplace. This is a deserted castle in an
enchanted wood."
CHAPTER XVIII.
" Oh, set us down together in some place Where not a voice can break our
heaven of bliss, Where naught but rocks and I can see her face Softening
beneath the marvel of thy grace.
The golden age, the golden age come back!"
" To-DAY," says Eric, when we start from Flat Rock the next morning, " we
shall cross the Blue Ridge, and go down to the lower
"How do we cross?" asks Aunt Mark-ham. " By Hickory-Nut Gap ? "
" Partly," he answers. " We go through the Reedy Patch Gap, and come into
Hickory-Nut about a third of the way down— high enough for the grandest
scenery, however."
" If you wish to appreciate the elevation of the country," says Charley, "
observe that in approaching the Blue Ridge we shall not rise at all—but
simply travel on a level until we begin to descend the mountains."
We accordingly observe this—which, indeed, could hardly fail to be
observed by any one who either enters or leaves the transmontane region.
As we bowl along the excellent roads of Henderson, with the blue
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chain of mountains directly in our front, we I are hardly able to realize
that when evening | comes they will be no longer in front, but behind us.
The day is beautiful, an autumn crisp-ness in the air, an autumn glory in
the streaming sunshine and richly-tinted foliage. We look wistfully at the
lovely landscape as we travel onward. There is something of sadness in
saying farewell to this fair land, in ending the pleasant Bohemian
existence of the past two months, and turning our frees toward the
ordinary life which awaits u, in the world below. But we remind each other
that all summer holidays must end, and that ours has been a decided
success. It is true that we are all a half-dozen shades darker than when
we left home, but complexions are not the only things In the world to be
considered, and we have gained health
and sunburn with philosophy.
"How differently we should feel if we had gone to a fashionable
watering-place!" says Sylvia. " What unsatisfactory sensations of the
vanitas vanitatem order one has at the fag end of a season of that
description ! One has spent a great deal of
one 5 self thin, conceived a disgust for one's fellow-creatures—and had
hardly three days of real enjoyment to pay for it all!—while in Arcadia
one spends little money, needs few dresses, and enjoys one's self to the
top of one's bent! Hereafter I shall throw my cap in the air and cry '
Vive la Nature I'"
" Yes," asserts Charley. " No doubt you will—for a month. We shall see
whether | your pastoral fever lasts till next summer. I prophesy that it
will have died into ashes before that time."
" Which means, I suppose, that you are already anxious to leave me behind
when you take your hunting-trip to the Balsam," she retorts. "But I mean
to go! I give you warning of that."
"' Sufficient unto, the day is the evil thereof,' " he replies, with a
smile.
In profitable conversation like this we pass the time as we travel on,
drawing nearer and nearer to the mountains, which begin to lose their blue
tint and loom in dark, rugged masses before us. Presently we enter fairly
among them, and Eric says, as a
clear, rapid stream corned dashing in turbulent beauty across our path :
" This is Reedy Patch Creek. We shall cross It more than a dozen times
before we reach the Broad River, to which it is bound."
" Pray tell me," says Aunt Markham, "what is the origin of this name?
Reedy Patch—how absurd !"
" It seems so," says Eric. " I can throw no light on its origin, further
than that at some remote time there must have been a patch of reeds
somewhere about here."
Like all gaps, this Reedy Patch, is a narrow defile, winding through the
heart of the mountains which hem it on each side, and follows closely the
impetuous stream already mentioned. The latter pours downward in foaming
rapids and cascades, and, although forced once to turn a rude mill, for
the remainder of its way dashes uncurbed over the rocks that strew, its
course, and. crosses our road again and again, so that we have the music
of its water first on one side and then on the other. The way is wild and
beautiful, but the road is the worst which we have found in all our
wanderings. Apart from its natural disadvantages, it has been badly washed
by the heavy August rains, and altogether it is so hard on the vehicles
that John shakes his head forebodingly, and, whenever we stop to- water
the horses, he goes round and shakes all the wheels.
"Anything wrong?" asks Eric, turning to watch this operation.
" No, sir, nothing wrong yit" answers John, with, a strong emphasis on the
last word. " One of these wheels is pretty weak, though, and I don't think
it'll go much farther."
" It will, carry us down the mountain, won't it ?"
" It may" returns John, cautiously, " if the roads git better. These is
enough to tare a carriage to pieces."
" The roads will get better when we enter Hickory-Nut," says Rupert. "
Don't you
up ? "
" There's bin some heavy freshets since then," observes John, darkly.
In consequence of the weak wheel, a good deal of walking is done by the
occupants of the carriage, over those parts of the road which are
particularly bad. We wave!
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at such a slow rate of progress that our passage through the gap seems
endless. As we
beautiful with every step. Great mountains enclose us on all sides—their
tall crests towering against the blue sky, and their forest-clad sides
burning with the gorgeous tints of
Rough though the road may be, this part of the journey is a delight. The
encircling hills " clasp us in their deep repose," as they stand before,
around, behind—the farther ones wearing a faint, mauve-like haze over
their mighty shoulders. We are In the heart of the Blue Ridge, and its
heights hem us like the serried ranks, of an army.
them from a distance," says Sylvia, " but Nothing else in the world
impresses one with
her. The sea shifts: these never do. One finds one's self repeating all
the time,' Fixed as the everlasting hills.' "
" But they are not everlasting," says Eric. " Geology—"
At that word Sylvia stops her ears.
" I don't believe in geology," she says. " I believe In common-sense
and—poetry."
" Two rather incompatible things, are they not?" asks Charley.
" We shall be at the foot of the Bald — the shaking Bald — this evening,"
says Rupert. " I wish it would give us a few shakes."
" If it did you would soon become anxious to leave the neighborhood," says
Eric. " The shakes of the Bald are not trifling. I was fortunate enough to
be on the mountain when one of them occurred. It was the most severe
earthquake I ever felt, accompanied by a rumbling noise unlike any other
noise that I ever heard."
" Earthquakes are common in this region, are they not?" asks Sylvia.
" Not exactly common, but they occur at intervals. The earliest Cherokee
traditions give accounts of them, and they have often occurred since white
men have held the country. None, however, have been so long continued as
the shocks of the Bald—which rumbled and shook with slight intermissions
for more than a month."
" Whereupon all the people who lived on or near the mountain forsook their
business,
and became extremely pious—until the rambling and shaking ceased," says
Charley. " Then they forget their piety with as much celerity as they had
gained it."
" A certain Methodist preacher is said to be accountable for the whole
excitement," says Eric. " Being disgusted with the hard-heartedness of his
flock, and their insensibility to all his appeals, he desired the Lord
feet. Shortly afterward the mountain did
tenuous conversions took place."
We are strolling along the road while we talk'in this manner, the
carriages being some distance ahead, with Aunt Markham's bonnet nodding to
and fro, in testimony to the roughness of the road, over the lowered
phaeton top. Far above us rise the mountains, beside us trawls the stream,
on the banks which enclose our way glowing leaves shine, the delicate
fronds of ferns appear, tiny streams trickle, there is perpetual moisture
and perpetual shade.
Presently the carriage stops: Aunt Mark-
" It strikes me that we had better take
"Not yet," answers Eric. "It is early, and we have not passed through the
Reedy Patch. Wait till we reach the Broad River, where we enter
Hickory-Nut Gap. That will be a good halting-place, and there is a
thing for the horses."
" Very well," says Aunt Markham, resignedly, " but it is my opinion that
we shall spend the day passing through Reedy Patch."
" I hope not," says Eric.—" Now, Alice, you had better enter the carriage
for a while."
I enter accordingly, and we press on more rapidly for the next mile or
two. The de scent is now very marked, and before long we cross Reedy Patch
Creek for the last time, and reach the Broad River.
Why this stream should have such a misnomer attached to it no one can
say—further than that the early settlers of the country (in a spirit of
irony, it is supposed) named all the narrow rivers they could find "
Broad."
" First Broad and Second Broad are be-low here," says Eric. " This is
properly Rocky Broad—and you must admit that the first part of the name is
well bestowed."
"We admit that," says Sylvia, "since
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there seem to be more rocks than water in
" It is this way until it leaves the mountains," says Eric. " It rises in
this gap, and not far above here Hickory-Nut Creek flows into it. Now we
enter the grandest pass in the whole line of the Blue Ridge, and if you
can restrain your anxiety for luncheon a little longer, mother, we can
halt at a delightful wayside spring in the midst of the finest scenery."
" I can wait very easily," says Aunt Mark-ham, who does not fancy this
allusion to her appetite.
So we go on, crossing the river, and keeping it on our right as we turn
down Hickory-Nut Gap. We are not more than three miles from the foot of
the mountains, but along this three miles, as Eric has said, is some of
the finest scenery of the magnificent pass. Much as we have heard of it,
we are almost awestruck by its grandeur.
" Swannanoa is nothing, nothing to this !"
at every few steps.
everything else that we have seen is dwarfed to comparative insignificance
by the majestic beauty that surrounds us. What was the gorge of the French
Broad to these mighty mountains which rise more than two thousand feet
over our heads, and stand not more than a quarter of a mile apart, while
far down in the green chasm below us the Broad River whirls and foams
around its countless rocks? The day has now reached its zenith, and is
perfect in splendor. Our road on the eastern side of the gap, is well
shaded, but the sunlight falls broadly on the mass of varied foliage
beneath, bringing out every vivid color and jewel-like tint.
Suddenly Rupert, who is riding in front, halts abruptly and points across
the gorge.
Far up, over the top of a mountain, a stream of flashing silver falls down
the bare face of a rock, and is lost to sight amid the verdure which meets
it. The sunlight strikes the cascade with dazzling effect, and draws the
arc of a prismatic rainbow upward from its spray,
" That water," says Eric, " falls three hundred and fifty feet, and most
of it is dissolved into spray before it reaches the bottom, of the rock."
"How high is it above us?" asks Sylvia.
" About nine hundred feet. If we had time, you might climb up to it. I did
so once, but found the ascent very steep. Now see what a superb mountain
stands next! It is like a castle—only no castle was ever half so grand.
And yonder is a glimpse of the Chimney Rock. We shall see it better as we
get farther down."
We pause, enraptured and overwhelmed. A castle, indeed ! What castle ever
built by mortal hands would not seem a flimsy toy beside this immense
mountain, with its sides of solid rock, worn smooth by the floods of
uncounted centuries, and rising sheer and bare for more than a thousand
feet? On one side of this the peculiar rocks which form the Chimney
stand—so high and so apparently toppling that it seems as if the slightest
touch would send them down the precipice which they overlook.
"Here is the spring where we stop for dinner," says Eric. " This
arrangement has been a feature of Hickory-Nut Gap from time immemorial.
You find these springs scattered all along the road to the top of the
mountains."
" How pleasant and Arcadian!" says Sylvia, regarding kindly the primitive
arrangement of which he speaks. A small stream conies trickling down
through mossy rocks, and is conducted into a miniature trough of bark,
through which it flows, and pours from its mouth in a clear, inviting
thread of crystal. On the outstretched bough of a tree near by a gourd
hangs.
country," says Sylvia, gaily, filling the gourd and offering it to the
company.
None of us refuse the pledge. Even Aunt Markharn looks on past dangers and
discomforts with philosophy, and declares that she has enjoyed the
expedition very much.
The spot selected for this last of our many wayside dinners is one of the
loveliest points on the gap. The road, which is uniformly excellent—in
this respect a great contrast to the one over Swannanoa—is here arched
with shade through which the warm sunbeams quiver and dance, and fling
capricious shadows on the way. A hundred feet below the river rushes
between a world of
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picturesque foliage, the changing tints of which contrast strikingly with
the rich green of the pines, as they lift their tapering crests in all
directions. Across the narrow pass rise;; the mountain, on one side of
which the flashing cascade falls from its birthplace among the clouds, and
on the other the Chimney Rock leans into sight. Farther up the gorge great
hills stand, which have already drawn about them the blue robes of
distance.
It is no wonder that we linger, loath to go down to the lower country
which is now so near. But Eric says at last that we must go on if we wish
to see the Pools. " A visit to 'them will take us a mile or two out of our
way," he says, " and the house where I mean 'to spend the night is several
miles beyond
the gap."
On we go, therefore, and it is but a short distance farther before we pass
between the castellated heights that form the natural gateway of this most
grand of all approaches to our Eden of the Sky. One last glance up the
gorge, already draped in purple and azure, then a sharp turn of the road,
and Hickory-Nut Gap is crossed and left behind us.
It is with an absolute pang that we realize this.
" I feel inclined to turn round and go back," says Sylvia.
" Keep heart!" says Charley, in a tone of consolation. " I have entered
into negotiations for a tract of land in Transylvania, where I mean to
erect a hunting-lodge, and where any or all of the present company wilt be
welcome."
" Are you in earnest ? " asks Eric, skeptically. " I have heard nothing of
such negotiations."
" Probably not," Charley serenely answers, " since they were conducted
while you were at Caesar's Head. 'I have found a place that I think will
suit me exactly,"
" Charley, you're a trump!" cries Rupert, enthusiastically. " I'll spend
every vacation with you !"
" And, unless you object, I'll go shares in the purchase," says Eric. " I
was thinking of such a place myself."
" What is to become of us, Aunt Markham ?" demands Sylvia. " We shall
never be able to command an escort for a watering-place again."
' But I thought you had abjured watering-places ? " I observe.
" She abjured them with the saving clause, ' until I change my mind,'"
Charley re-
Not far from the gap we turn to the right, ford the river, and follow a
road which leads immediately along the foot of the mountains. On one side
the latter rise, on the other lies a fertile valley. We skirt the hills,
and reach presently a log-cabin, with its door overrun with vines, and its
tiny garden full of gaudy flowers. A man so tall that he looks altogether
out of proportion with his house comes out and bids us " drive straight
ahead'" if we want to find the Pools.
" But, if we drive farther, can we find an;-place to turn ? " Eric asks—a
very important question, since the road is of the narrowest possible
description.
" Oh, yes, plenty of places," is the reassuring reply ; so, despite a
remonstrance from John, who would prefer to halt where he is, we drive on
through some bars which Harrison has meanwhile let down.
" I wonder what them places for turning is, Mass Eric?" says John,
presently, as we jolt along a rough road with a mountain on one side and a
steep declivity on the other.
" Not far ahead, I think," replies Eric. " Here's the stream—now you can
turn."
" Let me out first," cries Aunt Markham, who has an aversion to narrow
turns.
We all alight, and follow Eric up a hill-side-path by the side of the
stream, which is a well-sized creek of crystal clearness. A more charming
glen than the one in which we find ourselves it would be impossible to
imagine. On each side the mountains rise sheer from the bed of the stream,
while between these walls of green the water rushes downward in a
succession of cascades, falling finally into three circular pools, the
sides of which are worn to the smoothness of the most carefully-polished
stone.
" That water must surely have a rotary motion," I say, " to have chiseled
out such perfect wells."
" Certainly it has a rotary motion," answers Eric. " Throw a bough in, and
you will see it drawn under, disappear for some time, and finally reappear
on the opposite side of the pool, from which it will gradually drift into
the current."
" The people here call that largest pool
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minute later, he at once begins to chase it with his stick. Sylvia
watches him in great anxiety, as, with one arm around a tree to steady
himself, he leans far over the pool and fishes indefatigably.
" I know he will fall!" she says. " It is exactly the way he did at
Lover's Retreat."
" Don't distress yourself," says Eric. "If he falls, I will go down and
fish for him"
" He's got it on the stick," says Rupert. " Now he's drawn it out. Look,
Sylvia !"
Sylvia is looking. Charley waves the hat triumphantly, then turns and
makes his way up the bank, crosses the tree, and displays the dripping
prize to its owner. Luckily, it is merely a felt hat, with no other
trimming than a band of ribbon. Therefore, when dry, it will not be much
the worse for its wetting, and its owner regards it with pride and
complacency.
" It has been down to the bottom of the bottomless pool!" she says. " What
an ad-Thank you, Charley, for restoring it to me— but what if you had
fallen in yourself?"
" Should you have cared ?" asks Charley. " By the law of reprisal, I ought
to have a ducking to pay for yours at the Bridal—"
" Why do you harp on that ? " she interrupts, impatiently. " It was not
your fault —I said that at the time."
"It was my fault for trying to force an answer which you did not care to
give," says Charley, " and you served me exactly right when you gave it as
you did."
These two are on the rocks by the fallen tree alone; the others have gone
down to the pools, and only I—who lingered on the hillside to gather some
ferns—over-
" You shall not blame yourself even for that," says Sylvia. " I deserved
all I got for being so — so contrary and provoking. A woman might at least
have the grace to tell the truth when she is asked for it."
" She may be tender-hearted about telling it, if it should chance to be an
unpleasant truth," says Charley. " Yet it is best to give a victim the
coup de grace—as you gave it to me."
' I think you are very unkind to attach importance to any pettish speech I
may have ' made at such a time as that," she answers,
stooping to gather a flower from a crevice of the rock.
" What!" says Charley. " Not attach importance to such a forcible,
downright 'No?' By Jove ! it would be an odd fellow who didn't I"
Silence follows this. Sylvia has gone as far as she can go—has said all
that a woman can say. She ends the pause by rising and extending her hand
for the bat which he is still carrying.
" If you wish to abide by it I am quite willing for you to do so," she
says, with the coldness of pride in her voice.
" If I wish to abide by it!" repeats Charley, taking the hand, while the
hat drops unheeded, and narrowly escapes floating off down-stream again.
"Do you think it likely I wish to do so—after all these years? Sylvia, you
know that I love you—that I shall love you till I die—but if you are only
drawing me back for your amusement, for God's sake, let me abide by that
"No!'"
The earnestness of this appeal—earnestness so unlike Charley that it
startled even me among the ferns—touches Sylvia. She extends her other
hand—the soft, gray eyes look at him beseechingly.
"Don't talk like that, Charley!" she says. " You make me sorrier than ever
that I uttered that foolish word. I never meant it. How could I mean it
when I love you with all my heart ? Is that enough ? "
Enough! One might have been pardoned for thinking so who saw him take her
into his arms, and then—ashamed of playing the spy— I go down the hillside
and leave them together.
"Look back!" says Eric, an hour later " The Blue Ridge is behind you."
We turn with one accord and look back as he directs. The grand, dark-blue
heights stand behind us, fold upon fold, peak overlooking peak, knob
rising beyond knob, the great crest of the famous Bald in the distance.
Harris's Pinnacle near at hand, towering needle-like in its eminence. And
behind these splendid masses the sun is sinking in clouds of ruby and
gold, while the tender young moon gazes down from the fleecy sapphire of
the upper heaven.
And so we bid farewell to the Land of the Sky.
THE END.
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D. APPLETON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.
BEATRICE WHITBY'S NOVELS.
THE AWAKENING OF MARY FENWICK. 12
mo. Paper, 50
cants; cloth,
$1.00
"Miss Whitby is far above the average novelist... This story is original
without seeming ingenious, and powerful without being overdrawn." - New
York Commercial Advertiser. "The tone of the story is pure and
wholesome, and the interest is unflagging to the very end" - Public
Opinion.
"An admirable portrayal of the development of human character under novel
experiences." - Boston Commonwealth
PART OF THE PROPERTY. 12mo. Paper, 50
cents; cloth
$1.00
"The book is a thoroughly good one. The theme is the rebellion of a
spirited girl against a match which has been arranged for her without her
knowledge or consent... It is refreshing to read a novel in which there is
not a trace of slipshod work." - London Spectator.
A MATTER OF SKILL 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00 "A very charming
love-story, whose heroine is drawn with original skill and beauty, and
whom everybody will love for her splendid if very independent character."
- Boston Home Journal
ONE REASON WHY. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00 "A remarkably well-written
story... the author makes her people speak the language of every-day life,
and a vigorous and attractive realism pervades the book." - Boston
Saturday Evening Gazette.
IN THE SUNTIME OF HER YOUTH. 12mo. Paper, 50
cents; cloth,
$1.00
"The story has a refreshing air of novelty, and the people that figure in
it are depicted with a vivacity and subtlety that are very attractive." -
Boston Beacon
MARY FENWICK'S DAUGHTER. 12mo. Paper, 50
cents; cloth,
$1.00
"A novel which will rank high among those of the present season." - Boston
Advertiser. "The story is full of activity and movement, and
the characters are well drawn." - Public Opinion.
ON THE LAKE OF LUCERNE, and Other Stories.
16mo. Boards, with
specially designed cover, 50
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"Six short stories carefully and conscientiously finished, and told with
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manner." - Boston Advertiser.
New York: D. APPLETON & CO., 72 Fifth Avenue
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D. APPLETON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.
ADA CAMBRIDGE'S NOVELS.
MY GUARDIAN. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00 "A story which
will, from first to last, enlist the sympathies of the reader by its
simplicity of style and fresh, genuine feeling... The author is au fait at
the delineation of character." - Boston
Transcript.
"The dénouements is all that the most ardent romance-reader could desire."
- Chicago Evening Journal.
THE THREE MISS KINGS. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00 "An exceedingly strong
novel. It is an Australian story, teeming with a certain calmness of
emotional power that find expression in a continual outflow of living
thought and feeling." - Boston
Times.
"The story is told with great brilliancy, the character and society
sketching is very charming, while delightful incidents and happy surprises
abound. It is a triple love story, pure in tone, and of very high
literary merit." - Chicago Herald.
NOT ALL IN VAIN. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00 "A worthy companion
to the best of the author's former efforts, and in some respects superior
to any of them." - Detroit Free
Press.
"Its surprises are as unexpected as Frank Stockton's, but they are the
surprises that are met with so constantly in human experience... A better
story has not been published in many moons." - Philadelphia Inquirer.
A MARRIAGE CEREMONY. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00. "'A Marriage Ceremony' is highly
original in conception, its action graceful through rapid, and its
characters sparkling with that life and sprightliness that have made their
author rank as a peer of delineators." - Baltimore
American.
"This story by Ada Cambridge is one of her best, and to say that is to at
once award it high praise." - Boston
Advertiser.
"It is a pleasure to read this novel." - London Athenaeum.
A LITTLE MINX. 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; cloth,
$1.00. "A thoroughly
charming new novel, which is just the finest bit of work its author has
yet accomplished." - Baltimore
American.
"The character of the versatile, resilient heroine is especially cleverly
drawn." - New York Commercial
Advertiser.
"'A Little Minx' has much clever by-play in it , and Ada Cambridge has a
clearly defined method. She knows exactly what is the objective point of
her story, and, above all, she never sermonizes, nor is she diffuse." -
New York Times.
THE ENGLISH PRESS ON ADA CAMBRIDGE'S
BOOKS
"{Many of the types of character introduced would not have disgraced
George Elliot." - Vanity Fair.
"Ada Cambridge's book is rendered attractive by the kindly spirit and fine
feeling which it evinces, by the wide and generous sympathies of its
author, and no less by her remarkable literary ability." -The Speaker.
New York: D. Appleton & CO., 72 Fifth Avenue.
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