| The Heart of the Alleghenies | |||
| Chapter 3 -The Valley of the Noon-Day Sun | |||
| THE VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN The Nantihala [Nantahala] -- Woodland Scenes -- Monday's -- Franklin -- Evening on the Little Tennessee -- The Alleghanies' Grandest Highway -- The Valley River Range -- Lonley Wilds -- The Prince of Sluggards -- Murphy -- A Swiss Landscape -- An Animated Guide-post -- At the "Hoe-Down" -- Apprehensions of Harm -- A jug in My Hands -- Pine Torches -- The Shooting Match -- "Hoss-Swoppers" -- Discouraging Comments -- The Fawning Politician -- Cat-Stairs -- The Anderson Roughs -- Campbell's Cabin -- NoWash-Basin -- The Devil's Chin -- Soapstone and Marble Quarries -- A Stinging Reception -- Deer -- A "Corn-cracker" -- Robbinsville |
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| page 79 | "In pomp of forest, purity of water, beauty of sky..the valley of the Nantihala river is not surpassed by any region of the Alleghanies." Nantihala river ; Alleghanies | ||
| page 80 | "By some it is said to mean Noon-day Sun, from the fact of the mountains hugging it so closely that the sunlight strikes it only during the middle of the day." Nantihala (Nanteyaleh) ; Standing Indian ; Chunky Gal mountain ; Blue Ridge ; Little Tennessee ; Valley River | ||
| page 81 | "If you are not afraid of ice cold water, a swim here would be most enjoyable, but even at noon in July or August, the temperature of the stream is near the freezing point." | ||
| page 82 | [Illustration] THE WARRIOR BALD
"Let it be on a summer evening, just as the shadows have crept across the landscape." Nantihala ; Valley River ; Little Tennessee ; Warrior Bald |
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| page 83 | "Franklin is a growing town. This is due to the fact of its being in the center of a farming and mining country." Nantihala ; Savannah | ||
| page 84 | "Higher spurs of the Nantihalas shoot up in rugged magnificence across the gorge that falls away from the brow of the peak on which the highway winds." Nantihala ; Cowee mountains | ||
| page 85 | "These falls, on account of their inaccessibility, are seldom visited, except by the cattle herder and hunter." Valley River mountains | ||
| page 86 | "From four to ten children, all about the same size, clustered along the fence, will excited wonder as to how they have lived so long." | ||
| page 87 | "Lazy men can be found in all countries; but no lazier specimen of humanity ever lived than one existing at present near the Tuckasege in Jackson county." Tuckasege | ||
| page 88 | "Down further on the Valley river the landscape grows more open, and the rugged mountains become softened down to undulating hills." Valley River ; Cherokee ; Western North Carolina Railroad | ||
| page 89 | "Soon it comes to an end, and a firmer, though rough, road leads into an open forest, and gradually descends a narrow valley between prodigiously high mountains." Red Marble gap ; Nantihala ; Cheowah Mountain | ||
| page 90 | "The social ties between the young folks are kept warm principally by the old-fashioned hoe-downs." Nantihala | ||
| page 91 | "The characters of most interest to all present were two good-natured-looking young men dressed in biled shirts, green neckties, 'store-boughten' coats, and homespun pantaloons." | ||
| page 92 | "The tune was one of the liveliest jigs imaginable, and the musicians sang as they played. The dancers courtesied [sic] and then began a singular dance." | ||
| page 93 | "Now and then, one of the boisterous mountaineers would fire off his pistol, giving rise to shrill screams from the fair sex, loud laughs from their partners, and causing the mules to jump in a manner terrifying to their riders." | ||
| page 94 | "Notice of the proposed match is communicated to the settlers; and, on the stated day, the adepts in the use of shooting-irons, assemble, with their cap and flintlock rifles, at the place of contest." | ||
| page 95 | "He (the hoss-swopper) rides the result of his last sharp bargain into the group...until another mountaineer, with like trading propensities, strides up to him." | ||
| page 96 | "At sixty yards from the white piece of black-centered paper, the shooter lays himself flat...he takes deliberate aim and pulls the trigger." | ||
| page 97 | "Barking a squirrel is one of the fine arts. The hunter takes aim and fires at the upper edge of the limb on which the squirrel sits, instantly killing him from concussion created by the splintered bark." Cheowah mountain ; Little Tennessee ; Nantihala [Nantahala] ; Cat's Stairs ; Anderson Roughs But let us pursue the river from the Cheowah mountain to the Little Tennessee. It is a distance of twelve miles, and not once do the road and stream part company. At Widow Nelsons's it is a white winding-sheet of rapids, as far as the eye can reach. A hundred yards by the house, and the mountains draw themselves together again. The road straggles around the foot of a cliff. The waters roar and splash beside it. Overhead, the foliage is of a brilliant green, and the sky usually a transparent blue. By the dilapidated dwelling of Widow Jarett you soon pass. There is a cleared tract of land here. Across the river, with its foot in the water, one of the Nantihala range towers 2,000 feet above the valley. You must lean back to look upward along its green face and see the edge of the summit. Up one steep ravine is a trail leading to Brier Town. It is termed the Cat's Stairs. Your mule must be dragged by the bridle if you attempt the ascent. Three miles down the stream, as you issue from the forest on the brow of a gentle declivity, a wild picture lies spread before the eyes. You are looking across a long pent-in vale. On one side the Anderson Roughs, lofty and impending, with steep ridges, one behind the other, descending to the river, reach away to where the blue sky dips in between them and the last visible perpendicular wall that frowns along the valley's opposite softened by the vision of Campbell's lowly cabin in the center of the narrow corn-fields. You see the smoke above its blackened roof; several uncombed children tumbling in the sunshine; the rail fence close by its frail porch; and, beyond it, the limpid Nantihala, smooth and turbulent alternately, and filling the ears with its loud monotone. (See Frontispiece.) "Buck" Campbell is a whole-souled fellow; his wife, a pleasant woman. If you have time, stop here. Excepting the good-natured bearing of the mountaineer and his wife, you will see nothing inviting about the place, until the table is set for supper, out in the open air, at one end of the cabin. The meal will be an appetizing one. Between each bite you take of a smoking piece of corn-dodger, you can look up at the shadowed front of the Anderson Roughs (for long since the western wall had intercepted the sunlight from pouring on it), and watch how the shadows thicken, while still the sky is bright and clear above. The signification of noon-day sun, as applied to the river, will strike you forcibly. Late in the morning and early in the evening the valley is in shade. There is but one room in the cabin, consequently you will all sleep together, and awake in the morning felling that there is something in the humblest path of life to keep a man happy. |
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| page 98 |
"Every morning, except in winter, a heavy fog fills the valley. This is unfavorable for the cultivation of small grain, consequently corn is the only profitable production on the Nantihala [Nantahala]. Issuing from the cabin, you jump the fence and go to the river to perform your ablutions. A tin basin is not one of Campbell's possessions. You are sure of clean water, however; and, leaning over the river's bosom, you have something to act as a mirror, while you comb your hair with your fingers. If you yell for it, a towel will be brought by one of a pair of black-eyed youngsters, fondly called "Dutch" and "Curly" by their father. Campbell says he believes in nicknaming his children; for he does not see why they should go by their proper names any more than people should call him "Buck," instead of Alexander. By 9 o'clock the mist has rolled itself in clouds and drifted up the heights, a belt of sunshine is half way down the mountain on the west, and day has fairly dawned. If it is in the early fall, the drum of the pheasant may be heard from the near woods. The quail has ceased his piping for the season, but he has by no means migrated, as one might infer from his silence; for if you stroll through the fields, great bevies will frequently rise from your feet and start in all directions with such a whirr of wings that you will jump in spite of yourself. I have started wood-cock in the wet tangles of the mountain streams, but they are rare birds. ..." |
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| page 99 | "Only two houses are between Campbell's and the mouth of the river, ten miles below. This sort of solitude is not infrequent on a highway across a mountain range." | ||
| page 100 | "At every road-working the gaps between the rocks are filled up, but the next freshet carries away the filling. It is not advisable to attempt a journey over it, except on horseback or a-foot." Western North Carolina railroad | ||
| page 101 | "The scenery for the next four miles is a series in close succession of views...valley between the mountains...much deeper than that of any other mountain river." Rip Van Winkle ; French Broad ; Linville ; Jonas Ridge ; Nantihala ; Alleghanies | ||
| page 102 | [Illustration] A NARROW WATER-WAY
"At the margin of the stream the slope of the opposite mountains begins, which, with impending forests on their precipitous fronts, lift themselves to dizzy altitudes." Nantihala |
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| page 103 | "A fascinating solitariness pervades the picture; and this was enhanced, when we saw it, by a group of three deer, a buck and two does." | ||
| page 104 | "One would conceive that other mills than the gods' grind slowly." Stecoah mountains ; Nantihalah [Nantahala] ; Yellow Creek ; Cheowah creek ; Long Creek ; Junaluska farm ; Robbinsville | ||
| page 105 | "You enter its ford, and, turning in the saddles, take a parting look at the valley of the Noon-Day Sun." Stecoah highway ford ; Little Tennesse ; Nantihalah [Nantahala] | ||
| PAGE 106 | [Blank page] | ||