CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER - MEXICAN NOTES (pp.155-304)
  I. From El Paso to the City of Mexico  
  155 MEXICAN NOTES.

MEXICAN NOTES.

I. — FROM EL PASO TO THE CITY OF MEXICO.

Naturally one shrinks a little from writing about Mexico after passing less than two months in its vast territory. There is so much to be said, and there are so many qualifications to be made to whatever is said. The longer one remains there tlie more he will hesitate to put down even his impressions, and I fancy that in time one would abandon altogether any attempt to write out his conflicting ideas: so much depends upon the temper, the temperament, the tastes, the endurance, of the traveler. One person returns from a trip through Mexico in a glow of enthusiasm, interested in the people, enchanted with the climate, full of wonder over the scenery; another, weary with the long journeying, disgusted with the people, half starved by the unaccustomed diet, admits that the scenery is wonderful, though it is monotonous, and that the climate — except that the coast is too warm and the highland air is too rare — is delicious, and is heartily glad that the expedition has been made and is over.

 

 
156

To me Mexico is one of the most interesting countries I have seen, and so novel on every hand that I enjoyed in a way that which is disagreeable almost as much as that which is pleasing. It is novel, and yet, now and again, strangely familiar; for in its life it is a patchwork sort of country, with

a degraded civilization, constantly suggesting, in a second-hand way, a half-dozen other countries and peoples. I spent most of my time outside the city of Mexico — for it is not there that the life, except a certain sort of artificial society life, is more advantageously to be studied — and in these papers I purpose to touch upon general life and manners and aspects of nature that came under my observation, with the intention of replying to some of the questions that a returning traveler is commonly asked about the pseudo-republic.1

Everything is on a vast scale. High ranges of bare mountains running parallel for hundreds of miles, with plains between, often stony and inhospitable, often good grazing land, verdure- clad under the summer rains, but brown and barren, except when irrigated, through the long rainless reason from October to June — this is the general character of the highlands. Vast- ness is not picturesqueness, but those who pre-


1 The journey was made in February and March, 1877.

 
157

fer the Sierra sort of scenery which characterizes our own Great West to that of the New England and the Blue Ridge like it. Descending from the mountains about the city of Mexico in any direction to the coast by a succession of terraces, one has scenery of a different sort, but still grandiose, and any warmth of temperature desired.

Entering the country by the gate of El Paso — a gate of ash - heaps for hills, and sand, through which the Rio Grande sprawls over quicksands — one has still twelve hundred miles to traverse — two days and a half by rail — before reaching the city of Mexico. The road runs mainly through valleys with low hills on either side ; but it is by no means a highland level; the road is constantly ascending and descending. Starting from a height of 3700 feet above the sea at El Paso, and never descending below this level, some high mountains are climbed on the way. The course is generally upward until the mountain silver-mining city of Zacatecas comes in view, about 8000 feet above the sea. From here there is a sharp descent, but a high level is generally maintained till Marguez is reached, when the lost height is recovered in something over 8000 feet, and a descent made into the Tula Valley, the scenery and vegetation be-

 
158    
  159    
  160    
  161    
  162    
  163    
  164    
  165    
  166    
  167    
  168    
  169    
  170    
  171    
  172    
  173    
  174    
  175    
  176    
  177    
  24    
  25    
  26    
  27    
  28    
  29    
30  
31  
32  
33  
34  
35  
36  
37  
38  
39  
40  
41  
42  
43  
44  
45  
46  
47  
48  
49  
50  
51  
52  
53  
54  
55  
56  
57  
58  
59  
60  
61  
62  
63  
64  
65  
66  
67  
68  
69  
70  
71  
72  
73  
74  
75  
76  
77  
78  
79  
80  
81  
82  
83  
       
       
       
     
     
84