ASBURY VISITS

THIS was the situation of the town of Asheville when it became a municipality in its relation to the outside world, and such were its means of communication with other parts inhabited by civilized man. In the year 1800, Bishop Francis Asbury began to include the French Broad Valley in his annual visits throughout the eastern part of the United States, which extended as far west as Kentucky and Tennessee. The following extracts from his "Journal" will not be out of place just here:

"On Thursday, November 6, 1800, and the following days, we find this entry: "Thursday 6. Crossed Nolachucky at Querton's Ferry, and came to Major Craggs, 18 miles. I next day pursued my journey and arrived at the Warm Springs, not however without an ugly accident. After we had crossed the Small and Great Paint mountain, and had passed about thirty yards beyond the Paint Rock, my roan horse, lead by Mr. O'Haven, reeled and fell over, taking the chaise with him; I was called back, when I beheld the poor beast and the carriage bottom up, lodged and wedged against a sapling, which alone prevented them both being precipitated into the river. After a pretty heavy lift all was righted again, and we were pleased to find there was little damage done. Our feelings were excited more for others than ourselves. Not far off we saw clothing spread out, part of the loading of household furniture of a wagon which had overset and was thrown into the stream, and bed clothes, bedding, &c., were so wet that the poor people found it necessary to dry them on the spot. We passed the side fords of French-Broad, and came to Mr. Nelson's; our mountain march of twelve miles calmed us down for this day. My company was not agreeable here—there were too many subjects of the two great potentates of this western world—whisky, brandy. My mind was greatly distressed.

"North Carolina.—Saturday 8, 1800. We started away. The cold was severe upon the fingers. We crossed the ferry, curiously

contrived with a rope and poles, for half a mile along the banks of the river, to guide the boat by. And O the rocks! the rocks! Coming to Laurel-River, we followed the wagon ahead of us—the wagon stuck fast. Brother OTI mounted old grey—the horse fell about midway, but recovered, rose, and went safely through with his burden. We pursued our way rapidly to Ivey Creek, suffering much from heat and the roughness of the roads, and stopped at William Hunter's.

"Sabbath day, 9. We came to Thomas Foster's and held a small meeting at his house. We must bid farewell to the chaise; this mode of conveyance by no means suits the roads of this wilderness; we were obliged to keep one behind the carriage with a strap to hold by, and prevent accidents almost continually. I have health and hard labor, and a constant sense of the favor of God.

"Tobias Gibson had given notice to some of my being at Buncomb courthouse, and the society at Killyon's, in consequence of this, made an appointment for me on Tuesday, 11. We were strongly importuned to stay, which Brother Whatcoat felt inclined to do. In the meantime we had our horses shod by Philip Smith; this man, as is not infrequently the case in this country, makes wagons and works at carpentry, makes shoes for men and for horses; to which he adds, occasionally, the manufacture of saddles and hats.

"Monday, 10. Visited Squire Swains's agreeable family. On Tuesday we attended our appointment. My foundation for a sermon was Hebr. ii, 1. We had about eighty hearers; among them was Mr. Newton, a Presbyterian minister, who made the concluding prayer. We took up our journey and came to Foster's upon Swansico ISwannanoa]—company enough, and horses in a drove of thirty-three. Here we met Francis Poythress—sick of Carolina, and in the clouds. I, too, was sick. Next morning we rode to Fletcher's, on Mud Creek. The people being unexpectedly gathered together, we gave them a sermon and an exhortation. We lodged at Fletcher's.

"Thursday, 13. We crossed French Broad at Kirn's Ferry, forded Mills River, and made upwards through the barrens of Broad to Davidson's, whose name names the stream. The aged mother and daughter insisted upon giving notice for a meeting; in consequence thereof Mr. Davis, the Presbyterian minister, and several others, came together.

Brother Whatcoat was taken with a bleeding at the nose, so that necessity was laid upon me to lecture: my subject was Luke xi, 13.

"Friday, 14. We took our leave of French Broad—the lands flat and good, but rather cold. I have had an opportunity of making a tolerably correct survey of this river. It rises in the southwest, and winds along in many meanders, fifty miles notheast, receiving a number of tributary streams in its course; it then inclines westward, passing through Buncomb in North Carolina, and Green and Dandridge counties in Tennessee, in which last it is augmented by the waters of Nolachucky. Four miles above Knoxville it forms a junction with the Holston, and their united waters flow along under the name of Tennessee, giving a name to the State. We had no small labor in getting down Saleuda [Saluda]  mountain."

In October, 1801, we find this entry:

"Monday, October 5. We parted in great love; our company made twelve miles to Isaiah Harrison's, and next day reached the Warm Springs upon French Broad-River.

'Wednesday, 7. We made a push from Buncomb courthouse; man and beast felt the mighty hills. I shall calculate from Baker's to this place one hundred and twenty miles; from Philadelphia, eight hundred and twenty miles.

"Friday, 9. Yesterday and today we rest at George Swain's.

"Sabbath day, 11. Yesterday and today held quarterly meeting at Daniel Killions's, near Buncomb courthouse. I spoke from Isai. vii, 6, 7 and I Cor. vii, 1. We had some quickenings.

"Monday, 12. We came to Murroughs, upon Mud Creek; here we had a sermon from N. Snethen on Acts xiv, 15. Myself and James Douthat gave an exhortation. We had very warm weather and a long ride. At Major Britain's, near the mouth of Mills River, we found a lodging.

"Tuesday, 13. We came in haste up to elder Davidson's, refreshed man and beast, commended the family to God, and then struck into the mountain. The want of sleep, and other inconveniences, made me unwell. We came down Seleuda River, near Seleuda Mountain; it tried my lame feet and old feeble joints, French Broad, in its

meanderings, is nearly two hundred miles long; the line of its course is semi-circular; its waters are pure, rapid, and its bed generally rocky; except the Blue Ridge; it passes through all the western mountains."

Again in November, 1802, we find this entry:

''Wednesday, 3. We labored over the Ridge and the Paint Mountain ; I held on awhile, but grew afraid and dismounted, and with the help of a pine sapling, worked my way down the steepest and roughest part. I could bless God for life and limbs. Eighteen miles this day contented us; and we stopped at William Nelson's, Warm Springs. About thirty travellers having dropped in I expounded the Scriptures to them, as found in the third chapter of Romans, as equally applicable to nominal Christians, Indians, Jews and Gentiles.

"Thursday, 4. We came off about the rising of the sun—cold enough. There were six or seven heights to pass over, at the rate of five, two or one mile an hour—as this ascent or descent would permit; four hours brought us to the end of twelve miles to dinner, at Barnett's station; whence we pushed on to John [Thomas] Foster's, and after making twenty miles more, came in about the going down of the sun. On Friday and Saturday we visited from house to house.

"Sunday, 7. We had preaching at Killon's. William and M'Kendree went forward upon 'As many as are lead by the Spirit of God, they are the sons of God'; my subject was Hebr. iii, 12, 13. On Monday I parted from dear William M'Kendree. I made for Mr. Fletcher's, upon Mud Creek; he received me with great attention, and the kind offer of everything in the house necessary for the comfort of man and beast. We could not be prevailed on to tarry for the night, so we set off after dinner and he accompanied us several miles We housed for the night at the widow Johnson's. I was happy to find that in the space of two years, God had manifested his goodness and his power in the hearts of many upon the solitary banks and isolated glades of French Broad; some subjects of grace there were before, amongst Methodists, Presbyterians and Baptists. On Tuesday I dined at Benjamin Davidson's, a house I had lodged and preached at two years ago. We labored along eighteen mountain miles; eight ascent, on the west side, and as many on the east side of the mountain. The

descent of Seleuda exceeds all I know, from the Province of Maine to Kentucky and Cumberland; I had dreaded it, fearing I should not be able to walk or ride such steeps; nevertheless, with time, patience, labor, two sticks and, above all, a good Providence, I came in about five o'clock to ancient father John Douthat's, Greenville County, South Carolina."

On October, 1803, we meet with this entry:

"North Carolina. On Monday, we came off in earnest; refreshed at Isaiah Harrison's, and continued on to the Paint mountain, passing the gap newly made, which makes the road down to Paint Creek much better. I lodged with Mr. Nelson, who treated me like a minister, a Christian, and a gentleman.

"Tuesday, 25. We reached Buncombe. The road is greatly mended by changing the direction, and throwing a bridge over Ivy.

"Wednesday, 26. We called a meeting at Killion's, and a gracious season it was: my subject was I Cor. xv, 38. Sister Killion and Sister Smith, sisters in the flesh, and kindred spirits in holiness and humble obedience, are both gone to their reward in glory. On Thursday we came away in haste, crossing Swamoat [Swannanoa] at T. Foster's, the French Broad at the High [Long] Shoals, and afterward again at Beard's Bridge, and put up for the night at Andrew Mitchell's; in our route we passed two large encamping places of the I Methodists and Presbyterians: it made the country look like the Holy Land.

"Friday, 28. We came up Little River, a sister stream of French Broad: it offered some beautiful flats of land. We found a new road, I lately cut, which brought us in at the head of Little River at the old f fording place, and within hearing of the falls, a few miles off of the head of Matthews Creek, a branch of the Seleuda The waters foaming down the rocks with a descent of half a mile, make themselves heard at a great distance. I walked down the mountain after riding sixteen or eighteen miles, before breakfast, and came in about twelve o'clock to Father John Douthat's; once more I have escaped from filth, fleas,' rattlesnakes, hills, mountains, rocks, and rivers; farewell, western world—for a while!" ,

Again in October, 1805, we find the following entry:

"North Carolina. We came into North Carolina, and lodged with William Nelson, at the Hot Springs. Next day we stopped with Wilson in Buncombe. On Wednesday I breakfasted with Mr. Newton, Presbyterian minister, a man after my own mind: we took sweet counsel together. We lodged this evening at Mr. Fletcher's, Mud Creek. At Colonel Thomas's, on Thursday, we were kindly received and hospitably entertained."

Again in September, 1806, we find the following entry:

"Wednesday, 23 (24). We came to Buncombe; we were lost within a mile of Mr. 'Killon's [Killians], and were happy to get a school house to shelter us for the night. I had no fire, but a bed wherever I could find a bench; my aid, Moses Lawrence, had a bear skin, and a dirt floor to spread it on.

"Friday, 25 (26). My affliction returned:—considering the food, the labor, the lodging, the hardships I meet with and endure, it is not wonderful. Thanks be to God! we had a generous rain—may it be general through the continent!

"Saturday, 27. I rode twelve miles to Turkey Creek, to a kind of camp meeting. On the Sabbath I preached to about five hundred souls; it was an open season, and a few souls professed converting grace, ,

"Monday, 27 (29). Raining. We had dry weather during the meeting. There were eleven sermons, and many exhortations. At noon it cleared up, and gave us an opportunity of riding home: my mind enjoyed peace, but my body felt the effect of riding. On Tuesday I went to a school house to preach: I rode through Swanino River, and Cane and Hoppers [Hooper's] Creeks.

"North Carolina, Wednesday, Oct. 1. I preached at Samuel Edney's. Next day we had to cope with Little and Great Hunger mountain. Now I know what Mills Gap is, between Buncombe and Rutherford: one of the descents is like the roof of a house, for nearly a mile: I rode, I walked, I sweat, I trembled, and my old knees

failed; here are gullies and rocks, and precipices; nevertheless the way is as good as the path over the Table Mountain—bad is the best. We came upon Green River."

Again on October, 1807, we find the following entry:

"Friday, 15 (16). We reached Wampings [Warm Springs]. I suffered much today; but an hour's warm bath for my feet relieved me considerably. On Saturday we rode to Killon's.

"North Carolina—Sabbath, 18. At Buncombe courthouse I spoke from 2 Kings vii, 13, 14, 15. The people were all attention. I spent a night under the roof of my very dear brother in Christ, George Newton, a Presbyterian minister, an Israelite indeed. On Monday we made Fletcher's; next day dined at Terry's, and lodged at Edwards's. Saluda ferry brought us up on Wednesday evening."

Again on October, 1808, we find the following entry:

"On Tuesday we rode twenty miles to the Warm Springs; and next day reached Buncombe, thirty-two miles. The right way to improve a short day is to stop only to feed the horses, and let the riders meanwhile take a bite of what they have been provident enough to put into their pocket. It has been a serious October to me. I have labored and suffered; but I have lived near to God.

"North Carolina—Saturday, 29. We rested for three days past. We fell in with Jesse Richardson: he could not bear to see the fields of Buncombe deserted by militia men, who fire a shot and fly, and wheel and fire, and run again; he is a veteran who has learned to 'endure hardness like a good soldier of the Lord Jesus Christ.' On the Sunday I preached in Buncombe courthouse upon I Thess. i, 7-10, I lodged with a chief man, a Mr. Irwin. Henry Boehm went to Pigeon-Creek to preach to the Dutch."

In October, 1809, we find:

"We crossed the French Broad and fed our horses at the gate of Mr. Wootenpile [Hoodenpile]; he would accept no pay but prayer; as I had never called before he may have thought me too proud to stop. Our way now lay over dreadful roads. I found old Mr. Barnett sick: the case was a desperate one, and I gave him a grain of tartar

and a few composing drops, which procured him a sound sleep. The patient was very thankful, and would charge us nothing. Here are martyrs to whiskey. I delivered my own soul. Saturday brought us to Killion's. Eight times within nine years I have crossed these Alps. If my journal is transcribed it will be as well to give the subject as the chapter and verse of the text I preached from. Nothing like a sermon can I record. Here now am I, and have been for twenty nights, crowded by people; and the whole family striving to get round me.

"Sabbath, 20 (29). At Buncombe I spoke on Luke xiv, 10. It was a season of attention and feeling. We dined with Mr. Erwine and lodged with James Patton; how rich, how plain, how humble, and how kind! There was a sudden change in the weather on Monday; we went as far as D. Jay's. Tuesday, we moved in haste to Mud Creek, Green River Cove, on the other side of Saluda."

Again in December, 1810, we find the following entry:

"At Catahouche [Catalouche], I walked over a log. But O, the mountain—height after height, and five miles over! After crossing other streams, and losing ourselves in the woods, we came in, about nine o'clock at night, to Vater Shuck's. What an awful day! Saturday, December 1. Last night I was strongly afflicted with pain. We rode twenty-five miles to Buncombe.

"North Carolina—Sabbath, 2. Bishop M'Kendree and John M'Gee rose at five o'clock and left us to fill an appointment about twenty-five miles off. Myself and Henry Boehm went to Newton's Academy, where I preached. Brother Boehm spoke after me; and Mr. Newton, in exhortation confirmed what was said. Had I known and studied my congregation for a year, I could not have spoken more appropriately to their particular cases; this I learned from those who knew them well. We dined with Mr. Newton: he is almost a Methodist, and reminds me of dear Whatcoat—the same placidness and solemnity. We visited James Patton; this is, perhaps, the last visit to Buncombe.

"Monday. It was my province today to speak faithfully to a certain person. May she feel the force of, and profit by the truth."

Again in December, 1812, we meet with the following entry:

"Monday, December 1 (November 30). We stopped at Michael Bollen's on our route, where I gave them a discourse on Luke xi, 11, 12, 13. Why should we climb over the desperate Spring and Paint Mountains when there is such a fine new road ? We came on Tuesday a straight course to Barret's [Barnett's], dining in the woods on our way.

"North Carolina—Wednesday, December 3 (2). We went over the mountain, 22 miles, to Killon's.

"Thursday, 4 (3). Came on through Buncombe to Samuel Edney's: I preached in the evening. We have had plenty of rain lately. Friday, I rest. Occupied in reading and writing. I have great communion with God. I preached at Father Mills's."

Again in October, 1813, we meet with this entry:

"Sabbath, 24. I preached in great weakness. I am at Killion's once more. Our ride of ninety miles to Staunton bridge on Saluda river was severely felt, and the necessity of lodging at taverns made it no better.

Friday, 29. On the peaceful banks of the Saluda I write my valedictory address to the presiding elders."

Killian's, so often mentioned with different spellings in the foregoing extracts, was the residence of late Capt. I. V. Baird on Beaverdam.

The side-fords of the river, talked of above, were places where in the construction of the road down the river bank the builders encountered places at which the stream washes the foot of large precipices, usually the ends of mountain spurs. In order to pass such places the road was made to pass in the bed of the river until the precipice no longer obstructed the way. Rarely were such places of the road running in the water longer than an eighth of a mile. They were called side-fords and the road was, of course, impassable when there was a flood in the stream. Afterwards, when the recourses of the road builders were greater, a stone wall was extended in the river distant the width of the road from the precipice and the space between the wall and the precipice filled with stone and covered with earth. Later still

a way was dug and blasted through the precipice. Side-fords were very poor expedients for passing bluffs, but better than none and in some regions have been used until within the last quarter of a century.

The Thomas Foster mentioned several times by Bishop Asbury was the Captain Thomas Foster spoken of above. He was not a Methodist but a Universalist.

Francis Asbury, just quoted, was the son of some of the earliest followers of John Wesley and was born in Handsworth, Staffordshire, England, August 20, 1745. He became a Methodist at thirteen, a local preacher at sixteen, and a regular preacher at twenty-two in 1767. In 1771 John Wesley sent him to America. On October 27, 1771, he landed at Philadelphia. Next year he was made "general assistant in America" and in 1784 bishop. He began then his annual journeys of about 6000 miles each from Maine to South Carolina. He died in Spottsylvania, Virginia, March 21, 1816. His Journals were published in 1821 and again in 1852.

At the close of the Revolutionary War some of the States owned large portions of unoccupied, territory extending westward to the Mississippi River. Those States who owned no such territory were exceedingly insistent that this wild territory should be given to the general government and sold to defray unpaid expenses incurred by that government during the war. Most of the States owning such territory made such gifts. The gift of South Carolina was of the land to the westward of her present borders unto the Mississippi River and lying between Georgia and the thirty-fifth parallel of northern latitude which was, by common recognition, the southern boundary in that region of North Carolina; and the gift was made in 1787. Georgia refused to donate her western lands, which now constitute the States of Alabama and Mississippi. A controversy arose out of this, which was finally adjusted in 1802 when Georgia ceded these lands on certain terms, one of which was that the United States convey to her so much of this South Carolina cession as lay between her northern border and this thirty-fifth parallel of latitude. After this conveyance from the United States, Georgia established on this newly acquired territory a county called Walton and began a settlement there. She had sent an engineer to locate there the parallel of latitude mentioned and he had

reported that it would cross the French Broad River north of Mills's River somewhere. On much of this land North Carolina had issued grants to people who had settled there. As it was known that North Carolina claimed that the thirty-fifth parallel lay further south. Georgia, in her act creating Walton County, appointed three commissioners to meet a like number from North Carolina and determine the position of the parallel. North Carolina, having received official notice of Georgia's action, appointed a like number of commissioners. The two sets of commissioners, each accompanied by a mathematician, met at Asheville on or about June 20, 1807, and entered upon a preliminary agreement in writing. Then they proceeded up French Broad River on their task. Observations where the Georgia engineer had located the parallel showed him to have been too far north. Another observation fifteen miles further south, where South Carolina had supposed the line to cross, between the mouths of Little River and Davidson's River, proved to be still too far north. Then the commissioners went to Caesar's Head and made further observations. They were still too far north. Further work was unnecessary. South Carolina had never owned one inch of the territory which she had ceded to the United States and Georgia had no land for her County of Walton. The commissioners agreed in writing on their reports. North Carolina adopted the report and it was spread upon the minutes of Buncombe County Court. Georgia rejected the report and boldly demanded of North Carolina the appointment of a new set of commissioners. To this the answer of the latter was that the matter was settled and if Georgia violated her faith in regard to one commission she might do so equally in regard to another. Then Georgia carried the matter to the Congress of the United States where, after three years, it died. Finally Georgia, having ascertained that the report of the commissioners was correct, repealed her act creating the County of Walton, and amnesty was extended for all offences committed in this dispute by settlers, of which there had been riots and some bloodshed, especially on the French Broad River, a mile or two below the present Brevard, where a Georgia settlement had been made and the North Carolina militia had arrested the settlers and carried them to Morganton. The "Georgia War" was over.