|
The Heart of the Alleghenies |
|
Chapter 9- Beyond Iron Ways |
| |
|
BEYOND IRON WAYS
Stage Riding -- The Driver's Story -- Waynesville -- Court Week --
Prescriptions for Spirit. Frument. -- Before the Bar -- An Out-Door Jury
Room -- White Sulphur Springs -- A Night's Entertainment -- The Haunted
Cabin -- A Panther Hunt --The Phantom Millers -- Light on the Mysteries
-- Micadale -- Recollections -- Soco Falls -- Webster -- An Artist's
Trials -- Above the Tuckasege [Tuckaseege] Cataract -- Hamburg -- A
Cordial Invitation -- Cashier's Valley Whiteside -- A Coffee Toper --
Horse cove -- Golden Sands -- Ravenel's Magnificent Site -- Hints for
the Mounted Tourist -- The Macon Highlands -- A Demon of the Abyss - A
Region of Cascades and Cataracts -- Through Rabun Gap -- Clayton,
Georgia -- The Falls of Tallulah -- An Iron Way |
| |
page 279 |
"Mainly the mountaineers beside the
ancient stage-road, up the Blue Ridge from McDowell county into
Buncombe, may listen for the old-time winding of the driver's bugle the
rumbling of strong-sparked wheels, and the rattling of
trace-chains." |
 |
| |
page 280 |
"The wind is rushing after us, and the
clouds are flying after us, and the moon is plunging after us, and the
whole wild night is in pursuit of us." Pigeon River ;
Waynesville |
 |
| |
page 281 |
"It is necessary in order to make up for
the delay incurred in the long, wearisome accents, and the horses, in
contradiction to first principles, appear to stand up well under
it." Big Pigeon ; Waynesville |
 |
| |
page 282 |
"If you are fortunate enough to ride with
the same good-natured driver whom we had, and he is in mellow mood, you
may be interested for an hour by a story which is he is fond of
telling." Asheville |
 |
| |
page 283 |
"It was imperative for him to be at
Henry's that night, both on account of his express duties and his
passengers, who would freeze before morning." Asheville |
 |
| |
page 284 |
"On the summit of a plateau-like expanse,
in the center of the scene, is a picturesque village." Dr
Samuel Love |
 |
| |
page 285 |
"The head-center for daily congregation
seems to be the post-office." Waynesville ; Old Bald ;
Balsams |
 |
| |
page 286 |
"The grading, bridges, and embankments
for the railroad are all completed, and even before many months
Waynesville will have the cars within its corporate
boundaries." Mad Anthony Wayne ; Waynesville |
 |
| |
page 287 |
"The active out-door exercise enjoyed in
following the court in his rounds tends to make the village lawyer a
good-natured fellow...he ought certainly to be a healthy, contented
specimen of humanity." Waynesville |
 |
| |
page 288 |
"They [Indians] were not arrayed in the
picturesque pomp of the savage, but in the garb of civilization...there
are very few of the full-blooded stock in the reservation."
Cherokee |
 |
|
page 289 |
"I witnessed one murder case disposed of
in two days, when, anywhere in the North, the same trial would have
occupied as many weeks." |
 |
| |
page 290 |
"This sounded queer to a stranger; court
adjourning to give way for a political speech...it was fit that the
people should be prepared to cast their ballots with
discretion." General Clingman ; White Sulphur Spring Hotel |
 |
| |
page 291 |
"A grand forest, principally of oaks,
covers about eight acres of level ground, through which, with green
sward on either hand, winds the road toward the hotel."
Richland creek ; Mount Maria ; Major WW Springfield ; Mount Serbal |
 |
| |
page 292 |
"Of all country roads for quiet rambles
or delightful horseback rides, there are none in the mountains to excel
the one up Richland creek." Richland Creek ; White Sulphur
Spring ; Old Bald |
 |
| |
page 293 |
[Illustration] THE MACON HIGHLANDS |
|
| |
page 294 |
[blank] |
|
| |
page 295 |
"Under a gigantic poplar two large white
wagons were visible, and between them was the fire." |
 |
| |
page 296 |
"We did not notice the increasing
coldness of the wind, and were only awakened to a sense of our dangerous
position, when snow began to fall." |
 |
| |
page 297 |
"On the other side a rocky bluff, crowned
with snow and clad in evergreen vines, loomed up like the crumbling wall
of some ancient castle, with its summit lost in the veil of the falling
snow." |
 |
| |
page 298 |
"In the shadow of the precipice, most
gloomy it appeared, with its snow-burdened roof...and doorless entrance
opening into a black interior." |
 |
| |
page 299 |
"...instead of what I heard from him
awakening my fears and strengthening me to travel 'on, it aroused my
curiosity to remain and see upon what his superstition was based." |
 |
| |
page 300 |
"Every superstitious old woman told some
terrible tale about it, until it had become known throughout the country
as the haunted cabin." |
 |
| |
page 301 |
"Terrible, blood-curdling cries, like
those from a woman or child in distress, came from the end of the room
opposite the chimney." |
 |
| |
page 302 |
"Black objects assumed regular outlines,
became distinct, regained their natural shapes, and everything around me
was revealed." |
 |
| |
page 303 |
"With this slaughter all reasonable fears
of the cabin's being haunted vanished." Santeetlah ; Unaka ;
Cheowah |
 |
| |
page 304 |
"It was a mill which even at this date
would, if new, have been suited to a more open country." |
 |
| |
page 305 |
"This race had long since disappeared,
worn away by time and water." |
 |
| |
page 306 |
"Superstitious people than began to
whisper that a spell was on the place." Deer mountain |
 |
| |
page 307 |
"Black clouds, heavy with moisture, were
filling and piling deep the entire face of the sky between these
circling mountains." |
 |
| |
page 308 |
"As fortune would have it I was just in
time to be drafted into the Confederate army. I had only a day to
spare to go to my house and return." |
 |
| |
page 309 |
"By a train of petty circumstances
connected with this man's refusal to run the mill, together with the
superstitious ideas of the people, all the mountaineers began to take
their grain to the lower 'corn-cracker.'" |
 |
| |
page 310 |
"It was not our language these shadows
conversed in; it was a strange tongue, but I recognized it. It was
the dialect of the Cherokees!" Cherokee |
 |
| |
page 311 |
"A settlement of half civilized
Cherokees...by managing to play the role of spectres, secured a good
mill, rental free, for two or three years." Cherokee |
 |
| |
page 312 |
"We had been engaged with the stories
that the rising of the wind had passed unnoticed, and suddenly a few
rain drops fell upon us and the fire." Richland creek ; Great
Divide ; Old Bald |
 |
| |
page 313 |
"The road along the creek's bank, upward
from the place of nightly encampments, possesses all the charms of a
woodland way." WF Gleason |
 |
| |
page 314 |
"Of the gorgeous sun-rises over Lickstone...of
the full-moon ascents above the night-darkened rim..." Old
Bald ; Balsams ; Lickstone ; Wild Cat ; Wolf's Pen ; Pinnacle |
 |
| |
page 315 |
"The headwaters of the Soco rise in a
dark wilderness ... [and]unite their foaming waters by first leaping over a
series of rocky ledges, arranged like a stairway." Lickstone
; Soco Falls |
 |
| |
page 316 |
[Illustration] THE JUNALUSKAS |
 |
| |
page 317 |
"With enlarged ideas on farming, they are
bringing the naturally rich soil into a state of perfection for grain
and grazing." Junaluskas ; Mount Serbal ; Dr Robert Welch ;
Webster |
 |
| |
page 318 |
"The water of this stream in order to
empty into the larger stream, flings itself over a perpendicular cliff,
falling through space with loud roar and white veil-like
form." Shoal Creek ; Cashier's Valley ; Grassy Creek ; East
La Porte |
 |
| |
page 319 |
"This manner of the mountaineers of
inviting strangers to visit them is illustrative of their warm-hearted
natures." WN Heddin |
 |
| |
page 320 |
"The sand in the beds of some of the
smooth-flowing rivulets down the sultry southern slope of the Blue
Ridge..." |
 |
| |
page 321 |
"The sun had hidden himself behind the
western ranges, but daylight still pervaded the landscape..."
Cashier's Valley ; Governor Hampton |
 |
| |
page 322 |
"In the dark we passed unseen...pushing
along on our dejected and dispirited steeds, fording the cold...we at
length drew rein before the almost imperceptible outlines.." Blue
Ridge ; Chatooga |
 |
| |
page 323 |
"Several children, facsimiles of their
sire, and a woman...there was nothing inviting in this picture.." |
 |
| |
page 324 |
"For days his short figure, with a
steam-wreathing coffee-cup in hand, was before my eyes...'I drink this
for stimulation.'" Black Rock ; Little Dutch Creek |
 |
| |
page 325 |
"But worst of all, how disagreeable must
a man's sensations be, over the knowledge of the sufferings of the
animal under him." Black Rock ; Highlands |
 |
| |
page 326 |
"The streams that drain it are of the
color of topaz, except where sleepless mills have dammed the waters...a
startled muskrat betrays by a silvery wake his flight to a sequestered
home among the roots..." Whiteside ; Satoola ; Fodderstack ;
Black Rock ; Short-off |
 |
| |
page 327 |
"The farming lands surrounding the
village are being settled principally by northern families. A
railroad at no distant day will penetrate this plateau." |
 |
| |
page 328 |
"The name was given, not for the reason
of the fall being dry, but because of the practicability of a man
walking dry-shod between the falling sheet of water and the cliff over
which it plunges." Dry Fall of the Cullasaja ; Mount Yonah |
 |
| |
page 329 |
[Illustration] [DRY FALL OF THE CULLASAJA] |
 |
| |
page 330 |
"On this descent a series of picturesque
rapids and cascades enlivens the way...all difficulties encountered are
well repaid by the sight from the bottom of the caņon."
Sugar Fork falls |
 |
| |
page 331 |
"The walls are gigantic cliffs of dark
granite...it flows in sullen majesty, through a deep and romantic
glen..." Tallulah ; Nacoochee |
 |
| |
page 332 |
[Blank page] |
|