| SONDLEY - ASHEVILLE AND
BUNCOMBE COUNTY |
| CHAPTER XIII -
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I.D. # |
TRANSCRIPTION |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 169 IN 188S occurred in Buncombe County a change in the law regulating the
care of stock raised in that region. Before that time any one who chose
to do so might turn out his cattle and hogs to seek food wherever they
could find it. Of course, this made it necessary for farmers to protect
their crops by surrounding them with fences. After a while the timber
required for fences became scarce. Then, in 1885, the law was so changed
that owners of livestock must prevent them from depredating on lands of
other people. Fences then disappeared. For economic reasons the change
was unavoidable, but the absence of fences detracted much from the
beauty of farms. Before this the fences had contributed greatly to the
appearance of agricultural districts, especially where such fences were
of planks. This was often the case, particularly along roadsides. A farm
so fenced was a great beauty in the landscape, and its roads were most
attractive to the traveller.
When carriages became less numerous and stock-driving through the
country had ceased, less attention was paid to roads and even the
turnpike companies allowed their privileges to lapse. In 1848-1849 the
State of North Carolina directed the building of the Western Turnpike
from Salisbury westward to the Georgia line. In 1854-1855 Asheville was
ordered to be the eastern terminus of this road. Then the road was
constructed, but was never a good one. When railroads arrived all care
of other roads was, for a time, abandoned. Meanwhile the streets of
Asheville, from increased use by a growing population, were in such
condition that, in seasons of winter or prolonged rains, they were often
impassable. Paving with crushed rock, obtained from the place where the
"New Reservoir" is now, was put upon some of the streets near the city's
centre and toward the depot, beginning about 1884. Then other streets
were paved with stone blocks. At last, in 1890, a system of paving was
adopted. The first of this was on that part of South Main Street from
the Public Square southward toward Southside Avenue. The material used
for this work was pavingvbricks and the contractor for the work was
General P. M. B.
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Asheville and Buncombe County 170 Young, the distinguished Confederate cavalry officer. In 1896 Mr. Caney
Brown was chairman of the Board of Commissioners of Buncombe County and
revived the matter of road improvement. He and his successor, Mr. J. E.
Rankin, did a small amount of paving with crushed rock on the road
between Asheville and Biltmore; but in 1900, when Mr. M. L. Reed was
chairman of that boa'rd, the county commenced systematically to pave its
roads and put iron and concrete bridges over the streams where the roads
crossed them.
The Western North Carolina Railroad was the first to reach Asheville.
This was in 1881. Its first depot in the place was a frame building
erected for the purpose where West Haywood Street crosses that railroad
in the vicinity of the old Smith's Bridge place. After a year or so the
present freight depot on Depot Street was built and its northern end
used for a while as a passenger station-house while the remainder of the
building was used for freight. Then the present passenger depot was
constructed. The Asheville and Spartanburg Railroad was completed to
what is now Biltmore, but then was Best, in 1886. Through the enterprise
of the late Captain C. M. McLoud. the city had a telegraph line
connecting it with Henry Station on the Western North Carolina Railroad
(now abandoned as a station) about three miles west of Old Fort, a year
before the railroad came. In 1887 the first street cars were put upon
the streets of Asheville. It was an electric trolley system from the
beginning and ran at first only from the Public Square to the present
passenger station. Its builder, a Mr. Davidson, gave a dinner at this
station when the car made its first full trip down. That trip was by way
of Southside Avenue. About one year later the streets began to be
lighted with electricity, chiefly through a tall tower or mast which
stood on the Public Square, there having theretofore been for a short
time a few gas lamps near that square. Telephones were introduced in
1886. Until about 1876 Asheville's sidewalks were exceedingly few and
short and were constructed entirely of round stones which were then
found in great plenty on or near the surface of the ground on Battery
Park hill. Then some walks were built of thick planks running
longitudinally along the street, two planks about six inches apart
constituting the sidewalk. These gave way to sidewalks of flagstones and
these to bricks and these to concrete.
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Asheville and Buncombe County 171 The road which left the present Patton Avenue at or about what is now
the head of Asheland Avenue ran southwestwardly entering the modern
Aston Park at its northeastern corner and circling with the top of the
ridge until it came to the present French Broad Avenue at about the
southeastern corner of Aston Park. That portion of this road which lay
about fifty feet to the south of what is now the Meri-wether Hospital
was used in 1865 and 1866 for a tournament ground by the young
Confederate soldiers who had just returned from the army. The first of
these tournaments were ridden only with the sabre. The rider attempted
to catch on his sabre a metal ring of about two inches in diameter
suspended loosely from the arm of an upright post, which arm projected
over the course at about half way, while the ring hung just a little
above the rider's head. At one-fourth the length of the course, one on
the right hand and the other on the left, stood by the side of the
course two posts about as high as a horse. These posts were surmounted
by large wooden balls supported on the posts by small pieces of wood six
inches long and just large enough to hold the balls. The rider ran his
horse at a rapid gallop along the course and sought as he passed to cut
these small necks with his sabre so that the balls would fall to the
ground and in the middle of the course catch the ring on the same
weapon. Later the sabre and balls were abandoned and the rider attempted
to catch one or more suspended rings with a long lance which he carried.
At this place and at about the same time was held a barbarous
"gander-pulling" in which instead of the ring was suspended a live
gander with greased neck, while every rider attempted to pull off the
bird's head. This brutal performance was never repeated. It is said to
have been practised elsewhere in early days. (See Judge Longstreet's
Georgia Scenes.) On this old field was Asheville's earliest baseball
ground. Here occurred in 1866 the first game of that kind ever played in
Buncombe County. Soon it supplanted the old "town-ball," of which it is
a modification, and later it passed largely into the hands of
professional players.
On this ground, too, which was uninclosed, were for many years
conducted picnics and other popular sports and were held political
speakings and other outdoor public gatherings. All these were by
permission of the owners of the land or without objection from them.
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Asheville and Buncombe County 172 In Asheville's early days the merchants of Buncombe Count) hauled their
goods in four-horse or six-horse wagons from Charleston, South Carolina,
and Augusta, Georgia, making annual trips and spending a month or more
in the journey. The front pair of horses or mules always was adorned
with jingling bells above their heads. Later when railroads came into
general use these merchants made their purchases in Baltimore or New
York, going in person to those markets usually every spring and every
fall for the purpose. At the close ot the war on the South Asheville was
sixty miles from the nearest point of every of three railroads,
Morganton in North Carolina, and Greenville in South Carolina and
Greeneville in Tennessee, and goods were usually hauled in wagons from
the last of these. Then the railroad from Morristown to Wolf Creek in
Tennessee was completed as far as Wolf Creek and the goods were so
brought from that place. Then the Western North Carolina Railroad
reached Marion, North Carolina, and then Old Fort and then Henry Station
and from these places, respectively, while one was the nearest railroad
station, Asheville's merchants brought their goods by wagon.
At first the money used in Buncombe County was of the English
denominations of pounds, shillings and pence and it was for pounds and
shillings that the first lots in Asheville were sold. Later occasionally
Mexican dollars, or as they were usually called "Spanish milled
dollars," were in common use. Then came the United States currency. As
late as 1872 there were in circulation in Asheville a good many silver
six-pence (six and one-fourth cents) and shilling (twelve and one-half
cents) pieces. From 1830 to 1835 two men named Bechtler of
Rutherfordton, North Carolina, obtained an act of Congress %vhich
permitted them to coin, in private coinage, gold gathered in the
piedmont portion of Western North Carolina and South Carolina and in
Northern Georgia. They produced a good many coins of the denominations
of one dollar, two and one-half dollars, and five dollars, the one
dollars being far the most numerous. These coins contained a little more
gold than their denominations called for, and were produced for many
years, constituting with Mexican silver dollars the principal money of
that region. Often they were counterfeited in brass; but, as the brass
was less easily bent than the gold, a practice grew up of test-
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Asheville and Buncombe County 173 ing the genuineness of a Bechtler coin by placing it in the crack of a
door and bending it in order to see how easily it was to bend. For this
reason most of such coins which exist have creases across them. They are
now very scarce, however, and command large premiums from collectors.
During the war on the South both the Treasurer of Buncombe
[In Picture]- Bechtler Coins
County in behalf of the State and Asheville for itself issued paper
money; the county in denominations of five, ten, fifteen, twenty,
twenty-five and fifty cents and one dollar; and the town in the same
denominations less than one dollar. But probably the greater part of the
mercantile transactions up to about 1875 was by exchanging country
produce for goods, or as these transactions were differently called,
"barter," or the customer selling his produce and "taking it out in
trade." Sometimes the merchant had two prices which he would pay for
produce, giving more when the seller agreed to "take it out in trade."
Asheville never had a complete market house until the present building
called the City Hall was erected in 1892 ; but ever mercantile
establishment, except a drug store, was a general store which sold all |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 174
[In Picture] - Asheville Confederate Currency |
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Asheville and Buncombe County 175 kinds of goods and bought all kinds of country produce, although for a
short time before that market-house was built there was in the city a
sort of market-house.
Asheville's first burying-ground was at the southeast corner of Eagle
Street and Market Street, but later on this was changed to a
burying-ground on the east side of the present Church Street between the
Presbyterian Church and Aston Street. Then in 1865 a Methodist
burying-ground was established on the western side of Church Street
immediately south of the Central Methodist Episcopal Church, South,
church building. There were also some burials in the churchyard of
Trinity Episcopal Church immediately south of that church building on
the eastern side of Church Street, and some on the same side of that
street immediately north of the Presbyterian Church. All these graves on
Church Street, with the exception of that of James Patton, were removed
to Riverside Cemetery when it was established in 1885 by the Asheville
Cemetery Company incorporated on August 4th of that year. In this way it
came about that many graves in Riverside Cemetery contain bodies which
were removed to it from other burying-grounds and some of which have
been removed twice. Among the latter is the grave marked by the oldest
tombstone in that cemetery. It is that of John Lyon, the distinguished
English botanist, "a gentleman through whose industry and skill more new
and rare American plants have Lately been introduced into Europe than
through all other channels
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Asheville and Buncombe County 176 whatever." John Lyon died of consumption in the old Swain Building on
the eastern side of South Main Street, in September, 1814, at the age of
49, a lonely stranger in a strange land among strangers thousands of
miles across the Atlantic Ocean from any relative, but cared for by
strangers with great tenderness. His body was buried in the old
burying-ground east of Market Street and removed thence to the old
Presbyterian graveyard east of Church Street and finally to its resting
place in Riverside Cemetery near the southeastern corner. No doubt the
oldest burying-ground in the county is the Shawano Indian burying-ground
on the eastern banks of French Broad River about one mile above the
mouth of Swannanoa River. Probably the oldest burying-ground of white
people in the county is the old Robert Patton burying-ground near the
town of Swannanoa. The Newton Academy graveyard is now the oldest
graveyard in Asheville; but the oldest graves in Asheville were the
"Indian Graves" on Patton Avenue, immediately west of the crossing of
Lexington Avenue, which were used as a landmark to indicate the place
selected for Buncombe's county town. This and the other circumstances
attendant upon the making of that location seem to disprove the old
story told about that location, as about the location of other towns,
that the commissioners determined to put the town at the bar-room at
which they had met for the purpose of drinking and had been drinking.
There was no bar-room where they determined should be the site of the
county town of Buncombe. Had there been, it would have been called for
in making the location. The more detailed story that the bar-room was at
a, cross-roads where the proporietor professed to be deaf and would ask
every traveller who stopped to inquire his way whether he said that he
wanted a whiskey or brandy, is equally set at rest in the same way.
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