8


THIS LAND IS POSTED

  At the opening of the twentieth-century the great expanse of the mountains of western North Carolina began to be partitioned in a manner that would increase the fragmentation of space in the mountains in the coming years. Boundaries were established and signage began to appear on trees and fence-posts declaring the territory as "private" or "posted: no hunting" or "no fishing" or, even more mandatory, "No trespassing, under penalty of law." The giant park that many had called their own to roam, hunt, and fish, and explore, began to shrink from the acquisitive process of ownership, and through a more profound change in life-style. Even the strong individualism suggested by John C. Campbell in his The Southern Highlander and His Homeland, did not foresee the extreme privacy issues that began to show themselves at the beginning of the century. As space became more and more private, the need for some preservation of public open space became imperative and discussions began that eventually resulted in the development of a large public park network in the western North Carolina region. The purchase by the federal government of large parcels of land and the eventual negotiation for the development of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park preserved vast mountain tracts that today provide ample space for recreation, exploration of natural resources, and uninterrupted vistas of those "wave after wave" of undulating blue mountains.

During this period of intense focus on the preservation of the natural beauty of the mountains, many authors picked up the threads of environmental writing that were present in much of the earlier writing, but that did not have as it's intent, the preservation of the land.

In the forward to Margaret Brown's The Wild East (2000), John David Smith, the series editor, identifies a commonly held trait of southerners, as well as mountain dwellers. He says, "Their identification with place, their deep ties to the land, lay at the core of southerners' identity. 'The Southerner,' W.J. Cash wrote, 'was primarily a direct product of the soil." Underscoring the importance and power of the South's physical world, he noted that it presented "a sort of cosmic conspiracy against reality in favor of romance.'" Brown's book which she describes as a "biography of the Great Smoky Mountains," is one of a genre of writing that expands the literary into the realm of environmental history.  Whether it is the early naturalist work of Walter Ashe, or Donald Peattie, or the later environmentalism of Dan Pierce, or Bill Bryson's eco-tourism, or Wendell Berry, whose consummate literary skill is combined with a deeply felt environmentalism,  --- mountains in all their facets fill the writer's pages.

Peattie's Blue Ridge mountains that form a "wrinkle, like a smile that began to crease the face of the continent ..." held an enormous attraction for the early naturalists. In the nineteenth-century the naturalists came in  droves. Peter Kalm, Constantine Samuel Rafinesque-Schmaltz, Andre Michaux, John Lyon, Lars Yungstroem, John Fraser, and many others recorded their journeys to the southern Appalachians, as well as their reflections on mountains, generally.  But, this early group of naturalists was a somewhat different breed than those  who came in the twentieth century. The early group, like the "exploiters" were highly competitive, and almost aggressive in their exploration.  This early group was interested in what the region would give them, either in fame through discovery of new plants and animals, or the monetary reward of the discovery of medicinals or botanical specimen for luxury gardens or national arboretums. The later naturalists make a point of leaving the mountains as they are. Taking plants from national parks, destroying natural habitats, killing endangered species, building without regard to terrain, open-pit mining, excessive logging, and other environmentally unsound practices,  became issues of concern to these naturalist writers.

The urban-dweller's adventure in the wilds of the mountains is also all too well-known in the literature of this era. In Bill Bryson's A Walk In the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail (1999), the terror of the mountain forests, and the unpredictable encounter with local mountaineers titillate the reader's every fantasy associated with the high, dark unknown of the Appalachian wilderness. The reverence of place is partially recovered by Bryson uneasy observations at the book's end, as he says, "'...I gained a profound respect for wilderness and nature and the benign dark power of woods. I understand now, in a way I never did before, the colossal scale of the world.  ... Best of all, these days when I see a mountain, I look at it slowly and appraisingly, with a narrow, confident gaze and eyes of chipped granite.'"  



1930's
Peattie

DONALD PEATTIE


Melrose Falls, R.H. Scadin Collecction, UNCA

NATURAL HISTORY OF PEARSON'S FALLS

Natural History of Pearson's Falls
Beginnings:
"Many millions of years ago a wrinkle, like a smile began to crease the face of the continent that was to be called America, and the Blue Ridge was raised from the sea and the plains. ....

Today, in the heart of those old mountains, you may find your heritage of beauty and wonder, the finished product of millions of years of life. As in a cathedral nave where one may admire the art of centuries, so one goes reverently up the glen called Pearson's Falls, where scenes from the story of life on earth are painted upon the carven walls and green windows. There, upon the brow of that tiny cavern, where a fine spray forever falls, hangs the weird, unmodern green of algae, first of the plants to enrobe the earth. Here are forests of mosses no higher than your thumb but higher far in evolution than the algae. Here the walking-fern steps daintily across the rocks, root to tip and tip to root, recalling the days of the giant tree-ferns when lizards like elephants sloshed and hissed across the continent, and where now from a flowering dogwood tree a redbird starts with his magical cry. The great hemlocks sigh, the brook rushes garroulously, and then, above all other sounds, you hear the light thunder of the falls.

Here, for thousands of years, the white sprite, the fall, has been in being, delicious, setting in motion a perpetual breeze which makes the maidenhair and the foam-flower to tremble ceaselessly upon their stalks, keeping a fleck of brown foam forever swirling about the little pools below."

Peattie, Donald Culross. A Natural History of Pearson's Falls and Some of Its Human Associations. Tryon, N.C.: Printed by and for the Garden Club, [193-?] 1898-1964 

   
 

 

 
Dykeman

Jerome Dykeman

   
   
 
 

George Masa

   
 
 

George Prosser

This poem comes from a  small collection of poetry written by George Holcomb Prosser, a native of Ohio who moved to Asheville in 1923. Prosser eventually found work at the  American Enka Corporation, a rayon processing plant located in Candler, NC. The poems, referred to as "doggerel" by Prosser, tell of his work, his friendships, the family life-style during the Depression, camping, and other recreations enjoyed by the family. The poems are a graphic reflection of the time and the culture in which Prosser and his family lived. Written in a style that is reminiscent of Edgar Guest, they reflect one man's struggle with tough economic times, his diversions in nature, and they portray the rural and urban cultural tug of war familiar to many who have been transitioned into other cultures. This poem describes the local sport of fishing that many men in western North Carolina enjoyed. The "posting" of what used to be "public" streams sometimes created tensions in local communities that tested shifts of culture and one's understanding of the "local" culture -- even by "locals.".

George Holcomb Prosser Collection, Special Collections, UNCA

1930's
Posser

TENNESSEE CREEK   

 

Oh, we had gone to Wolf Creek
And stopped at Owen's Farm

To fish or look at mountains
And do no bit of harm

 

Old Bob and Bill and Shorty too
And Nick, he was the leader,

That guided us and did it well
As you will find my reader.

 

I did not go, but stayed behind

To see about a dog
But I was there in spirit, boys

Crossed each and every log.

 

A neighbor drove us to the top
Of the Blue Laurel Section

Prom there we started out on foot
In Tennessee Creek direction.

 

We knew the stream was posted
Stikeleather made them large,

But we knew ways and means to beat
A simple trespass charge.

 

We traveled single file along
The narrow mountain trail

And after darkness gathered round
Our lantern had to fail.

 

With flashlight dim and a few stars,
We crept through woodsy mist

Round rocks thru slasn and over logs
A rod clutched in our fist

 

Oh, it was down hill all the way
And Nick gained fifty feet

When he stepped on a sloping rock
And slid down on his seat.

 

He wasn't hurt that we could see
His trousers sure looked weak

There was a scratch upon his thigh
And red streaks on his cheek

 

We finally heard the stream below
We'd come five miles you see

To camp and fish upon this jewel
Of highland mystery.

 

Old Bob got perched upon a rock

To fish out in the dark
Down in a hole he could not see
As happy as a lark.

Well, Hick, he kept the fire bright
And Shorty got the wood
He slid it down the sharp incline
And did the best he could.

To keep from falling in on us
I tell you it was steep.
While Bill boiled coffee for the group
Before we tried to sleep

We had no blankets nor a place
To stretch out to retire
And every time we nodded off
We'd slip into the fire.

The night was cold, we did not sleep

And wood got hard to find
When daylight came, we stirred about

To see where we had climbed.

 

There was a trail the watchman took
To guard the precious stream

And where the going was too steep
A home- made ladder leaned.

 

We knew he soon would be along

Upon his morning stroll
So we must fish and be away

Before he  touched our goal.

 

We stepped into the clear cold stream
Oh boy, the trout were fun

And every time we flicked the fly
Two fishes rose as one.

 

We caught a flour sack full too soon

And we were loath to quit
But old Bob said, "Now come on boys
We still have time to feit".


We started up, Bill turned to Nick
"How much if we submit"?
We can get off, its worth the price
Let's give that stream a fit.

 

 

Old Bob went on and took the fish
We dropped into the stream

To fish two pools and catch six trout
Then saw a gun barrel gleam.

 

He shoved it in our face and cried

"Come out of there you birds
This land is posted, you are caught."

In many awful words.

 

We reeled our lines in, stowed our gear

And slowly climbed the wall

The shot-gun watched us close to see
We didn't try to stall.

 

We walked ahead as prisoners should

With two barrels at our back

But stopped to argue and explain

And to try some other tacks.

 

We said that we were Enka boys

And must have gotten mixed

In darkness took wrong trails so as

To get in such a fix.

 

Nick asked him meekly what he'd do  

If he were in our shoes

Submit he said and pay my fine

As other folkes do

 

"That's what we'll do;" the guard relaxed

And then set down his gun

We talked awhile and moved about

And joked as though in fun.

 

The warden stepped to cut a twig

Of blackgum for his snuff

Bill eased beside the gun and stood

At ready, 'twas no bluff.

"Oh we'll submit. you have our names
But we won't go  to  Gleason".
We told him flat and he agreed,
Without a gun 'twas reason.

We'll send receipts, you will be cleared
We're glad  you saw the light"
To Maxeys,  he was right
Then turned around and took the trail

I knew this Justice of the Peace
An old time friend was he
And when we stopped him hoeing corn
It pleased him we could see.

We told him of our mission there

Of how the fish had struck
Of Jim Stikeleather and his guard

Of work and other truck.

 

"Well boys"? said he, "its past noon time

What say we get it over,
Set on that fence and I'll take charge

The court please come to order."

 

He stood before us in the road

His well worn hat in hand
As we plead guilty to trespass

On old Stikeleather's land.

 

He told us of the law and said

That it must be obeyed
But from the twinkle in his eye

We knew folks sometimes strayed.

 

As he talked on his store teeth slipped,

He nearly choked then said,

"This fine helps pay for our kid's school,

One dollar each, Oh Red

 

Tell Mother, we have guests today

And bring my receipt slip

Court is dismissed,

You go .wash up

And I will find a nip."

 

We visited and filled out our hides

With many things to eat,

Then smoked and talked awhile of silk

That's made at Enka neat.

 

We thanked our hosts, and got our gear
Then as we turned to go, •

Our friend said, "Boys take this along

It's homemade stuff you know."

 

"It is a shame," our Shorty said

To post a mountain stream
And tell the folks who live about

"Read that, Stay out I mean.'"

 

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