| SONDLEY - ASHEVILLE AND
BUNCOMBE COUNTY |
| CHAPTER I |
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Asheville and Buncombe County Chapter I
DISCOVERIES OF AMERICA
THE early history of every country is wrapt in obscurity. Perhaps this
was to be expected in ancient days. But modern lands form no exception to
this observation. It has been remarked that there are few nations in Europe
or Asia which have not put forward claims to a discovery of America long
prior to that made by Columbus. One of the earliest of these claims made by
white men is that in which the Norwegian Sagas assert that in 986 A.D. some
of the Norwegians found North America. But these same Sagas relate a
discovery of still earlier date made by the Irish. They say that while the
Norwegians were on the American shores at a place which they called Vinland,
the natives told them of a country farther south and beyond what is now the
Chesapeake Bay, where there lived "white men, who clothed themselves in long
white garments, carried before them poles to which cloths were attached, and
called with a loud voice." By this the Norwegian visitors understood that
these unknown white men marched in processions and carried banners and sang
songs. In the oldest of these Sagas the present Carolinas are called "Land
of the White Men" and "Great Ireland" and "Huitra-mannaland." These Sagas
further related that, before the Norwegians saw America, and probably in
982, Ari Marsson, of the Icelandic race of Ulf the Squint-eyed, in a voyage
from Iceland, was driven to the Land of the White Men and was there
recognized by men who had come from the Orkney Islands and Iceland, and it
has even been said that Iceland was first settled by white men who had come
from this colony of Irishmen in the Carolinas.
If this story of the Land of the White Men and its Irish inhabitants be
true, this was North Carolina's first "Lost Colony."
Humboldt believed in this story of the discovery of North America by the
Norwegians, but thought that their Vinland was "the central |
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26 Asheville and Buncombe County and
southern portions of the United States of America.'7 If he was correct in
this, North Carolina in the Norwegians had a second "Lost Colony."
According to a Welsh statement, Madoc, a prince of Wales, sailed westward
from his country in 1170 and found an unknown land where, on a second
voyage, he planted a colony of his people. This settlement has been supposed
to be in the Carolinas; and it is said that among the Tuscaroras of Eastern
North Carolina once lived Indians who spoke the Welsh language.
"In 1660, Rev. Morgan Jones, a Welsh clergyman, seeking to go by land
from South Carolina to Roanoke, was captured by the Tus-carora Indians,"
then in North Carolina. "He declares that his life was spared because he
spoke Welsh, which some of the Indians understood; that he was able to
converse with them in Welsh, though with some difficulty; and that he
remained with them for months, sometimes preaching to them in Welsh. John
Williams, LL.D., who reproduced the statement of Mr. Jones in his work on
the story of Prince Madog's Emigration, published in 1791, explaining it by
assuming that Prince Madog settled in North Carolina, and that the Welsh
colony, after being weakened, was incorporated with these Indians. If we may
believe the story of Mr. Jones (and I cannot find that his veracity was
questioned at the time), it will seem necessary to accept this explanation.
It will be recollected that, in the early colony times, the Tuscaroras were
sometimes called 'White Indians.' " (J. D. Baldwin's Pre-historic Nations,
1869, 402-403.) Was this North Carolina's third "Lost Colony" ?
Whether these stories, or any of them, be accepted, the American Indians
were the first discoverers of America. At last, then, all the controversies
on the subject merely relate to the question, Who was the second or later
discoverer of America?
When Columbus set out in 1492 on his first voyage, which resulted in the
discovery of the West India Islands, he but acted in obedience to the
impulses of a spirit that was then common among the maritime peoples of
Europe. It was an age of adventure and discovery, the border line between
the two great periods of modern development, |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 27 between
the age of war and war-like adventure which had just passed its meridian and
the age of commerce and commercial adventure which had just begun. Although
by reason of his wonderful discovery and remarkable career, he was the most
eminent, he was, by no means, the first of the venturesome and restless
spirits of his century who risked the unknown perils of the sea in search of
new lands and the wild pursuits of fabulous wealth; nor was he the last of
these.
His success inflamed the more the spirit of reckless daring which already
burned so brightly. Hundreds rushed forward to retrace his course and
transcend the utmost limits which even he had reached. And when these had
found new lands, others of kindred spirit stood ready to explore and settle
them. Discovery and occupation went hand in hand. Probably at no other
period in the world's history would new-found territory have been visited at
so early a day after its discovery by such numbers of people seeking homes
upon its shores.
In 1539 Hernando De Soto, one of the Spanish conquerors of Peru,
undertook to explore the eastern part of the present United States in search
of another Peru. Starting from Tampa Bay in Florida, he marched northward
through Florida, Georgia and South Carolina and into North Carolina. Then he
turned west into the mountains, probably through Hickorynut Gap to French
Broad River, and pursued, in 1540, his journey toward the southwest until he
came to the Mississippi River; and, after some further explorations, he died
on that stream in 1542. The chief object of his search was gold. If he found
little gold he probably found where there were gold mines. In 1566 Pedro
Menendez de Aviles, the celebrated Spanish commander who drove the French
from their settlement in Florida, built a fort in South Carolina at Port
Royal, or as the Spaniards called the region Saint Helena, and named the
fort San Felipe and garrisoned it with one hundred and ten soldiers under
Stephen de las Alas. In November of that year Captain Juan Pardo was sent
from that fort with a company to explore the interior. Marching
northwestwardly and northeastwardly, Pardo came, at the end of about 300 or
350 miles, to the country of the Sara or Suala Indians. He built a fort
there and placed in it a garrison of |
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28 Asheville and Buncombe County thirty
soldiers under a sergeant. This was at Xualla where twenty-six years before
De Soto turned west into the mountains.
The chief of the Juada or Joara (Sara or Suala) Indians had renewed at
San Felipe the acquaintance which he had formed at Xualla with the Spaniards
under De Soto in 1540, and now accompanied Pardo from San Felipe. Pardo
returned to San Felipe; and in 1567, under his order the sergeant entered
the mountains and pursued the way which De Soto had taken from Xualla. Four
hundred and twenty miles of this journey brought the sergeant to Coosa
whither Pardo, by appointment, had marched to meet him. While the Spaniards
were at San Felipe they obtained gold and silver from a country in latitude
north 35^ degrees, 180 miles to the north, where were "the townes of
Otapales and Olagatanos." These towns were in a country called by the
Indians Yupaha, Aixacan, Chiquola, Chisca, Apalatci, and Onagatano; by the
Spaniards La Grand Copal or Florida; by the French New France, Louisiane
Apalche, or Apalache; by the English Virginia, and now known as Western
North Carolina. It had mines of gold, copper and silver.
In 1564 some Huguenots, sent from France through the efforts of Admiral
Coligni and commanded by Rene G. Laudonniere, formed a settlement and built
a fort in Florida on Saint John's River near its mouth, and remained there a
little more than a year, when the fort was taken and destroyed and their
settlement broken up by the Spaniards under Pedro Menendez de Aviles. While
in Florida Laudonniere collected much silver and some gold from the Indians
who claimed to have brought these metals from "the mountaines of Apalatcy."
These "mountaines" were in Western North Carolina. From the same Indians he
learned that in those mountains was to be found also "redde copper."
In 1653 an expedition from Virginia into North Carolina under Francis
Yardly's patronage learned from the Tuscarora Indians of a wealthy Spaniard
living with his family of thirty members and eight negro slaves in the
principal town of those Indians where he had |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 29
resided for seven years, and that the Haynokes or Eno Indians 'Valiantly
resisted the Spaniard's further northern attempts" in North Carolina.
In 1670 a Virginia explorer into North Carolina, named John Lederer,
ascertained from the Usheries (Catawbas) and some visiting Sara Indians
"that two days' journey and a half from hence to the southwest, a powerful
nation of bearded men were seated, which I suppose to be Spaniards, because
the Indians never have any." In 1669 Sir William Berkeley, governor of
Virginia, expected to find silver mines in North Carolina, "for certaine it
is that the Spaniard in the same degrees of latitude has found many." In
1690 James Moore, secretary of the colony settled at Charlestown in South
Carolina, made an exploring tour up the country to the mountains until he
reached a place where his Indian guides said that twenty miles away
Spaniards were mining and smelting with furnaces and bellows. Numerous
traces of mining operations in Western North Carolina before the English
came but in which iron implements (unknown to Indians) were used have been
found", some in the country of the Sara Indians near Lincolnton, some at
Kings Mountain, and some in Cherokee County which the Cherokees said had
been made by Spaniards from Florida throughout three summers until the
Cherokees killed them. Thus the Spaniards lived and mined in Western North
Carolina more than 125 years from 1540 till 1690 and later.
The first gold mine opened in the United States by English-speaking people
was the Reed mine near Charlotte. From 1793 North Carolina gold was minted
by the United States and from 1804 to 1827 all the gold produced in the
United States came from North Carolina.
In 1497, John Cabot discovered the continent of North America, and in 1498,
his son, Sebastian Cabot, explored the coast of his father's discovery from
Nova Scotia to Cape Hatteras. Almost immediately England began to claim this
land and English adventurers began to plan its exploration and colonization.
The most able, as well as the most enterprising and eminent, of these was
the famous Sir Walter Raleigh. He early conceived the scheme of colonizing
this new world, and at once entered upon the undertaking with that vigor and
daring
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30 Asheville and Buncombe County which
characterized all his enterprises. In 1584, he sent out an expedition under
Philip Amidas and Arthur Barlow. These men conducted a most prosperous trade
with the Indians of the North Carolina coast; and upon their return to
England with numerous proofs of the wonderful land which they had visited
and the wonderful people whom they had seen, Queen Elizabeth caught the
enthusiasm of the voyagers and allowed the land to be named in honor of
herself, Virginia. Strange it is, but true, that the original Virginia
should, at a later date, have lost its name to its more Northern sister and
taken from another British monarch the new name of Carolina. The next year
another expedition, sent out by Sir Walter Raleigh under Ralph Lane, founded
a colony on Roanoke Island on the coast of North Carolina. This attempt at
an English settlement in a new world was a failure; but it was, by no means,
fruitless in results, as we shall see hereafter.
Two years later another attempt was made by the indefatigable Raleigh to
effect a settlement at Roanoke Island, an attempt which resulted in that
historical mystery, "the lost colony." But again the unfortunate Raleigh was
doomed to disappointment. This man opened a way, and his fellow countrymen
soon found means to accomplish what he had endeavored, at such loss and
sacrifice, to achieve. He was, beyond question, the greatest of the founders
of the American States; and the honor which North Carolina has paid to his
memory in bestowing his name upon her capital city is a well-deserved
tribute to her greatest benefactor.
After several more efforts, a settlement was made in North Carolina which
proved to be permanent. From such beginnings arose the Old North State. She
has been charged with being always behind; yet few States can justly claim
to have kept pace with her.
Of the voyage of Amidas and Barlow to her shores Wheeler declares that,
"it was then and there 'the meteor flag' of England was first displayed in
the United States and on the sandy banks of North Carolina rested the first
Anglo-Saxon anchor."
Through Lane's expedition in 1585, she first introduced to the civilized
world Indian corn, sassafras, Irish potatoes and tobacco; or it is so
claimed. |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 31 Upon her
borders was founded the first English settlement in America.
In the far-famed "lost colony" was born and disappeared Virginia Dare,
the first child of English parentage born upon American soil.
The first gold mines worked by Americans were the Reed mines in Cabarrus
County, North Carolina.
The first battle for American independence was fought by North
Carolinians on North Carolina soil at Alamance, in resistance to the
tyrannical British Governor, Tryon, on May 16, 1771, and here was spilled
the first blood ever shed in the cause of American freedom.
In 1765, the British Parliament passed the famed Stamp Act taxing paper
and certain other articles used by the American colonies. This was a
distinct violation of a fundamental principle of the British Constitution,
forbidding taxation without representation, submission to which on the part
of these colonies would have been an unequivocal concession that they were
not entitled to the rights of English freemen. Of the reception of the
attempt to enforce this act in North Carolina her historian Wheeler says:
"This act produced a violent excitement throughout the whole country, and
in none more than in North Carolina. The Legislature was then in session,
and such was the excitement this odious measure of Parliament created among
the members, that apprehending some violent expression of popular
indignation, Governor Tryon on the 18th of May, prorogued that body after a
session of fifteen days. The speaker of the House, John Ashe, Esq., informed
Governor Tryon that this law would be resisted to blood and death. Governor
Tryon knew that the storm raged; courageous as he was, he dreaded its fury.
He did not allow the Legislature to meet during the existence of this act,
but faithful to the government, he condescended to use the arts of the
demagogue, to avoid the odium of its measures. He mingled freely with the
people, displaying profuse hospitality, and prepared dinners and feasts. But
unawed by power, the people were not to be seduced by blanishments. Early in
the year 1765, the Dilligence, a sloop of war, arrived in the Cape Fear
river with stamp paper for the use of the colony. Colonel John Ashe, of the
County of New Hanover, and |
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32 Asheville and Buncombe County Colonel
Waddell of the County of Brunswick, marched at the head of the brave sons of
these counties, to Brunswick, before which town the Dilligence was anchored,
terrified the captain, so that no attempt was made to land the paper; seized
the sloop-of-war's boat, hoisted it on a cart, fixed a mast in her, mounted
a flag and marched in triumph to Wilmington. The whole town joined in a
splendid illumination at night, and the next day these patriotic citizens
went to the Governor's house, and 'bearded the Douglas in his castle.' They
demanded of Governor Tryon to desist from all attempts to execute the stamp
act, and produce to them James Houston, who was a member of the council, an
inmate of the Governor's house, and who had been appointed by Tryon Stamp
Master for North Carolina. The governor at first refused a demand so
tumultuously made, but the haughty spirit of the representative of even
kingly power, yielding before the power of a virtuous and incensed people;
for the people prepared to burn up the palace, and with it the Governor, the
Stamp Master, and the menials of royal power. The Governor then reluctantly
produced Houston; who was seized by the people, carried to the public market
house, and forced to take a solemn oath not to attempt to execute his office
as Stamp Master. After this he was released. He returned to the palace, to
comfort his dejected and discomfited master. The people gave three cheers
and quietly dispersed. Here is an act of North Carolinians 'worthy of all
Grecian or Roman fame.' The famous Tea Party of Boston, when a number of
citizens, disguised as Indians, went on board of a ship in the harbor, and
threw overboard the tea imported in her, has been celebrated by every writer
of our National History and
'Pealed and chimed on every tongue of fame.'
"Our children are taught to read it in their early lessons; it adorns the
picture books of our nurseries, and is known in the remotest borders of the
republic. Here is an act of the sons of the 'Old North State,' not committed
on the harmless carriers of the freight, or crew of a vessel; not done under
any disguise or mask; but on the representative of royalty itself, occupying
a palace, and in open day, by men of well known person and reputation; much
more decided in its |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 33
character, more daring in its action, more important in its results; and yet
not one-half of her own sons ever read of this exploit; it is ndt even
recorded anywhere in the pages of Williamson, who is one of her historians
and who was one of the delegates from North Carolina to the Convention which
formed the Constitution of the United States; and its story is confined to
the limits of 'our own pent up Utica.' " (Wheeler's History of North
Carolina, page 50.)
On May 20, 1775, the people of Mecklenburg County, in North Carolina,
made, at Charlotte, in that county, the first declaration of independence,
as well established as the "Unanimous Declaration of the Thirteen United
States of America," at Philadelphia, on July 4, 1776.
The first open and public declaration for independence by any one colony
was that made on April 12, 1776, by the Provincial Congress of North
Carolina assembled at Halifax, when that memorable body, on motion of
Cornelius Harnett, resolved:
"That the delegates for this colony in the Continental Congress be
impowered to concur with the Delegates of the other Colonies in declaring
Independence and forming foreign alliances, reserving to this colony the
sole and exclusive right of forming a constitution and laws for this
colony."
In the late war for Southern rights North Carolina entered the struggle
with great deliberation, but having espoused the cause of the South, she
played a most important and honorable part in that tragic event. It was the
North Carolinian Henry Wyatt who fell, the first soldier to die in defence
of the Southern cause. To that cause North Carolina furnished more troops
than any other State, and to her belongs the honor of having sent to its
battle-fields fully one-fifth of the whole Confederate army. Her troops were
the first to repel the invasion of Southern soil when, on June 10, 1861,
they fought and won the initial battle, which has passed into history as the
battle of Big Bethel.
A Virginia writer, the Rev. Wm. Henry Foote, enthusiastically declared
that: "Men will not be fully able to understand Carolina till |
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34 Asheville and Buncombe County they have
opened the treasures of history and drawn forth some few particulars
respecting the origin and religious habits of the Scotch-Irish, and become
familiar with their doings previous to the Revolution—during that painful
struggle—and the succeeding years of prosperity; and Carolina will be
respected as she is known." (Foote's Sketches of North Carolina, page 83.)
The historian, George Bancroft, exclaims: "Are there any who doubt man's
capacity for self-government ? Let them study the history of North Carolina.
Its inhabitants were restless and turbulent in their imperfect submission to
a government imposed from abroad; the administration of the colony was firm,
humane and tranquil when they were left to take care of themselves. Any
government but one of their own institution was oppressive. North Carolina
was settled by the freest of the free."
When the immortal contest for American freedom which North Carolina had
first inaugurated in her public meetings, legislative assemblies and her
battle-field of Alamance, had waged for years with varying fortune, it
seemed at last that the cause of her choice was about to be crushed beneath
the superior power and resources of her enemies. Cornwallis had defeated
Gates at Camden on August 16, 1780, and well-nigh destroyed and thoroughly
demoralized his army, and two days later Tarleton had routed Sumter at
Fishing Creek, and Georgia and South Carolina were entirely overrun by the
troops of the enemy, and the American cause seemed about to expire. The
British general had begun his march northward to complete the subjugation of
North Carolina and Virginia, and end the Revolution. This seemed, under the
existing circumstances, an easy task.
At this dark crisis the Western North Carolinians conceived and organized
and, with the aid which they sought and obtained from Virginia and the
Watauga settlement, now in Tennessee, carried to glorious success at Kings
Mountain on October 7, 1780, an expedition which thwarted all the plans of
the British commander, and restored the almost lost cause of the Americans
and rendered possible its final triumph at Yorktown on October 19, 1781.
This expedition was without reward or hope of reward, undertaken and
executed by private |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 35
individuals, at their own instance, who furnished their own arms,
conveyances and supplies, bore their own expenses, achieved the victory, and
then quietly retired to their homes, leaving the benefit of their work to
all Americans, and the United States their debtors for independence.
From the men who, while others wavered and sought reconciliation with the
mother country, declared independence at Charlotte, and, when all others
despaired, retrieved at Kings Mountain the waning fortune of the war, came
the first settlers of Buncombe County. Some of her first inhabitants were
men who had actually taken part in these famous acts of patriotic daring and
sacrifice.
When the war of the Revolution began, the white occupation of North
Carolina had extended up to the Blue Ridge. Here for a time it had stopped;
and until the close of that great struggle no effort appears to have been
made for a further extension. Elsewhere the war was raging and across the
mountains much of the country was in the possession of the Cherokee Indians,
who, always hostile, were now in alliance with the British.
"According to Adair, one of the earliest settlers of South Carolina, and
who wrote of the four principal tribes (Cherokees, Shawnees, Chicasaws and
Choctaws) in 1775," says Dr. Hunter in his Sketches of Western North
Carolina, "the Cherokees derive their name from Cheera, or fire, which is
their reputed lower heaven, and hence they call their magi, Cheera-tah-gee,
men possessed of the divine fire."
CHEROKEES
These Cherokees, when they first became known to the whites, inhabited
the western part of North Carolina, the eastern part of Tennessee, the
northwestern part of South Carolina, and the northern part of Georgia. While
none of their towns appear to have been in the valleys of the Swannanoa and
the North Carolina part of the French Broad, or among the neighboring hills,
parties of Cherokees constantly roamed over that country, and at times
encamped there for no inconsiderable while. This is evident from the great
number of stone arrow heads, many of them defective and unfinished, found at
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36 Asheville and Buncombe County certain
spots in these valleys and among these hills. Among the places of encampment
of which these relics bear evidence may be mentioned the hill on which
stands the residence of the late Col. Stephen Lee in Chunn's Cove, and the
little valley at the northeastern corner of the Riverside Cemetery grounds
in Asheville. Nothing but a residence at such places for some time of a
considerable number of Indians would seem sufficient to account for the
great number of these arrow heads at one place, and the fact that many of
these are unfinished and defective would tend to show that they were made
here, since no conceivable reason could possibly exist for carrying
unfinished or broken arrow heads in quantities about the country.
There have also been found great numbers of Indian relics, consisting of
stone hatchets and other articles of stone, in the bottoms near the mouth of
the Swannanoa. Here, too, on the southern bank of the river, just below the
last branch above its mouth, once stood an Indian mound built apparently to
correspond with a natural mound at the base of the hill to the south about
two hundred yards distant. This artificial mound was opened years ago but
contained nothing except some Indian relics of the common type.
There is an old tradition that Asheville stands upon the site where,
years before the white man came, was fought a great battle between two
tribes of the aborigines, probably the Cherokees on one side and the
Shawnees or the Catawbas who were inveterate enemies and often at war with
the Cherokees on the other side. There is also a tradition that these lands
were for a long while neutral hunting grounds of these two tribes of
Cherokees and Catawbas. Probably, in the absence of something to verify
them, not much weight should be attached to such traditions. Conjecture is
always busy in accounting for physical appearances of a country, and what to
one age is surmise to the next age becomes tradition.
The most that we can know of Buncombe County before its settlement by the
Caucasians is only what can be derived from an occasional glimpse here and
there into the dark and mysterious past. Here for many years had roamed
these Cherokees, a most savage and powerful body of Indians. |
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